ARCCAPTAIN MIG145 Pro - Complete Beginners Guide

Stick welding, flux core welding, lift tig welding, all with one nine and a half pound unit. This is the ArtCaptain MIG 145 Pro. Hi, I'm Mike with House on the Mend. Welcome to my complete guide to the ArtCaptain MIG 145 Pro. What you're about to watch is three weeks of steady testing and figuring out all the best ways for you to be successful with stick welding and flux core welding. I'm also going to go over everything you're going to need if you want to do tig welding, and we're going to do actual tig welding in a separate video because there's a lot of stuff you're going to need to purchase beyond what's in this unit. But in this video I have chapters, so whatever you're interested in you can just click on that next chapter, that specific chapter, fast forward, rewind, whatever you want to do to get the most out of it. So full disclosure, ArtCaptain reached out and sent me this unit right here and this absolutely gorgeous helmet for free for my independent review. I am going to, in the first chapter, unbox this unit, show you everything that comes with it. Then we are going to set up, putting in cables, what size sticks we need to successfully stick weld with this unit. I'm even going to tell you about the different stick numbers and all of that kind of stuff, condense it right down to what I recommend you buy first with this unit. It couldn't be easier. Then I am going to go over, step by step, how to get ready. So put on the spool, connect the connections for flux core welding. I am even going to go over some items that I recommend that you upgrade with, like this little black hood right here, this beautiful ground clamp instead of the one that comes with it. Very inexpensive upgrades that make a huge difference. I am also going to compare this helmet to the one I've had for like 15 years and, spoiler alert, rave over the difference. There are other accessories that are going to make you very successful, like this slag hammer and this wire brush, compared to the little one that comes with the unit. We are also going to have a quick blurb about the appropriate safety equipment, cap, helmet, this welding shirt and gloves and what not to wear. If you find any of this helpful, will you please give me a thumbs up and also consider subscribing? All right, here comes the unboxing. Well it is laughably windy out here today. Check this out. So much so that I am tucked over in the corner of our garage area here so that I can do this unboxing. Now I'd love to be downstairs in the basement in my office that I made in a previous video. However, we have a professional drywall crew down there today and there's joint compounds slinging everywhere. It is unworkable down there, so let's make the best of it. Now it is so windy that I didn't want to just do the classic unbox, pull everything out, and have bags and things flying everywhere. So let's do a ta-da reveal. All right, we have the unit right here. We'll get a weight on that without anything loaded onto it, in case you're curious. It comes with a two pound spool of 0.035 flux core wire. You also get the grounding cable, and we're going to take a closer look at the connection here. I have reviewed a previous welder where this was kind of the weak point in my opinion of getting a good ground, but we're going to test it as is first. This one here is our stick welder. I'm excited about this. This is the first type of welding that Aspen learned on, and we're going to do some testing and compare it to her welds. We then have our MIG wand here. You get a bag, a nice nylon bag for the unit. That's pretty cool, and a shoulder strap if that's your jam. You also get this tiny little hammer here. I think the brush would be probably usable, but you can like put your fingers through the bristles. So I've never been too impressed with these included slag hammers, but they give you one to get you started. It comes with a vacuum sealed welding cap. If you're ever down welding or getting up high, sometimes you get enough splatter that it's going up and over the mask and hit you in the back of the head. I have had that happen before. Maybe that's why I've got such a significant bald spot back there. All right, what I really wanted to get to today, even in the wind, was the manual so I can start reading up on everything and get a set with the right size sticks for the stick welding, all that kind of deal. A couple things inside of the same bag as the manual is it has a setup guide. Now it is a pretty large card. I don't think it's a sticker. Not sure. We'll check. Typically that goes in the door. So you'd open this door here and you can see what to dial in as far as your wire speed and your power depending on the thickness of the metal. I don't see a spot where that can go because down here on the door, as you can see, they have the setup to get the wire spool rolling through the MIG line and out to the wand. Lastly, in this bag you get some stickers. They're pretty cool. I'll give you a close-up of them here. My favorite, I guess the one I most connect with, is I'm a dad and a welder. Nothing scares me. Pretty fun. Now one thing I don't see in here is anything to do with TIG welding. On the box, on the website, and even on this unit, it says lift TIG. But I don't see that type of wand you get. Usually it's like a wand. You have the stick and you also have a foot pedal on some models to guide your progress through. So I'm not sure if that is an add-on accessory, but I did not see that anywhere in the listing on their website. Maybe I just didn't read through it thoroughly enough, but that's why I want to get into the manual and we'll figure that out. Now as promised, the unit by itself is 9.1 