How to Tie PERFECT Nocking Points | Moveable and Permanent

In this video I'm going to show you two different knocking points that every archer should know. An adjustable version to speed up the tuning process and a permanent option that won't move once you've found your ideal knocking point. I've already recorded a version of this video but I was using black serving with black knock tying thread or black serving to tie the knocking points and it was very difficult to actually see what I was doing. So I bought some fluorescent yellow 3D serving, which I'll talk to you about in a second as to why I'm choosing this, to tie knocking points on a black serving. That way you'll be able to clearly see the two different versions of these knocking points that I'm going to show you. I believe tying knocking points on are far superior than using the clamp on brass ones for a couple of different reasons. The main reason is that the brass knocking points themselves will actually tear up your tab face much quicker than tied on served on knocking points. Plus the brass knocking points when you add them in the center of the string actually stiffens up the arrow a little bit and so it changes your tune. I find that you get a little bit better performance when you're using a tied on version of knocking points, especially on the high end. The brass knocking points are very convenient because you can move them and clamp them down and it's, you know, relatively easy to use and a lot of shops actually talk about them and use them. However, tying on your own knocking points is really really simple and there's two different versions. Like I said, I'm going to show you how to tie on a movable version that you can actually tune up and down so it can aid in the tuning process to speed it up and to make it less painful because there's nothing worse than tying on a knocking point in the wrong place and then having to cut it off and retie it again. So having a movable version allows you to actually spin them up and down the serving as if it's a thread, like a nut on a thread, and so moving them up and down by spinning them on the actual center serving speeds up the process dramatically. And then once you find the ideal place to actually have the knocking points, then you cut one off at a time and tie on the permanent version that won't move no matter what. And so I'm going to show you both versions in this video. I'll start with the movable version. I will tie it on as if I am tying it on my actual string and then I will cut them off one by one and tie on the permanent version so you can see exactly what I mean by that on keeping your knocking points exactly where they need to be after the tuning process is done. So first let me talk about the actual serving that I'm going to be using today and why I'm choosing this. What I'm using here is BCY 3D string material and it comes in many many different colors. I will have links down in the description below and I'll put a card at the top up there too as well to a link for 3D serving material. I choose this for a few different reasons even though BCY offers not tying thread or not tying serving. That stuff is made out of nylon, at least the version that I have in the cabinet behind me is made out of nylon, and when you go to actually burn the ends it can melt the entire serving or the knocking point off especially if you're not careful or not comfortable with using, you know, a lighter to actually burn the ends of the serving. Between that and plus it's also very very thick meaning the knock tying thread is very very thick so it makes your knocking points really big and bulky and that's the main reason as to why the brass ones are not ideal is because they're so chunky that they tear up your tab face so the same thing goes for tie-down versions. The thinner the smaller and the lower profile you can make them to almost blend in seamlessly with the string that would be ideal the better. So that's why I choose to use BCY 3D material because it's very very small and it's a little more malleable where you can actually kind of flatten it a little bit and it doesn't stick up and doesn't bulk up a lot and it gives you enough gripping power onto the string to where it's not going to slide up and down the string but it has enough grip to where you can move it especially if you're wanting to tie on the movable version. There's like a happy medium there and I wouldn't recommend using the same material as your center serving personally. A lot of people, especially shooting fingers, not string walkers but recurve shooters, will use Halo center serving. It's very slick and very tough and durable and they use it for a reason because it cleans up the release even more because it's so slick. But if you tie that same material on top of it, in my opinion and in my experience, it can sometimes dramatically just slip without notice or you have to tie it so tight that you actually start separating the center serving itself which is a problem. However, if you're a string walker and you're shooting barebow, you can't use Halo because it's too slick. At least if you're crawling down the string at all, in my opinion, I would never use Halo on a barebow because I've had my crawl slip too many times as I go to lift up the bow and draw it back. So I use something like a poly grip or somewhere in that neighborhood, maybe a 62XS is another option from BCY. They offer a little bit more grip than the Halo and so if you use the same center serving to tie on those knocking points on that more grippy material, it's not going to move at all and so you have no option really for a movable version. If you tie them light enough and not tight enough, they will then slip up and down the string unexpectedly as well. So you kind of have to have a happy medium and a balance there and that's why I recommend the BCY 3D material. One spool will last you forever and it's very reasonable and affordable and that link down in the description below is an affiliate link. Helps support the channel and allows me to produce these videos and keep them free for you to enjoy. So if you wouldn't mind, please click that link before you shop there. