Will This 1953 GE 17t5 TV Power Up? - Vertical Deflection - Repair Pt. 4

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome back to Amateur Repair Time. We have been working on this General Electric 17T5 television. Now the case is laying there on the floor. It's a tabletop one, but it's huge. It's 21 inches square. And so we've been working through it. Now I have a history of working on CRTs, but I do not, mainly for arcade games, but I do not have a history of working on tube-based televisions. This is a new thing for me. So I've done some tube radios, but I haven't done any TVs. This is the first one I've done. So we are slowly working through it. Now I have went through and I've got rid of some stuff and put in some caps and done some things and replaced some other caps over here and a few over here and some down there, but I'm working through it systematically, going through the schematics. And I've also been following a practical radio television course. Now I bought this at the flea market a while back, just for giggles, and it belonged to a gentleman named W.E. Rains Jr., who must have paid for it at some point. And it was like a mail order thing that you could get from the National Radio Institute. And it was written by John Ryder, the guy that made the technical sheets. So it's kind of cool. I've been reading through it in each section. And I've been doing the television systematically by section so that I can kind of learn a little bit and then also know that I've covered everything, right? So the sections as I see them and as I've been going through them are the power supply, all the checks or stuff I've already done. So the power supply has the low voltage, which is like the B, they call it low voltage, as opposed to high voltage. It's the B plus. And then there's a secondary voltage here. And then the series string of tubes. And there's actually two of them, two parallel series of strings, series strings of tubes. We turned the sucker on in video number two with everything disconnected. And we did have our voltages here, but they were too high because we didn't have any load on it. And our series strings did not light up. So we got probably a couple open filaments somewhere. We have not found them yet. So we did that, figured that out, and then we moved over into the horizontal. So just my knowledge of televisions, basically the power supply and then the horizontal is also kind of the power supply on a electromagnetic set. Now we learned last time that on an electrostatic set, apparently that is not the case. The horizontal and the vertical are very similar on an electrostatic set, according to our document here. But we worked through the horizontal. Our 6AL5 horizontal phase discriminator tube was a little weak, but the other one seemed fine. Well, we had a shorted horizontal output tube. It had a short in it. So we put a nice, good testing one at least in there. And we got up here to the flyback, tested what we could. We couldn't test all of the secondary, just the way the thing was in the case. But we tested what we could. We've been replacing resistors as we go, if they're out of spec, and we've been replacing all of the paper capacitors and the electrolytic capacitors. We have not replaced the mica capacitors, and I broke one, but I've ordered it, should have it back in pretty soon. So that's about as far as we've got. So the sections as I see of them are, you've got the power supply, you got the horizontal. I guess you could call this a different section around the flyback because it's basically the high voltage, but we did it last time. And then when you've got the vertical deflection here, you've got the video amp here, you've got the audio amp here, and then you've got the antenna over here. So we're kind of doing the power supply part first. I'm basically doing the parts that will keep it from working at all first, is how I'm seeing it in my head. So power supply, horizontal, high voltage, and now we're going to do vertical. So we're up to the vertical section. So we'll look at it real quick and then we'll see what the book has to say about that. So we've got a 6L7GT here. Oh, this is actually the sync section. Maybe we'll do it while we're at it. We'll probably skip it for now. We might come back and do it if we got time at the end of the video. So we start here, vertical blanking and vertical multiplier. Okay. And that's where your hold control is, your height control, and your vertical linearity control. And then they also call this second one, which is a 12AU7, the vertical multiplier, and also the vertical amp. Look how they are showing the filament. They're actually showing three taps on the filament. It's interesting. I believe that is because you can run this 12AU7 as a 12 volt or a six volt, depending on how it's wired up. And then we run into a little transformer here, and then we're off to the yoke. So it's actually a pretty simple circuit, it looks like, but we've got a lot of stuff to test and we'll see what the book has to say about it. Okay. So this TV is from 1953. This is a study course from 1951. I thought