Reparing the Vector Monitor in a 1979 Atari Asteroids Arcade Game

Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's Classic Video Games back with another cool arcade repair video for you today. If you've been following along with the journey so far, we've been working on this Asteroids that we saved from an operator who was cruelly parting it out and using the parts in other games and things like that. We thought that's just horrible, so he offered to sell it to us and we bought it and we've been fixing it up. So the first thing that we did in our first video was the power supplies were missing. So we replaced those, put those all back in. And then in our second video, the game board wasn't working. So we messed around with several game boards and got one working. And then our next video is the one that you're watching right now. And in this one, what we're going to do is fix the monitor because the game board that we have in it does work, but the monitor doesn't do anything. There's a slight chance that the monitor's fine and that the game board itself is the problem, but I think at least the monitor is not working. So it could be the monitor's not working and the game board's still not working right. But the game board does boot up and we get no picture on the monitor. So I'm going to show you how to service your Asteroids Wells Garner or Electrohome black and white vector monitor, hopefully. So we'll work through it a little bit. So if you've got a Battlezone or you've got a Asteroids or an Asteroids Deluxe or something like that, Lunar Lander, these all have the same type of monitor in them. It was the very first black and white vector games. So I will show you the different parts and we'll see if we can fix it up. So looking in the back of the game, and it's different in each game, but this is a Wells Garner 19V2000. You may have an Electrohome Geo. There's a couple versions of it. Some of them have a board here in the middle with a bunch of capacitors on it and stuff. This Wells Garner version though, it just has two parts. It has the high voltage unit here on the left, and it has the deflection board here on the right. So no matter which version of this you have, and if it's the 15 inch or the 19 inch, it'll basically have the same kind of setup. You may have an extra board here in the middle and there may be some differences on your deflection board and your high voltage cage, but they're all kind of similar. So the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to take this high voltage cage out of here and let's look in it and see what's going on with it. Okay, so we pulled the high voltage unit out. The screws were just hand tightened, which means they've already been messing with it people, but I knew that because the cage is missing. So there's a cage that goes over this that we do not have. Excuse me. So looking in it, it looks like it's still got the original capacitors that have never been changed. So this is a completely unhacked high voltage unit. Nothing's been messed with yet. So we're going to go through and check all the diodes. We're going to check this transistor here to see if it tests good. We're going to check this transistor here to see if it tests good. I don't see anything obviously wrong with the flyback. They're usually pretty robust. So we're going to change the electrolytic capacitors. We're going to test all the diodes and the transistors and then we're going to clean up this diode here, the high voltage diode. So the first thing I'm going to do is just unsolder each one of these caps one at a time and replace it with a brand new one. So we've got one, two, three, four. We've only got four there that we have to do. This is also a capacitor, but we're not going to worry about that one. This one, this one, that one, and that one. So let me swap those real quick and I'll come back. Okay so I replaced the capacitors and now the other major thing in these is the high voltage diode. So there is a, coming off the flyback, there is this little socket and if you look really close, I don't even know if you can see it, but down inside of there, I imagine this was probably dielectric grease when they first did it. But if you, it's just turned into like gum basically. It's like glue almost. And it's on both sides. So you've got to clean that up. This is the actual diode. You put it where the line, see how there's a line on one end? You put it where the line is toward the tube. So towards the flyback is the part that doesn't have the line, the part that has the line is towards the tube. And basically it's so that power goes one way. It's a high voltage diode so you can't really test it with a multimeter. You can do it if you use like a 9 volt battery or something but meh. On the end of these they have a little wire that's been cut short. See that? And so that little wire goes up inside this socket and touches onto that spring that's in there. So basically the metal in here needs to touch the metal on here. So I'm going to clean all this up as good as I can. I'm going to put a little bit of dielectric grease on the end and then stick it back in there. And if you have a problem with that you will get no picture at all because the high voltage isn't working. So I tested the two, the transistor on the side, the transistor on the other side. They were fine. And I reflowed the connector, where the 6 pin connector, well the 8 pin connector. And then also checked all the diodes. All of them are fine except for that high voltage diode which you can't check. So we're going to clean it up, get that connection as good as possible, and we'll see what we end up with. Alright so I popped the little connector that goes to the tube out. And you can see how it's made. I'm trying to clean it up. So this is the boot that slides over it. And at the end of