Darkest Before Dawn | A Dawn Wall Story

Hhh Arrgh Ugh Aaaarrrgh I don't want to be here, for crying out loud. My name is Sibe Van Hey, and I am a top-level Belgian climber. I'm here because there's a downwall. When Seb asked me to participate, I thought it was a good opportunity. to try something harder that we do not have in Europe. It had been two years since I wanted to come back here. to try something different. It's a particular thing because it's a path. who dreams of many people, and especially me, for a long time. And what's crazy is, and even more so now that we were among the first to swim the length It's that all lengths are hard, and that all lengths are major. There's nothing to throw away, actually. It's truly a dream come true. because it's the biggest challenge in the greatest possible way that could exist. Sibe, he's a Belgian buddy of mine for quite some time. We've done some big climbs together. At one point, we called each other after a major route. He told me, in fact, I'm in the middle of truly thinking about joining you Over there in the U.S. to try the Danube with you. And there, of course, I was super happy because it's really not the same thing to attack a path like that alone. Together, we really have much better chances of pulling it off. I haven't seen any climbing events random here and there in recent years I think I'll keep training. With him, and he's always a really fun guy. to train with. I heard he was doing the long-distance paths in Europe. I knew the two previous experiences here in Yosemite They've followed me a bit. Who am I to go and try the Danube? That's what I had in mind for weeks and even months. But then, I've climbed more difficult routes, also in the Dolomites, in Switzerland And it was good. I was in that great flow. It gave me power and strength. to go for that, to say Hey Sepp, look, if you don't remember, I can meet you on the Danube. And he said, "Yeah, do it." That was a good idea. He was truly surprised. I always wonder if I want to invest as much time in a path that has already been climbed. But I think it's really important for me, as a editor, to try something that has become established before opening to me. It's a great dream for me, but above all, I want to gain more experience in this kind of thing. Secure the top rope. And there, it's the "Move" card. from "Touchstone Climbing" That reassures me. The first time we were on the wall, It was a matter of going as far as the most difficult ones. and check them. We started climbing up, And the first weeks were incredible. It was a discovery. of these wild movements, of these crazy pitches. One can feel that one is open and that we climb through someone who has so much imagination and experience on this type of road. It was much more difficult than we expected. The protection was really poor. We played with packers, pegs. I would have liked to cut these Packers. and balance them with the friends from town. When we were on the wall, We had a call with Tommy. He even told us to be delicate. when one comes across something. I don't know how he does that. I'm sure he's not gentle when I fall. Just put the rope on at the summit It was really difficult. One could not climb freely. We did a bit of climbing to reach the summit. Otherwise, it was truly impossible. To climb freely and to protect. No powder was seen. It's so smooth. The wall is so smooth. There are these little edges that we don't even see. We don't think it's possible. to use them. When you talk to non-climbers, They say it's a smooth wall. You climb smooth walls. Yes, each wall is smooth. There are always holes. But this thing is really smooth. As my girlfriend says, It's as smooth as a cheek. It's huge. There are so many movements to remember. It's like a crazy puzzle. At first, the objective was To go to shelter, go to the summit, See if it's something for us. I've seen many brands. It's a bit against our climbing style. but we put a lot of marks because of the climate It's like a big puzzle. It's incredible. We must take each tool to our advantage With the little information I have, I think they have a good chance. They go through the process. as I did. They understand that it's hard. but if you play for a long time, It's beginning to come together. They are phenomenal air conditioners. I'm completely obsessed with all of this. I enjoy being a spectator. With Adam, I was telling myself It would have taken a year. It's a little slap in the face. It's difficult. but I think it's a part of progress My mistake was flying too high work in Belgium. In February, we were going to make a push. and we would be ready. Honestly, we weren't ready. We were also really tired. Being here, climbing every three days and try the roads again and again. So, of course, Sepp has decided to take a rest week. by the end of February and go there in March without me, what I understand Completely. He made a very good push. and we have communicated, But for me, it's really hard. I realized that I wanted Share this type of project with someone. If it is a good partnership and that you are truly on this great adventure With someone, this friendship is more important the ascent itself. If you focus on that, the climb will probably Arrive. After a month of work In Belgium, I have returned with the fact that Sepp had already done an enormous elevator. Time It was really tough. I don't know, I felt that pressure to go make a push, but I knew that it wasn't ideal. This pressure from the window, and not this obsession I have Normally. And for that, I don't know, it was plus something heavy, heavy on my shoulders, leaning on me instead of this health pressure, this health stress who gives you energy. Of course, I was alone, but I also received a lot of support. My girlfriend Maria, but also other friends who are Here, those who came to support me, support me. It was really nice. So, I tried this for three days. I tried a push-up and I actually was Trapped in the window, so stupid. I came down to the ground And then I felt completely down. What many people don't know about me is that I have big highs and big lows and I have a lot of doubts about myself I felt ashamed. I was ashamed. Not for not being able to send certain pitches, but to lack the mental strength to fight, to speak positively To be positive. And I was blaming myself, but then you get into this negative spiral and Really hard on yourself. No, no, I need to stay positive. It's a very slow process. I think I wasn't ready for this. People don't realize how unaccustomed I am projecting. In the last decade, I've been doing a lot of expeditions. You don't project where You travel over glaciers for a long time, Take a boat. It's not about the athleticism. performance of climbing. It's about the whole adventure This is the first time I'm really doing something. That's too long, and I'm very impatient. and hard on myself as well. We've been projecting a lot. We've always been trying the moves. It's really hard to get into this flow of ascent. But then in the last weeks when I tried to send separate pitches, It's just so beautiful when Everything comes together. When you work a route for a long time and then suddenly you can link sequences. You feel your feet, the tiny footholds that were Really hard, and you didn't trust before. They become really comfortable. Suddenly you're very close to the wall. The crimps feel good. So when I started trying to Send pitches and trying to send attempts, It was just really nice. natural flow that I could enter in and that's truly beautiful. Definitely With this kind of climbing, which is so technical. Of course You have to fight, and sometimes you get Pumped, but it's not like a steep sport. climb or something. It's more of a resistance in the toes, in the feet and also mentally. As long as you believe in the fact that you're sticking to the wall and that your feet hold, your fingers hold, you can Do it. This is really special. about this kind of climbing. You're not going to drop very quickly from being pumped Or something. You're going to fall because you make a little mistake. Last day here on the downhill and I have a lot Mixed feelings. I'm a little disappointed. At the same time, I'm very Happy that I tried it because it's another really big the process I'm going through I don't have much experience in projecting. hard routes, so it's really a huge steps I've taken in my climbing career to try to show patience being kind to myself and seeing the positive side and try to see All the progression in the smallest things. The other day I was like Wow, the moves are going so well right now. I should do a push. It's going. Really good, but of course the season is over. and honestly, I'm mentally Really tired. My ability to bounce back after Disappointment is really bad right now. I don't have much mental strength. for a push. It goes with Ups and downs. It's crazy. I have so many emotions I'm going to go back home and I'm going to be Really glad to no longer be here. I'm pretty sure. I'm going to forget it for a while, completely, and then I'm going to think about it again and I'll probably think about it a month or two. Should I go? Maybe it was Too hard. Maybe it was too difficult. And then there's going to be some other success moments that restore my confidence again and before I know it, I'll be here in this border ledge again. That's mainly what I think is going to happen. I said Before that, I'm really someone who doubts a lot, so I can promise you that I will doubt This decision a lot. Thank you for watching. See you next time.