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to reposition the camera, my good main camera, so you can actually see what I'm talking about here and then we'll start tying on the two different versions of knocking points. Some of the other materials that you'll need in today's video besides the serving is a bow square, your arrow with the knock on that you're actually going to be shooting, and some sort of a razor blade, a knife, or an ulfa knife, something like that, that you can use to cut off the serving. This isn't required. You can also use a lighter as well. That is something else that will be required to use and if you want to make your permanent knocking points really, really permanent, I would also recommend either some vein glue or some super glue and I'll show you how to use that at the end of the video. I am going to start with the actual serving itself and I'm going to cut a chunk of the serving off. This is brand new so I got to get the actual knot out of the way that they tie into this when they, you know, give you this to open up for the first time. When you pull off serving you want a good amount. I would say a good 18 inches plus maybe 45 centimeters or more. The more you got the better in general but a good, you know, a good length of it will really do you well because once you start tying these things on if you use too little material you'll notice it's really difficult to actually tie the knots as you get towards the end of actually serving your string. So here is my center serving from here to here. I'm just going to tie on a knocking point and we're going to start with the top knocking point. So on this side of the string over here or this side of your screen, this is the top portion of my bow. This is my bottom portion of my bow so we're going to pretend this is the top, this is the bottom. If I were to take my bow square and put it on the string to kind of simulate trying to tie on my knocking point for the first time, I'm going to tie the top knocking point at zero just because I just want to start it there. So it doesn't really matter where it is in this video, I just want to show you how to use the bow square to tie your knocking point on or at least how to reference it. So what I will do is I will start with the serving and I start roughly in the middle point of that piece that we cut off and come from the underside of the string like so and I'm going to tie a single overhead knot. Before I do that let me reposition the camera slightly there. So I'm starting at zero, I'm going to do just a single overhand knot where I cross the ends and just tie a basic granny knot essentially and then as I'm pulling this tight I'm locating I'm locating this at the zero mark. I'm hoping it's the same over here because I'm looking at the zero mark on this side and then I give it a relatively firm pull to actually cinch this knot down. Once I get to that point I can remove the bow square and get it out of the way and then from here this is the bottom portion of the knock. Now everything I do from here forward I will be tying upwards from there because this is the top knocking point. I want my ends to be away from the knock and not tied and singed at the actual knock location. So that's why I tie the first knot here and plus that's where I wanted to start was at zero and so now what I'm going to is I tied that knot on the top side up here so now I'm going to tie the next knot down below and this one is different it's not a single overhead it's a double overhand knot so it's a double granny knot so just do two loops like that and then I go to pull it tight here just above where that other one was where the string was on the other side pull it tight and now I'm going to do the same thing on the other side now the upper side do two overhand knots or a double overhand knot rather so there's one there's two and now as you see when I go to pull this tight you'll see that it's tightening up from the top side right up against where the other knot was and I'm pulling that tight again like so. So all I do is I go back and forth two a double on top a double on bottom double on top double on bottom and I alternate and I keep doing that all the way up until my knocking point is big enough. Big enough for you is going to really be determined by experience. The tighter you tie these the less length you want because if you tie them really tight and really long you're not going to be able to spin it up and down the actual serving I'll show you that here in a second but you'll get the feel for it over time as you tie a bunch of knocking points how tight to tie it and how many knots back and forth to do. I'm going to do six on each side just because that's easy and I'll show you that here in a second but first let's talk about why I'm doing a double overhand on both sides. If we do another one and I'm going to show you up close again here in a second so I do a one and two tie it on this bottom side you can see it's coming right up against the last knock or the last knot rather do another double on the top and so as I pull that tight if you look very closely you'll see that the knots are making a full complete loop all the way around the actual serving itself which supports the string the center serving all the way like 360 degrees around the actual serving itself roughly two double overhand knots one on top one on bottom make a complete circle around the actual serving if you just do a single on the top a single on the bottom it gives them too much option that knot to actually if it's in a circle like this it'll move from this position slightly this way or this way right