1 Mistake Caught This Bally Supersonic Pinball Machine ON FIRE!

Ladies and gentlemen, this is Joe's Classic Video Games back with another cool pinball repair video for you this evening. We got in this beautiful Bally Supersonic pinball machine. I love these early Bally's. This thing is a 10 footer. From 10 feet away, where we're at right now, looks pretty good. But whenever you get a little closer, you're going to be horrified. Are you ready? Are you ready? So our buddy Jonathan picked this up for us and brought it to us. Cabinet's pretty beat up. I mean it'll clean up, but it's not it's not going to be in new shape or anything. You could re-stencil it. Looks like it may have even had some touch-up paint done. That something looks weird there. Here's the serial number, which is weird. ESB ESB 9934. There was something with Supersonic where originally it was Star Trek and then they changed it. Oh it's SU. ESU 9934. Yeah 9934. ESU 9934. That makes sense. So the E means electronic. SU Supersonic 9934. So this this is of course in the era of time right as they were had just started making the electronic machines as opposed to the electromechanical machines. Look somebody has touched that up for us with a little spray paint. Thank you guys. Appreciate that. All right so here's the problem with the thing. Playfield. Pretty bad. It's one of the worst we've done. I saw pictures of it and the reason that I decided that I wanted to do it was because it's all solid colors. There's no art or anything. It's just geometric shapes. So we should be able to put that right back how it goes. It'll be fun. You'll like it. And then the back glass was in pretty good shape. There was a little bit of flaking on the bottom. I went ahead and triple thicked it and then put it back in there. There's one little piece missing. I would love to find that inside the cabinet or something. We are on the lookout for a small red piece of paint. If I can't find it I'll just repaint it by hand. But I think it may actually be inside or something. I mean where else would it have went? So yeah a guy put this up for sale and it was fairly inexpensive and our buddy Jonathan saw it and we were like hey man get it for us and so he got it brought it to us. We appreciate it. It's missing a few of the boards so let's look in the bottom first though. I'll take the glass out. I'm going to show you how we get a stuck playfield glass out. Sometimes on these older ones whenever you go to remove the glass it won't move. So what do you do? Well it's really easy. Once you've messed with them a while it's second nature. So you just grab the thing. It's glass. Be careful. And we just slap it a little bit. Easy peasy. And all that noise you're hearing is there's trash in the rails that has fallen on top of the glass over the years. So all that to say if the glass is stuck whenever you take it apart if you slap it a little bit don't go crazy. You're not trying to break your hand. If you do cut yourself it has nothing to do with me. Slap it a little bit and you can get the thing out. We've never had one stuck where you can't get it out by just slapping it a little bit. Boy there's your great pinball tip. I got the glass off. This once belonged to Matthew's Amusements. Did I show that already? In High Point, North Carolina. Cobwebs. I don't like when you see this. When you clean it all this is going to come off. I mean it's literally the paint's loose. It's just it's popping off as we speak. The thing with this whenever you clean this up you're not damaging it. Like I'm not damaging it right now. I'm not damaging it. It was already damaged. The damage happened years ago. I'm just cleaning it up. I'm about to fix it. Same thing up here. Pretty rough. That's not making it worse. That's fixing it. I'm not the one that damaged it. It was already damaged. I hope you get the point that I'm making. The plastics look good. Somebody at some point replaced one pop bumper cap. Right on. Oh it has the original Bowie lane guides. The only thing with these is if you use them they leach up the red off of the posts. So like if you look close see how there's like a red ring on the white? See how that's red? It's like that the whatever makes the post red has now made the lanes red. The lane guides red. It looks all right. Yeah see I like this type. Yeah it's all beat up but it's complete. This is very fixable. But we're not going to do that first. I think a lot of people do. They start with the cosmetics first. We don't. We get the thing running and then we do the cosmetics. The way I see it if the when if you get the thing running you're adding value to it the whole time. You know so like if I if I if I get the power supply right we're gonna do that first. If I get the power supply right. Okay well that's something to build on right. And then you you get the solenoid board right. Okay well now that it's doing all that. Then you get the the mpu booting. Okay now the game's up and booting. And so you're continuously adding to it. So the last