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Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's
Classic Video Games back with another
cool pinball repair video for you this
evening. We have been working on this
valley supersonic.
It might be a 10-footer, maybe more like
a 20-footer. This poor thing, we got it
in really rough shape. Um, the playfield
is about half destroyed.
We're going to be working on that in the
near future. Uh, the cabinet has heavy
wear.
We put some nice legs on it. Um, and
then we tried to boot the thing up.
There were a couple boards missing. So,
the solenoid driver board and the lamp
driver board was missing. We thought,
"Okay, well, those aren't that big of a
deal. We've got those." And, uh, I
worked on the power supply a little bit
and turned the thing on and it like, you
know, zapped big timez
on camera. So, if you didn't see that,
go back and watch. It's a few videos
back here on this uh series of videos.
I've been trying to color code the
thumbnails. So, if you go back and look,
it's the ones that are light blue with
yellow writing, just like this
supersonic blue and yellow. Um, so we've
been slowly working through it. The the
MPU board had a short on it that sent 43
volts through every board in the game
and fried every chip on the game pretty
much with a few exceptions.
So, we did one where we worked on the
power supply. We did one where we worked
on the solenoid driver board, which was
missing. Got it going. Then we did one
where we rebuilt the MPU that was fried.
Every chip on the MPU was fried. Got it
going. Um, and then we did one where we
worked on the displays and got them all
going. They were fried, too. They even
fried my displays. What are they doing
to me?
So, we've about got the thing where it's
almost playable. Um, but the next thing
that it needs is the lamp driver board.
None of the lights work because the lamp
driver board's actually missing. So, we
know now why they're missing.
But those are just where I repinned one
of the connectors. That's not a little
rat. Look, I don't know why y'all even
thought that. It's not rat drop. Look,
don't worry about it.
So, the lamp driver board was missing
and the solenoid driver board was
missing. So, we need to scrge through my
parts
uh pile. my super duper secret valley
parts pile and see if I've got a lamp
driver board that we can put in this
sucker. Now, this thing um
they made three or four different
varieties,
but they all do the exact same thing and
they're all interchangeable. So, if I
can find one Bali lamp driver board
that's in decent shape, we'll be good to
go. So, let's go look in the uh let's go
look in the warehouse.
So, just for giggles, I figured I'd look
in the manual and just see what the part
number was of the original board because
I've got a whole bunch of different ones
and just it'd be interesting to see if I
have the exact one, the exact number
that was in it originally. It doesn't
really matter, but yeah, it's
interesting, right? Um, and I found this
in the manual. I've never seen this. It
says module component starter kits. Each
kit contains an assortment of the most
needed electronic parts for use in
module repair. Kit 490 for the rectifier
board. Kit 503 for the MPU board, but it
doesn't contain the memory uh U1 through
U6. Kit 492 for the solenoid driver
voltage regulator board. Kit 493 for the
display driver. Kit 494 for the lamp
driver. Kit 518 for the soundboard.
That's interesting. So, there were
little kits. I'd love to find some
paperwork where they just described what
was in the kit. That'd be cool.
All right. uh MPU module. So, it was the
-35 by the time Supersonic came around.
There was an earlier one that was the
-17, I think, of the MPU. It's just just
slightly different. Um, it can be
modified to make it a 35. Okay. So,
that's that. Now, let's see here. Here
we go. So, the one that was in it was
the AS2518-23.
And that's what it looks like.
2518-23.
So, we'll see um if we've got one like
that, but I'll show you. We've got a
whole bunch of different versions.
We've got a few of them. Um this is the
type of stuff I like to hoard because
they have very little value, but if you
need one, saves you 100 bucks. Or the
price used to be a hundred bucks. Are
they still 100 bucks? They might be 150
now. You can buy brand new ones. So,
it's not the end of the world. But if
I've got all of these parts ones and
this game's kind of ratty
and we're doing this whole series on
fixing each board, well, why not fix one
of these? You know, that's kind of how I
do it. Anyways, I just to me there's
like an efficiency to it. It's just so
cool that I've got a bunch of them
sitting around that I haven't pulled any
of these out of games, by the way. I put
them back into games. Y'all are all
parting them out. I'm parting them in.
See, I'm about to part this one in. But,
um, I don't know. Um, I don't know where
these all came from. I've picked them up
all over the place. U, sometimes you buy
things and there's a bunch of extra
boards or there was a point where I
probably bought some of these and had
them shipped off of eBay or something.