it had something to do with John Ryder, but this actually says J.E. Smith. I may have got that screwed up, whatever. We'll figure that out some other time, but anyway. Okay. So we're going to learn about the vertical. Now, a lot of this will probably go over your head if you're not a TV guy. A lot of it's going over my head too. I know, like I said, I've worked on a lot of arcade monitors, so I know a little bit about this, but I haven't worked on any tube-based televisions. I have CRTs I've worked on. I don't know what, I guess, analog tube powered, vacuum tube powered, not counting the CRT sets is what I'm talking about. Fifties and sixties stuff, forties, fifties, sixties. Magnetic sweep circuits for vertical deflection. Now there are electrostatic sets too, but this is an electromagnetic set because it has a yoke. The wave produced in figure 23 has the right form, but it must be amplified to furnish the fairly high current needed to deflect the electron beam. So 23, here's figure 23. A power amplifier, much like the output stage of a sound receiver, is used to produce this amplification. A typical circuit is shown in figure 24. It says a typical vertical deflection sweep amplifier. Here's the transformer we were just looking at, and here is the vertical deflection coil. I believe wasn't that labeled sync amp, and we were just saying that's the actual one that we were saying can be hooked up to 6 volt or 12 volt. The vertical deflection coils, L3 and L4, are not high inductances because there's practically no iron in their core, only that provided by a bundle of iron wire that is wound around the deflection assembly. Common inductance values for these coils are around 50 millihenries. At 60 cycles, this inductance has a reactance of only about 20 ohms. In fact, the resistance of one of the coils may easily be three or four times its reactance. Notice that the screen grid and the plates of the pentode power tube, VT1, are tied together. Screen grid and plate. This lowers the plate resistance of the tube enough to permit it to be matched to the low impedance coils by a transformer having a reasonable turns ratio. So that's what I'm talking about. All of that flies right over my head. I would have to know a lot more about the theory of all of that to understand exactly why that is. Let's run through the operation of the circuit in figure 24 briefly. Condenser C1 and resistor R1 are the basic wave shaping parts. So R1, I believe they're showing us, can be adjusted. And C1. Peaking resistor R2 produces the trapezoidal wave shape from what would otherwise be a sawtooth wave. This circuit is operated by a discharge tube which may be a part of the sweep oscillator. The signal is applied to the grid of the power output tube through coupling condenser C2 and appears across R3. Resistor R5 is a linearity control. Adjusting it changes the bias on VT1 and thus makes it possible to find the most linear part of the characteristic of the tube. Since varying the bias will change the gain of this stage and therefore change the height of the picture, the height control R1 must be readjusted whenever R5 is adjusted until the best compromise between a perfectly linear sweep and the desired picture height is secured. So R1 is height and R5 is linearity. Now let's see on ours if we've got anything similar to that. So showing up here is the height control. Now remember this says vertical multi and then the uh okay yeah we're over here. Height control. So that is on our diagram R1 and then they said this cap and that are basically creating it blah blah and then it goes through here bam so looking back at ours that bam so it's basically the same thing and they're showing connected down here is the linearity which is pretty much exactly how ours is there are a couple other resistors thrown in but they're just showing you a simple one and then it goes into the transformer and into the two yoke lines. During the sweep portion of the cycle the current through the deflection coils L3 and L4 steadily increase in a linear matter just as it should. When the end of the sweep period is reached however and the voltage suddenly changes to produce the retrace portion of the cycle we do not get the normal retrace shape because the deflection coils have a tendency to self-oscillate under the shock of the sudden voltage change. There is considerable disturbed capacity in the circuits and in the deflection coils. This capacity forms a resonant circuit with the inductance of the deflection coils in the secondary. Instead of going to great trouble to avoid this oscillation it is permitted to exist during the retrace so the retrace may be half a sine wave in shape rather than linear with respect to time. As shown in figure 24b the retrace may follow the dotted line instead of the straight line from the end of one scanning sweep to the beginning of the next. This doesn't matter because we must have linearity only during the actual sweep. It is perfectly all right for there to be distortions in the shape of the retrace as long as the distortions repeat themselves exactly so that each line will