the wire there is a little metal cup that's soldered to the wire. And then inside that cup is this little spring. And so the spring in there touches the little piece of metal at the end of the high voltage diode. And so it's all just kind of a press fit. But it works good like that. And this diode in this one at least is a Vero H1509 is what that says. H1509 and then it says 8030 underneath it. This is the right one for it but you can get, they make a whole bunch of different ones that are slightly different than that one or you know whatever. And they work too. So you can't just put any of them in there but there's several that will work. Because the actual one is getting a little harder to find now. It's all new old stock stuff I believe. They don't make them new anymore. But there's a bunch of them floating around. So I'll clean that up. I'm cleaning up the other side too and then we'll press fit it all back in there and put it back in and see if she'll do anything. Okay so it cleaned up. Went back in just how it's supposed to be. You can see that it actually is able to move when it's in there so that you can move the anode cup around. I still need that little cage that goes over the top. That's called an RFI filter. And if you don't have that what will happen is sometimes, maybe not always, but sometimes you'll get a little bit of movement on the screen. Just interference. So that's on there for a purpose. So I looked in the back. I don't have one so I might have to order one of those. But that's the only thing it needs. But for testing purposes at least we can go ahead and put it back in the machine and then we'll pull out the deflection board. All right so we've pulled the deflection board out of the cabinet and I've got my meter here. Got my meter here. And so the first thing we're going to do is check the fuses. And so when you check a fuse too, by the way, doing it like this. I'm doing this all one-handed. Doing it like this is not necessarily the best way to do it. You kind of want to test it like on the actual holder. Because by doing that you're making sure that the fuse is making good contact with the holder. So you know a fuse should have continuity from this side to this side. And if you're touching right on the fuse that may be fine but this holder may be all screwed up. You know so it may have continuity from here to here but not from here to there. Or more importantly from there to there. So if you can check it like check the holder not the actual fuse. So if you check the holder and I'm doing this with one hand so it's a little hard to do. Okay see how that says I've got my meter on continuity. The little horseshoe setting means ohms. OL open line. So it's not connected. So see this little staple here. I'll show you that's connected obviously right. You're putting on the same piece of metal. I don't know if I can get it to do it. You can see it goes down to zero or something near zero because it's connected. Okay so the next one also open. So this fuse up here is blown as well. So this fuse is blown and this fuse is blown. No problem. No problem. Come over to here. This is actually I think the anyway this is where the power comes in. I don't like how why is that on? I shouldn't have that on. That fuse is good. My meter is not completely calibrated perfectly so 0.02 is about as good as it gets. Yet another blown fuse. That's a good one. That one's blown. Okay so I got three blown fuses. This poor thing has had a rough life people. So this fuse is blown. That fuse is no-brainer. So it says F102. Let me see what this was. They had an one amp 250 volt. So that was a one amp. I don't know if it should be or not. And then we got both of these. You kind of got to be careful when you're pulling these out that you don't break the glass and cut yourself up. Okay so F600 they had a... you kidding me? They had a 0.250 fuse in it. So that's like one fourth of an amp. There is no way that's the right fuse. And this one was a quarter amp. Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe those are the right fuses. So that's quarter amp and that's quarter amp. I'm going to look it up though. That seems awful. Awful low to me people. I don't see anything else obviously screwed up on it. And then on the back it hasn't had much work. So you can tell you know where the work is basically by the where it's been re-soldered. So this has been re-soldered. These two and maybe those two. So those correspond with these two big resistors here. All right and then this is one of the early versions of the board. It has these big resistors up at the top and if you look at the back they are not connected together. So there was a they sent out a memo at some point saying to just put big jumpers of wire to connect this side of the resistor to that side of the resistor. Because they would run real hot and burn up. So these should be a 3.9 ohm. Let's see if that's what we got. 3.9 ohm. I'm getting better at doing this. Like I need to learn how to use chopsticks and then I'll be really good in these videos without a tripod. 