Um, but I've been scavenging parts off
of them and stuff for years. So, we'll
see if we can find one that's fairly
complete that we can just pop in there
to test um and then repair.
So, -23 was the one that was in it. But
any of these would work. If they uh if
they're complete, we're going to go with
them. So, this is actually a Stern. If
you don't know about these early BS,
Stern completely ripped off their design
and did and made their system exactly
the same. From what I understand, the
way that they did it was they bought the
company that Bal used to make their own
boards. So Bali
had contracted out to this company to
make the boards and Stern just bought
the company and used the same exact
board design for their machines. How
that works, I don't know, but that's the
story. Okay, this one's pretty complete,
but it's also it looks pretty corroded.
You know, it may just be a couple little
spots in the game. This sits right
underneath the MPU. There's about that
much space between the MPU board and it.
And on the very bottom of the MPU, right
in the center, is the battery. And so,
the battery leaks and it screws up the
board um all over the MPU. Now, from
what I understand, it's actually leaking
like a gas or something, too. So, that
explains why this gets all screwed up
because it's just in the proximity of
it. But you also sometimes will see like
a drip mark where alkaline has dripped
out of the battery down and screwed up
the board where it hit the board
underneath it. Just wild. But,
so this is a stern one. Let's look at
the back.
Yeah, it's completely fixable, but it's
pretty rough. You know, this is better
off as a parts board just because, you
know, you got so many of them. If we do
eventually have to use this one, we
will, but it'll be down the road. It
might be good to scavenge parts off of
though. You know, if you need one of
these little suckers. Look at these
little suckers.
Doesn't this stuff all just have kind of
like a beauty to it? Look at that. What
a cool little board. All right, let's
check out some of the other ones. So,
next up,
D-23.
So, that's the one that was originally
in it, but it's missing a bunch of
parts. I've already scavenged a bunch of
stuff off of it, or somebody did. So,
this is basically just a parts board
now.
Looks like it had a transistor burn up
on it. That's probably why we started
parting it.
This looks like another one.
Dash23.
Doesn't look too bad. Does have some
missing parts, but you know, you could
steal them off that one. Now, this is
another interesting thing to point out.
It's a -23, but it's a revision one.
Well, they're both revision ones.
Look how it says replacement for -14,
but the SCRs in the middle here are
completely different than the SCRs on
this one. It's also a completely
different color.
They you you know, you got to remember
they were making a ton of these games.
This this would have been probably the
same board in eightball and eightball
was the biggest selling game of all
time.
Kind of
kind of.
All right. This is yet another Ballet
23.
This one looks pretty good,
but it's got some corrosion.
Yeah, this one isn't very good,
actually. Look at that.
Look at that. We didn't look at this
one.
Yeah, it's had a big boo boo.
Had a little fire issue. You know,
sometimes that happens
like on this game.
Next.
Dash 23. But there ain't much left,
folks.
She's about done. And now there ain't no
way I did this cuz I wouldn't have I
mean they've taken almost every
SCR off of there.
They did a pretty good job. I see a
couple lifted traces, but most of it's
pretty decent. And there's no corrosion
to say
or to mention.
All right, so this one says dead.
Some guy named RL said dead parts March
4th, 2017.
He probably didn't even know what he was
talking about, but
should we take his word for it?
We'll keep it out just in case.
Uh, where can I set all this stuff? I
got too many of them.
Um,
okay. So, this is the -14. So, this is
the earlier one.
I would have assumed that was the later
one.
It's missing, you know, about half of
the SCRs,
but looks decent. It's completely
fixable.
Here is another stern one.
I guess it goes this way.
H
I just noticed something I never noticed
before.
Uh I'll show you on this next one
because it's a valley. Uh this one looks
it's pretty much complete now. All of
these little things being bent over.
It's not that big of a deal.
You just don't want two of the legs to
touch. And you really don't want
the the tab to touch the other one
either. I mean, that wouldn't be good.
But that thing's probably fine. So, this
one may just slide right in there and
work. There's a little something going
on in a couple spots.
But that may be a good board. Like I
said, those things being bent over
doesn't mean anything. That's just they
all look like that. Brand new.
Yeah, that may be that very well may be
a good board
if we get down to where we just have to
have one. But here's what I just
noticed.
Um,
this is the original one, the -14. And
look, there's extra chips
that they were able to get rid of
on the -23. That's interesting.
What in the world?
H, I never noticed that. So, they're
MC14514s,
4514s.