be of the same length and are completely wiped out before the beginning of the next sweep. To meet those requirements the coils are made with inductance and capacity values such that a half cycle of the oscillation will be completed within the desired retrace time. The oscillation is then forced to die out before the next sweep by the resistive loading in the circuit. There are three forms of loading here. One, the resistance within the coils provides a low Q. Two, the coils are shunted by resistors R6 and R7 which further load them and control oscillations. And three, the low plate resistance of the tube appears across the coils through transformer T1 and also tends to load them. Thus although we use the proper trapezoidal voltage the current is not exactly a sawtooth. However it is linear during the sweep and the retrace variations are controlled so that they do no harm. The circuit in figure 24 is the basic for most electromagnetic vertical sweeps. There is one important exception however which we shall now describe. In a few instances a true pentode connection has been used for the output in the vertical sweep chain of an electromagnetic set. The basic circuit is shown in figure 25. Is that what we've got? No that is not what we've got. Well I'm looking. Hold on a second. No we've got more with the other one. The most important difference between this circuit and that in figure 24 is the fact that here the screen grid is brought back to a separate voltage supply so that a true pentode action is obtained. This connection leads to several basic differences in operation. To begin with we now have the extremely high plate resistance of the pentode tube in series with a relatively small load reflected into the primary circuit by transformer T1. This makes the effective inductance in the plate circuit of VT1 so small that the circuit is basically resistive as shown in figure 26. Since the circuit appears to be resistive it is possible to produce a sawtooth current in the plate circuit by feeding the grid of VT1 with a sawtooth voltage just as we would in an electrostatic system. Since the plate resistance of the tube no longer acts to damp oscillations the resistor R5 is connected across the primary of T1 to serve this purpose. To stabilize the circuit further the screen grid voltage is supplied through resistor R4. Condenser C3 is a bypass for the screen. Okay so it looks like they have a resistor heading across the transformer primary and we do not. So I don't believe that has anything to do with ours. Ours team seemed to match that before. So fairly simple circuit really as we just saw on the schematics as well. So I'm going to look through it piece by piece, check out what I can and see what I can find. Track down all the capacitors, swap them, and check all of the resistors. Now how am I finding all of these capacitors? Well I'm just very slowly going through the schematic piece by piece. There's an easier way to do it. You can just go through, pull out a capacitor that you visually see and then read it and then replace it. But I'm trying to actually work through the schematic bit by bit by bit and then find it. So if it tells me on the schematic for instance if we skip the sink part there that we were talking about. Let's just start here. R80 and C90. So R80. I have a Sam's photo fact here for this chassis and if you flip through it actually shows you where everything is. So for instance here's a bunch of the resistors. Let's see if R80 is on this one. There are like three pages full of resistors. There's so many of them. Let's see R79 but no R80. So let's see if R80 is on this one. So if we look at this it's a bottom view of the chassis and it says R80 is right here. Now this isn't good enough quality that that tells you for sure what you're looking at but it says hey it's somewhere right here about the middle of this wafer thing here. And if we go back and we look R80 is a 47k. So you know it's going to be green. I got to do the little thing the mnemonic in my head. No yellow and purple. So it's gonna be yellow purple and orange. Is that the multiplier? And they're pointing to this area here. So somewhere in here we might see something like that. Like that one right there might be it. Yellow purple orange. Is that what we're looking at? I think so. Yellow violet orange. Okay so yeah so I just go through and check them and if it's out of spec I'm swapping it. I got plenty of resistors and when I get to the capacitor I swap them but like I said with the exception of the micas usually those are fine and they're harder to replace and they're expensive. I've got one ordered for the one that I broke down here and I'm just carefully going through and checking everything that I can and I will do that and if I run into anything interesting I'll come back. Okay so I've been going through. I finally got this capacitor all the way out. So it had three different capacitors in it and like I said this is like video three or four but the we had a problem where the the B minus had some loose ends here and this domino cap or domino yeah capacitor here was supposed