Sabre by John Deere needs work! Brakes Belt Keepers Deck Repair & some Mods Finishing it up!

Hey guys, how you doing? It's Henry. I'm over the wall! Welcome to the continuation of part three of my John Deere Sabre tractor that I got for free! Free! That's right, free. From my friend, Nick from Bellport. As you know, we put an engine in here and got this baby running. However, it still has a lot of ---- that I need to fix. Probably the most important, it needs a front keeper. Keeps the belt on the drive pulley of the double step pulley in the front. If you release the brake too fast, that belt will come right off the drive pulley and you can't go anywhere. That part was missing when I got this. The part costs about $20 on eBay. But I remember that I've had a few of those. Ha ha! I went to go look in my shed and it was right there. Convenient. I also got a piece of sheet metal from something, which I'm going to use to repair the hole in the deck. Then I've got the brakes that I got to check out. And if you notice the hood, it doesn't really close because this hood has what's called a plenum. Because this is a fuel pump operated tractor, I had to convert it Gravity fed, because this is the only engine I had that wasn't capable of doing a fuel pump. So as you can see, the battery's down there, but it has room for a gas tank, which I stuck between the engine and the frame of the dash. And it sits here nice and snugly, where you can add gas, and the flywheel grill does not even scrape this. This is a perfect location for my makeshift fuel tank. However, because the fuel tank is here, It gets in the way of the plenum so I'm gonna get a multi-tool and just grind this all the way out like this so this whole side is gonski still will work like a plenum because this becomes part of that and it isolates the air which I don't even think you need so I'm gonna do that then we're gonna put the keepers on which I have to crawl on the ground which is wet check out the Got the brakes and fixed the hole in my deck. I'm gonna use my new Jorgensen multi-tool. That was interesting. So the mounting bolts for that bracket actually is the two front engine mounting bolts. It was difficult. We got those keepers on there now. I'm pretty satisfied with that. It was a pain to do, though. Now we're going to address this rust hole. It's the only rust hole on the whole deck, which is good. I didn't really look in there, but honestly, who cares about in there? So, yeah, I'm just going to. Self-tap a plate over that and paint it black. This is a tin isolator for a Briggs engine. I'm banging it flat and then trying to curve it so that it goes right there. Okay, as you saw, it looks pretty good. You don't even notice it. Fixed. And you saw I put some ATF into this tire because this one seems to leak every couple of days. Put some ATF in there, see how that goes. And as you remember, I converted this tractor from a fuel pump operated delivery system to gravity feed because I have a gas tank in there. As a result, I have pulled out the fuel line that leads from the front to the back, but this still has one of those big gas tanks in it. Well, you know, those big gas tanks are worth quite a bit of money on eBay, probably $40 to $80 depending. So I'm going to take that gas tank out and keep it and sell it on ebay that's worth money you guys didn't know gas tanks are worth money on ebay They always sell because why? Because people have bad gas tanks and they crack and they leak, so they buy new ones. But new ones cost like a hundred something dollars from the factory, so they buy the used ones on eBay from me. What also sells on eBay? Flywheels for tractors, single cylinder, v-twins, whatever. Flywheels are worth 50 to 100 dollars. Now you know. There we go. Got the gas tank out of there. Brushed it off a little bit, gonna take some pictures of it. Probably sell this for 50 to 80 bucks. Everything's in good shape, nozzle sticks out well. Has a gas cap, no leaks. All right well because of time lapse we did all that really quickly but in reality it took about two and a half hours. Got the front drive pulley keeper on there. That was the biggest pain in the butt because I had to remove the engine mounting bolts. Fixed the plenum on the hood. Added ATF to the front left wheel so it won't leak anymore. Took the gas tank out of here because it's worth money. Fixed the rust hole with sheet metal and silk tappers on there. Painted it black. Looks great. And the final thing we have to do now is to address the brakes. So let's figure out if I push on the brake pedal, does the rod move to move the caliper? Now I can't see it, so I'm going to put the camera there to see if it moves. So there's the brakes right there. I'm just going to set this there and try not to move. I'm going to push down on the brake pedal, see if the caliper moves or do you see