pounds. Now not included with the MIG welder, but something our captain did send to Aspen and I is one of their auto darkening helmets. And I hope if they send it to you via FedEx, it doesn't turn out as ravaged as this one did. Maybe put it within another box. Oh nice. So this comes in a bag with the manual and a brand new battery. And let's take a look at it. Wow, that is gorgeous. It's an American flag with a bald eagle on both sides. Really nice set of dials and switches here. You can obviously loosen or tighten the headband. And then a really nice headband with a rubber back strap here for the back of your head. Dials in the tightness really easy. It's a nice big wheel for that too. I imagine even with a glove on or even without, you can still get to it pretty easy without looking, right? So beautiful. Well, in addition to the obvious need for a helmet, some other safety items that are recommended would be caps. This is the included one that came with the welder. This one is much smaller. I got it for Aspen. Gloves. I really like these Black Stallion ones. And speaking of Black Stallion, these are Aspen and I's welding jackets. They're really heavy duty cotton fire retardant. Now on a cold day like today, I would love to be wearing this puffy jacket or these lined pants. But both of them are petroleum based and the slightest little spark or bit of slag coming off would burn holes in them. It's also pretty dangerous when you're welding or grinding. Though not a wearable, as long as we're on the subject of safety, eventually you're going to want an extension cord unless you can always be within, what, three or four feet of an outlet. So the majority of your extension cords are 14 gauge wire, less than what is preferred running through your house. So I would definitely stay away from those and instead not even go with a 12 gauge but a 10 gauge wire like this one. I picked this up at Harbor Freight. It's 25 feet long. That should be more than enough for me. But we don't want to add resistance to the line and when we're trying to crank up that amperage a bit, when we get to bigger types of welds, then we run a risk of kicking off the breaker a lot sooner with smaller gauged wire. Let's set up for stick welding, also known as shielded metal arc. So here's your two ports. You can see there is a positive and a negative right on these two little ports. So this one makes absolute sense. Your ground cable goes to the negative. You have a key on here that you slip into place and then turn clockwise to tighten it right into place. Good to go. The handle for the stick in this case is a positive. You sit that into that keyhole and turn it, lock it right into place. That's all you need to do. Now I'm going to turn this on and show you how to program it, but don't have the stick and the ground touch the same metal surface or you can flash yourself. It is very bright. Aspen tells me that happens at school all the time and they criticize the kids and laugh at them for that. Once the cables are set up, we can apply power. The switch is in the back. Let's turn it on. When you first turn it on, it goes through this kind of warm-up process with the fan, but that ends up shutting off in a very small amount of time. First thing we want to do is the mode button. So when you first start it, it's probably going to be on the flux core welding or what they call MIG welding. You want to press the mode button until you see this stick welding icon and it's just the included handle with a stick coming off of it at an angle. That's your stick welding. Neither of the other two buttons have any function for this kind of welding. After that, you experiment around with the amount of amperage and that's all there is to it. Now once you have your cables properly attached for stick welding, I would recommend that you have the unit off of your table like I have just sitting aside over here. I have it just sitting on our UTV and the reason for that is when you're welding, you're creating a lot of slag and there's splatter and sparking and it's just going to get your unit dirty. It might even mess with the circuitry. So I'm setting it aside so that I don't have to worry about it getting messed up or the screen getting burned or anything like that. Now to set you up for success with stick welding on this unit, let's talk about the sticks themselves. So when you get this unit, it has everything you need except the actual sticks. That's because, believe it or not, there are a ton of different sizes and types of sticks for different types of metal, different thicknesses, whether you're welding up, uphill, overhead, all sorts of things. And these number codes are what designate what the sticks are good for. That is overwhelming for beginners like us. So let me make it super easy for this unit. I tried out three very common sticks that are the size range that a unit like this can handle. And that is the 6010, the 6013, and the 7014. These are also the size ranges of sticks that Aspen had been working with in welding school. So that prompted me to get them as well since she's already used to them. Now the numbers, the 60 or the 70, and then the number after them, 10, 13, 14, those all have very specific meanings about what kind of metal they're good for. And it can be super confusing. So after about five to ten sticks each out of these packets, here are my results and thoughts. Well after several days of testing, here's basically what I have come up with. 6010, the smallest of them all, at any power is terrible. 