thing I ever do is fix the cosmetics. I think a lot of people they start stripping stuff apart. And they they get a big mess. And then there's really they kind of leave it like that. And the thing don't work. It's all tore apart. Well I don't know. I just like doing stuff in order. It's just my opinion. You can do things the way you want. I had somebody come in a while back and criticize that our games were dirty. The project ones. And the guy just didn't completely didn't get it. The reason there's dust all over that funhouse is because whenever I do the funhouse video. I'm going to show you that it's sitting there dusty. And then I'm slowly going to start bringing it back right. That's the whole point. The stuff's supposed to be dusty. He was complaining about one of the ones in the window. He's like well you could at least take the dust off of it. Look buddy. Yes I didn't tell him that. But I thought it. I thought it. I got a few games over here in the window. Those are coming up. Anyway. All right. So yeah. Let me. Let me lean up the play field and let's see what it looks like underneath. It's not too bad. Cabinet itself actually looks pretty solid. Those are mud dauber. Yes. I think we call them mud daubers. But I think wasps basically do the same thing. Do you have. Do you have bugs that do that. Wasps. Hornets. Mud daubers. All right. I'm going to get the vacuum cleaner and vacuum it up a little bit. Now I know I said I'm doing the cosmetic. I'm not doing the cosmetics first. But I do clean it a little bit. You know. Get rid of all that extra stuff. We're breaking it down to the bones. There's a great mystery with the power cord. I don't even know how they did this. What is it. It goes back in. I don't understand. Jonathan did you do this. This is with the glass off. The five displays look doable. I think they may. They may surprise us. Let's see what's going on in here. Yeah he said. The guy said that the boards are missing. And I was like which boards are missing. The ones I didn't want to be missing were the entire power supply. The transformer. And the sound board actually. The sound board isn't super valuable. And our buddy GTO could get us another one. But the you know I like those. For whatever reason you just don't see those as much. So it's missing the solenoid driver board. And it's missing the lamp driver board. I've got both of those. In spades. I should have plenty of them. You know what. Last time we did a solenoid driver board though wasn't I starting to get low. We'll see. And then here is the MPU. And someone has removed the battery at some point. So it's not too bad. It's got some damage but nothing crazy. We'll be able to fix that. I do see some burn marks over there. So that'll be interesting to kind of discover what in the world happened there. I'll tell you my just my first thought is that's the area. That's some of the support chips for the displays. So I hope the displays aren't burnt. Aren't all screwed up or something. But we'll figure all that out whenever we mess with the MPU. Okay so I'm going to loosen these bolts a little bit so I can move the head forward and slide the cord out. And I'm going to clean this up and save these screws. These are thread cutting screws is what they used originally from Bally. If you look at the beginning of the thread it's slightly more narrow than the rest. It actually will cut threads and metal. So I guess they would make you know all their brackets and things that had holes in them and then they just run the screw through it and it would make the threads up as it went. So I'm going to pull those out. Those are cool. And vacuum it up and get that power cord out of there. Okay so I was able to get that out and whenever you put the bolts in if you just make it flush with the back that's that will line up the holes about exactly where they need to be. I wiped that down a little bit. Get rid of some of the dust. Vacuumed it out. So it's clean enough now that we can start working through the electronics. This is what's left of the plug. I don't know what happened there. Yeah so that needs a little attention. I guess it's probably all right. Oh well no well there's our problem. That's probably what happened to it. All right so I'm going to put a nice new plug on it and then we're going to just plug it in. Now it's not going to work. Obviously there's boards missing. But I just want to see if anything's held on. Is there a survivor among all of these light bulbs? So go ahead and put your comments down below. How many light bulbs are still working on the machine? Now just to make it fair the ones under the machine or most of the ones under the machine are computer controlled so none of those can work. But there may be a couple that light up just all the time. Maybe one or two. There's two here. So that's four. So six, eight, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 25. These may all light up all the time. 25, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65, 66. But I counted these