The Mysterious Video Detector Diode - GE 17t5 TV Repair 8

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome back to Amateur Repair Time. We have been working on this General Electric 17T5 television. There is the set for it. Now, it's sitting on a table. That is a countertop television. And we've actually got it running. Um, we've been going through each section and replacing caps and checking tubes. All of that, and we've actually, and I've got a signal generator, we kind of got it, you know, it's halfway doing its thing, but the problem is the image that we're getting is a negative image. And so I'm leaning, I'm going on the theory that we're so far out of alignment that we need to try to align it now. So I've worked through each, and remember this is amateur repair time, I don't completely know what I'm doing. I've worked on a lot of arcade monitors, but I haven't worked on any tube-driven CRT monitors before. I have worked on CRT monitors, but not analog tube-driven ones. I don't know a better way to, what the better explanation for that is. We are watching the Temptations do their thing on the screen here. You can barely tell. That's the music that you're I guess you're hearing. Like I said, we worked through the whole set with the exception of the audio section. We haven't done that yet because we got the video and we're getting audio, but obviously it's not very loud. Um, but I'd like to see if we, if our problem is the CRT or if it's an alignment issue. Uh, we checked all of the tubes as we went through the RF and the IF. Um, we replaced all of the caps except for the mica caps, but we're to the point now where we're going to have to start checking voltages and, um, seeing what we can do about alignment. So I've never aligned a television set before, and I've got a ton of equipment that I've picked up over the years, just off of lots that I bought. And, uh, we had a, uh, I had a gentleman that was a, uh, repairman that passed away and I bought some of his stuff. So I'm going to look through the equipment that I've got and see if I've got what I need to align this set. Um, there's a bunch of different ways to do it, but well, different equipment you can use to do it. Um, I've got several scopes. I mean, I've got old scopes. I don't think that'll be that useful. That one probably hasn't worked in a long time. I've got a more modern digital one. Um, I've got some other scopes. Maybe I've got something in a little better shape than that that we can work on or something. I've got sweep generators, but I don't know if I've got the right type of sweep generator. I've got RF generators that you can use for audio, you know, for AM radios and things. So yeah, we just need to kind of figure out what I've got and see if I've got We've got the equipment that we need to align this sucker. I think this video is probably going to mainly be trying to put cobble together the equipment that I would need to attempt a television alignment. Can you see that when they're dancing here, if you see their hair is snow white, their hair is snow white, their faces, their jackets on this video, if it was a color TV, they're like a gold lamé. And so you can see on the video, their hair is the biggest giveaway. Their hair is all white, and, um... Yeah, there you go. Ha, ha, ha, ha, ha, ha. It's one of my favorite DVDs. Maybe we'll sit here and watch it together. All right, we got to get back to trying to fix this thing. Okay, so the first step, I think, is I'm going to look around at the equipment that I've got and just see if I see anything that's useful for what we're attempting to do. Now, why would the screen be negative? Well, it could be that there's a short in something. There could be a short. There's a way that the CRT can short to make it do that. I don't think that's what's going on. Um, maybe, but you know, obviously I've got good brightness. It's just everything that's black is white and everything's white is black. Um, or if you just simply overdrive the video, sometimes it'll make it start going negative like that. Basically the video is out of phase instead of like, instead of like one volt being bright and zero volts being black. One volt is black and zero volts is bright or whatever, or vice versa. So there's the, the phase is out on it, um, which could very well be an alignment issue. And I've got it, um, hooked up to the, the video input screws with one of these little babies, a little 75 ohm, they call that. So theoretically I should be getting a good picture, but I don't know. It, it, it could be. I just think it's an alignment issue so I think that's our next step is to try to mess with that a little bit. I'm gonna try to mark everything before I move anything and I've aligned radios um so I kind of understand the concept of it. I've read over the um the instructions a little bit and I think it's possible for me to do it if I've got the right equipment. So I know that I know that whenever I bought out Mr. Bob's... TV, video, I'm sorry, Radio Shack. Uh, this gentleman, a local gentleman had passed away and his son sold me all of his father's tubes and radio equipment and stuff. He did have a sweep generator in there that, um, but I don't know if it's, if it's, uh, the right frequency range that it can do television. So let me see if I can find that first. We'll pull it out and see if that's going to be suitable. And if not, I may have to try to buy one somewhere, but let's see what I've got. Hold the phone. So I was filming all that a while back and I got pretty far ahead on the videos so I