How NOT 2 Multipitch Climb with Doug Robinson

So we made a how to not trad climb video and in that video we told you at the end of it if you want to see how to multi-pitch to watch the video over and over we still got comments on how to multi-pitch climb so here we are about to multi-pitch climb we're going to cover rope management belaying and swapping leads and I mean how to actually lead climbs not really the focus but just kind of the process of leapfrogging each other all the way up this mountain so we have two teams short team short as us and the tall team everybody has different thoughts processes and ways of explaining things so we're going to kind of cut back and forth between the two teams and hopefully short team wins short team here and at this angle you look extra short this is Doug my new nickname is extra short Doug's I think he's only climbed once or twice and he's going to be joining me today I'll probably I am tied in and he's going to check me did you check me there's a knot and your harness is backed up and it's tightened up you're through both loops on the harness that's a check on your end would you check me I will he's already got one hand not on here so I might there we go okay you're locked why we double check folks I'm going to start and when I get up there I'm going to yell off belay after I'm safe at the anchor tall team here Bobby and my good buddy Mike this is actually my first climb since the accident so we picked something nice and easy I think the hardest move is getting off the ground here five seven maybe the rest of the route might be five six three pitches and we'll kind of show you the whole process so Mike anything to say before you go climbing yeah check me before I start climbing cool so what knots that that's figure eight just a little tuck through to keep it from locking up cool I'm happy with that I'm going to get on belay Mike's going to check me and then he'll start climbing so I'm not trying to make this how to lead video but basically if I fall I'm this way you don't want it like this but this is a bolted route so we're just sport climbing Doug is actively blaming me and I am looking for my next bolt oh I see it oh shoot so Mike just got to the top of the pitch and is off belay making his anchor so I am tied in here I've got my shoes on so I am ready to climb when he is on belay just got to the anchor clip to that I have a quick draw quick draw quick draw quick draw down to Doug Doug I'm off belay so Mike just pulled the rope tight and he asked if I if that was me so I'm going to communicate with him that's me and then he should be putting me on belay pretty quickly and we should hear lots of wind but we should hear him saying so I'm still attached here I used two quick draws to make for the ATC guide or alpine guide here I wanted a single carabiner so I have two points opposing gates here and then that is how you do the guide mode so basically if I pull this up it's going to take two hands you can't pull this down the rope that he's on it pinches itself off right here and what I'm doing is I'm doing looks like a mess but let's say like 30 feet of slack go through here 30 feet of slack come through here that'll be easy enough for me to manage there's nothing for it to really get stuck on so when he leads the next pitch that I can just manage that rope so I'm going to take two hands and belay him up he's already starting so I should get belaying so he got up here safe and sound yeah and this is my solution for having no slings with me but now the rope is pretty much on top so I'm going to have you clip in personally to the anchor then I'll transfer this to my belay loop and you're magically on lead okay so that is I'm one of those people who doesn't keep a pigtail whatever you call it automatically attached to my harness because it might trip or worse so don't get confused so I just hooked it all up right here cool and I can lean back no hands all right now that he's you could always take a bite of the rope and attach it but we're basically going to one hand no I'll definitely belay you with two uh with two hands don't you worry so pretty much we're set up here and whenever somebody leads it's nice especially in this situation that we have something that pulls me up instead of if he were to slip in the next few moves that he doesn't just fly past me and then I'm just loading this this is not meant to be loaded yeah we don't want to load those bolts either so a factor two fall which is the easiest yeah fall twice as far as the rope is in the system that's how you do this is when it happens yeah yeah once you got 30 meters of something stretchy between the two of you it's not so bad so we're going to film um mike having me on the top anchor to um the system that he's going to all right so in this case we're on the green goes really really easily go ahead and um do a redirect into one of the anchors uh yeah that's fine so this is a little bit of a complex topic but I generally do it um so I am falling on this and pulling mike into this as opposed to falling past mike and landing on his harness uh they're definitely it's a complicated discussion there are reasons to do one versus the other but this is what we're going to do today yeah this is my my common commonly I put a piece so I'm not taking the direct fall Doug is officially off belay I took him off of my ATC guide here I'm gonna take this off so it's not dangling and then I took the first quick draw off already and as soon as he says that I'm on belay I can take this off and go because I'm completely ready if I have a backpack which I don't I would already have that on and I just want to be completely ready to go as soon as I'm allowed to when we get up there we'll see how rope management for him is so I'm going to stop here and explain something I take it off the bolt it's pretty simple and I'm going to clip it pretty handy as if I'm going to go next this is kind of where I want it but uh if there's a cam or whatever you take it out then you clip it to yourself take it off the rope depends how comfortable you are what order you do that in but you make sure you take the gear with you follow the route he's already established and then continue to climb with a cell phone in your hand and then because I stopped for a while he doesn't know that I'm climbing again I can just say climbing and then he'll pull the rope up and when you're climbing you just want to make sure you're not stepping in this picking my footholds my next spot get up here this is what it looks like and then you just keep leapfrogging really and that is multi-pitch climbing team tall here and I'd like to point out that we're still at a team short so I made it to the top and I have cloaked myself in here this is my personal feather here I've got a little bit of slack because I'm going to move down on my belay I've got a figure eight here that is perfectly dressed and another figure eight here that I'm going to attach my belay device into and I will show you that when I do it the second belay we're using a different system this time all right so I'm here and I'm finishing my climb how are you doing this I've got you clipped through some draws on the bolts because I didn't bring any runners and then comes back down to my brake device this is a nice system because you get a little