when I shouldn't. 64, 62, 60, 56. I think there's about 55 maybe general illumination light bulbs. How many of them do you think have lasted all this time? To the point that they wore the paint off the playfield. To the point that the boards all died and they pulled some of them out of there. How many light bulbs do you think have held on? I'm I'm going to guess three. I think three out of 50 light bulbs are still working. All right, let me fix the power cord. All right, I got a nice new plug end on it. So let's see. What do you think? Here we go. Nothing. Nothing. I wonder if every one of them is burnt out. Hmm. Let me see if I can even tell if the the transformer's on. I may, we may have another wiring problem. I'm going to try to switch the other way. Usually you can hear the transformer. Okay, so let's let's swap one bulb and you know I'm just playing around doing this. This isn't, you don't have to do this. I'm just interested. I think just the direction I have the switch that it's off right now. Yeah, so everything's dead. Okay, so let's go back inside the bottom and look at some stuff. The way that it works is the first thing that power does is it runs in and it goes to this line filter. So you can see the wires right there on the top. So I'm going to use a multimeter and check and make sure we've got power there. I could have screwed up the plug that I put on it or maybe I've got the power turned off. All right, I've got the the probes on. I don't have clips on it so I can't show you real easy, but I checked the power and we do have 123 volts there. So then it runs through the line filter into these lines here and they look fine. Okay, so they're getting turned into this white and black line here. And if you look, it's curling up and going forward. That's because it's going to the switch. Okay, so next up, this is the switch at the front. I checked the voltage on the white and black wires. It's there, 123 volts. And then I checked the voltage on the blue and yellow wires and it's there because the switch is turned on. 123 volts. So now the yellow and blue wires run back up to the head to the power supply. So they come up here. The yellow and blue wires are right here. And the first thing they do is run through this fuse and it is blown. So the fuse blew. Now typically the main fuse doesn't blow. So when that happens, it could have been that power cord. You saw how screwed up that was. You know, all it would take is one of the wires touching the other one and it would blow the main fuse. So it could have been that. I guess we'll hope it's that. All right, so I'm going to get another fuse. Let's see, what does it say it is? It is a 3 amp. So the 3 amp fuse, which is on the main primary line coming in. But first, we're going to turn it off and unplug it from the wall so I don't get electro killed. All right, so brand new 3 amp fuse in it. Let's turn it back on. Let's see if we immediately blow up the fuse. Oh Lord! Somebody has a... Oh Lord! What are you doing to me? Come on people. What the hell? Somebody's jacked around with this thing. They must have repinned it. Look at that. So I think we have new burn here. There's smoke all over it. I think we have a new burned area right there. All right, so that's the end of us turning this on for a while because we've got to find the short. First, I've got to find something that's actually shorted together and then I've got to figure out where it's shorted together. Now, something like that, you might be thinking, oh damn, you just burned up a bunch of stuff. No, it's the same as with the paint. You think I'm the first guy that turned it on like that? No, that's the problem with it. There's really very little way to guard against something like that happening. We could have unplugged that. The only reason I didn't was because it doesn't have the solenoid driver board in it, which is what creates the five volts. And there's a little loop on it that sends the 12 volts over to it. So there shouldn't be any voltages over there. But there was and it's tripping. It could be though that one of these is overfused. I probably should have checked that, but we'll figure it all out. Okay, so I think that might be the first thing I'll check. So let me check and see if any of these are overfused. And then we'll try to figure out if something is miswired. It looks like they've been messing with something. It could have been something on the displays. But again, like the 200 volts or the 190 volts that runs the displays comes off of display the solenoid driver board. So all of those voltages should be missing. With this in, you should only be sending voltages up to up to here, you know. But I must be not thinking of one. There must be another one that I'm not thinking about. I wonder if they've got, just thinking, I wonder if they've got the wrong plug in. But I don't think it'll reach and I don't think, I think that's the right one. All right, well, damn. That was explosive. Boy, I get those good videos out of this kind of stuff. All