Svalbard. Life at the edge of the world.

This part of the journey takes us to the far reaches of the earth, the Svalbard Archipelago. It's the most northern point I've ever been to, and now only 1,300 kilometers separates us from the North Pole. Svalbard is a kingdom of glaciers and lifeless tundra. Even so, people have been living here for many years. What exactly makes some people move to such remote and inhospitable environments? What's it like living here in the Arctic, I wonder? First, I decided to check into my hotel with my folks back home. I know you know how to book hotels, but let me show you some tips to help you save money with the sponsor of this video, Surfshark VPN. Surfshark is a VPN service that swaps the real location of your device with a new one from another country, and why would you want to do that? Hotels use different pricing for different countries, and I used Surfshark to make the website think I was in another country to get better prices. For example, when booking my hotel in Svalbard, the original price was 6,643 Ukrainian hryvnia, which translates to 2,092 Norwegian krona. However, I switched my location from the Ukraine to Norway with Surfshark, and now the price is 1,601 Norwegian krona, saving me 491 krona, which is equivalent to a $55 savings. What else? Safety. Surfshark encrypts your online data when you're using free public Wi-Fi, like in airports and hotels, to secure your personal information when you're traveling. Hackers hate this. Sorry, guys. Use code Svalbard to get 83% off, plus three extra months for free by clicking the link in the description below. Surfshark also offers a 30-day money-back guarantee, so there's no risk to try it out. If you've ever been to a place that is literally at the edge of the earth, I'm sure you'll understand the sorts of emotions I was experiencing in the first few hours after I landed. To find this archipelago on the map, you've pretty much got to go right to the top of it. Svalbard is in the middle of the Arctic Ocean, nestled between Greenland and Frantjosef Land. It's as accessible as the Arctic will ever get, and you can get here by booking a regular flight, either from Oslo or Tromsø. Simply put, no other place in the Arctic is as easy for a tourist to get to as Svalbard. Before we start investigating why tourists like to come here, let's figure out who this land belongs to. Within the geopolitical space, Svalbard is incredibly unique. No country had ownership of the area prior to 1920, and since then, it's been registered as a part of Norway. Nevertheless, more than 50 countries, including the Ukraine, Russia, and even North Korea, are allowed to engage in economic activities here, including developing natural resources. However, presently, only Norway and Russia have settlements here, and the cities of Longyearbyen and Barentsburg. The archipelago has a population of only 3,000. The traveling situation can get a little complicated. Even though Svalbard is considered to be a part of Norway, it's simultaneously considered a visa-free zone, and they stamped my passport when I departed, as if I left the country. Theoretically, you don't need a visa to come here, but in actuality, you'll have to go to Norway first, which does require a visa. There's also conjecture about the actual name of this place. Countries such as Austria, Germany, and the Ukraine consider this land to be Spitsbergen. The Russians used to call it Grument, while the UK, France, and the US and many other countries in the world call it Svalbard. At this point, it's just kind of habit for me to call it Spitsbergen, so don't be surprised if you see other names on the signs. Longyearbyen, or Longyear, as they call it, is the main city on the archipelago. It's the northernmost city in the entire world, populated by roughly 2,500 people, and it's here where most of the Svalbard life occurs. It's not exactly Miami, and it doesn't necessarily look like the ideal spot for your next Christmas vacation, but it's definitely a unique and rather interesting place that calls for a bit of a backstory. We humans love to make any place we inhabit as comfortable as possible, and Longyear is a prime example of that. Because even here, in the inhospitable Arctic climate, people have managed to add color. The city is located at 78 degrees north latitude, and you can tell. Due to the permafrost, pipes are laid above ground. All houses are built on neatly hidden pillars, and avalanche guards are set just above the city. Longyear is indeed situated in the avalanche danger zone, and there have already been a few deadly cases. As for the rest of the town, it looks fairly typical, despite its unique locale. The town has lots of colorful houses, a main drag, the northernmost church, a hospital, a library, a theater, a gym, a school, and a dozen or so hotels, including the Radisson Blu. There's even a university here, which also dons the title of northernmost. It brings together future glacial scientists and Arctic specialists. They have all the equipment they need, and to start their research, they can just take one step outside. And this university is full of students who come from all over the world. Svalbard is tax-free, so everything is much cheaper compared to the mainland. And trust me, I've seen those prices in Norway. And let's not forget about the northernmost airport that services regular commercial flights. This place is all about everything northernmost, so get used to it. The northernmost gas station, northernmost car dealership, and northernmost car wash. What's interesting is that the city is full of cars, even though they only have 14 kilometers of paved roads in the region. Cars are the main form of transport in the summer, and in the winter, everyone swaps them out for snowmobiles. Which makes Longyear kind of similar to Amsterdam, in that everyone uses alternative means of transportation. Except here, people aren't on bikes like they are in Amsterdam, they're on