3.9 ohm. Okay so that one's still good. And 3.9 ohm. That one's still good. Okay so the resistors are still on. Okay so this looks like a job for the schematics. So I'm gonna pull up the schematics and we'll figure out what these two fuses did and what F102 did. All right so pulled up the schematics and F102 is a one amp. So that was the right size fuse and it's right next to D100. And that comes off of the deflection board and goes up to a connector. It's labeled as 38 volts. And then the 38 volts. Oh went too far. The 38 volts runs down here and comes in on the high voltage board that we just did. Runs into this little choke or whatever that is. And then goes into this cap and there's a resistor here. I just did all this area and I didn't see anything wrong with any of that. So unless it's the wrong, unless the high voltage unit is different or something. But I don't know. I think this diode here is suspect because it's right next to the fuse that blew up. And then when you go back, backwards, the line comes over here and runs off of these diodes. Usually if one of these blows though it'll blow one of these two fuses. But we'll look at all that. We'll look at diodes and capacitors and all that stuff. Okay and then the F600 and F700. Well F600 is right here. That's a 2 amp. And it's on the, these are the, nope I got it wrong. These are the transistors that are mounted on the heat sink on the side of the chassis. We still have to look at those. And then F700 is the fuse 2 amp that goes to the other two transistors on the chassis. So those transistors are known for going bad. And if they go bad they blow the fuse. But they've got a .25 amp fuse in it. And it's supposed to have a 2 amp fuse. So the way a fuse works is a little bit of power can run through it. But once more than 2 amps runs through it, it burns up. Well these are burned up because if anything runs through a .25 it's going to burn it up. That's a really small fuse. So it may just be that it's the wrong fuse. But we will check these transistors on the side of the monitor frame. And I'll show you how to do that here in a minute. But first we'll go back to the chassis and check some of those diodes and stuff. I mean to the deflection board and check some of those diodes. Okay so I went through and I replaced all of the electrolytic capacitors. There is a 22UF one up here. 22UF160. There are two little 2.2UF ones. One there and one there. I thought there was another one. Unless I'm missing one. Perhaps not. And then there are four really little ones. C500, 501, 502, and 503. And they are all these little .47UF 35 volt capacitors. And what people typically do is you replace those with a 1UF which is about twice as big as a .47. But usually you don't want to do that. But in this instance it's considered acceptable because I don't believe they make the .47s anymore or something like that. So that is that. Also I looked up the resistors. So the whole thing with the resistors is both of these are still fine. If you get a problem on one of the power lines, which ironically is the one that blew the fuse. If you get a problem on one of the power lines it might burn up one of these. Well it will start smoking. Well then instead of just blowing a fuse. And then whenever you later fix the problem and put in a new fuse you will have to replace the resistor too. So they are not really needed. So Wells sent out a bulletin telling you to jump over them with some thick gauge wire on the back. You just solder over them. So basically you are removing them from the circuit. I don't have any thick gauge wire though. I'm looking around to make sure I don't see anything laying somewhere. But they said you can leave them or you can jumper over them. And I've even seen some people online arguing about it. Oh this is the original design. Let's leave it how it was originally. Usually I jumper over them. But since these are still fine I don't think it's completely necessary. But we'll see. And I've got to check all of my diodes like I was saying. But we got all of the caps done. The two big filter caps you can also replace. They don't always need to be replaced. But sometimes you run into a problem where you are having issues and those need to go. There is a FAQ. Frequently Asked Questions. On black and white vector monitors there is a FAQ floating around on the internet. A document. It's one FAQ of black and white monitors. Black and white vector monitors 1.1. And it was last revised in 2002. And it tells you everything about these. So it tells you if this is happening check this. If this is happening check this. But what I typically do is look for fuses that are blown. Check all the diodes. Check this bridge rectifier to make sure nothing is shorted or anything. Replace the capacitors that are electrolytic. And then the main thing is you need to check the transistors on the side of the frame. So I'll check all the diodes and everything like I was saying. I'll put new fuses in these three spots where they've blown. And then I'll show you how to check those transistors which again is the most important thing. All of the diodes and transistors checked out. One thing I forgot to mention is all of the connectors you need to re-solder the pins on it. They will get and this one was no exception. They'll get cold solder joints where there's a little crack around the the pin. So anywhere there's a connector where something plugs in you need to re-solder the joints on the back. If you don't basically it won't be making a good connection after you know this thing is what 30 years old. No 40 years old. 40 years old. So I mean it needs a little help. So we re-soldered all the connections including the the one on the side here. So as promised let's go look at the transistors. So on the right side of the frame of the monitor you have these little clips here that hold a transistor that's mounted that's screwed to the outside of it. And then sticking through the back there are two legs and three wires come off each one. So what you need to do is you have to check to see if the case of the which is on the other side. You can't see it right now. To see if the case of that transistor is shorted to the actual frame that it's mounted to. So I'm seeing if any of them are. None of them are. So none of them are shorted to the frame which means they're all mounted right. But they can actually short inside. So we're going to check that too. So you've got three little wires here. I never can remember which one's which but you can check with your diode check between the the three wires to see if the transistor itself is