to be hooked to the B plus and then onto one of these pins and it was just kind of hanging because it was all tied to this cap but I've got it all routed now. I double triple checked everything and ran it over to the B plus. This cap here the of course it's disconnected it's out of circuit now but we're using the negative as the tie-off point still it's still present on the top of the chassis for cosmetic reasons which brings me to another point. A lot of people and you know I like old things a lot of people hate that you're taking out the old caps because they like the look of the old caps. I like that but I kind of like the way it looks once you recap it too. To me it looks kind of cool seeing that someone has went through and put new caps all over the place you know like to me that just looks pretty cool. I don't have them all done yet obviously I'm going through the schematics so the new ones that are flown in to me it just looks cool that someone has went through and done that because it kind of unclutters it and it makes it where you can see the chassis a little more and you can kind of tell a little better what's going on. Whenever all the original caps are in there they're so large you can't really completely tell what's going on but once you remove some of them and put smaller ones you know which is just how things are you can kind of see like obviously I replaced this resistor because it was out of spec. I replaced both of these resistors because they were both out of spec. I replaced this resistor because it was out of spec and you know you can see the new caps that I'm flying in and I usually j-hook them I cut them real close and then I wrap the lead around and then put the new one in tight and do it like that. These are interesting caps I showed this in a previous video a lot of these have been cut and re-soldered I don't know if I can see one yeah maybe you can tell on this one see how that is kind of flown in there like that. A lot of these ones like this the tropicalized ones have been either replaced or they're re-soldered I don't know and like look at this even this paper this wax one here so I don't know if somebody recapped this thing way back that's possible I think. Some of them as I take out it looks like maybe they this is the second cap but these are really cool it's I look these up and tropicalized means that they're made in a tropical climate because I guess the idea is you make them there and then test them and the humidity won't affect them as much as the idea behind it I believe and they're made in Japan which is pretty cool you know this is of course an American television set so I don't know if these were original or if they had been replaced later let's look in the let's see if we can tell anything in the schematic list yeah so here's a list of all the capacitors let's see if it says tropicalized general parts number general electric part number aerovox part number central lab part number cornell dubley eerie and sprague so that's none of these so yeah I think all of these may be replacements says thord test or horror test nah that'd be something completely different I'm gonna get shadow banned again uh yeah so jcp tnn s let's see what the model number of the other one is oh they all say that don't they yeah so I don't see that on here anywhere I don't see anything saying tropicalized capacitors I think somebody may have replaced all of those so it may have been recapped in the 60s or something um but whatever and I've been there's been several resistors like that very first one I showed you was bad none of them have been way off but uh 20 you know and the thing the thing clearly says they're all supposed to be 10 um and I've got a bunch of new old stock old ones you can you can tell carbon ones and whenever I test them they're off like one percent they're pretty close so I even the the 10 ones I don't know if originally they were 10 they were probably a lot tighter than that originally um so the most egregious one has been off of the vertical so this vertical amp I have had more burnt up stuff around than anything else in the set we haven't tested any all the tubes yet we tested the ones in horizontal I wonder if that thing's going to be bad because I think we've got one or two that have an open filament like I mentioned now if it burned up usually it wouldn't have burned up the filament but you get my point uh so yeah it's this one that comes into the plates um of the 12AU7 it was supposed to be 100k it was almost 300k so you know that one wasn't 20 off that one was 200 percent um and this one is was supposed to be a but the one installed is a 5600 so and it measured 6100 so I mean it looks original there was also a area here that I couldn't figure out but it's because it's got a couplet in it so there's two caps and two resistors in there I prefer to call them couplets it's a couplet um so the couplet but I was able to test the resistance at least and it was fine so I guess we'll roll with that resistance was good and uh there was a cap there's a cap that right here that was drawn in the circuit as being down here