snowmobiles. They even have a special gas station for them. Another tried-and-true form of transport are dog-powered vehicles. There are about a thousand dogs on the island, and they're an even more popular choice of pet than normal because of the ban on cats. And since you can't take pets into buildings, the locals leave them in designated areas, little dog parking spots. Sled dogs are the most common type of dog here, and a larger number of them are huskies. They require continual training. Apparently, you can't keep them in flats, which is why most of the dogs live in kennels, where their owners come to take them out for a walk a few times a day. During the winter, the dogs pull sledges, which get traded for small carts in the summer, so that these blue-eyed cuties stay in shape. It's one of those special moments where both human and dog love what they do. Alright, back to Longyear. Let's try to figure out why on earth this city was built here in the first place. And wouldn't you know it, the answer is actually pretty apparent. It's the coal. You don't even have to dig deep to find it. And it's why, at the beginning of the last century, Norway and the USSR launched their coal mining initiatives here. And just to give you a little tease, we're going to see some USSR mines later. Traces of the past are all around, including deserted mines, wagons, and more. And interestingly, the city has kept a few mining traditions. First, you always take off your shoes when you enter a building. Initially, the practice started as a courtesy so you wouldn't carry coal dust into the room you were entering. But the tradition remains to this day, no matter if you walk into someone's house, hotel, university, or even a museum. The second tradition concerns alcohol. Alcohol is sold in fixed quantities here to this day, because the miners used to drink themselves to death when mining was still a thing here. And this little piece of paper is how they track your purchases. It lets you buy 2 liters of strong alcohol and 24 cans of beer per month. No limit on wine though. As a tourist, you have to show your boarding pass to purchase whiskey, for example. And unfortunately, I've lost mine. Oh well. Another interesting fact about this place is rooted in its geographical location. You cannot give birth here or get buried. There's no maternity ward on the island, and for this reason, it's recommended that pregnant women travel to the mainland about a month before their due. They don't bury people here because the permafrost pushes everything out of the soil. Well, there is one old graveyard here, but the coffins started to get pushed out of the dirt when the permafrost began to melt. Returning to the subject of coal, one mine is still in operation, but there are plans for its closure in a few years. Is it profitable to mine coal in this area? Actually, it has never really been cost-effective. If you can't make money from mining, what do you do to make money? Of course, it's the tourism. People continue to flock to Svalbard from all over the world to witness what is considered to be one of the most pristine areas in the whole of Europe. And it's technically considered Europe since Svalbard belongs to Norway and Norway is in Europe. There isn't a whole lot of greenery, so the scenery may not be for everyone. There aren't any trees. However, the wildlife more than makes up for it. Take the Svalbard reindeer, for example. It's the smallest of its kind. They're not afraid of people, and they feed right next to the city. There are also foxes and arctic foxes, but it's the bird population that thrives here. Terns have practically become the poster child of Svalbard. And aren't they just the cutest? No. Turns out they're actually super aggressive and will attack you kamikaze-style if you're not careful. No idea how I survived this mini Pearl Harbor, but it was terrifying. Okay, so it turns out they actually did get me. Oh well. The last animal I want to tell you about has also affected life in Longyear. And the city has borders that you can't cross without special gear because of this animal. In Svalbard, people share the land with polar bears, which is why you're not allowed to cross these borders without a gun. It can be dangerous out there. All the city borders are marked with these kinds of signs that warn you about the risk of polar bears. The first time I saw a bear here was the day I arrived. Whitey roamed around the other side of the fjord, strolling past the summer houses. Every time bears come close to the city, a helicopter service takes off to scare them away. This is serious, because instances of bear attacks are fairly regular here, and some of these attacks end in tragedy. The last such case took place in 2019 at a camp that is right next to the airport. It was considered to be a safe place because of its close proximity to the airport, but the bear had other ideas. The bear ventured into camp at night and attacked a 38-year-old tourist who died shortly after. The camp is still operational, only now it's surrounded by electric fencing. Ecologists believe that because of global warming and climate change, these animals are forced to look for food close to the human habitat. The local climate has changed. Take this bit of the local fjord as an example. The water used to freeze in the winter, but not anymore. As for the man versus bear conflict, the bear ultimately seems to be the one to suffer defeat. There's a theory that once they try human blood, they will be more likely to attack again. It's more of a rule that the bear would always get killed after any kind of interaction with humans whilst the human might survive. Last year was quite difficult in this regard because due to some kind of coincidence, local police had to unfortunately take action and kill two bears. The first was roaming the streets and kept coming back again and again, so they had to shoot it. And the second bear was actually put asleep so that it could