and so those knots can actually kind of move and then because of that there's no stability in the actual system and it's easy to move and fall completely apart so if you do a double on top and a double on bottom that eliminates that issue completely and it grips the string enough with enough holding force that these things are semi-permanent they're still movable and they won't come off but if you don't do the double on top and a double on bottom it's just going to be an issue so so far we have three on top and two on bottom so I'm going to continue another double on the bottom that's three on bottom another double on top four on top four on bottom five on top one two three four five six I must have miscounted one there because I would say that I've got six on top six on bottom but now what I'm doing is you just saw I did a double overhand there this is going to be my last official knot on top again pulling that nice and tight and then I'm going to do on the same side of the string a single so you saw that I was doing a double on top a double on bottom and alternating back and forth that keeps the knots stacking vertically as you're going on the string and it doesn't bulk up on one side but to end it I do a double on whatever side and then do another single on that same side so I did my last double on top I'm just going to do a single overhand or a granny knot on top cinch that down and now there's two options from here and this top one I'm going to show you option one and then the bottom one I'll show you option two option one is you take your knife and you cut a little pigtail off that leaves maybe I don't know just over an eighth of an inch about two millimeters or so I'll show you the pigtail here in a second see that tiny little pigtail there and then do the same thing on the other side okay so you'll see I have two pigtails there I put the serving aside and now I'm going to take my lighter and I'm going to burn the ends and melt them against the other knot what that's going to do is as these ends melt they will actually grow in size and so then they're less likely to be pulled through the knot itself so what I like to do is I like to burn them and then press them flat so that flares them even bigger and it sticks the molten material to more of the actual knocking point itself and so it can be helpful to wet your thumb or wet your finger so that way you don't get burned it's like you know squeezing out a candle you want you know if you moisten your fingers you want to go to squeeze it it doesn't burn same kind of thing here just be careful this is something I've done forever so just literally moistening that thumb just a little bit is enough so you'll see I kind of put my hand here to stabilize everything and then I'm going to light the lighter and I'm going to melt the actual serving and I'm going to try to do it from this side and then I'll use my index finger to put it out so you'll see it just melted just a little bit and then I smooshed it flat with my finger and so now you've got a little bit of a bulky knot there on the top I don't know if you can see it it's a little bit bulky but it's enough to where it's not going to be an issue and it's not going to tear up your tab because the material is softer than brass plus you're not going to be using this knocking point for very long so that's my top one tied in place and you saw that I started from where I wanted it and tied it alternating back and forth until I had enough so this is about six that's I think more than enough and then I burned the end at the top and cinched it down with my thumb or my finger to or you know smooshed it down so it won't come apart so from here I will take another length off about the same length and you can use your olfa knife to actually cut it off or a you know a razor blade or something or you can actually use the lighter and quick melt the edge of it and it just comes apart because you know I melted it with the lighter itself so if you don't have a knife you don't really need one you can just use the lighter for that and that's the second option of actually ending the serving or cutting it off and I'll show you that once I get to the end but for now what you need next is to take your arrow and you're going to put it on the string and you're going to butt it all the way up against that knocking point there the top knocking point and so now I'm going to take my serving again coming from the underside and I'm going to do a single overhand granny knot and as I pull this tight you'll see that I'm trying to make sure that it's right up against the knock itself I personally like to have my knocking points actually support the arrow I don't want any play in the knocking point itself where the knock can shift up and down this is for olympic style recurve and it's really important to note that in my opinion I would say don't have any play up and down in the knock for recurve but for barebow if you're doing any string walking if you have them touching the knock it will push the knock off the string and then you'll dry fire your bow ask me how I know I've done that many times and it sucks and I thought I was breaking knocks turns out because knocking points are touching the arrow itself or the knock it just pushes the arrow off the string and then you just end up dry firing your bow and you don't even realize that the arrow comes off the string until it's too late so uh you know as far as how much play to give there on barebow a good millimeter of space or so up to an eighth of an inch somewhere in that range you can actually pull back your bow and look at the string and see is the knock being supported by the two knocking points when there's that gap or is there still the ability for it to actually move up and down at your deepest crawl if there's still ability to move it up and down at your deepest crawl and you can slide it up and down the string you