6013 at 100 amps is really smooth and nice. And 7014 at 125 is going this way is also very nice. Now you noticed me in that clip that I was talking about the amp settings that I used. If you look on the provided setup guide for this unit, you can see that with stick welding, you almost immediately, when you get up into slightly thicker metals, not even quarter inch steel like I was practicing on, it wants you to jump up to 145 amps, the top setting. However, I didn't use that setting. In fact, if I got up too high, I noticed that I was having splatter issues. Also the metal was getting super red hot, which might not be a bad thing. Maybe that's getting good penetration on the weld, but also that the stick was getting too hot and it was almost exploding as it was going along. It was creating so many sparks, like a sparkler instead of a welding implement. So I found that for the 6013 and 7014, you should be at 100 amp setting and 125 amp setting respectively, and just stay away from these 6010s. For whatever reason, me and this unit could not get along with that specific stick. Last thing I want to cover on the stick itself is if you look at this close up, you can see that if you pull off from a weld, you will get this sealed area of kind of a shiny black, almost plastic looking material. That's going to make it very hard to start another weld. So it's not uncommon to be going along, pull off of that weld, and then want to start another one and still have stick left. I found the best and easiest thing to do is when you have your gloves already on, you can just chip away at that piece. It comes right off and it exposes a shiny piece of metal. Once you see a shiny piece of metal in my testing, you are good to go to start another arc. Now if you look at this close up, there's like a star shaped pattern on one side that is for stick positioning. So the most common is this perpendicular 90 degrees here, but you can also set it up like this and it's in that little area there that holds it nice and tight. So above 90 degrees, or you can set it below 90 degrees. And in certain areas, I'm sure that can be very convenient. In fact, I did some testing with it like this and I found that I had the most success starting out as a beginner just at 90 degrees. Now I would also recommend after all that testing that when you are starting the arc, which can be the most frustrating or the most difficult time, that's why I think the 6010s are so terrible. I found with all the theories out there for beginners like us, I would have a slight angle. You're going this way. I would have a slight angle and then I found if you had the stick swipe and then make, I'm exaggerating, but almost a circle back and then let it sit there to get that pull going. I had the best success. You will also be shocked with how fast you need to be lowering the stick because it's eating all this material on it. There are ways or techniques of touching down and then coming up real quick to start your arc. I found that to stick the shielded metal rod right to your work every time. I had to come by with a little almost like a match strike and then come back to get it not to stick like that. Next, let's talk about the included grounding clamp. If you look at this close-up, you'll see there's basically like two teeth on each side of the clamp and when you're clamping down on your metal product that you are welding, you're really only getting these two teeth because the other side of the clamp is usually on your work surface. Even so, you would be getting these four small points on your work even if you were clamped like this to your work product. For that reason, I found you had to have this clamp on the work product. There are lots of videos out there where professional welders will have the clamp set aside somewhere on the table and they can weld anywhere on their table. This is only a two foot by three foot table. For example, I found when I had the clamp anywhere but making direct contact with the metal I was welding that I would lose the arc. I was getting a lot of splatter and it was very unsuccessful. So, my recommendation for getting started with this MIG 145 welder is to have this included clamp right on the actual metal you are welding. Now, for a small amount, fifteen dollars, you could consider upgrading to this. They call this the earth clamp on Amazon. Fifteen dollars. I'll leave a link for it. But if you look at this close up, you have on both sides a rather thick piece of bent copper that's going to make full contact all the way across and then both sides of the clamp are joined with this band. Unlike this one that has just the spring and this one kind of pin going across to join both sides. So, I'm going to switch to this one and give you my thoughts on if I'm getting better more consistent welds. Now, another thing to consider since we need to have with this MIG 145 unit direct contact with the metal. If you're trying to weld something out here in the field that you can't comfortably get the clamp on to make a good connection with it, a magnetic one like this where you can pull back this handle, remove this little bolt that you see in this close-up. You can then magnetically clamp to your product anywhere on the table. Next, the included hammer. So, on one side you have the hammer and a wire brush. As soon as you are done with that weld, there is a slag that is covering it. And once that cools, you need to chip it away to reveal the actual weld. And then the wire brush gets the sides of it that the actual chipping away doesn't do. I found this little tiny surface here, the actual little hammer face that's only about the size of a kernel of corn to be very ineffective in trying to chip away that slag. So, instead I went to Harbor Freight and bought this dedicated welding hammer and it's got a chisel on one side and a little sharper end on the other. You can see here in this picture how much bigger it is and it