get transported to the outskirts, but it died either from the overdose of meds or most likely simple stress. And each polar bear kill is thoroughly investigated. Basically, self-defense is not a good enough reason to kill one of these bears, and if the court decides that you didn't make enough effort to avoid coming across one, you'll most likely end up with a fine between 2,000 euro and 4,000 euro. In any case, protection is critical, and most locals don't leave their houses without a gun. If you're one of those really observant types, you may have noticed that the guy on the cart that we saw earlier was also carrying a gun because he was beyond the city limits. Women are no exception. You can't enter a building carrying a weapon though. There's usually a safe near the entrance where you have to store your gun or rifle until you leave. And when it comes to gun shopping, there is a huge shop for that. What's interesting is that you can also rent a gun, which you'll need a license for, and I don't have one. The rent only costs 30 euro per day. There are clearly no issues getting weapons and ammo in this city. You don't even really have to go all out, as flare guns are considered to be enough, since they scare the bear and signal for help at the same time. According to official statistics, around 30% of the locals speak Russian, but as I mentioned earlier, this place is very ethnically diverse, and it's mostly contractors who come here. Your average pay would be 3,000 to 4,000 euros per month, and although housing is expensive, this is still a good balance and pay. And since we're on the topic, let's talk about real estate. I was curious to see how people lived here, so I asked Timothy to show me his flat. As is tradition, which we all know about now, I had to trade in my shoes for house slippers when we entered into the multi-family building. Longyear is notoriously limited in regards to new housing, and Timothy's 38-square-meter, one-bedroom flat costs $1,200 a month. It does include utilities, though. And it's an average price. There are some additional perks. Everyone gets a separate locker for skis and other miscellaneous items. At first, I've got to be honest, seeing the harsh conditions the locals live in gave me a not-so-good impression. But a few days in, you kind of get used to things, take notice of the many normal aspects of the city. Students coming home from school, people going for walks with their dogs and exercising too, and kids racing on their bikes. If you can get past the permafrost, polar bears, and a few months of complete darkness, Longyear begins to look like a pretty normal city. Man oh man, do they get amazing sunsets. It really makes me wonder What wonder What do you like to do in your free time around here? There is a swimming pool, a gym, snowmobiles, fishing, and bars. Yes, we finally reached the bars. They are quite developed here, and the locals most certainly like to drink a bottle or two in their spare time. I've decided not to stand out and pay a visit to the northernmost pub in the world. Is it true that people here drink non-stop during the long stretches of darkness? Sports in the morning and drinks in the evening. It's not a joke, people do go hard on drinking. Not everyone, but most do. Svalbard locals do seem to love their drinks, but then again, who wouldn't when you don't see sunlight for four months in a row? I found five bars in this small town, and if you're inclined to think there couldn't be anything special about these small town bars, you'd be wrong, as I was stunned by a few of them. How many types of whiskey do you have? They have this 1893 Armagnac, and 10 grams of it cost 300 euros, whilst the bottle is around 21,000 euros. So, if you ever had any worries that you wouldn't be able to find a good drink here, you can rest assured you will. There are a plethora of options. They also use glacier ice, which according to the bar staff, lasts much longer than standard ice. I've checked it, and I can attest to it. Later on, I met another bartender from the Ukraine. This is Sergei from Kharkiv. What kind of people come to Longyear? All kinds, really. We've had Colin Farrell, for example. All jokes aside, he was staying at our hotel, did drink alcohol, but always asked me for non-alcoholic cocktails, and gave me incredible tips too. Then we also had Robert Plant from Led Zeppelin, which they had a concert in Longyear. Basically, when it comes to the public, it's very comparable to proper starlight places like Dubai. And I've met a NASA engineer recently, but unfortunately he is leaving today. Another thing I need to tell you about is the local beer. We're about a thousand kilometers from the North Pole, and people make beer even here. Let's investigate. Longyear has its own brewery, and it's thanks to this man, Robert Johansson, who has a remarkable past. First, he was a fitness trainer, then he transitioned into the mining business, then he became a pilot, and then finally he launched a brewery business. Alcohol production used to be banned on Svalbard as of 1928, and it took five years and countless calls to the government for Rob to get that changed. So, only five years later, he was finally granted a permit for the brewery. There's even merch to commemorate the permit that was granted to them so they could start making the real polar beer. As you can probably imagine, even when beer making became legal, it still had its difficulties, given how remote they are, and that they're in the middle of a nature reserve. If you ask me, the idea to start our brewery in the Arctic, in a town with a population of 2,500, is downright crazy. But as you can see, even the most outlandish ideas can turn into a reality when the right person has the right vision. There are roughly 10 types of Svalbard beer, including fortified beer called Autopilot, which has a picture of Rob back in his mining days on the label. To sum it up, it's a pretty cool brewery with an equally cool