may have too much of a gap there between your knocking points and so you'll have to kind of check that out and play with the two different options tighter versus looser until you see that the arrow just won't come off the string without some prompting when you're at full draw with your barebow and your deepest crawl okay so but let's pretend here we're tying on our recurve knocking point and so I'm going to touch the actual knock and support it so there's no wiggle up and down of the knocking point or the knock itself so I just did my single knot it's on the top side here of the string so now that that's there I can take the arrow and set it aside and do the same thing on the bottom one two so a double overhand now I'm coming from the bottom side and you'll see that the knot is is forming on this side the lower section of where the actual first knot was tied because as I'm cinching it down it butts up against that and keeps it in place without building up the material on the top side because you don't want to close the gap unnecessarily you want to build from where you first tied it down so the top you start in the above section of the knock and work upwards and then the bottom you start in the bottom side of the knock and work downwards so I just did my first one and I'll do the same thing here what I like to do is I like to make sure whatever I do on the top I do on the bottom that way I've got even amounts of knots and even amounts of mass on the above and below section of the arrow itself so that way just inducing less error into the system and trying to keep things a little bit more consistent let me do one more on the bottom and then finish on the top again last double on top all right so I did a double on top now I'm going to do that single on top as well and now my preferred option of actually cutting off the serving is to just use a lighter and you'll see that I will use my other hand and kind of pull some of the serving off just one side at a time and try to burn it roughly at the same distance that I cut this side off at I like to this personally because I don't know if you noticed but I did as I was sawing through the serving itself because that ulfa knife's a little dull it was starting to untie that last knot and you don't want that the tighter it can be that last bit the less that looseness is going to translate throughout the entire knot bundle and so your knocking point will last much longer so if I just pull a little section off here and quick melt it off get that out of the way do the same here you'll see that there's still a tail and it's still ready to be burnished and burned all the way but it started to actually ball up already and it didn't have that knot starting to come undone so I'm going to try to do it from this side because maybe you'll get a better vantage point compared to the other version and same thing I'm going to melt it and then smush it flat bring these together and then just like that now you'll see this one's a little bit flatter but maybe a bit bigger compared to that one it's not sticking out as far it's not you know such a high profile but the actual diameter is bigger around so now it's all one complete piece and it's not going to shift or move and it is not going to come undone because that's really the biggest problem with these movable knocking points is it's just a simple series of knots and that can cause them to come undone and move but now as I take my arrow put it back on the string there's no play up and down at all but you can still rotate the string here because I have proper knock fitment if you're interested in learning how to make sure you have proper knock fitment I will have links down in the description below and a card at the top so you can check that video out in case you haven't seen it yet but this is ideal doesn't move up and down but I can rotate the string and the arrow has some movement and some flexibility but only in the ways that I want it to now let's pretend I need to move my knocking point after I shot a few arrows and saw my bear shaft was hitting let's pretend my bear shaft hit too low so I need to move my knocking points down to move my bear shafts up and so what I will do we'll pretend there's no arrow in there and I know I need to move my knocking point down but I'm not sure how much to move it down so what I will do is I'll use this top knocking point and start to move it down and use the gap here in between the knocking points as my reference to see how much I'm moving it down basically what I'm going to do is I'm going to spin this knocking point up or down you know either this direction or this direction and it will walk up and down on its own because this serving is put on in a cylindrical rotational fashion stacks them up and up and because it does that it acts like a thread so as I spin the knocking point it's going to actually grab onto the center serving and walk its way up or down depending on the direction I turn it that's why I start with one and I pay attention to it and I'm going to try spinning it down by rotating it towards me and I'm going to pay attention to this gap and see if this gap shrinks or grows bigger and then we'll see if I'm actually spinning it the correct direction the first time you go to move it sometimes they might stick on and I had to use my right hand my dominant hand to actually break them free but now that it's broke free as I spin this knocking point this direction you'll see this gap is shrinking as that gap is shrinking you notice now my knocking point is moving down so I just moved it down a good amount like that that was a huge movement but now I don't have enough space for my arrow and I will take the other one the bottom one and spin it the same direction and you'll see that my gap is growing back again and let's say okay I moved it way too much so now you can see I have play on the arrow so I will leave that