blown up. Getting a reading that way. All right this one's good. So we're going to move on to the next one. Two of them will measure one way and two of them will measure the other way. Let's see here. This one is good. That one's good. Wow. I cannot believe that none of the transistors are blown. Huh. So theoretically I should be able to put the board in it and it works unless the board's messed up too. So I don't know. All the transistors are testing good. So we're going to try it. We're going to pop the board in and see what happens. Okay so I have put the board up in there. I've got all of my plugs installed and we're going to turn it on. Now the most likely thing that's going to do is it's going to blow one of those three fuses again because we haven't really fixed anything. I figured for sure there would be some bad transistors on the side. So you're going to see if you'll see a flash if that happens. Second most likely thing it'll do is that the spot killer light will still be on. And third most likely thing is that the thing will come on. So let's see. Hmm. Do you hear that? You may not be able to hear it. Let's see. Okay. So listen real close. That's called deflection chatter. Let's see if we got anything on the screen. Nothing on the screen but I turned down the brightness. So let's see if I can turn back up the brightness. Turned up the brightness a little bit. We're starting to get some stuff. Okay so we're up and running but it's all adjusted wrong. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to clean off the tube and then we'll see if we can adjust it and get a better looking picture. Okay so I cleaned it off a little bit. I'm going to turn it back on and then we'll see if we can adjust it at all. Let there be power. Can't see nothing. All right let's see if we can put it in test. All right. You probably can't see it much on the camera but it's very faintly on the screen. So it's just too dark. What I do is I have a mirror here and so I take the mirror and hold it around the edge of the cabinet so I can see a little better. Now you can go too bright. So this is the brightness control but that's pretty much all the up. But see how everything's the same brightness. You don't really want that. You want the lines to be a little bit darker than the ones in the middle. Okay now it's stretched out too far. There are adjustments on the actual PCB board. So this is the x direction and that's the y direction. And on the PCB board. Aren't I amazing to have the game running and I've got the freaking PCB board out of the game. Look it's not even plugged in and the game's still working. That's how good I am people. So you've got the x gain which is the x out and the y gain. So if you adjust these two that adjusts your size. So very carefully I'm going to turn the x and turn the y and see if I can get it a little closer to the edge of the screen. Get it to move without. Doesn't help that I still got the board hanging out the back of the cabinet. Okay that's pretty good. I'm gonna bring it in just a little bit more. On Asteroids it's got that cardboard bezel that goes around it and since the screen is completely black except for the the figures on the screen. What I do is I bring it in just a little bit extra because on the game you can't tell that it doesn't really go all the way to the edge. But if you if you take it too far sometimes you lose stuff behind the cardboard. So it's better to be a little bit too small than a little bit too wide in my opinion. Now something like that and something like that. And you can always readjust that later too. Now you probably can't see it on the camera but the lines are wiggling slightly on this side and I think it's that freaking cage that they that they left off of the thing. It's little stuff like that. If you notice too see how the the lines they're not completely straight. There's a little bit of fisheye effect from the lens of the camera but the lines are a little bit wavy. Not that they're moving but that they're consistently wavy. So the stuff looks more like a kite than a perfect diamond. There are two little adjustments on the deflection board linearity adjustments and they adjust that. So I don't know how easy I can get to those. Well that's another thing we'll mess with later. But it looks like we've got the monitor up and running. So for the first time since we got this thing going let's see if we can play it a little bit. We'll take it out of test. Now remember we don't know for sure that it completely works. This is the first we've seen it since we repaired the board. So let's see if there's any any issues with it. Now we knew that the thrust sound is missing right? No thrust sound. All right that's just not gonna work. We gotta get the sound got me. This is such a cool game. Oh you can double you can you can double shoot if you do it quick enough. I didn't know that. All right well unfortunately our thrust sound is gone but we can fix that. But I think I need to get an extra man so I can see if that sound works. I've made quite a junkyard here to play in. There's stuff all over the place. Okay so everything seems to be working fine. I don't see any issues with it. The only thing is the thrust sound and we've got a little bit of a shimmy going on. I believe that's because that cage is missing. So we need to get a cage. We need to put all the stuff back on the front and we need to figure out that thrust sound. So let's see if we can track that down. Okay folks so here's the section of the schematics that makes the thrust sound. They call it the ship sound. If that'll give us some focus. Focus will you? Ship sound they call that right? And so the way that happens is the CPU sends out this ship thrust enable signal right there. Okay and so if you look around a little blah blah back this way there is a 12 megahertz