pulley effect I can relax here on my anchor and belay you quite handily it's just getting less steep didn't know this rock could get less steep this is a good it's a good drag for first multi-pitch because it's you know the climbing is relatively easy and the road management is relatively easy too and somebody really did a nice job developing this place so it uh is safe for new climbers this place is in any discovery oh there he is that guy in the wild team tall team tall they're incidentally ahead of us all right so um I have set up this APC in guide mode we've got this going to the anchor and then the carabiner for belaying but I have Mike Strand on the top here and if he were to fall or load it it locks this system in so I started managing my rope here I'm just flaking it over my tether and I normally go from um I start here and then start flaking up um less tangles that way I'm sure somebody tell me will tell me I'm doing it exactly the wrong um but this works for me and now I'm going to uh get a little bit lower let's switch all right so I want to show that you don't always need a personal anchor um you just can clove hitch yeah you're directly into the anchor although technically it's a hitch yeah that's true and then I already have my quick draw here back clipping me so there I did that to see if you were paying attention there's a well it worked for your system but when I converted it so now I'm safe-ish and um you just continue to belay the as you were so it's nice to have that setup I might use a greegree in this way when I get up there so we can show all the different methods so I'm getting ready to climb the next pitch so what I need to do once I'm tethered in and safe um is get all the gear I need so I was picking up draws on the way um I'll take the opportunity to organize them now because I ended up putting them all on my right side so I'll kind of spread them out um so I have draws to grab on both sides and then I'm going to ask Mike for any additional draws that he still has uh for the next pitch before I leave I want to make sure I have everything that I'm going to need for this next pitch which is 10 draws I have that and up there I am going to be making an anchor out of the rope and so I will just use the rope and lock the carabiners and oh no team tall is gaining on us is it climbing if you're not using your hands oh wait look whoa 5 13 or do you turn it this way so I'm at the anchor and I'm going to pass it Doug's right there Mike's right there and I can link this pitch with that pitch which means I can get to the next anchor with the rope that I have and that's going to save time and we got to win this race with team tall so Mike just made it up as you can see I like to make myself comfortable I'm on my tether here I'm sitting I'm not putting any weight on my bad ankle and I'm still able to uh control the belay and keep this rope here and out of the way of if we had other parties here or like big loops going down that might get caught and stuck on something I have good control of the rope here so a flaw of this anchor is you pretty much have to um swap leads so if you were belaying somebody up to you and then you were going to leave the tricks to get set up for um to lead again but as it is Mike's going to lead the next pitch and all I have to do is uh take um switch the belay from uh the anchor there uh to me and then uh belay him up it takes more uh breathing than it does technique but you skipped two balls down there yeah you're either bold or you're short-sighted or short of quick draws yeah so what happened short of breath we're the short team apparently I only got to this one before we ran out of rope so how did you fix that um I simply unclipped from the anchor and started climbing it's so we literally were simul climbing you were getting to the anchor I was getting above the last one it's um less safe because suppose I had fallen before you got here I would have pulled you off and you would have gone longer before you'd be below the top bolt we'd all equalize out and stop yeah so we're not gonna die but but if I fell it would act like a teeter-totter and it'd be mostly okay yeah exactly so I went from this bolt to here and when I got here um I just put to these two carabiners yeah and then I was instantly safe-ish and so now he uh Doug's still climbing he's without not really within range of yelling now and so I threw on my grigri directly on my harness and I've been belaying him up here like he did with the ATC I guess I'll belay you up there it's not a lot of things to clip okay just uh don't fall on those fourth class pitch your uh the infamous fourth class your bouldering shoes that you got on yeah right sitting hip relay here this is like an alpine climbing technique really but um it's very handy in the herd you want to have an anchor I don't really need one it's fourth class climbing but I this is the important part I'm going to sit against the top of this wedge and then the rope around my weight this is old school but this is and this is coming up and it's um well I don't know how bold he is but maybe he'll even give me a little fall here and test my belay so I can show you that it's sketchy as it looks I only show you this because it's like alpine climbing technique where there's a lot of fourth class where you're trying to move fast um but as you can see it actually holds weight oh yeah it's a real belay go ahead we'll put a dino on here and see what the BS of Doug is yeah all right the needle's in the BS basically multi-pitch climbing is technically a lot harder than what we just showed because you're actually climbing vertical stuff and you have other parties around you're going to want to do rope management you can do it over your personal anchor around your neck you could flip it back and forth through the anchor basically you're leapfrogging each other or if you have the leader go up uh the same person go up the whole time you just want to make sure your rope is managed to where you're not having rope issues while they're in the middle of a lead um belaying people you have the right devices it'd be pretty easy i didn't think a video this simple was that important until somebody sent me a video of somebody doing this we tested this and it is around eight kilonewtons if that makes you feel any better under perfect conditions however somebody also a different person just sent me the fact that this came out on them yeah for no reason just saying anyways clip like this basically all the force was attached to this wire which is only to keep this thing from falling off your harness and this isn't even guide mode like it doesn't lock anything off you have to clip the i don't know the eye in order for that guide mode to work so understand your blade devices maybe go through the thing and play this way have this thing at the anchor there's all sorts of ways to do it uh hopefully team tall showed you things we didn't show you on team short here but um the idea is you always want to be clipped in and i could take this rope but there is a thing here and i could clip myself in i don't always have to have a personal anchor and uh well doug here is hip and so are his belays i won't tell you to smash that like button because that's super annoying when you binge watch these videos for me to constantly say that to you