top one up or the top of the knock up against the upper one spin this lower one until it's now supporting the bottom side of the knock and I can sit here and see if there's any sort of wiggle room there to see if it still has a gap I can't move it up and down but I can still rotate the string independent of the arrow or rotate the arrow independent of the string show it so it shows me that I'm not smashing the arrow with too much force it's just supporting it really quick if you don't know how to tune and set up your bow I'm going to recommend this book here it's called tuning for performance it's a book I wrote about how to tune and set up your olympic style recurve I take you through this process of bear shaft tuning to actually show you how to adjust your knocking point or your rest to make your bear shafts fly ideal and so if you haven't checked that book out yet I will have links down in the description below and a card at the top as well free to check out it's available on my website jakecominsky.com currently so now let's pretend that I shot some more bear shafts and they went in the group so that means my knocking point is exactly where I need it to be but we need to replace it because it's movable as you saw I could rotate it so in theory as I shoot this as my fingers are rolling off the string it may be rolling or spinning these knocking points so what you'll do is you're going to cut one of them off and I'm just going to start with the bottom one it really doesn't matter which one you start with you just have to start to cut it off and remove it and you'll see I'm taking my ulfa knife and I'm keeping it parallel to the string parallel to the center I'm not coming down at an angle if I do I'll cut the center serving so I'm just wanting to saw off the knots but I'm also keeping it here and limiting the upward motion of it so I don't cut myself number one but also so I don't cut and nick that upper knocking point that's already perfect so now that I sawed most of the way through those knots you'll see I can peel off most of it and then get the rest of that knot out of the way and then you'll take another length of serving this version the permanent version you're actually going to serve so you're going to want to start with a decent amount I would almost start with 60 centimeters or 24 inches worth of material it's uh better to be longer because as you get to the end you really need the ability to have enough of a pigtail to pull through without uh you know running too short because when you back serve you need enough leverage to pull it out and tighten it and cinch it down properly so I'm just gonna use my lighter get a good chunk of it out and start tying on my knocking point when we start this knocking point the permanent version we start with the same process a single overhand knot the difference here is that the movable version we tied on exactly where we wanted it and then built it up from there this permanent version is a little more complicated than some of the other permanent versions out there but what this one has is an advantage is that it is actually going to be permanent and will not shift no matter what kind of pressure or load you put on the actual knocking point itself the other versions don't take the critical step of crushing and squishing the knocking point to build it up so it's far more solid they usually skip that step so you'll notice that when I go to tie on my first knot I'm not using my arrow as my reference point anymore I'm not putting it on the string and starting from here I'm actually going to start kind of in the center of the arrow so a little bit further up so what I do first is I will do my single overhand knot and you'll notice here that I have one shorter pigtail and one really long pigtail once you get the hang of this you'll figure out that you need a longer side on the side that you're going to serve so meaning if I tie my knot here like this and this is not the location I'm going to tie it in but let's just pretend that's where I'm starting the short end is not the end that I'm wrapping with the long end is the end that I'm wrapping with so I will eventually wrap this down the string not like this but you'll see that this is the end I want to wrap down now when I'm doing that if you pay attention to the original knot the end that I'm going to wrap is the end that is sticking out long and it continues on that same side of the string so the overhand knot ended on the top side here and this long section comes off this direction and this is the side that I'm going to continue wrapping around when this is cinched down really firmly if I were to take the long section and back you know wrap it you'll see that it bunches up very oddly there and it doesn't look nearly as neat and as clean because it goes back the other direction as compared to just continuing the direction of the actual knot wrap itself so the advanced level is to tie the knot itself offset on one side of the string you could actually start with a much longer piece of 3d and then tie it in the center just like we did on this movable version and then look at it and make sure you're wrapping the direction that the string is coming off of I hope this makes sense this is just a very small detail that does make a big difference in the end is to the quality of the end knocking point doesn't really affect the permanence of the actual knocking point but it makes things a little bit easier cleaner and it looks a whole lot better too is I'm going to start up much higher than where I actually need it so you'll see that the gap here from my first knot to the bottom of my top knocking point is very small why I'm doing it this way is because once I'm done building my actual knocking point down as I'm serving it down the string I'm going to take my bow square and I'm going to shift this thing and squish it down the string building up a