I bet those are the same thing. They
just um
they're using the Motorola part number,
so they they kind of hide the part
number. Let's see if I can find one that
doesn't that actually shows the part
number.
Yeah.
4514. So, it's the same chip,
but somehow they were able to get rid of
four little support chips,
which were 4050s.
Huh.
Yeah, I never noticed that.
And it looks like the resistors are
pretty much the same. I mean, there's
resistors on this one.
The chip's just gone.
I'm sure they're
I'm sure it was overdesigned a little
bit and they figured out that hey,
we don't actually need that. Okay, so
this one would this one looks really
good and it's a it's a valley.
Oo, I see a little corrosion,
but still not that bad. Let's see what
the back look looks like.
Yeah, backspine.
That's a strong candidate.
These three we like so far.
Uh, so this one half the stuff's
missing. This kind of was that is this
one I was already looking at?
Are we going backwards?
It looks pretty good, but it's missing
half the stuff.
It's another -14.
Looks pretty good. Missing one SCR. No
big deal. We'll have more than that of
them messed up. Yeah, it looks looks
nice. It's not that bad.
Very usable. I still got all kinds of
good stuff.
Boy, this one looks good. But some guy
named RL again has written parts half
the chips bad.
October 28th, 2019.
He probably did that on some video where
he showed that uh half the chips or half
the lights were out and he just swapped
in another board and got it going.
But this one looks pretty decent. So,
you know, if they could be just if it
could be fixed with a couple chips.
Um,
some of these are missing already.
Another thing about these,
not all of them are used. So, if you
look at the schematics, there's several
of these that don't that aren't
connected to anything. It's designed
into the board and it connects out to
the uh wiring harness. But on some of
the games, like if it can do 60 light
bulbs, on some of the games they may
have only done 50 light bulbs, so 10 of
the transistors don't do anything. So
depending on which game you put it in.
All right, this is a good one to look at
here. So this one at first glance looks
fine, but then you see the grip. So, the
battery would have been right up here.
And if you look, there is like a column
right under the battery that's all
screwed up.
And you can actually kind of see it like
see it
over here. Everything looks good. Over
here, everything looks good. It's just
right under where the battery was.
Pretty wild. But that would have been
our one. That one would have been
perfect. And it may still work. What I
would do, yeah, you can see it real good
like that. What I would do on this one
if I was going to try to use it is take
a wire brush and just go crazy on the
middle of it. Just try to rub all of
that freaking corrosion off there that
you can and then hit it with a little
vinegar to neutralize it and see what
see if it'll work. But it feels like the
back's messed up.
Yeah, I remember this one. It looked
like it was decent, but if you look at
the back, you just can't use it. These
traces on the bottom. This is really
strange, too.
This is actually the bottom of the
board, but for whatever reason, it
usually gets in worse shape than the top
of the board, even though that battery
is right there. I don't know why it does
that, but it does. Um, but you can just
see that this is pretty rough. Well, if
you have this a little bit, you can sand
that down and then put a jumper wire.
Um, and then some of those traces aren't
even needed. So sometimes they have um
where it's connected to like two pins.
So like if we look at this this one
um so this is a pin that is used in the
back box. So this connector goes to
lamps in the back box. But if you look
that one trace comes out and it goes all
around and it goes all the way around
the bottom of the board. You can see how
easily that would get damaged if it's
damaged like that. And then it comes up
here and it connects there, which this
is one of the ones that goes to the
playfield
and then connects over to
this resistor.
Um, blah blah blah. Well, anyway,
um,
so they are using one SCR
to connect to the playfield, but also to
connect to the backbox. So sometimes you
get lucky and maybe it doesn't use the
lamp in the back box. It just uses the
one on the playfield. It's different for
every game, but you know, whatever.
These these are easy enough to fix that
you don't really need to be using
crippled boards. Um
sometimes that I guess that lamp might
be the um same player shoots again lamp
if it's connected to both.
All right, so that one looked promising,
but no dice.
Now, this one is interesting.