worked great at just chipping away that slag. And then the difference between these two brush heads is tremendous. I found the included brush with all these gaps in it in both directions to be very ineffective and instead I bought a two-pack of these wooden wire brushes at Harbor Freight for very little money and it works great. You can also use an attachment to your angle grinder like this one except I recommend you don't get a coarse, get a fine. This coarse one is bound and wound and it doesn't have the flexibility to get down off the sides of your weld because your weld is kind of rounded like this. So, I actually have a very small one for this little three-inch grinder that we'll talk about a little more in a second coming that I'm anxious to try because I think it'll get into those sides and really clean up the weld good. All of this is still making your weld or the starting of the arc tougher and frustrating. I would recommend you try metal preparation. So, when you buy this metal from a steel company or from Home Depot, it has this cover on it, this kind of darker cover on it that is like a slag cover that is from the manufacturing process. Stick welding is famous for breaking through that and just being able to weld without it, but I watched a video where a professional actually prepped his metal before making a project so I decided to try that with this little flat disc and I cleaned up the metal as you can see in this close-up here to remove that kind of darker material and I had great success. So, 30 seconds of prepping the metal to get that cover or paint or whatever off of your weld I think will give you great success as well. All right, I changed out the ground clamp and let's go through the runs. So, this first run up top here the ground clamp was on the workpiece. No splatter spray and you can see we have a fine bead there, but there is splatter here and here that is so strong it won't come off with the hammer. So, the next pass I used anti-splatter spray this mid pass here and I was surprised at how blotchy it was. So, I would say with that splatter spray you really need to slow down and focus more on keeping the heat in because it just turned into blobs and I didn't change anything at all. Now, this third pass here I had actually turned it around so I could get my vice grip to hold it still. This one I put the ground clamp away this far so it's about eight inches away and it did surprisingly well. There was a little more splatter but I had splatter spray on so you can't really see it. It ran along fine. I was really taking my time going slow and then it just quit right here. Do you see that flat spot? It just quit because I got the stick just the slightest bit away whereas normally when the clamp is on it, it keeps the arc. So, interesting. So, here's another recommendation if you're struggling to make good welds. Have the right mask. So, I bought this guy from Amazon probably 10-15 years ago and I've always struggled to see my welds. Well, for the first time ever I'm comparing it to a really quality mask in this arc capped and look at the difference here. You have this is the screen that you can look out of and that's the solar panel that charges it. So, you have that tiny little area that to look out of with the arc capped. This whole thing is your see-through area and just that little stripe above is the solar panel and the shade setting on this one is so much more adjustable when you kick off that arc. You can really see the puddle going along. It's just such a difference maker. Next, let's set up for flux core welding. I know they call it MIG but MIG is metal inert gas. This device does not transmit gas through the nozzle for this to be considered MIG welding. Instead, this is flux core welding and they include 0.035 or 0.9 millimeter sized flux core wire with it. So, let's set up for that. Now, unlike when we were stick welding when the negative was our ground and the positive was where we welded from. If you look right here in the negative, you will see a hole right in the center of that keyhole that is for the wire to come through and up here in the positive it is solid. So, you will know how to set this up. It's intuitive because the wire is going to come out from the side right through that hole. So, with that being said, I'm going to turn this around like this so we can take a look at the door. Push down and down comes the door. So, with the door down you can see everything we have to work with. Now, there is a little sheet right here that explains everything we're about to do but the spool of wire goes on here. It is spring-loaded to keep tension on it so it's not wobbling all over the place. It's fed through this little bugle here. This is the tensioner that you pull down then you lift this wheel up. See that one? That exposes and gives you access to this tricorder hat guy right here. So, you want to turn him lefty loosey, pull that off, and that reveals the wheel. There are two sizes to this wheel. Do you see these two black lines on the camera? Those are actually grooves cut into this wheel. One side is 0.8 millimeters, the other side is 0.9 millimeters. The flux core that they sent us is 0.035 which also translates to 0.9 millimeters. So, we want that one to face outside, meaning we can read it and that lines up with this bugle that the wire is going to feed through. So, let's leave all that open. We're going to put this guy back into place there. The wire is going to go through that groove and onto this wheel for tension and on out. Now, I love to see this when you buy flux core wire, which is that it's sealed in a bag of some sort so that it's not oxidizing over time. You're getting a nice fresh wire. And if you don't weld a lot, it's