or 12 kilohertz clock signal that comes into these two chips. LS164s and you can see they have an output on pin 12 that comes down here to this P5 right? And so it says R9 and P9 generate random noise. This noise is filtered by P11 and produces the rumble sound heard when the ship is thrusting. Simple as that right? So these make noise they call it. So I put the logic probe on pin 12 and both of them are going making noise. They were just sending out a signal which I guess is this 12 kilohertz signal screwed around. Okay so they were pulsing and then I looked at P5 and that all three of those the moire pattern on this is crazy. All three of those were there we go all three of those were pulsing and then I looked at N5 all three of those were pulsing and so we get over here to this 4016 chip. So when the when the CPU tells it to enable thrust this noise coming in on pin 9 so it says I should be sent over here to the O the out pin 8. So I rigged up the the thrust button so it was always held down and started a game and pin 9 and pin 8 are pulsing away and whenever your dude dies like whenever the ship blows up 9 is still pulsing but 8 stops that's because 6 turns off so it's no longer telling it to pass it through right but as soon as the the ship appears back on screen and you've got the thrust button stuck down 8 keeps pulsing so up to there everything's working perfect and so then it goes into this which is just the stage of it that amplifies it and so there's some capacitors everything looked fine all the resistors look fine but then we get over here to this P11 is a LM324 and if you've watched any of my videos I am so quick to blame every little freaking sound problem on these op amps so LM324 and LM3900. So I swapped P11. P11 is swapped let's try it again all right so oh our thrust down has returned I'm getting some vibration from the speaker from the rumble rumble so there's probably some trash laying underneath the speaker that every time the speaker starts vibrating it makes the trash bounce around but everything's fixed so I'll see if I can get the trash out from around the speaker so it doesn't vibrate and I'll put the stuff back on the front and then we're about ready to button this thing up I still need that little the thing for the high voltage units I'm gonna see if I can track one of those down but once we get all this back on I'll come back and show you the final product looks well what do you think huh what do you think you think that'll stop RFI interference well I've always wondered if that I read that a long time ago I was wondering if that was true and it is true it looks like on my viewfinder here that the you're seeing the line shimmer a little bit to the naked eye it's not moving at all it's a rock solid that shimmering is just the camera picking it up so apparently if you have a little bit of interference going on it could definitely be that shield on the high voltage now on this one I don't know we might have to rewind the tape and look but it was only doing it I think on this side because the high voltage unit is right behind it but yeah it's rock steady now so the only thing that was holding us up was we had to order a new bezel because this one had a really bad burn mark on it it's looking pretty hazy and so we got in this really cool one from arcade shop look at that it's brand new and you can see right through it look at that very nice so we got the game up and running everything's cool one of the things on these is it's hard to figure out exactly how bright to make the screen because you can turn it up even brighter but if you do you lose some of the contrast between the the ship and the actual asteroids themselves but we think it came out pretty good brought it back to life got it looking nice still got the original control panel on it with no overlay it's definitely not perfect but it would certainly look great in anybody's game room cleaned up really nice a little cardboard bezel in there still looks good that's original you put new buttons in it just so they'd look nice and clean it wouldn't be all grimy and grungy so what do you think so I guess we'll play a couple games just to prove that it's doing its thing okay folks so we've allowed this thing to sit here in the show room for a while just burning it in and it has done one of the most common things that these do it has bloomed so see how it's too big for the screen everything's just huge it's how push start is up off the top of the screen down at the bottom where it says 1979 tarry asteroids is uh gone it's just everything's too big if yours does that after it's on for a while it's that high voltage diode so that diode that we were messing with um in the high voltage cage that thing if it starts failing it'll do that once it warms up everything will get huge like this so we're gonna have to put a new one in I hate that but it is what it is so we'll take that back out and put the uh put a new diode in it to get it back down where it's supposed to be so we pulled the old one back out put a brand new one in and we're looking good it's not blooming it's not moving and it's the right size so we'll put the back door on again and let it cook for a little bit longer and just make sure that got it all right so about four days have passed since last we filmed oh and if you don't know we i didn't sit around for four days waiting to do the next part of this video we fixed like three other games in that time some of those we've been filming videos too but we've got this one here in our showroom and after we replaced that little uh high voltage diode we left it turned on every day for like four days so people have been playing it and it hasn't bloomed anymore everything's cool so uh we're gonna play it just a little bit just to test it out make sure everything's cool and then we can tag