This is the Stern LDA100. Again,
uh I guess it's similar to the one that
we already looked at, but look how
they've done theirs. There's actually
transistors over on the left side before
the
chips. And then instead of having them
all sorted
like these are, they're all kind of just
mixed in. The reason that they have
those bigger SCRs is because that's
typically the one that they're using to
drive two lamps like we were just
talking about. So on the playfield, a
lot of times you'll have something
that'll say um
uh lights 100 or it'll say like scores
1,00 when lit and it'll light up over
here and then it'll also light up over
here. or there'll be a couple places on
the playfield that use that same exact
feature or it'll say like um um you know
A B C D and whenever you roll through
this it turns on A and it turns it on up
here and then there's some kind of bonus
thing in the middle and A's lit now in
the middle too. So they need to drive
two lamps at the same time with the same
signal would be the easiest way to do
it. So they use one of these transistors
that's a little bit bigger to drive two
of them. This is some kind of like a
sticker was on it.
Oh, just piece of tape. It probably said
works good. Put in supersonic.
Good.
Put in the supersonic.
Um,
it's a stern, so I'd rather just put a
bley in there. But if we don't have find
a ballet, we could put this one in
there. This is our decent pile. I hope
this isn't as boring to you as uh as uh
well, it's not boring to me, so I hope
it's not boring to you at all.
This still has filth on it.
It is a 23.
It actually looks pretty good. This
might be the one.
How bad are those connectors?
Oh, those will clean up. Okay, let's
look at the back. What do you think? is
going to have battery damage.
Look at that nice, beautiful board.
This is probably the one.
Doesn't even have any SCRS missing. This
thing might work fine.
Definitely at the top of the pile,
literally.
Okay. Uh, another stern.
It's just a shame. Oh, by the way, a lot
of people uh remove these from their
game because they don't handle LEDs all
that great. So, it if you put a um you
can put a modern board in that has a
extra resistor designed into the
circuit. Uh so, it makes a a LED bulb
work better. And people are all in on
them leads now. So, they take this old
board out and put the new one in. And
then they let me have this one because
they're suckers. All right. So, this is
a Stern one where they chose to use the
blue.
And look, it's it's different again.
This was what Stern ripping off their
earlier version of it. It's got the
extra chips, but doesn't have the
transistors on the side.
I like that one. That's pretty cool.
Stern.
And if you don't know, it's the same
Stern that's around now. It's the same
guy really. Gary Stern is still involved
with Stern at the moment. I believe he
is. I don't think he's retired yet. And
he and his father uh started um the
company way back in the day
and did video games, too.
Yeah, this one's pretty roached.
Uh, that's not too bad. All right, so
this is the one. I like this one a lot.
We're going to roll with this. It's even
the right part number. Doesn't get any
better than that. I hope it doesn't have
a bunch of chips messed up. So, what I'm
going to do is I'm going to uh clean it
a little bit just by hand just to make
it look a little better. I'm going to
straighten out these transistors so
they're not touching and stuff. Um, and
then I'm going to
resolder the connectors on the back.
Let's see how bad the
the um
solder joints are. So, on the end, yeah,
see there, when you pull off the
connector,
you end up breaking the solder joints
eventually. So, after maybe 30 times
that someone pulled off the connector,
it cracked it. So that whatever that one
is right there
on the end, that's not going to be
touching anymore. So that pin's not
going to work. And it's usually the ones
on the end. Now, I've talked about this
a thousand times. I'm sure you all get
the point by now, but I'm, you know,
this is what I'm going to do next. So,
same thing there. That second one looks
particularly bad. See the little line
around the edge of it? It's it's it's a
physical thing. Look at that one. That
thing looks like it's in a damn cave.
Look at that.
That's horrible. Okay, so I'm going to
clean that up a little bit. Resolder all
of those. I'm going to clean up the
front of the board. And then I'm not
going to test any of them. We're just
going to pop it in this game and see if
everything works. I haven't even
replaced the light bulbs yet, but
that'll be a good start. Look how
beautiful it looks.
Cleaned it up a little bit. Resoldered
the connectors.
Let's see.
Come on, baby.
All right.
All right. Yeah, it's doing some stuff.
So, in the test menu, if you press this
button, you go into a test on Valley.
The very first menu is all the lamps
blinking. Now, I haven't replaced any of
these bulbs yet. So, you can see that
most of them are working. This one's
off. This one's off. Same player shoots
again is off. Um,
number one and number three. It could
just be burnout bulbs, but I want to
show you a few here. This 3000 when lit,
I think is always on. I think that's
just the um I think that's an AC one,
you know, just a general illumination
one. But look at this one. See how it's
dim and then bright? That one screwed
up. And then this one, dim and bright.