I got to do is burn up a bunch of electronics and everybody wants to watch that. Oh, God. All right, folks. So there's something, you know, it's strange that it's sparking up like that because they're, the way the transformers made, you know, there's a primary and then there's secondary. So it shouldn't be blowing the primary fuse unless something seriously catastrophic is happening and sure sounded like it was. So I'm looking through the wiring and remember I said, oh, somebody might have repinned it. So there's this issue on these old pinball machines where the connectors burn up, especially on like the AC lines. And the AC is used for the general illumination. Six volts. So whenever that happens, you have to take the wire out, put a new pin on the end of it and then put it back in the connector where it goes. Key point there is where it goes. Okay. So I've checked this. This is the wiring coming in and it's all in the correct place. Now, if you look here, there is a little, see the little 38 there? J238. That's the code for the wire color. And there is a little table down here. Ironically, this one you can't read that very well, but 38 is yellow and black. You see how I'm getting that? So the three is the first color, which is the third line there, which is yellow, although you can't see it all the way. And then eight is black. So it's yellow with a black wire. All right. So you can go through and just check to see where the wire, what color wire is supposed to go in each spot. And on the front of the transformer, on that rectifier board, it tells you what the connector number is. And then it tells you what pin is on one end or the other. So let me go show you the rectifier. So I checked this one and I checked this one and now I'm checking this one. So I've started removing this because, you know, we're going to rebuild it anyway. So here is pin 10 is down here on this end, right? And then that is pin 8 is on this end. Or another way to put it is pin 1 is here of this connector and pin 1 is there of this connector. And then if you look at this one, pin 20 is on this end and pin 1 is on that end. Okay. So I went through and this one is completely correct. And this one is completely correct, but these aren't the ones that burn up usually. So what happens is this bottom connector, the pins burn up in this connector. Sometimes this connector will burn in half, right? But let's start checking it. So pin 20 of the long connector has a green wire soldered to the pin. Okay. So pin 20 is supposed to be 57. All right. So the wire that's soldered on is green and it's supposed to be 57, which would be green and green, maybe. No, what? What should it, it should be, the color should be white and oh, man, they put it in the wrong place. All right. So let's figure out what's going on there. So interestingly enough, green would be 40. It should be on pin 1. So I don't know if they've got the whole connector turned around or if they just put that wire back in the wrong spot. So they are sending whatever should be pin 1 out to whatever should be pin 20 and whatever should be pin 20 out to whatever should be pin 1. Okay. So surely we found the problem, right? So if you look over here on these schematics, pin 20 is the solenoid return bus. So it's the ground on the power supply. And pin 1 is the general illumination return bus. It's the ground on the power supply. But we don't really know that they swapped them. We just know that that one's in the wrong spot. So we don't really know where the one that's supposed to be there is. The MPU is designated as A4. The voltage regulator solenoid driver board is designated as A3. Transformer is A2. So if you look, it shows you what everything's going to. A5, A5, A3, A3, A3, A4, A5, A3, A3, A3, 3, 3, 3. So there's only one that actually goes to the MPU board, pin 12. A4, J4, 15. So something connects at pin 15 of J4. So pin 12 on the power supply. Well that ain't good. Yeah, so it's the zero crossing input which is going to be the solenoid voltage. So the solenoid voltage is 43 volts. It's supposed to go out pin 12 over to the MPU. So yeah, so if they hooked the wrong wire to that, it would burn a bunch of crap up. All right, so I'm just going to keep walking down this thing. Those two, or that one being in the wrong spot, would actually still work because they're both grounds. But I'm going to keep walking down this. We just did pin 20. Let me do 19, 18, 17. And I'm just going to check the colors and see which ones are in the wrong spot until the answer shows itself. Now this general illumination bus is an AC voltage at pins 10 and 11. That's the ones that generally, generally, that's the ones that usually burn up. So those are ones to keep your eye on. Okay, so let me just start walking back through and see if I can find which other ones are out of place. Well, everything else is functionally correct. They've got the wires for 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the wrong spot. But all of those are grounds, so it doesn't