nice that they have these little, what, two pounders instead of buying the big old reel that you really need to burn through. My Lincoln has that and that's great if you're in a shop. Otherwise, not so much. Okay, we want to be careful not to spring the whole thing on ourselves. So, it's also wrapped in like a paper tape. You can see right here they have crimped that line and then put it underneath the tape. So, we're going to want to cut that. And I have welding pliers that are going to help us get this part out, just like that. And we're going to need to cut that. I'm holding on to it so it doesn't unspool on me, right? There we go, a nice clean cut. Now, you'd think it would be set up to have the sticker on the outside, but nope, you have to turn it around. So, we're just going to unscrew this guy. And then we're going to put the spool on. And let's feed the wire through here so we don't have any mishaps. We're going through this little bugled area of what looks like a spring, right through. There it comes. And then we also want to feed it through this hole here that is not fluted for us. All right, all the way through. Let's clamp that down to hold it in place. And there we go. We're all set. Let's put this back on. See this notch right into place? It's actually kind of oval shaped, so you can't go wrong there. And the only thing it says down here is, turn it counterclockwise to tighten. It doesn't give you an exact amount or anything of tension, just enough to hold it in place, but that it can move freely like that. Now, with the door closed, we can concentrate on connecting the torch. So, a simple keyhole goes into the slot, and we turn. This goes quite a bit more before it locks into place. And then you have this little plug here, two prongs, and it's got a little divot in it so it can only go in one way. And then you screw that into place. There we go. All right, now a word about the actual torch. So the line that comes with the welder, as we've talked about ad nauseum now, is 0.9 millimeters. But if you pull off this hood, which is just kept by this spring right here, it's not threaded, you will see that this little consumable is a 0.8. So they ship it with the wrong nozzle on, and you would have all kinds of problems if you didn't watch this video trying to get the flux core wire out of your torch. So that should be worth the thumbs up. In this bag that's included is the right size. So through the magic of editing, I'm going to put that in real quick. So here's the correct one. We can put that on. It's fluted in there. We probably wouldn't have any issue, but I'm going to go ahead, just to make sure we don't bind anything up, and I'm going to run it through without that. And then I'll just put that on afterwards. And it has this little notch on either side, so we can use our welding pliers and cinch it down. Now these are not included, but I've purchased these one at Home Depot, this pair I think at Harbor Freight. You have, the most important part, are these clippers right here. This back side has a divot to the actual cutters, and that is pretty much a good standoff. You want a little bit of the flux core wire coming out before you strike the arc, so that you're not burning up the tip, the consumables, too quick. And that's about a perfect amount. So you just kind of line it up with the wire coming out like this, and clip it off. 10 to 16 millimeters is what this unit calls for. Now before we go any further, let's talk about this shield right here. This shield is for when inert gas is coming through and shielding the weld on a true MIG welder. I don't know why they include this, maybe so that the pictures look more authentic. But when this is in place, it's actually going to be harder for you to see when you're starting your weld, which is a sacrifice you make when you're using shielding gas. But instead, you'd probably be better off just using one of these. I got these from Harbor Freight as well. These are just little plastic, almost ceramic type shields. And when you put them on, the nozzle is much closer to view, and it's basically just protecting this whole area back here and keeping it cleaner. Without any shielding glass, you're just going to get gas. You're just going to get splatter coming back and getting all over the inside with a hood like this. With that connected, and in our case the consumable tip off, it's time to run the wire through. So let's first turn the power on. You can see right here we are still selected for stick welding. So let's hit the mode button. That is TIG. One more is our flux core setting. Now it's already preset for 0.035, which is great. But what we want to do right now is extend out the torch and run that wire through. Now the cable here for the torch is much shorter at six and a half feet compared to the stick welding torch that is 10 feet. So I like to extend these out nice and straight so that we have less of a chance of binding it or grinding the little wheels in there. And let's just pull the trigger. Very quiet, but I can hear it going. I can feel a little vibration in the line. Oh, it's binding up. You hear that? It came off the reel. Oh boy, let's try that. There it comes. Okay, let's turn the power off so there's no chance of anything happening. Then we can slide on our tip. There it goes. Tighten that into place here. Now if you want, before we put this hood on, you can hit that with a little bit of anti-splatter spray if you're noticing that your tip's getting worn away. But I want to try the consumables they sent us without any of that. But there we go, and now you don't have that big metal shield that's not serving any purpose disguising the front of the tip and where you're going to start your weld and