this one is done oh they got me let me see if i can turn it up a little bit just to make it crazy all right it's thumping random nature of this game and how the blocks are you can kind of it's almost like pool believe it or not because it has um the rocks break apart at like certain angles depending on how you shot it and how it's moving it's a lot like pool really so that's if you shoot the cue ball at that ball you know so like whenever you shoot a full one it breaks apart in certain ways you know and you can kind predict how it's going to break apart so it's kind of like pool i like it i always like too how it can tell it can tell if it's putting you back on the screen right in the way of an asteroid so it waits until the asteroid goes by and then puts you back on the screen i never figured out how it could tell that like how does it know right where the asteroid's gonna be that's kind of neat that just you know it must not be moving it kind of randomly i guess i guess i could figure out a million ways to do it but it's almost like it already knows which areas are going to have an asteroid soon you know you would think if they were coding it that they would just code it you know okay right now you're here go here and now you're here go here and now you're here go here and it would just do it like that but somehow it knows i don't know i don't know how it figures it out somebody should do a in-depth study on how in the hell the asteroids game knows not to put you in front of an asteroid it has done that to me once or twice before but oh he got me usually i'm not even afraid of them things at that time he got me real good at the beginning at least you know once you get going on a little bit they're much more intelligent oh he got me again the little one see it waits till the asteroids goes by oh i should have i should have hyperspaced it out of there all right i've just been messing around let's see if i can do better i gotta at least try to get like 10 grand when the saucer the ufo comes out you have that big satellite thing on the screen that doesn't do anything unless you shoot it and then it comes at you so on asteroids deluxe whenever this whenever the ufo comes on the screen it shoots the damn saucer on purpose to make the saucer come after you we'll play one more game let's see if i can beat 8 000 i mean 10 000 one more time one more time people we gotta be serious now no more joking can y'all stop talking so much out there i can hear you through the camera you're making me nervous i'm gonna get you sucka hey i guess i could go saucer hunting won't the saucer come out if you just sit here and wait on it is that what they call it saucer hunting yep be careful what you wish for so damn okay let's not go saucer hunting that didn't work out too good he still got me come on man and ready to go so if you get one and everything's broke on it if you get one and and cosmetically there's scratches all over the control panel well you can fix it like we fixed ours if you get one and somebody's completely tore the the freaking coin door apart well you can fix it like we fixed ours if you get one and the power supply is completely gone isn't even in it anymore you can get one i mean we got one for this one right you can fix it like we fixed ours and then if the board doesn't do anything if the leds are stuck on or they don't blink or anything it's not working at all well you can fix it we fixed ours right it might take you a while took us a while but we got it if your monitor doesn't even come on you can fix it we fixed ours if the light up at the top doesn't work you can fix it we fixed ours and if the sound doesn't work now you know it can be fixed because hey we fixed ours so there you go hope you enjoyed the video basically as i was just saying everything on it was broke the sound was broke the power was broke the board the board was broke the sound the sounds that the board made were broke the coin door was broke the light bulb up at the top was broke the speaker was broke um everything but now we got it back back to life and a thing plays good and it looks good so hope you enjoyed the video leave your comments below and we'll see you on the next one now if you want to see all the games that we have available for sell you can go check them out on our website go to lionsarcade.com uh it's always up to date so we've got uh all of the games that we have in right now are on there right now if we sell one we take it down as soon as the guy walks out the door with it so we keep it up to date um and there's a little list on there too telling you the games that are coming up so if you want to buy one go check out our website or you can just go check it out if you want to see what we got in if you're nearest you can come by and see us we're in downtown rock hill south carolina that's about 15 miles south of charlotte north carolina and if you don't know where charlotte north carolina is shame on you but find charlotte and we're about 15 miles south um right over the border in south carolina charlotte is in north carolina um and uh if you uh if you can't come by and see and you're not looking to buy a game just subscribe to us here on youtube and every time we get a game in and we're working on it we film stuff we film videos of the stuff that we've got in that we uh haven't filmed videos of before and we always got something neat going on so make sure to give us a thumbs up for taking the trouble to film all this for you because we didn't have to people doesn't really help us out any we're just trying to preserve the history of these things right help people out a little bit and we think it's kind of cool putting them on where everybody can watch it see all the the coolness of the game like we we think they're cool too so give us a thumbs up and we will see you on the next video