wanted to slow down and do some stuff to fill in. So basically I did like eight videos in a row about this thing but I didn't want to run eight videos in a row so what I did was I did some videos repairing some other things little radios and stuff and I've been playing those so that we don't play eight TV videos. For eight weeks, for two months, if people don't like the TV repair, they would get bored. So I've been trying to mix it up. So anyway, all that to say, a lot of time passed since when I recorded that thing you just saw and right now. And when I ran the last video, a couple people brought up a couple good points. So we are going to look at the alignment stuff and all of that. But they pointed out two things that I think need research. One, they said that there was a tube that I checked that had a short in it. So I got to go back and watch that part of the video and see what they're talking about. Apparently, one of the tubes when I was testing it as we went through had a short. So we'll see. So that's one. And then two, someone mentioned the video detector diode. And that makes perfect freaking sense. So I didn't notice that when we were going through the schematics. But if you look on the schematics, I don't know why I just glossed over that. I will know next time, though. If you look on the schematics, where is it? Here it is. We went all through the video IF, and when we did, there's a freaking diode in there. See how it's got a square around it, though? I think it might be hidden in one of the IF cans, you know? They are showing you right here that this is an adjustable cap. Or not cap, but that's a... Yeah, cap. It's an adjustable... Slug right here. There's one here, too And I think this probably means that it's inside of a box. There is a video detector diode now That's a diode. You know is gonna Move you from AC to DC I got that right. I don't know Either way, they're going to use that to filter out some of that RF that we're having problems So it could be that this diode is bad It would absolutely cause exactly what we've got going on. It would overload the image and make everything go negative. And it's a germanium diode, which they're just known for going bad. So I am really high on that damn diode being bad. And I don't know why I didn't notice it. I was working all through the schematics. But I think I just was looking here at resistors. And then I got over here and I was like, oh, there's no resistors. And just moved right through and didn't think about that freaking diode. I think we need to research that first and then see about an alignment. And we can look at the equipment and all of that, too. Maybe we can do all of this in this one video. So that... That tube would probably be the easiest thing to check first. So I'm going to look back at the video and see if I can figure out what they're talking about. Was one of them shorted? Which tube was that? If it was the sync tube or something, then, you know, it would make a lot of sense. So let me go back and see if I can figure out if they're telling the truth about one of them being shorted. Okay, so it was when I was checking the converter tube, which is a very important tube, you know. I mean, we're having problems with the... you know the whole signal so that if the converter tube screwed up that very well could can make it have a lot of the problems we've got. So what happened was I had it in the tester and I couldn't get it to test because it wasn't in the socket very good so I repositioned it in the socket and then this happened. It must work because it's a uh there's a little glow. That's more like it. Probably needed to give it a little more time but let's see. It's shorted. No short. I missed it because I just checked it a second earlier but it wasn't in the socket very well. It did test good on the other on everything else and uh I put it back in the thing but it looks like it's got a short in it. So let's pull that back out and see if it tests shorted again and then we'll try swapping it. All right so I got it back in there. Let's try it one more time. I'll be damned it is shorted. It's got some kind of short going on. Okay well that's cool that's great. A lot of people hate stuff like that. I love stuff like that. I love finding something that's obviously broken. I mean, I don't know what that would do, it being shorted, but that's the oscillator and the converter. Both of those sound important. Okay, it's a 12AT7. Let me go find another one. All right, so I've got a bunch of those. This is a Motorola. See, that's shorted too. If the needle moves, it's shorted, and you do not want grid emission at all. That just, That means you've got problems. So, it's telling me that one's no good either. Candidate number three, also a Motorola. No shorts, no grid emission issues. Side one, that's pretty weak. Side two, also pretty weak. Yeah, that's not a very good one. Number four is an Olympic. My first thoughts are, I don't know, an Olympic. It's not even a name brand, really. No shorts, no gritty mission problems. Well, spoke too soon. Try the shorts again. I don't know, whenever I get multiple ones doing the same thing, I just had this last week whenever we were working on that, um, that radio for Gene, you know, some, I was, I was having a, a couple tubes where every one I checked was giving me the same problems. Let's try removing it, reseating it, just to make sure there's nothing funky going on. I mean, I don't really see how that would give you a false short reading, but maybe. Yeah, see how it's there, and then it's