Climbing Quad Anchor break test with 6mm accessory cord

If we break a quad anchor here on our bolt buster slab, does it count as slack snap or bolt busters? Find out on this episode of How Not to Highline. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to my backyard. Go to hownottohighline.com for the bolting bible and our highline courses. But today we are going to break quad anchors and we're pretty excited because you guys have asked a long time for this and we've been wanting to do it for a while too. So this is our bolt buster concrete slab in our backyard. We have a seven point kind of equalized anchor going to a hydraulic cylinder with a hydraulic pump with a battery going to a dyno going to our brake tests and this allows us to do about 300 samples in this concrete and it's the highest strength concrete money could buy me three months ago when we put it in and Bobby helped us put that in. Are you excited Bobby? So I'm super excited about this test. What we are breaking today is a full quad anchor setup. Full! So we're very curious to see what's going to break first. We have a on the rope side figure eight like you tie into your harness and then on the other side we have a standard old APC and then it is tied off with an MMO multimodal overhand of some sort and why this is so short is because the purpose of a climbing rope is to absorb the fall and we don't want it to absorb all of the pull from our cylinder so we're keeping it really short. We only have two feet of pull. And then we have two black diamond carabiners both of these are rated to 25 kilonewtons in the major access pole. Even though it's a little wide down here this is this is not a realistic situation this is literally the situation. So this is a real life shit. So all right what do you got up here? And then we have two carabiners I'm not sure where this one's from maybe wild country and it's rated to 23 kilonewtons this one's rated from mad rock rated to 24 and then we have a six millimeter tech not tech cord um accessory cord accessory cord okay this is not new neither is the gear you're using so we're actually going to break this straight and in a loop in the slack snap machine to kind of use it as a gauge um because we're not trying to standardize anything it's just um something we would use it's literally something Bobby pulled this off of his rack yep so you trusted it what kind of knot do you have here and why um so this is a I believe it's called a flat overhand is that european death knot uh yeah it's sort of variation of that um so I've used it to join these these two ends um I really don't expect we'll be breaking at at this knot but we'll see yeah I doubt it because you've got two strands you got a lot of weak points here the carabiner should break first and these are uh three eighths inch concrete screws titan hd and strong hangers stainless steel fix hangers so we know these are not going to fail before any of this would and this is kind of our workhorse for bolt busters so it's nice to understand how everything works together in order to simulate this test and know what's going to break we are going to break more throughout this episode on our slack snap machine because it's about to rain and another cool feature is the fact that we film this stuff in slow motion with the galaxy s9 it does the 960 frames per second that's 32 times slower than real life and in order for us to not get uh one hit by it uh we stand behind the catio door and pull the button you want to do the honors yeah are we ready yeah so I don't want to get too close to this look how much at 19.1 kilonewtons oh my god that rope is so flat right now wow um that's digging into our crate those knots look tight I don't want to touch anything so but this just shows like how much rope stretch I mean that's at least that's at least double of what it was when we installed it we basically ran out of throw the amount in the cylinder that gets sucked in so we're just gonna have to reset it and kind of see what we can do okay we reset it we put a soft shackle with the skinniest side in here to keep the bend radius um we didn't want to put something super fat like this inside uh but this is like we know this won't break so that's super good that's super good we're just gonna pull this has already been pulled pretty tight well let's just pull it again that's how these go it broke in the knot uh that was the last place we thought it was gonna break like I thought I was gonna break in the knot but like oh jeez don't ******* touch it oh my god jeez do we keep pulling oh well hey you know what that's cool because that's redundant right if like especially if a rope cut any of those strands like so far so good it's not slipping like another episode that we did uh dyneema slings with clove hitch and girth hitch anchors so it broke at 27 kilonewtons so it was 27 now we're at 12 and we're gonna keep pulling this is fun okay uh so that that officially broke over there and it's wow well let's find out well okay it's doing what it's supposed to do all right so we got up to 22.8 kilonewtons it lowered down to 4.25 uh okay our carabiners look fine we can just reuse those in another test so this is what the retaining uh chord the fourth chord that you leave in there to retain it in case the load does what it did does what it did okay okay