so again I couldn't tell if somebody had moved it there's another there's another weird setup this cap right here so this is a uh 1600 is that right yeah 1600 so it goes from this little line the blue line here you're seeing to um the red line which is the b plus so that's not on the schematic so that blue line is this line right here so we've got this resistor we're aware of we've got this capacitor that we're aware of and then it runs into a capacitor and then into a resistor this is the resistor here and then it runs into those two plates I was just talking about and then it runs into a cap there is not a resistor there is not another resistor attached there anywhere so I don't know um we got that we got some kind of problem it may be this line I don't know I looked it all up I was following it followed it found every single resistor but this this one here is an extra one so it's another that's not on the schematics at all so I don't know what the they're doing there there it may be drawn in somewhere else but it pretty clearly shows just that one this blue line circuit here and it's pretty easy to follow because the blue lead runs to this pin on this uh tube runs down to here hits a uh domino hits a 0.1 then rolls over to here hits a couple things you can you can follow it very easily that shouldn't be there but it's obviously factory um and it plays some kind of role but I don't know what it is now it's worth mentioning too that this is not the exact schematic basically let me see I don't know if I printed that one sheet let me see this is for about six different sets and then there is a list so here's the sets that it's for now this is a 17 t5 this says 17 c105 c107 c108 c109 t1 2t t2 t3 but it also says c103 104 so it's c103 104 105 107 108 109 and t1 t2 t3 well there is a another document that says what the difference is between it and one more set here it is I got it okay general electric models 17 t4 t5 which is what we've got t6 cu2 and c114 are identical to the group of models covered in photo fact folder 6 and set 141 with the following exceptions so this is 6 141 um I don't have that page printed to prove it but you can tell that that's it though because of right here 103 104 105 107 108 109 112 114 t1 2 t2 t3 t4 t5 t6 so that's the expanded list right so here's our changes let's see if they mention anything about adding that the brightness and focus control was changed to part number the horizontal and vertical hold control was changed to part number the contrast volume control and on off switch was changed to part number and then it was changed to another baby if it was a different set the focus coil was changed to part number the audio output transformer was changed to part number this that there the tuner was changed to part number radix 45 models t5 uses a five and a quarter speaker models these use a 12 inch speaker during late production of models t5 the triode connections to v17 were interchanged so let's find these 117 v17 is that what we were just looking at i don't think it is uh v15 v17 yep so v17 we did ours and it lined up wasn't any problems with that so it doesn't say anything about that resistor but whatever so i'm gonna keep working through it and hopefully i will eventually find a 1600 ohm resistor somewhere in the schematics um so i've got a few more to do and worked all through here where was the page i was just doing come on you sucker and basically i've worked up to the little transformer which i guess is that um maybe we'll figure that out um i've got to find c5 i think that's the one up on the top yeah c5 is the one on the top so we got to mess with that and on the on the previous video i disconnected or the first video the power supply video i disconnected a bunch of stuff off of the b plus because i wanted to make sure that the set didn't power up whenever i hadn't replaced anything and that's all stuff right here around this so i'll reconnect that and work that area and find it on the schematics we'll do that next and then i don't know i kind of want to try powering the very slowly but the the like i said last time we didn't get any of the tubes on so we've got some kind of issue with that so without without fixing that i don't know that it'll do as much good but we can try it um i guess i could maybe it would be better to just start going through all the tubes and see if i could find a tube that's that's bad but let me let me get a little further through this vertical stuff here um and hook that b plus back up and then we'll check through some tubes maybe that'll maybe that'll make more sense all right i got my replacement mica capacitor in you know you can't tell in these pictures it looks like everything's touching each other but they're not because it's uh it's a it's a perspective what do you call it depth of perception problem okay uh 22 pf 500 volt old school mica capacitors don't you love it is there anything more beautiful than that these were like 60 70 cents each i bought a whole pack of them um so that if i need any in the future i'll have them i guess i'll slowly build a collection of vintage mica