particularly matter. So I think our next step is to take the thing, we got to take it out of the cabinet and just look at the back of that rectifier board and see if they're sending, if something's jumpered wrong or something shorted on the board that's sending it out the wrong wire or something like that. There is a, if you look at this pin 5, it's 190 volts going out to the displays, but they go to the solenoid driver board. So that wire that connects at pin 5 just runs up to the solenoid driver board. However, there's 190 volts on that pin. So if it were to short to pin 6, it would be shorting it to ground. And if it were to short to pin 4, it would be shorting it to ground. So I don't know that that would do what ours is doing. So the other one that you have is the AC voltage is on pin 10 and pin 11. So that could easily short to pin 9, which is the relay. Yeah, that's 43 volts. And it could short to pin 12, which is also 43 volts. So I don't know. There might be something going on on the rectifier board. The thing is all filthy. It looks like it's got squirrel droppings on it and rat droppings on it. So I'll pull it out and we'll look at the back of the rectifier board and see if it looks like there's a bunch of stuff screwed up there. If that's not it, it could be the connector over on the MPU that they have taken the 43 volts that runs to the MPU. And instead of having it go into the pin on the MPU that it's supposed to go in, maybe they moved it and played the same trick that they played on this this connector, but it finally bit them in the butt. All right, I removed the screws. Look at all this crap on my bench. My goal this week is to clean up. Look at all this crap on my bench. Let's see if anything crazy appears to be happening behind it The guy decided to, you know, mod the... I don't like that. I might need to check that. The guy decided... look at all the freaking flux. The guy decided to mod the wiring harness. Maybe he modded the rectifier board. Maybe he was trying to add them leads, make it pop. I mean, I wouldn't have done this, but technically that is a upgrade. I think Clay actually recommends that you do that. I don't do it, but Clay knows more than me. And there's a right way and a wrong way to do it. I don't know. I don't see any issues. Okay, so let's see which fuse they have put the wrong fuse value in that's allowing the main... the main fuse to blow instead of the one that ought to blow. All right, so if you look at the bottom there, it says fuse at the top. It's saying Bussman fuse or MDL fuse. At the bottom there it says 20 amp. So that's a 20 amp fuse. So they did the old put a 20 amp fuse in the 5 amp fuse section. Should have known. It's always the solenoid line. All right, so it's definitely the solenoid voltage that's causing the problem, likely. Unless the rest of them are messed up too. If something... some people just don't know. So I'm not trying to be a jerk. I'm just, you know, I'm being a little snide because it's going to give me a bunch of work. But I guess I'll get a bunch of videos out of it. If something says 5 amps, what they're saying is is that if more than 5 amps runs through that fuse, it will blow the fuse. And fuses aren't a nuisance. They're like a... they're saving your machine. So if you put a the correct fuse in a 5 amp fuse, what will happen is is if anything happens that makes the voltage draw more than 5 amps through that fuse, it'll blow the fuse. And these cost a dollar. They used to cost a quarter, but now they cost a dollar. These cost a quarter... a dollar. Okay, so it costs you one dollar if the fuse blows. If you put this one in, what happens is it starts trying to draw more than 5 amps and it doesn't blow the fuse because it's a 20 amp fuse. So then it draws 6, 7, 10, 15 amps through this fuse just fine. Meanwhile, the wires catch on fire. Sparks flow up all over the back box. The chips burn up on the MPU board. So you save a dollar, but you've burned up hundreds of dollars worth of stuff. So it's just not a good idea. But a lot of people don't realize what that means. There's different fuses with different values. And again, I'm not saying I have to be a smartass. It's just some people don't realize that it works like that. And it does. So we're going to check these bridge rectifiers and see if they're burn up or anything. I don't think they are, but we'll check them. And let me check the other three fuses. This one was correct because it's a 20. All right, I checked the bridge rectifiers. All three of them are fine. So something in the play field or on the MPU or somewhere on the solenoid driver board was blowing this fuse. The solenoid driver board's missing, so there was probably a shorted transistor on it or something. So we still don't know what the culprit is, other than that's overfused. So all I have left to do, really, is I'm going to clean up all of this and re-solder all the pins so that they're making good connection. There's just nothing wrong with this board. They've got