and these carabiners are fine um I mean they if the master point only saw 20-ish these only saw probably 10 to 15-ish ooh we could almost redo this and put other dinos on there um and that last thing broke at 15.1 kilonewtons so that's pretty good it's pretty hard to generate that in a climbing scenario without your back being broken and that that's already a catastrophic failure has already happened yeah I'm pretty happy with a quad anchor I was not happy with clove hitch or the girth hitch ones even though they are adjustable and use less material this stuff's pretty awesome um well shall we go uh break some more welcome to my test bed this is slack snap and we are going to break some more quad anchors uh we're basically got the same setup as we did before this is a 20 foot long rectangle with a 20 to 1 pulley system and some BADs big ass dinos what we got here is basically the exact same setup as we have before these are steel carabiners just so we're not compromising more aluminum ones and we're clipping three strands like we did out there maybe the next test we'll do just two and two uh one carabiner on each one to see if that changes anything we're still using our overhand knot to join these so let's break some shit all right what happened what a mess okay it did not break in the knot this time like it did last time huh it's just all all three massive ass failure two there and then one probably the oh these probably weren't pulling evenly i think that's what that first like click was because it broke immediately after yeah usually it doesn't break at the like the bend in the carabiner compared to like the knot yeah so it looks like the the knot cut these two okay and then the third one and we got 32.70 kilonewtons or 7,250 pounds of force hey if you watch every episode please become a patreon if you want to see something broke put it in the comments below your paypal donation and if you want to just get some instant coffee i did start a coffee business with my friends it is high end espresso freeze drive all you have to do is add hot water we do not make money on this channel so we are 100 donation based the highline university is free the bolting bible is free and all these episodes are so please help us out if you want to see us continue break stuff pretty much no company sponsors us this is bobby's gear some of the last tests we just did today with stuff i bought okay this is the same test as 861 but we're pulling on the shelf not of the one that just broke but if you were to clip the shelf of the quad anchor um how strong is it now this knot has already seen a lot of force so it shouldn't slip because it's pretty well set i have a theory it might break here let's find out this was slipping so much so we were wrong and right it did break the rope but it also slipped well it's pretty warm um the carabiner was pulling this way wasn't it pulling both strands um it was clipped into two strands not all four and the two that it was clipped into oh so it yeah it broke at the shelf but this definitely rolled broke at the shelf and you're probably wondering what the freaking kilonewtons are it's 18.000 kilonewtons or 4 000 pounds of force okay this is a quad anchor where two strands are pulled by this carabiner and two strands are pulled by this carabiner we'll find out if pulling all four ropes finally broke not not higher than 32.3 we're still being held in by this here uh these two these strands finally broke this whole side it took uh you know a couple different breaks to get there but the highest force the first force was 32.3 kilonewtons or 7 150 pounds we're going to zero that out this is the same anchor setup as the 863 test except we just put this one leg this bolt broke actually the material broke but uh we're still in two strands uh with that beater and two strands with that beater so we're just going to see if that knot slips or if the whole thing fails right so it broke a couple times um and the highest force we got was 16.95 so that i consider to be redundant because it's pretty hard to generate 16.95 without breaking your back i like quad anchors okay so while bobby's resetting the setup so we can test what the accessory cord breaks at this is six millimeter blue water accessory cord that has an mbs of 8.4 kilonewtons not with knots but that's just like tensile strength they usually put about around a big diverter but once you start adding knots you lose that strength so just as a reference for how strong this material is compared to the quad anchor we're going to test uh basically figure eight to figure eight like that and also a loop using the same knot we've been using and we added a long enough tail on here because if you do use a knot like this as you've seen it slip definitely want long enough tails so let's find out how strong this material is this accessory cord bobby has had for about two years and it's in great like it's in good enough shape to he's been using it until we were basically curious enough and we needed something to break so this is something that's well within the usable lifespan of this rope but it is not new another reason we're going to break test this all right broken the knot not starts to come undone this side is still attached figure eights just don't stay very dressed because you're pulling on one strand but we got 6.0 