not there, I don't know. Either way, it's testing like crap. All right, let me go get some more of them. All right, so I think this is number five. No shorts, no gritty mission problems. Oh, come on. All right, so we got one side good, but the other side's completely dead or it's not making good contact in the socket. Let me try cleaning the pins. Clean the pins up and I bent them out a little better so they make contact with the socket a little better. Let's see. No shorts, no grid problems. There we go. Side one tests well and two tests well. Okay. All right, so I guess we need to pop it back in and see if that changes anything. Well, I don't have a video signal on it, but I think that might have fixed it because this is completely different than what we were getting before. We had sync problems before and there's no signal on it, but that sure looks like a steady picture to me. All right, so I'll try getting the video, the signal generator on it and see if it changed anything. Okay, I think that fixed our sync problems. Thank Obviously, you can hear the sound. You've probably heard enough of that, right? But it did not fix our inverted video problem. you I'm pretty sure that all should be white dots. very The wave in it, I think I can adjust out on the back of the color bars, but it's inverted. much. I think it should be dark over here and whatever. Yeah. Progress. Okay, so still with the detector diode, though. I think it could very well be that detector diode. Let me see if I can find it. Okay, so this deal here appears to be M5. You can see there is a slug in the middle, and then there are four pins on the outside. One of them is this red line here running over to the tube near it. So that likely would be that right there. Okay. On the top there, you have a black line that's running to one of the other pins. I guess we could count the pins and run up one of them is running to pin six and there's a bunch of other stuff on pin six, unless I'm counting backwards. One's running straight to pin five and then one's running to pin six and there's a bunch of other stuff on pin six. Okay, so that's two. Disorientating, see good enough. That top pin up there is this green disc and it's running to chassis ground, not ground, chassis ground. The disc is running to chassis ground. Might be something else in there, too. I might have to pull a bunch of that out. So there's a cap running to chassis ground. I've got, there's one other connection to 235, and then there's one other connection coming out, going to a coil of some sort. I'm lost. I'm wondering, is that a diode, or is that the coil thing? It's attached to that pin, but it looks like it might be shorting to chassis ground, too. You know, since it's outside of this can, I wouldn't think that it's the diode, but it comes up here to this pin, which is a 2K resistor, is that 22K resistor, 0.047 cap. Let me see if I can figure out what all that might be. Okay, that is not the diode, unfortunately. That would be real easy, but it's not. That's the coil because of where it's going. It goes up here and connects to some other resistors in that 0.047 capacitor. So it is this. That's capacitor C48 that it's connecting to, and then here's the 22k resistor, some other stuff, so no dice there. So apparently that thing actually is in that can, and I kind of do believe that might be the problem, because it's a germanium diode, they go bad all the time, and I think it's inside that can, so I think we're going to have to try to extrapolate that can from the set, which isn't going to be great. um so on this bottom pin we have a capacitor and this orange lead here okay i've got them off there that top one is just a black wire i've got it off it's right in the one next up maybe i've got to be really careful with this you know if we break this this might be hard to figure out exactly what it was maybe i'll snip it up here and then we'll figure out how to put it back later All right, so that coil is still attached to that bottom one. We're just going to leave it like that. I think I can take it out like that. And then the top one had this tape on it, had the other end of this disc on it. So that's where we're at. So I'm going to see if I can unmount it with these two nuts and get it out of there. All right, came out pretty clean. It's a clean machine. Here's our part number. I wonder if we can just track one. And here is what was inside. So it was mounted just like this. Here's our bottom. And then inside it, you've got the slug that was sticking out of the top. You've got a capacitor. You've got another capacitor. And this must be our diode to tape off. All right, so this is another coil, inductor, choke, whatever. And there is our diode. It is a 1N64. I've heard these get leaky. Just don't do their job, and then that's your whole problem. So I am going to order a suitable, modern... Well, not modern, but I'm also going to go with a germanium diode, but just a new one because I kind of want it to have the same properties and everything. So we'll have to wait to get that in the mail, but that is next up. I think that will fix our problem. So it was connected to a pin at the top that the ribbon was connected to somewhere. And then that cap was connected to from there to ground. So if you look on the schematic, if I can find it on the schematic, So internally it's connected to B. One end is connected to the coil and the cap. The other end is connected to a capacitor that goes to the chassis and internally that end is also connected to B-. We've got this is connected to the