a... I think that jumper might be factored, but they've got a... or maybe not. But they've got a couple jumpers on it, but I don't believe that's a problem. I'll check that one to make sure. So I'm going to clean that up, re-solder the back, and then we're ready to put it back in the cabinet, actually. And next up, we're going to look at the connector on the MPU and look at the MPU. There may be something shorted on the MPU where that power goes in. But we'll see. All right, folks, I can't find anything wrong with that board. It's just fine. And so then I check the jumpers on the transformer, which helps select the voltage. And it's actually set up for 115, which is how they came from the factory. So it's fine, too. So this power supply, there's nothing wrong with it, other than they had the wrong fuse in the solenoid... the solenoid fuse. So because of that, basically, this is what happened. They had some kind of short condition on this line. Instead of it popping that... which one are we? We're on the wrong one. Where are we? Where is my 5 ampere? Here we are. They had some kind of short condition on this line. Basically, that voltage was shorted to ground or to the wrong type of voltage. So lots of issues, power doing stuff it shouldn't do. It should have blown that fuse, but it couldn't. So it overloaded this until it... I guess it can always do it. It made the jump across the primary to the secondary so strong that it was pulling so much juice from the primary that it blew the fuse on the primary. So that's bad. If it's doing that, it's pulling a lot of juice. You saw it... what would the amps be on that? I guess it's a 3 amp fuse. So it's 43 volts... 49 volts AC. So that's half an amp. So a 3 amp fuse would be like... so putting a 20 amp fuse on this side, you would need... I can't do the math. We can kind of figure it out though, can't we? It blew a 3 amp fuse over here which means that on this side it got up to about 8 amps, something like that. So it was running about 8 amps through what a circuit that's designed to blow at 5. Not good. All right, or maybe even more because I don't know what it takes to jump that. You know what I mean? I don't know what it takes for this short to pull this higher. But my quick math in my head, I would think that it would be about 8 amps. So we need to re-pin those wires but I'm not going to turn it on yet. I want to look at the MPU board next and see if any of those wires are out of place and then look at the back of that board or the front of that board and see if there's any kind of damage or anything that can tell us why our 43 volts was shorting. So here is the board and I believe I found the problem. And we'll figure out who to blame in a second. Oh lord that got hot. Melted silicone. Silicon. Both. So that's the one that was already smoked. That's the ROM. Usually whenever you have a blown chip with a short in it, this is what it looks like. It has a hole blown right through the chip. Usually in the middle like that. Okay so here's the top ROM. Same thing. Just completely cracked in half. Here's one of the control chips. I think that's for... I think it does like part of the startup. Not the reset section but the... That might be that zero crossing thing actually. It's burned up. We got a cap here burned up. The mighty 6800 appears on phase. It said give me some more. The 6820 it looks fine. And this 6820 it looks fine. That's interesting that it didn't get over there. The 555. Now those do die all the time but they're robust little chips apparently. You can see the corrosion. Tip switches. That one's completely fine or it looks... I mean you can't really go by how they look but that one's completely blown apart. That one looks fine. Completely blown apart. Completely burned up. This one actually looks fine. That dust is from this resistor. They just run hot. See the the dust under it. The 5101 looks like it was probably so corroded from the battery that it didn't get the juice. The 6810 looks fine. And this bottom ROM looks fine. That's interesting. Okay so I don't think this was here before. I'll have to go back and check out the video but I don't think that was smoked before. I think we just did that. This is a tantalum capacitor actually. Those short from time to time but I don't think that's what happened. Okay so I fired it up because the solenoid driver board was missing from it. The power supply creates 12 volts and then sends it up to the solenoid driver board. The solenoid driver board creates 5 volts out of that and sends the 5 volts over to the MPU. I believe the 12 doesn't even go to here. Well I know it doesn't. We just looked at the schematics. So there is a little jumper on the solenoid driver board. If you remove it there's one wire that's looped. I think though that might be the one that runs all this. But anyway the 12 volts doesn't even go to this connector. So the 5 volts doesn't and the 12 volts doesn't if the solenoid driver board's missing. That's just how it's designed. However there's one