a rod moving? Did anything move? So I look back at the video and yes, it looks like it does work properly. When you push down on the brake pedal, it pushes the rod, the rod moves this curved bar that pushes down on a piston or two things, pushes down on something that pushes two pistons, that pushes in, pushes the brake pad to touch the rotor and that's how it stops. So the middle bolt You just have to tighten that and see if it pushes in and you get brakes. If not, then the pistons are probably frozen inside and I have to take the whole thing off. But I'm just going to turn that middle screw clockwise 180 degrees, tightening it up and see if the brakes work. It rained yesterday. You don't want to get gonorrhea. You could also test and see if that bellkeeper thing worked right. Actually, I don't even know if this will start. I haven't started it since I fixed it. Battery sucks. bolt is tight enough on the starter motor. okay you know i know that because when i was turning it i saw sparks right there. which means it's not a good contact but there's enough juice. so i think that was it. the minute i released the brake pedal it wants to stall. what did i do differently because it wasn't doing that before? i'd have to bypass the magneto. give me a minute. before i do You can simply just test the brakes by putting the brake pedal parking brake on as if you're stepping on it and push it and see if it moves. There's no resistance whatsoever. I need to turn that nut some more. You're a nut. So it's easy. Magneto's here, right? Black wire coming down from it. This is the magneto kill. This wire goes into the wiring loom which goes through safety switches, okay? That's the problem. Now, we'll pull the harness out of the ignition switch, pull the ignition switch out, look on the bottom of this, right? Find the M. The M is this one. Bottom left says M, right there. This one right here, which corresponds to this one. Bottom left goes in like this, which means it's this one right here, which is the white wire? That's weird. So the kill is the white wire that's unusual. That's very strange. That's great. So I'm just going to cut this white wire and attach it to that black wire and there you go magneto is killed. So it's strange it is white because look magneto wire goes into the harness right the middle hole coming out of the middle hole on the other side of this harness is a white So, you can trace this white wire. All the way up. and it's supposed to go directly to that switch right but it doesn't it goes that way down into a harness and that's why if a safety switch goes off or goes bad or water gets rid of it which probably happened because it rained the other night this is going into a safety switch which screws it all up so i'm just going to cut this white wire i'm not afraid i know what i'm doing there strip that wire right Now I'm going to connect this magneto directly to this wire in the switch. I'm going to cut it. No, Henry, don't cut it. And I'm just going to put these together right here. It's out. Oh, that's much more slack. There. Now we connect this and it will not shut off unless I make it shut off. So when I lift the brake pedal, it should not shut off because I've bypassed it. So now it should not shut off when I lift the pedal. It'll be out of gas. all right well we bypassed the magneto but now the brakes still don't work Thanks for watching! Thanks for watching! caliper the reason why it wasn't working was because this uneven bar on purpose when you pull it it pushes these two pistons in here out there's a brake pad in this rectangle pistons push the brake pad out and touches the rotor that's how it stops these two pistons are seized in these holes so i'm gonna oil them and bang these two in bang these two out bang them back in bang them out so that these pistons move easily inside now it's super clean much better i did it because i need to take pictures got this it was just a roller no engine hole in the deck For the past three or four days, we made this into a full-fledged lawn tractor. It starts, it runs, drives, and mows, and mows backwards. As a matter of fact, you don't even have to sit on this for it to be running, because we bypassed the solenoid and the magneto. Wiped it down a little bit, fixed the deck, threw an engine in here, fixed the hood, put a gas tank in it, took the old gas tank out, fixed the brakes. Man, that's great. A little bit more work that I wanted to put into something like this. I'm not afraid of hard work. Hope you guys enjoyed the video. Remember to like, share, and subscribe so I can continue to bring you getting a carcass of crap for free and then maybe selling this for 500 bucks. That's right, to the right nut, 500 bucks. I'll take as low as 350. Have a great day. We'll see you guys next time on Mowers and Blowers. See you guys next time on Mowers and Blowers.