coil and a capacitor. This end connected ground would have been the ribbon and then the other part was connected to through a cap to the chassis. So I think I'm a big believer in over analyzing it and just figuring it out and make sure you're putting everything back where it goes. You wouldn't think that because I missed that one being shorted, but I got that backwards. The line is the cathode, not the anode. All right, folks, so we are going to go with a 1N34A, which I heard is a pretty good thing to use for it. I don't like that these aren't marked, so I guess they're 1N34As. They tell me they are. Uh, but that supposedly is what it is. Okay, so I'm going to put it in, cut this one out, we'll slide it back in. Okay, easy as that. Very simple. Popped it right in there. All right, now I'm going to put some tape over it like they had, and then slide it back in the can. All right, so it's kind of hard to see it all, but we got the black wire back on the top right one, and it is not shorted anything. You can't see perspective right now because of this angle, but that black wire is on the top right. Okay, the bottom right is the orange wire. it is also not shorted to anything it looks like it is in this but it's not also this capacitor here to the bottom right one the bottom left one all that it had was that coil that goes up to here and it's reattached and then the top left one had this cap here the other leg of that cap and it had that ribbon the ribbon is touching it and nothing else it looks like it's touching other things it's just you know you got a big jumble there but that's how everything is that's just how they did the point to point wiring so i'm going to look back at my previous video just to confirm that i've got that right and that i've got everything hooked up to the right post we've got that new diode in there and we can go from there where is the old one i was going to show you that this sucker is gone hopefully this sucker was leaky let's see if we can test it with a diode tester maybe it'll tell us something okay so i'm using this old meter here and no matter what i put it on the diode test or anything it's basically telling me that the diode's dead i'm not getting any reading any And my meter is working. So I just set it on resistance too, just to see if I could get some kind of resistance reading. like it's, so it wouldn't be leaky It would just be dead that the diode's not working. I can't get any test on it It could be that this old meter is just not good at testing that. I don't know. Let's, another thing I want to do is let's look in this manual at the section that they had on the video detector. diode. I don't know that we read that before so it might be interesting to see what that thing is supposed to do. The video detector. Now, if you didn't watch our previous videos, you missed out on a bunch, but I've been reading through this 1951 practical radio television repair course that I bought at the flea market that once belonged to Mr. W.E. Raines Jr., right? And so I thought hey, it might be kind of cool to read through that and see if I learned anything. So I've been The video detector at the output of the last video amplifier, the video signal is still in its RF form having both positive and negative peaks as shown in figure 7a. So this is what we got going on right where that diode is. The signal must be demodulated so that it will have the form shown in figure 7b before it can be applied to the input of the picture tube. So we needed to have this. Okay so we got something like this going on instead of this. Now if we did not have the I don't have the diode working at all. We'll have to look to see if this signal would pass through if the diode was just completely dead, right? To produce this demodulation, it is necessary to rectify the modulated video IF carrier and filter out the IF components. A linear detector is required for this purpose. A diode is generally used. A typical video detector circuit is shown in figure 8A. The video IF amplifier output signal exists across the final resonant circuit consisting of L1 and the capacity between the plate of the detector tube and ground. sends electrons through a load made up of the internal resistance of the diode detector tube peaking coil L2 and shunt resistor R3 peaking coil L3 and diode load resistor R4 producing across the last two components of pulsating dc voltage so they're running it through a tube Load made up of the internal resistance of the diode detector tube, peaking coil L2, and shunt resistor R3, peaking coil L3, and diode load resistor R4, producing across the last two components a pulsating DC voltage. The cathode to filament capacity of the tube shunts to ground all AC components. Above the video range so that the video detector output voltage contains only the desired AC components and the DC component of the demodulated television signal. The pedestals for the horizontal and vertical sync pulses will now all line up at the same level. The direction of the electron flow through diode load resistor R4 determines whether sync pulses will make output terminal D swing in a positive direction or in a negative direction with respect to the chassis. In the circuit of figure 8A, electrons enter R4 at its grounded end, making that end of the resistor negative with respect to point D. Under this condition, the video detector output voltage, a modulated DC voltage, will vary as shown in figure 9A, with the sync pulse making point D swing more positive, and with the bright areas in the original scene making point D