wire that does come over here and it's the solenoid voltage. The 43 volts which is significant. So the solenoid voltage comes over here and it comes in on pin 15 which is this pin right here. Pin 14 is the one that's missing. That's a key so it's supposed to be missing. So it's this pin right here. All of these are like signals instead of solenoid and stuff like that. Okay so pin 16 or pin 15. Pin 15 right here is 43 volts and when you don't have the solenoid driver board that voltage is still there because it comes straight from the power supply. So here's where we decide who's at fault. If you look at the bottom of the board, a common thing with these, you just saw me do it on the power supply, is to re-solder the connectors because you get you get cold solder joints. Like that one pin. See that first pin there? The one that we're trying to focus on? So this pin, see the little square around it? That has actually separated from the base, the solder base here. There may be part of it that's still touching, enough for power to go through. But think about it, it's supposed to be soldered to that and you may have just one little piece that's actually touching and then all of the amperage is trying to get through that to go through here. Now it's milliampere but you get my point. So if that's not touching, it's a physical problem. If that's not touching then electricity can't get through there and so it doesn't work, right? And it always happens on the end pins. So this one would be bad and these would be bad. When there's a couple of them together like this, usually they're a little better because you can blob more solder on it. Or that's just how it ends up whenever they run these through the wave pool, right? So it's a common thing to re-solder these. I just did it on the power supply. So it looks like maybe a couple of them have been. If you get down here, this is ground. Both of these are ground. Both of these are 5 and this one's 43. So the problem is the 43 is touching the 5. So it's essentially connecting to everything that's supposed to get 5, i.e. every chip on the board. That's why they're all blown apart. Now if this had been touching ground, everything probably would have been fine because it would have immediately blew the fuse. It's such a dead short. It would have blown the fuse. But instead, this was touching where the 5 is supposed to go and the 5 isn't plugged in because the solenoid driver board's gone. So it started driving all of the chips with 43 volts instead of 5 volts and none of them liked it and started blowing up and burning up and shorting internally and catching on fire, literally. Then something shorted at the ground and that's what blew the fuse. This last time it didn't even blow the fuse. It was trying to. If we would have left it on, of course it would have. So that's the problem. So how do we know who did that? Well, we're just going to see if that'll come off. If that's a solder blob, then somebody did it that was re-soldering the board. So whoever that was did it. If that's just a flake of dirt or something that fell in there, well then it could be a squirrel did it. I don't have a screwdriver here, but let's see if that's solid or if that's just something sitting in there. Yeah, that's solid. So somebody re-soldered it, maybe this one, and did real sloppy work and it reached over and shorted out to the 43 volt pin on the power supply and burnt up every board in the damn game. I mean, not every board in the game, but it burnt this one up. It probably burnt the solenoid driver board up. Well, I don't know. Let me think. The solenoid driver board, yeah, it probably burnt up the solenoid driver board or at least damaged it because it would have been sending five volts into here. Whenever it turned it on, the solenoid driver board had a five volt connection here with 43 connected to it. So it would have backfed through the solenoid driver board and burn up the five volt regulator and other stuff on the board probably. So that's why the solenoid driver board's missing out of it. Our sound board, I believe, has its own power supply on it. You know what though? It gets the 43 too, but it wouldn't, that wouldn't matter. The 43 would be connected to the five, but I think the sound board makes its own five. It may that's why the lamp board's missing too. It burnt up the freaking lamp board because it gets its five from the solenoid driver board too. So once the 43 jumped into the five, it would have blown up all the chips on the solenoid driver board. It would have blown up all of the chips on this board and it would have blown up all of the chips on the lamp driver board. So I guess we learned a new one. I thought it was safe if I would have disconnected that. It was already screwed up. You saw it already had the fire up here. So the board is already toast. So I guess it doesn't matter. You know, these other ones were probably screwed up too. I just didn't look close enough to see. But it just goes to show you, you can have a short between