really solid platform for the knock to actually press against this will prevent it from shifting over time and it makes it far more solid and it supports the knock far better this is just a far superior way of doing this so it's a little bit complicated because how far up from where I actually want it should I tie it that varies a lot depending on the firmness of the cinching the tightness of you wrapping the actual serving the thickness of the serving that you're using to tie the knocking points your underlying serving itself and a lot of other factors too so it's really hard for me to make a recommendation you'll get the feel of it over time you just got to kind of go through it and and learn the feel of it and how tight you're tying things how many knots you're making and so on and all of those factors affect how much it'll squish down and so it takes a little trial and error to figure that out you'll get the hang of it over time so I did a single knot on top I'm also going to do a single knot on bottom very different compared to the other one as you can tell pulling that tight and then now my long section is on this side and my short section is on this side doesn't really matter all that you want to see is that as I tied this tight you'll see that the serving comes off of the string in a natural direction basically I want to just make sure that I'm serving in the direction that the string is naturally heading so the long tail here is coming off of this side so I'm going to naturally wrap it this way which keeps that nice and tidy here the short leg we need to now put down and actually tuck it along the string itself like this and then take the long end or whatever end you're going to choose to use to naturally wrap around and just start to wrap on top of this other piece and so what I'm going to do is I'm I'm holding the string here so it stays straight down and I've got one loop two loops and you'll see that I'm kind of going back and forth to keep tension here if you let this go all of the tension that you've built up into the system there as you're wrapping around will go away things will shift and it'll be a big headache but you'll see that as I'm keeping the tension my knots on top are not spinning unraveling the actual looping automatically that's because I cinched my knots down tight enough to keep them at least gripped enough so they don't wrap around automatically keeping this tail down I'm now going to wrap again this is my fourth wrap fifth sixth seventh eighth doesn't matter how many you do I like to do eight get this out of the way then I'm going to serve four more and back serve for five it's just what I always have done I do the same on the bottom and the top so that way my center or my knocking points are the same length so I just did eight I got that short pigtail out of the way one two three four so I did four more wraps past where I took this little pigtail out now this is the complicated part this is the back serving part and that's why you need a longer pigtail so if I keep tension here on this and then I use three fingers or so to kind of pinch and hold it together and then I'm going to continue wrapping the string the same direction so I've been coming around the bottom and over the top away from me around the bottom towards me over the top away from me that's the direction I've been spinning this as I'm serving it and so I'm going to continue the same thing holding tension here continue under the bottom over the top but what's different is I'm not we're going to wrap down anymore I'm going to wrap inside of this loop we've created so when I go over the top like this I'm going to hold an anchor with my index finger and then wrap more on the inside with my thumb so I've got one two three four five okay so I've got five wraps still keeping tension here and I'm going to transfer over to my other hand and take this loop that is on the inside and put it towards the top and so what I'm going to do is now I'm going to wrap over here and continue wrapping over the top and once it pinches that extra pigtail down like that so now it's pinched I can let go of that extra pigtail and continue wrapping so that's one wrap two wraps and you'll see as I'm wrapping here it's unwrapping here this is called back serving and you just go until you're out of extra loops and you'll see I'm keeping tension like so take the other pigtail that we now wrapped over and I'm going to pull upwards and you'll see it's pulling the excess material here and I'm going to keep the loop as much as I can until I guide it to let it go at the end and you'll see that it's going to cinch down on the underside of all those loops and then I wrap this down like that and I pull that direction upwards and you'll pay attention here it will actually tighten this loop up some and so now that has locked the bottom in completely the top we're going to address here in a second but you'll see the two little pigtails together I'm going to take my lighter get those out of the way you'll see the two little pigtails sticking out melt them down squish them and you'll see that it's pretty much just one piece now everything's all together we're going to take the the bottom knocking point but the top section and I'm going to smush it downwards and I'm going to push it down the string usually most permanent knocking points stop here but what happens is as you shoot the arrow is going to have forces pushing up and pushing down depending on how you hook on to the actual string and over time over thousands of shots if you're shooting a lot of arrows the actual knocking points will start to crush and open up the gap in between the knocking points and obviously like I said with olympic style recurve you want the knocking points to to support the arrow however either way you don't want them moving over time you want them permanent so what we do with the bow square is we smush this