swing in a negative direction from the pedestal level. Since this corresponds to negative modulation as at the transmitter, the modulated DC signal is in this case said to have a negative picture phase. The phase of the picture signal at the output of a diode video detector can be reversed simply by reversing the connections to the diode detector tube as is indicated in figure 8B. This reversal of connections makes electrons flow from the plate of the detector through the load to ground, making the takeoff point from the video amplifier negative with respect to ground. In this case, the video output signal is as shown in figure 9C. Note that bright lines now drive the signal in a positive direction from the pedestal level giving the equivalent of positive modulation while sync pulses drive the signal in a negative direction from the pedestal level. The modulated DC output signal of the video detector is in this case said to have a positive picture phase. The addition of a DC bias voltage to a video frequency TV signal has no effect upon the phase of the signal. For example, if a negative DC voltage Voltage is applied to the signal in figure 9A. Making the entire TV signal negative with respect to the chassis as shown in figure 9B. Pedestal. Oh, I've got that wrong. The voltage is different here. Making the entire TV signal negative with respect to the chassis as shown in figure 9B. We still have the required conditions for negative picture phase. Bright lines swing the signal in a negative direction from the pedestal level. Likewise, adding a positive bias to the signal in figure 9C. May make all parts of it positive as shown in figure 9D, but we still have the equivalent of positive picture phase. At this point, it should be brought out that it is not necessary to use a tube as the detector. A germanium crystal, as shown in figure 10, makes an excellent detector, saves spaces, and eliminates the heater current of one tube. By reversing the connections to the crystal, either a positive or negative picture phase signal can be attained at the detector output. In figure 10, L2 and L3 together. With C2. Form a low-pass filter that removes IF components and filters out IF harmonics. In this case, the load consists entirely of resistor R3, and the video signal across this resistor is applied to the input of the video amplifier. The video amplifier and the TV receiver correspond to the audio amplifier in a broadcast set. The video amplifier drives the picture tube, swinging the bias on the picture tube to give the necessary variations in light intensity along each line of the scan. The signal from the output of the video amplifier may be used to drive the grid or we may hold the grid of the picture tube at a fixed voltage and drive the cathode. It is more usual to drive the grid of the tube just as in an ordinary stage of amplification so we will consider this method here later the cathode drive will be studied. I'm going to read this because it's talking about brightness and darkness. If we assume for the moment that signal level at the output of the video detector is strong enough to excite the picture tube in the receiver which signal in figure 9 would we select? The question can be quickly answered by considering the EG to B grid voltage brilliancy characteristic of a picture tube as shown in figure 11. If we choose a signal with negative picture phase and apply it in such a way that the pedestals line up with point B on the EGB characteristic in figure 11, spot brilliancy will vary as shown by curve N. As you can see, this type of signal is incorrect for bright portions of the scene if the transmitter would be reproduced as dark portions, and the sync pulses would cause white lines to appear on the screen. So if we were to use negative picture phase, so this goes down, right? So if we did that, negative picture phase, it goes up, I don't completely understand it. So if we used negative, bright portions of the scene at the transmitter, Would be produced as dark portions and the sync pulses would cause white lines to appear on the screen. Okay, so yeah, my whole thought is that our phase is upside down. Like instead of negative, instead of sending it positive, we're sending it negative or vice versa. That it's not getting what it wants. Now, because the diode wasn't working. So let's look at our schematic and see if that makes any sense on the schematic. So here is their example, and ours is identical. So we have coming off the cathode here, it connects to this slug, and then also to a cap to the diode. Connects to the slug and also a cap to the diode. Those are in a slightly different place, but pretty similar. And then you've got the diode connected to ground. You've got a coil, you've got a cap, and then a coil. Diode connected to the ground, coil, and a cap, and then a coil. And then you've got a resistor from ground on the other side of that cap, of that coil, which is this. I mean, I'm sure it's just a slightly... More advanced version. This TV's from 53 and this book was from 51. So, yeah, that's where we're at. So, it says, by reversing the connections to the crystal, either a positive or negative picture phase signal can be obtained at the detector output. So, if that were reversed, we would get bright for dark, dark for bright. So, this is supposed to be ground and this is supposed to be the voltage. So, if this just didn't work... Maybe we just get everything in on that. I don't know. I don't understand how it's getting reversed, but obviously if there's a diode there, it's supposed to work