the 43 and the five, even if the solenoid driver board's not in the in the game because it still gets that 43 volts from the power supply. All right, so I think I'm going to clean up the back box a little bit and put that back in. And then we should finally, if the displays aren't all, oh god, all the display's got five volts too. That wouldn't be good. The glass itself doesn't though. So it probably would have just blown up the decoder chips on the displays. We'll go look at that. So I'm gonna get this mounted back in there and then we might have to unplug all the displays and then turn it on. And we should get where the general illumination works and nothing else works because nothing else is plugged in. Please little displays, don't be burn up. Now don't be burn up now little displays. Come on now, please. Please little displays, don't be burn up. I can't see. It's not bright enough. How does she look? Looks fine actually. Okay, well cool. Maybe we got lucky. Let's see that test point one, five volts. Yeah, they look fine actually. So for whatever reason it only burnt up certain chips. There must have, it must have burnt up a trace or something. Hmm. Well, I plugged it back in. You uh, you don't think it's gonna shock me again, do you? I mean you think it's gonna be all right, don't you? I'll put that back in there. Let me see if I can turn it back on. All right, hopefully, hopefully we won't get that same problem that happened before. And I'm not worried, I'm not, I'm not worried about it. Oh, look at that. No fire without the board and the freaking that the guy did. No problem. Now, do you want to see something that'll make your mama cry? They fried my damn soundboard. People, be very careful when you're resoldering things. You don't want to bridge a couple, you don't want to bridge a couple things together. Now, I'm going to end this by saying though, I am not one of those people that says, if you don't know what you're doing, don't mess with it. I agree the opposite. If you don't know what you're doing, mess around with it until you learn what you're doing. That's what, that's how I see it. So I'm not that upset about it. All of this can be fixed. There is a prom on this board though that you can't really, I got some other ones though. And like I said, there's the beautiful GTO custom board is available too. Now, uh, I was talking about the mess around with stuff till you figure it out. I have another channel, you know, here on YouTube, if you haven't seen it called amateur repair time, where I just do just that. And the whole point of that channel is to show that I wasn't born where I knew how to work on pinball machines. No, the way I learned about them and the way I can work on them is because I've just screwed around with them until I figured it out and used, researched it and looked into it. And if it's something you're interested in, you will find a way to learn about it. So on my amateur repair time channel, I've been watching a guy named J.R. Clocker, who is a guy on eBay that sells clock parts. And I've been watching him rebuild some clock movements and stuff like that. And I've been tinkering around with them for about a year and a half now. And I'm getting where I can rebuild a clock. Well, when it started, I couldn't do that. And I screwed one up. I messed up the, the, the escape wheel on one. I messed up the verge on another one, but you know, you learn by messing with it. That's how I learned. So yeah, they screwed the thing up. Hopefully they learned a lesson from that. And the next one, they probably won't screw up as bad as they screwed up this one. And that's just how it goes. Whenever I started working on them, I couldn't understand a freaking thing about them. And when I first started working on pinball machines, I really didn't understand electronics that good. So anything that I do know about electronics, I learned messing around with pinball machines in arcade games. So I hope you enjoyed the video so far. Next time we will, we still got to repin the connectors on that thing. We've got to work through the, we got to do the solenoid board and all that. But I will say, this thing has more, I'm kicking a spring down there. That's the noise. This thing has more than three lights working. The poor thing had almost all of the lights working before it was abused. Someone hurt this baby and fried all the freaking boards in it. Alright, so we'll see you next time. Hope you enjoyed it. Leave your comments down below. Let me know what you think. And that'll about do it now. If you like this Supersonic, originally this was going to be the Star Trek game. It's rumored that this bonus ladder, see how it says STS. It had something to do with Star Trek. This was originally designed to be the Star Trek game. But we have done some videos on some Star Trek pinball machines. And I will put up an entire playlist right here of that beautiful original Bally Star Trek pinball machine. We'll see you on the next one of this Supersonic. Hope you enjoyed it.