down to take out all the smush at least as much as possible and then we final anchor it with some super glue you want to have your arrow handy so we can actually test fit it but we need to open this gap up so there's many different ways to do it the bow square is the easiest way one with a nice 90 degree edge is ideal and you're going to hook it into the actual knocking point like so and I like to anchor with my other hand and push down with my thumb like so and so I'm just smushing that knocking point down and you'll see as I'm smushing and moving it like that it's opening up that gap it's starting to actually open it up and so you'll want to take your arrow and check it I can tell it's still too small it fits on but I can't rotate it easily it's it's getting hung up on some of the knot surfaces so we're really really close but you'll see how much I just squished that down and now you'll see that the serving is stacked really really tightly especially at the top where I was sliding it down so we'll set the arrow aside now you'll see it goes on there's no play up and down and it's easy to rotate the string so it's exactly like it was when we were in the movable version but now this bottom one's not going to move if you look very very closely at how this is tied on it actually has a larger diameter where it supports the knock and it tapers down and it's smoother and flatter towards this end that is because when we squished it down it's kind of opening everything up but not loosening any anything because we wrap nice and tight it just builds this surface up and removes any of the movement that could potentially happen as we shoot this thing more and more so now this thing is not going to move it's not going to squish anymore because the amount of force that I was pushing down with the actual bow square is really actually quite high so we're doing all of the pre-stretching or the pre-moving of any of the material before we shoot a single arrow so now it's super permanent and it's never going to move from here now that I'm done with my bottom one take my knife and I can cut the top one off as well the top one you'll see that I'm cutting away from the bottom because many times you'll slip through this and cut the bottom one and then now you got to replace it so I'm going to start from this angle and cut upwards and then work to get this top one off these movable ones are much harder to take off because of the amount of knots that we tied on so they kind of cinch themselves down and don't allow themselves to be cut off whereas these ones if I nicked it and cut one strand it would unravel that's why we superglue them at the end to make them a little bit more permanent so they don't just come completely undone and then we're going to do the same thing a short end and a long end if I'm right-handed so I tie right hand knots using the right side of my body the right side of the serving and that's the long side for me usually is when I have the extra pigtail one long one short the right one is the one that I start with the long version or the long end and then I cinch it down again a much smaller gap than I need again over time you'll find out how much gap you need how much squish you're going to get depending on how tight you pull this and how tightly you actually serve it so I did one on top I'm doing one on the bottom again and I only do one because I want the ability to smoosh it down and I want it to be very low profile but I want it to be anchored enough to I can start the serving process so nice and tight pull the short pigtail down and then I'm going to continue wrapping this top one because that's how I have it tied that it wants to continue wrapping naturally again if I backed it up you'll see it's not wanting to go back the other direction very cleanly and it's kind of bunching up that serving a little bit and it's not looking so good continue wrapping and I'm going to do eight wraps as I did on the bottom I'm going to do the same on the top I like things symmetrical so one two three and so what I mean by tight is if I leave a gap like this when I go to smoosh it it's going to slide a lot but if I stack them nice and tight next to each other and I'm keeping a good amount of tension on the actual serving it's going to remove the ability for it to be squished so there's five six seven eight move this down out of the way do four more one and you'll see that I made sure that I didn't leave any gap there one two three four now back serve holding the tension here looping again over the top one two three four and five and then I take the excess put it up and then serve back over it one you don't have to count this part because it itself unwinds and then once I get to this stage pulling my excess up see that I'm controlling it as much as I can you can even support it with like so underneath so it keeps tension on it so it doesn't unravel you guide it to make sure that it's going to cinch right next to it and then you pull that one down because we're ending the top knocking point now you'll notice I didn't touch this extra tail and pull the extra tail down or tight from the first knot that's just sitting there and it's just a placeholder so making sure you don't actually pull that tight that's a really important thing this version I'm going to cut off this one's a little easier to cut off compared to the movable knocking point and it doesn't want to untie itself and it can end up being a little bit cleaner if you cut it off and then burnish it or burn it instead of doing it from the beginning so get this melted down smush it flat nice and flat and then I'm going to smush the top one up trying to get that same gap back to where it was so you'll see I'm anchoring and holding onto the string as I'm pushing this up and be careful here because if you slip off you can jam your thumb doesn't really feel very good and also if you slip up you can