story behind it. Make sure you visit and try some of Rob's beer if you come to Svalbard. There are tours, too, in case you want to do some beer sampling. It is currently 11.30, and it is still not dark out. The next morning, I took a car to check out the area around Longyear. And good news for me, you don't need a gun if you're traveling by car. You just can't get too far away from your vehicle. Steer clear of the bears. This is actually Timothy's car, and the best part was how he gave it to me. Keys are in the glove box. Are you serious? Yes, I am. You don't lock your car? Nobody does here. Why not? We just don't lock cars. Stuff was never a thing here. These days, perhaps a drunken tourist can take your car for a joyride, but they won't steal anything. I decided to do some quick investigative work, and he was right. Two of the three cars I tried were open. Is it true that people don't lock their flats? I have never locked mine, even when I left for holidays. I even have my car open all the time. Even if you steal a TV from my flat, where would you take it? We'll meet anyway because I take care of logistics. This is Svalbard for you. I couldn't skip the northernmost gas station in the world. You can fill up here for half the price compared to the mainland. One of the main reasons I ventured out of town today was to see this famous site. It's basically a giant safe that's cut through the permafrost to store mankind's valuables in the event there's an Armageddon. The safe stores all of the agricultural history of the world that dates as far back as 13,000 years ago. In other words, it's a vault that holds a bunch of plant seeds hidden behind metal doors and 130 meters below the ground. It stores approximately 1 million seeds. And Svalbard is the perfect place for it. First off, it has perpetual permafrost, and it's far from the outside world, so in the event of catastrophic war or some other cataclysm, the seeds will hopefully be safe here. Now, I'd like to take a moment to say a few words pertaining to ecology. To be honest, very few countries in the world would spend much time worrying about sustainability if they were mining coal in the middle of the Arctic. But Norway is the exception, and they are very environmentally conscious. You can't ride four-wheelers in the tundra, and helicopter tours are banned. Instead, they have hybrid ferries and highly technological filters that reduce the coal power station's emissions. I'm from Donbass, Ukraine, so I know better than anyone the kind of smoke you get from a coal power station. So being here and barely noticing the smoke is almost strange to me. The kingdom goes to the extreme in order to protect this pristine area of wild Arctic nature. And in case I forgot to mention it, this place is beautiful, especially when the sun comes out. The Arctic isn't just about the snow, it has colors too. Okay, since we're done with Longyear, let me show you a few other places in the area. To do that, Ivan and I loaded up on a boat called Polar Girl and headed for a famous Falbard glacier. Check out this board, guys. It shows what sea life the ship came across and how many times it happened this season. I'm interested in that top one. It's looking like we may be able to spot a few. I think we might be in luck today. The area is inundated with birds, and I'm guessing you remember my previous failed attempts to meet them. This time, I finally saw my first flock of puffins. These are little, cool-looking birds with big red beaks, and they made an effort to steer clear of our ship. And we saw whales too. The primary mission for Polar Girl on this day I was on board was to pick up students from a glacier where they stayed for five days for research. So wait, those guys were living next to the glacier? That's right. They usually set up a camp and put protection from the bears around, so that's all. What kind of protection is it? Uh-huh. They protect the camp by setting up fireworks across the parameter, and if a bear tries to get in, it touches the fireworks and they start to go off. Turns out this was more of a rescue mission because a bear came to visit the camp last night. Week went pretty well, and we had no polar bear visitors until this night. There was one quite large male bear that was walking into camp around four o'clock or something. Tried to scare it off, but it wasn't so easy to scare off. So we have been up since four, trying to scare off a bear, and then using quite a lot of this scaring ammunition that we use. So we almost used them up. We picked up the students and even saw a few bears from a distance, and all that was left was to get a little closer to them. I see them right ahead. The law states that you can't get within a 300-meter radius of the bear, and you can't cross their path, so we kept our distance. But Mama Bear still had an eye on us, guiding her little ones away from potential danger. We spent a few minutes in awe of the scenery, and then headed back for the boat, while the bear swim team turned back towards the glacier. High five! I am absolutely freezing right now, but watching the bears swim was definitely worth it. And this is the Nordenholdbrenn Glacier, where we have one more important mission to complete. I've seen a good amount of glaciers in my day, but this one has got to be the biggest. Stretching over 25 kilometers. A glacier is not just a pile of ice. It's a habitat to a wide range of animals, including polar bears that hunt here. And the more quickly the earth warms, the more rapidly these glaciers melt, disrupting the natural habitat that many animals rely upon. Directly across from the Nordenholdbrenn Glacier, there is one other fascinating place on the map. Guys, that was the first, but not the last episode about Svalbard. In the next one, we will reach Pyramiden, former Soviet Union ghost town, which is not actually a ghost town anymore. It's a really, really interesting place. So, stay tuned, and I'll see you in the next one.