kilonewtons which is pretty good 1.3 if the mbs is 8.4 well they don't call them european death nuts for nothing whoa the whole rope is so warm we did get 9.95 however that's not i mean it is higher than our last yeah it was in a loop which it is higher than our last test which was a straight pull but like i was expecting like double yeah right uh we got 2,200 pounds of force the cord didn't fail the knot did you want to try another knot let's try another one what fishermen's yeah all right double yep uh okay so broke broken the knot at 14.05 mbs is 8.4 that's kind of the result i'm expecting in a loop not quite double but definitely close to it what do you think what that would do with um the quad anchors if we tied this knot instead i mean it didn't make it wouldn't make a difference because they were failing first in the limit or not so if you want to see the chart we have it here on slack snap this can be uh found directly on the home page of how not to highline it has all of our tests right now we're at 867 and let's see here if we go up and over you can see where we start in the backyard where we ran out of throw on the rope 27 for the biggest failure 32 32 which is pretty good considering the realistic breaking strength is 6 and 14 for a loop but if you want to study out the charts we have a lot of variables in these uh break tests because we're jumping over a bunch rabbit holes we don't know which rabbit hole we want to dive down into deeper and pretty hard with this much going on in a quad anchor in order to keep the variables to a minimum but if you want to see quad anchors done on other material we are thinking about doing uh dyneema slinks because those are also popular and used often in quad anchors but dyneema doesn't like knots so tell put in the comments of your paypal donation uh but also really like uh let me know what you think is going to happen and how we should break test this stuff we do look at your comments and it helps guide us into how we do our break tests in the future okay it looks like we're done for tonight bobby looks pretty tired instead of you smashing your quad anchors make sure you smash that like button be sure to follow like and subscribe on youtube facebook and instagram because we're posting on all three platforms all the time cheers hey thanks for watching but please don't be an idiot and try to go highlining or climbing or repeat the stunts you see on this channel without going with someone who knows what they're doing these sports come at a very high risk but can be done safely and that's what this channel is devoted to helping you understand what you're looking at when you do get the chance to learn from somebody in person we have tons of resources they're all free and they're all at hownottohighline.com we have the bolting bible which we just finished the 2.02 version 2020 version and it's 133 pages 426 photos 216 links that work it's super thorough if you want to learn bolting and we also have highline university international which is all free courses now and highlining 101 is done how to use a highline that's already rigged and we are doing the anchors and rigging and rope jumping and space nets and more simultaneously with a large group of people now that we've made this open source it's gonna be just like the bolting bible it's gonna have lots of photos lots of links and literally everything on the topic we also have a way to you plugged into the slackline community we have a list of facebook groups on slackademics.com that you can hit control f find your area and find the groups that all coordinate when and where they're going slacklining so you can get connected with our slack family another free book we have on hownottohighline.com is the book of slack there is some slack religious stuff at the beginning because we think that's funny but the rest of it is about flow state and about the history of slacklining it's a thorough deep book it's awesome go check that out and no i don't make money on youtube you need millions of subscribers just to make a living at it i do this for a fun hobby and because i really want the information that i wish i had when i started available for the next generation we believe that safe information should not be withheld for only those who can afford it but it does cost thousands of dollars a year to run this channel boltbusters cost me like ten thousand dollars slack snapping cheap and the websites cost money and yada yada if you're watching all the episodes please become a patreon on patreon.com and if you take the courses please donate twenty dollars if you've gone all the way through and benefited from it and if you read the entire bolting bible learn how to bolt and bolted something without having to go through a learning curve wasting money please donate 20 bucks on paypal we literally only survive off of donations for this channel i did recently start a specialty instant coffee business with my friend it's great for camping it's great for van life it's great for everyday drinking it's really great espresso we freeze dry it all you have to do is add water and you can get our coffee at brewjuno.com and make sure you like us on facebook and follow us on instagram and subscribe to us on youtube because we are posting stuff all the time and don't forget to smash that like button cheers