And see how it's backwards from what the
other ones are doing. the transistor
that runs that one and the transistor
that runs that one are definitely
screwed up. All right, so the first
thing I'm going to do is I'm going to
swap the bulbs and then uh we'll do it
again and u after we do that we'll make
a list. So I'm just going to take out
every bulb. I always do this anyway and
put uh brand new bulbs in it.
Okay, so I've got all of the blinking
bulbs replaced
the uh computer controlled. We have an
interesting problem where there's
several of them that are coming on at
the wrong time. So, if you like if you
look up here,
they're like going back and forth.
They're not supposed to do that. They're
supposed to come on and off, on and off,
on and off. And so, it's there's so many
of them, it's kind of hard to tell when
they're which ones are supposed to be on
and which ones are supposed to be off.
But, you can kind of tell by the back
box because the backbox isn't doing it.
So if you look,
the backbox lights are blinking and so
you can see which ones of the playfield
are blinking at the same time.
So for instance, this one and this one
are supposed to be on.
So we can go by that. And I'm just going
to make a list of all the ones that that
aren't right and aren't lighting up or
lighting up and it's all screwed up. and
I'm just going to make a big list of it
and uh then we're going to look at the
schematics and see if we can tell by
looking at the schematics if there's one
chip that's causing all of those
problems hopefully. So, all right. So,
here are the schematics for that board
for um supersonic and it's, you know,
each one's different only basically on
what's where each light hooks up and the
software is telling it the code telling
the chips to turn this off, turn this
off, turn this on, turn this on and
these are the lights, right? So, the
software is controlling all of it, of
course. Um, so what I do is I've got
this huge list. Look at all these all
these lamps don't work. They're either
out or they're screwed up and lighting
up at the wrong time and all that. So,
I've got 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16 17 18 19 20 23. I got about 25
of them that don't work.
Got my work cut out for me a little bit
here, folks. So, what I do is I go
through and I look and I try to just
mark the ones that don't work and then
see if there looks like there's a common
reason because it saves you all kinds of
time if you're trying to repair one of
these. And I did find a common reason.
Uh, bonus 1k, bonus 5k, bonus 9k, the
number one top lane, the number two top
lane, jetream, I think that says star
five, I think. Uh, the number one star,
the number one left lane, the bonus 5x,
uh, left and right bumpers. I didn't
even check those. Those are the pop
bumpers. Uh, the side target 3K.
Um, and the shoot again, the ball in
play, the number one player, and the
match.
Every one of those doesn't work. And
every one of those comes from this chip.
So, obviously, this chip screwed up. So,
we need to replace U1 for show. Now
there are others down here but they come
from different places. So some of them
are driven by this chip, some of them
are driven by this chip. So it seems
like that those are probably the SCR
itself is bad. So it'll be either be
shorted or it it um uh will be bad,
right? So I think what I'm going to do
is I'm going to go ahead and replace U1
and then I'm going to check try to test
the SCRs on the bench. I've tried this
before. It's hard to find a bad SCR. it
just they don't I can't ever test them
right. There's a there's a technique to
test them. Um but I always get a bunch
that say they're good and then you put
them in the game and they won't work.
You put a new SCR and it fixes it. So I
h I'm not too good at finding all of the
bad ones. Um
ultimately it just comes down to if
you're down to you've got like two
lights that don't work, you replace
those two SCRs and it fixes them
usually. Um, but I'm going I'm going to
definitely change this chip and then
I'll look with my multimeter and see if
I can find other ones that are messed
up, these SCRs, and swap those out. Um,
and then see if I can get a lot of this
list knocked off.
There was one socket that was obviously
bad, too. So, one of them, um, one of
the top rollovers, um, the socket was
screwed up. So, I got to put a new
socket in it. All right, folks. So, I
put a socket in and replaced U1.
U1 has been replaced. Hopefully that
will fix almost everything in the game.
And then I found one transistor down
here that was shorted. So I have swapped
it and I just took one off a parts
board. It might be bad, too. Probably
not. And then I found three of these
SCRs in the middle
that tested differently. And so I
replaced those three with three off the
parts board. Now they're different
parts. They're in a different case. Uh,
but they're all the same thing.
It's just they use different stuff over
the years.
It's a
106.
It's a 106
MCR 106-1.
and the smaller ones are 2N 5060. The
MCR 1061s they use uh pretty much to um
to run two lamps. So it says that it's a
58529. I wonder if that's what they're
calling
these ones.
Yeah, see it on the center.
58529.
So, it's the same thing. It's just in a
different package. And the the leg
orientation is the same as well. All
right. So, let's pop it back in and see
if that helped any of our issues.