and I can't test it as working. So I believe we've got it all hooked up properly. The only thing left is to turn it back on and see what happens. Okay. I don't have a signal on it yet, but let's see if she comes back up. See if anything looks different. Now, since it was on the video signal, you would think that without a video signal, that would be irrelevant, but I don't know. Let's see if we're still Could have munched one of those capacitors and screwed it up or something. All right, we're still working. The top looks better, doesn't it? I kind of adjusted that out before. I don't know. I mean, I know I keep saying this, but that looks a lot better to me. I don't know. It just looks right. What do you think? Does that look better to you? All right, let me hook up the signal generator. Okay, so I didn't do anything. I just hooked up. This is turned off. I just hooked up this to the input, and I'm getting snow, some sort of snow. Look at that. All right, what do you think? Is it gonna work? Let's try it. I think we did it. Maybe. Looks a little better, don't it? Well, maybe. It could be that this, well, there you go. I was about to say it could be this generator doesn't work very good on black and white, but apparently. Okay, so I turned on a different one. Crosshatch looks pretty good to me. The linearity is a little off, but I think there's an adjustment for that on the back. There's the dots in the hatch. I think we got it, folks. Center cross. So this is a contrast thing isn't it? Do I even have a contrast? I think there's a contrast adjustment somewhere. I think that one's focus and this one's channel. This one is I think vertical hold and this one might be horizontal position maybe. Um okay well just the dots you know we got the it doesn't like that with the contrast but I guess yeah I don't know. I mean I mean, I guess that's it. But if you do the crosshatch or the crosshatch and the dots, the dot hatch. It looks pretty good. Well, whoever told me that it was the video detector, they sure knew what they were talking about. They were right on the money, honey. Okay, so let's, oh, let's turn up the volume, see if we've got our sound. Yep, nice and clear. All I've got is a one kilohertz and three kilohertz. That's for your dogs. All right, so I think we fixed that, and I guess we don't really have to do the audio, but I'm going to anyway. So let me see if I can figure out how to put a signal on it. You know, we were going to align it, but it looks pretty good to me. I don't know. I think if we watch some video on it, and if the video looks all right, I probably won't align it, because I don't want to tinker with a bunch of stuff where I don't know what I'm doing. Now, there is some linearity issues. The boxes are wider on the left than they are on the right, but I think there's controls for that. All right, now where were we? Yeah, when you hook something up to the antenna feed, it gives you snow. That's pretty wild. Let's do the VCR first. I guess that's the VCR. So this is our brightness. This is contrast. Eh, we're still not great, are we? Or is that as good as it gets? I mean, maybe that's as good as they look on a 50s TV. I don't think so, I think so, though. It could be by setup still, too. Okay let's try the DVD player. And remember we haven't done the audio section yet. So this one is focused so you can get it you know. But we're getting interference here. Maybe it doesn't like my cable or my little box I'm using. I mean this should be black you would think. So if I make that black that's about where we need to be. Yeah maybe it still does need a line. Yeah! It got a lot of interference in it. We tested the tube and it seemed fairly strong That's all we've got on volume. All right, let me try another one of those little splitter things just to make sure that one doesn't have problems. I actually, at our store, you know, we do a lot of Nintendos and stuff like that, and those little RF switches, a lot of times we'll put snow and problems in the picture like this. All right, so I tried a different connector. It's about the same, but then I remember there's a fine tuning, so I fine-tuned the video a little bit better, and it looks a lot better. But it cut the volume down, so I think that, you know, just the way the volume lays out on the spectrum, you got to align that right, so it probably does need aligned, especially since we just replaced all the capacitors in it. But the picture looks pretty good, really. I mean, I wouldn't expect too much better from a 1953 TV, I mean I don't know. And again, if I'm going to align the audio, that would probably line up the video a little better, too. And I think that's probably Probably focused about as good as it gets. Well, I'm very happy with that. Okay, so we still need to do the audio. We need to align it. We need to work on the case a little bit, and we need to fix this knob that I messed up. I broke the little Bakelite plate, so I need to mount that better, but we got to work in TV. If I fine-tune it out of the video, it will make the volume go up. Well, that's not bad there, really, but yeah, so whenever I fine-tune it, Apparently, it did not change the audio. Alright, so I think that's a pretty good stopping point. Next time we'll work on the audio maybe and see if we can get the volume up. And if we can't, we'll attempt to align it. We still have to look through all of my equipment and see if I've got all the stuff I need to align it. But I think we made some serious progress. What do you think? I like it. We'll see you on the next video.