capacitors okay so on one of the previous videos i disconnected some stuff up here when we did the power supply so i've fixed it all back it is basically this section here it's the 235 coming up to the top of the chassis and then connecting to a resistor and a capacitor and uh heading on so we've got this resistor under the chassis and then a red wire snakes up and gets to that and then it's how it connects to the yoke so that's what we've got here now there's also a resistor right here that was a little fried so i've replaced it that is the one meg resistor on the brightness control and the same 235 connects to it and then they're using this terminal strip to connect it to a blue wire that runs down to the brightness control on the front of the television i haven't found that resistor in that cap yet but the search continues all right now the next one we need to do is c5 look at this bad boy 30 micro farad 450 dc working volts so that's a big papa and i want to point this out to look max temperature 85 degrees celsius if you put a 85 degree celsius cap in anything you're working on all of the people on youtube have a freaking conniption fit although the original ones often were 85 degrees i mean i understand the 105s are better and i usually try to get 105s but if it comes down to it and i have to put an 85 in somewhere don't give me come on now look at it come on now come on come on people come on i wonder if it has a date code it sure does wait is that a date code nope i don't think that is a date code i guess that might be but you know obviously it's not 2009 it would have been 1953 at some point i have seen 53 date codes on some of the other stuff okay so i gotta figure out where to put this because the wires came up top and it mounted in one of those clamps but you know if i'm putting a little electrolytic it doesn't mount in the clamp and i don't want it just hanging there so i'd like to find somewhere down underneath to point it to put it point to point to hold it in place okay so that cap that had stored up top but the wires that went to it the the b minus connection was right here this cap is disconnected but we're still using the tie point for b minus because convenient it was already hooked there but the tie point was there well this this board here the entire back rail is that b minus so that big metal rail that you see back there all of that is b minus so every one of those connections on the back is b minus so i put the cap here from the the red wire that went to it snaked up through here and then came out the bottom and connected to this pin so we have it uh connected from there the cap from there to b minus which is um exactly what they had okay it's a 30 micro farad and all i couldn't even get a 33 because that's to be 350 working volts i just didn't have anything in the closest thing i could get was a 39 it's a little high but we'll keep our eye on it and see if it does anything crazy it appears to be well i don't know what they're using it for but we'll see if that goes too high and then similar situation here the blue wire the wire here from what is that even coming from it comes off the 235 and it comes over here and does a bunch of stuff okay so anyway that that wire connects to all kinds of stuff um it also had a filter cap on it which was a 40 i had to put a 47 in and where it was mounted was um it was part of this capacitor so i was able to take the wire loose there were two wires running to it one from here to there and one from there to there so i was taking one able to take one from there to there and snake it around to here just cutting that completely out of circuit and then the capacitor goes from there to b minus so i was able to put it here which is the same point and that's b minus there's a yellow wire actually connected to b minus okay so we got that now there is a resistor there i gotta figure out where to put this stuff here is the ones that kind of are weird so that line there somewhere has a resistor tied to it um i'm going to guess it's that one see what color is it uh no so it looks like it's a nine um 190 i think 190 ohm so i got to figure out what in the world that connects to we're checking we're checking it's got to be here somewhere i don't know i'll figure it out basically it's connected from that cap that we just disconnected it's somewhere on that line to this tube here so i need to figure out what tube that is what pin that is and then i can figure out what it connects so it is this 39k i was reading it wrong i thought it was brown white brown it was orange white orange um and so it connects to pin six of uh the six au6 the first sound if amp and then it connects over to that line that we're talking about so that line comes from here to here over to here and then to here so i connected the resistor from there to the pin of the tube before it was just simply going from there to there but we gotta get rid of this cap we've actually i believe gotten rid of all of the electrolytics except for this one wire that's left so let's figure out what that is um we've still got some paper ones and we've still got