allowing splatter spray to come back. You see this close-up picture here is really nice and tight there so you won't have any debris back this way. All that's left to do is hook up the ground wire and we're ready to go. So I just ran a bead of flux core with the clamp way over there. That's like 12 inches or a little bit more away, and while there's flux everywhere, there isn't actual splatter on the table that doesn't come right off. And look at this thick even bead that I got. That's really impressive. There it is all cleaned off. I don't see any porosity holes. It's almost like a gouge right there, but the other ones are just splatter on a hot weld. So wow, all these little ones I was going faster. I took my time with that one. So with previous flux core welders I've owned, I've always clipped off the end. Otherwise, I oftentimes wouldn't get an arc to start. So I tried not doing that on this weld. Look how pretty that is. And the piece I didn't clip got red hot, broke off, and still started right there and pressed on with a really nice weld. I don't know how they do that, but that's pretty cool. So the first coupon I tested on is this 1-8 inch steel. These were the first four lines I did. This one down here being one and two. And you can see on the second one I actually had a jam and had to go back open the door and loosen the spool. But that's the only place where I got even one single dot of porosity. Every place else there's little marks from splatter, but no porosity holes. That's pretty impressive. I was going really fast here in the beginning, but you can see I started slowing down, getting thicker welds. This is my second set of four. I had some splatter up there, but otherwise just really nice welds. Look at that one. No holes. I've never ever had a flux core welder that didn't have porosity holes all over it. And I can't help but think it's this unit. It is the flux core wire that they sell and changing to a high quality clamp. Well here is my first weld. No splatter spray on quarter inch steel. And it looks really nice if we flip it over. You can see definite discoloration there, meaning we're probably getting pretty good heat penetration. And that is on the 100 amp setting, just like we did with our eighth inch welds. You could probably kick it up to 125. If you want to get a little hotter, maybe this splatter here is indicative of that. But I'm going to run some with splatter spray on it and we'll see. So there we are with splatter spray and you can see just the tiniest little dots as compared to this one that had sizable ones that wouldn't come off. So as you can see with this insert here, I'm getting really good results. The same as I was getting with stick welding, so I'm very impressed. Final thoughts on the unit for flux core welding. I did everything at 100 amps. Worked great, no breakers cutting out, nothing like that. I would be sure to have the spool fairly loose because it easily binds up with just those little metal wheels pulling the wire through. So that was the only issue I had performance-wise. Finally, we come to lift TIG welding, which this unit is capable of, of course. But there are so many accessories you are first going to need to purchase that I think we're going to split it into a separate video because first you will need to purchase this specific item right here. Here's a screenshot of it. This is the Arc Captain TIG torch specific to this unit and a couple other of their units. It has the torch up front. It has a dial on it to dial in the gas. Speaking of the gas, it also has this hose attached to it that needs to go to a regulator. Not included. That regulator attaches to a bottle of gas. TIG welding requires pure argon gas, not any kind of blend that you may be using for MIG welding like carbon dioxide blend or pure carbon dioxide. Pure argon gas. You are also going to need the tungsten rod that affixes to this torch and they don't include any because, you guessed it, there are so many and they're all color-coded. So just like the sticks, the actual tungsten rod has a bunch of different uses. So we'll go over that in a separate video. You are also going to need that filler material. They come in little rods and you have mild steel. You have aluminum. There's probably stainless steel and some others. Because there's so much of this, I really think we should break that into a separate video, which once it is complete, you will find it right up there. Now, this whole video took me three weeks. It's an accumulation, a culmination of three weeks of recording edited down into this almost hour-long video. So if you've made it this long, thank you so much. Would you please give it a thumbs up if you found it helpful? Also, please consider subscribing. I'm going to be making at least two more videos, maybe three on this exact unit, and I also do a lot of DIY content and other tool reviews, and it's super helpful to the channel. Now I'm going to be leaving links for everything I discussed throughout this video. Full disclosure, those will be clearly marked in the description below as Amazon affiliate links. If you click on any of those and do end up making any purchase, it won't cost you a thing, but I do get a small reward at the end of the month, which is why I'm forced to disclose that to you. I'm also going to leave a link to Ark Captain's website. It is full of great resources, and also all of these specific items are on there for a very good price. I ordered these items to test their website. Great packaging and came in a timely manner, but Amazon also has all of these items, these kind of like expendables, on there as well. So until the next video, thank you for watching. That one went pretty good, I think. I think that was good.