All right. So almost all of them was
fixed by the U1 and the couple
transistors that I changed, but I came
down to I had six left. And so I wrote
down the wire color and I checked the
wiring in the back box. And it's
actually in very nice shape, all of it.
So it's not that it needs repinned or
anything. But we have a problem with
Q35,
Q46,
Q28,
Q24, Q23, and Q21. Now, like I said,
some of those do two lights.
Q21 is um an arrow in the middle that I
miss missed before. And then this one
here, Q46, the left special, it was
working and then it stopped working. So
that's kind of weird,
but
All of those with the exception
of
Q46
are on this one chip.
So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to
hook up the uh logic probe and just
check the output of these lines. I mean,
you know, I've got
five different ones that don't seem to
be working right, and two of them are
ones that I actually already changed the
transistor uh whenever I changed U1. So,
I'm going to check that out. And then
this this one down here is just a random
one. Maybe it's maybe I swapped a bad
one in or something. But, you know, it's
kind of it's just interesting that this
one has five different lights that don't
work on the same chip.
And then this one right next to it.
Every single one of them works. No
problems. So,
um, let me see what I can figure out.
All right. So, if you look at this
board, you know, we decided that this
was a pretty good one, but really the
chips actually have a lot of rust on the
pins. That's the one I was just saying
worked great. So, I've went ahead and
swapped that second one as well with a
good one off of another board. You can
see the the the legs are pretty rusty.
So, you've got to imagine that some of
that's getting inside the chip, too.
So,
with the logic probe, uh, on the gate of
each
SCR, you get a nice strong
coming from the pins, right? But on the
ones that weren't working, it just went
completely different. Completely
different, folks. And they were all
coming from that one. And then this one
down here. Hopefully we don't have one
pin dead on this one for that left uh
special outline.
Uh but it's this transistor. So I've
swapped this transistor again. And we'll
see if that gets any more of them
working.
All right.
So,
we appear to have every single bulb on
this worn out playfield working except
for that one I was just talking about,
Q46, the special one. Everything else is
working. Wait a minute. That top left
one up there, Jetream. All button score
1000 when lit. That one's not working
either. I'll have to look. H, that might
just need a little tweak. Um, and I
don't know about the pop bumper yet. So,
we've got four bulbs here I got to keep
finagling with. We've got the sound
board that we still have to mess with.
We've got to mess with all the
solenoids. We got to mess with all of
the switches, but it's getting late and
I think we're done for the evening. So,
leave your comments below. Let me know
what you think. Oh, I guess I should
just show you the game up and running.
Turn it off.
Turn it back on.
Look. Come on now. What's the problem?
There's something going on. I don't
know.
There's something and then it went off.
I don't know. There's something about
the George.
That must be it. George is back. All
right, folks. So, leave your comments
below. Let me know what you think so
far. I think I'm just going to have to
swap that fourth
um that fourth I see as well. So, we
were joking about how nice that one
looked. I think uh I think at least
three of the the uh decoder chips are
bad, but that's all right. Whatever. So,
they'll be nice and new whenever we're
done. All right. So, uh we'll leave that
for next time, though. I think, you
know, I'm kind of in the mood to get
started on the playfield.
I kind of gota, you know, I keep limping
through these boards. You guys are going
to get bored. So, bored. You'll get
bored. So, I think it's time to, you
know, really
Oh, it's turning off. It's just they're
turning on. Yeah, it's turning off.
Okay. Um,
I think it's time to do the playfield
because I got to get the thing where you
can at least believe that we should be
working on it like
because it looks like we're working on a
something that washed up on the beach,
right? So, I got to get this playfield
looking nicer. If I can get the
playfield looking nice and I can get
this back glass looking nice, somebody's
probably going to want to buy it before
I even get finished with it. So, we'll
see. And we'll save the few light bulbs
that aren't working right and the uh
sound board and the testing the
solenoids and the switches. We'll save
that for finishing touchup. So, uh this
playfield is going to take me a little
bit of a while.
Um,
but you know, we got to get started on
it. It won't be that big of a deal. I
think it's going to look great whenever
we're done. So, if you haven't seen me
do a playfield before,
stay tuned to the next video. Now, if
you would like to see me do a playfield,
I'll put one up here that we repainted a
while back. I hope you enjoyed it. Let
me know what you thought, what you think
about what where we've gotten so far,
and we'll see you on the next one.