a big bumblebee here that's scary as hell but wouldn't it be fun to power it up with that still in there um but i think that's it except for that one i believe i'm looking around i think um that's in a different section though that has nothing to with what we're doing but while i'm at it you know um i think i'll look and see what that is and if it's something i mean it looks like it runs here but if it's something easy to go ahead and jumper or and replace we'll do it all right folks i didn't swap that cap yet it's in the audio section or the uh the audio the video section i'm not that worried about it for now and um i'm kind of ready to try to see if our b plus is in line yet the problem we've got though is if the tubes if there's a if one of the filaments is broken and the strings still aren't lighting up they're not going to be working so there won't be much of a load on the b plus again but let's see what we get so i've got the tv turned on i hate to sit here in front of it in case one of those few remaining bumblebees blows up so we got our voltage all the way down okay we've got it on amperage this is our b plus yes i had the tv turned off so basically we're looking to see if our amps jumps at all our b plus is at 100 volts we're only feeding 30 volts to the tv b plus is at 145 amperage is coming up just barely okay so that's like maybe 100 milliamps we're at 60 volts b plus is 163 b plus is 195 amperage is about half an amp 400 millivolts or 400 milliamps we're only at 70 volts oh we have tubes we got one glowing at least which means at least half of the string is working okay well i guess we'll do it with the lights out so we're at 189 you know i'm not sure how many amps this tube this set should even run what is our magic number 235 235 do i hear the audio amp i think i hear the high voltage okay so we're right at one amp we're running at 109 volts or so crt doesn't appear to be doing anything we do have some tubes working the crt actually has net glow the audio amp is working okay let me uh see if there's an adjustment on the back for screen or something i think this is brightness but on these i don't know if they've got a brightness and a screen all right i'm gonna try the old turn it off and see if it collapses trick nope i don't think we've got high voltage i think that's what's going on so we're gonna have to break out the high voltage probe it does picture quality and that one's the tuner and we got nothing for crt action yet i don't know if this means anything but we've got the hot and the damper tube are both glowing but i don't see anything out of the whatever that last one is what is what was that again so we've got the high voltage rectifier isn't doing anything um and it gets its filament voltage off of the flyback so it works a little different so that could be an issue even that tube could be bad if that tube was bad everything else would work that tube just uh wouldn't work when i assume you wouldn't have any high voltage um of course we can test that and everything but i do not see any kind of filament glow on it and that was the one too where i wasn't able to check the 1.2 ohm resistor there just because it's all buried down in that cage i also wasn't able to check the 470k resistance of the the anode wire for the crt so we might have something going on there and it could be the flyback as well i don't know but that's coming up well i think we at least got to the point that we can turn the thing on and uh we're getting that one tube's a little uh glowy that's up in the audio section i believe um or the rf section turn it off um and now it does drain out my voltage whenever we did it before where we had the uh b plus unhooked that voltage just stayed high because of all of the caps uh so we're at least seeing signs of life where the b plus is where it's supposed to be now or it's going to be a little bit high because uh we didn't have it quite up to 120 volts and the uh we're getting all of our um series string lighting up um everything's powering up it's just we're not to the point yet that we're getting high voltage and we're getting uh of course we haven't done anything to do with the image processing or the sound but it does sound like it does appear that the sound amp's working too so i think that's a good place to stop for today that's a little bit of the vertical uh deflection circuit next time we'll uh work through maybe the uh the video if section and uh also i'll look at that high voltage rectifier tube we'll test it i didn't test any of the tubes in the vertical section yet either yet you know um so i need to go through those but you know baby steps baby steps baby steps so i like i like the progress we're seeing so far i'm not worried about the high voltage not being there we can get that going no problem well there may be a problem but i don't think there will be a problem i'm not worried about that and um i'm very happy with the results so far it would have been nice to have a nice raster on the picture but it wasn't meant to be this video maybe next leave your comments below and i will see you on the next video