spread and open up these sections which you don't want to do either you want to make sure it stays in place in the top section you don't want to open those you know the wraps up you just want to tighten everything up so I'm angling it like so against the string and I'm not completely flat so that way it prevents it from popping up and over once I get close grab my arrow actually it's perfect no movement up and down very easy to spin it and that's how you tie on a permanent knocking point now from here we want to make sure that no matter what this thing doesn't come undone even though it's well supported like now and it's not going to come off when you do this next trick that I'm going to show you with or with you know vein glue it's never going to come undone unless you want it to come undone and then you're going to have to cut it off so the tools for the next step here is max bond glue and a piece of computer paper I don't need the arrow yet I will need the arrow in the last step and you want to grab an arrow that may have a knock on it that you're going to use as a sacrificial knock and I'll show you why you're basically going to almost glue your arrow onto the string and once you do this next step the knock that you use it with is not going to be shootable it's something that you're going to just throw out when you're done because it's going to have super glue on it and when you get glue on knocks they can crack and I don't want that to happen to you so what you can also do is give your paper just a fold in half you're going to use this to actually wipe the super glue into the center serving and into the knocking point and use it to clean out the knocking point in the middle so as I get going it'll all make sense here as I'm doing this so I'm going to coat from about a millimeter an eighth of an inch or so 16th of an inch on either side of the knocking points over the entire knocking point and in the entire center where the knock would sit so this stuff's very thick I would recommend doing this with a gel super glue not the super thin stuff the super thin stuff will just drip right off of you there's a chunk of dried material I just wanted to get out of the way so you don't want to do it with the thin stuff the gel any vein glue something like that it's going to be sufficient and you'll see that I got a little bit of it past the knocking point and I literally coated the entire surface on the outside so now I take my piece of paper and I'm folding it over because I got glue already on it and I'm just going to support this and spin the actual string back and forth now I got to move relatively quick because this is going to start to dry and then I take the edge where it's folded and I just wipe the center section out of where the knock would be right and then I'm going to set that aside grab my knock and I'm going to put it on the string and rotate the string and wiggle the knock back and forth and take it on and off a few times really fast you got to do this quick otherwise the knock itself will glue to the string permanently and obviously you don't want that all right so that is enough and then from here let's set that arrow aside and you'll see there's a little bit of excess glue on either end so if you take your paper and you just kind of target that area and clean it up a little bit better and now from here you just let it sit and it will be permanently dry in about five to ten minutes or so you could use ca accelerator to speed things up I'm just going to let it sit like this but that is a permanent knocking point and that is exactly what you want it to look like you'll see that it is very smooth in the center serving there's almost perfectly flat surfaces on either side of where the arrow would be from the knocking points to sit and exactly support the arrow perfectly and what that does is it gives a really really solid platform for the arrow to be in the exact same place every single time on the string and so that way you're really really accurate with where the arrow is being put on the string and it's going to then be delivered by the bow the arrow will be delivered by the bow consistently exactly the same every single time hopefully this version of the video is a little bit easier to follow because of the contrasting colors I can totally understand why having a different colored knock tying thread on a center serving that is not the same color makes a big difference here on camera I prefer black on black that's just what I like but you know obviously everybody's preferences are different so hopefully this video helped and now you can understand how to better tie movable knocking points to make your tuning process much much faster and then how to replicate the exact position that you need it to be in by replacing one knocking point at a time with a permanent version if you wouldn't mind if you want to help support this channel check out the many different links down in the description below as well as hitting that subscription button and the notification bell that way you get notified when I upload new content and if you know anybody that needs to tie on new knocking points or somebody that's looking for how to do that please share this video with them genuinely that's the biggest help here to help grow this channel and a quick reminder we are currently in the middle of a $4,000 WiaWiz giveaway package including this MetaLX riser as well as a set of limbs in your choice of length and weight a case and a whole bunch of other stuff including a stabilizer system full details down in the description below or you can head to my website jakominski.com that is running through the end of November so you got to get in soon there is a free option as well no purchase necessary again full details at the link in the description below or at my website jakominski.com I hope this video was helpful and I hope it speeds up your tuning process