Regatta in Venice (c. 1770–1780) & View of the Cannaregio Canal, Venice (c. 1775–1780) – Francesco Guardi

Rococo Art (c.1720-1780)
4 iscritti
20 mag 2025
Set a course for 18th-century Venice as Deputy Director and Peter Jay Sharp Chief Curator Xavier F. Salomon explores a pair of vedute (views) by Francesco Guardi. Displayed on the third floor of Frick Madison alongside works by Tiepolo and Rosalba Carriera, Guardi’s paintings capture the vibrant life of Venice—complete with color-coordinated boatmen, laundry-draped balconies, and liveried attendants welcoming dignitaries.
Good evening.
I am Xavier Salomon,
the Deputy Director
and Peter Jay Sharp Chief Curator
at The Frick Collection.
Welcome to this evening's episode
of Cocktails with a Curator.
At the heart of the third floor
of Frick Madison,
our temporary new home,
is a small area with five works
that were produced in Venice
in the eighteenth century.
This is an area of the collection
where we don't have many works,
but I've already spoken about
some of these.
I've spoken about Tiepolo's
Perseus and Andromeda,
his sketch for Fresco Cycle,
now lost in Milan,
and I've spoken about
the two beautiful pastels
by Rosalba Carriera,
which are a very recent acquisition
for the museum.
Today, instead,
I would like to talk about
two vedute view paintings
by the Venetian eighteenth-century
artist Francesco Guardi,
which may come as a surprise
to many visitors to the Frick
but may also be old friends
to other people.
And you see one of the two here
between Tiepolo and Rosalba Carriera.
These may look familiar
to some visitors to the Frick
because they're usually displayed
in the reading room
of the Frick Art Reference Library
at the Frick.
And they were paintings
that were acquired
by Henry Clay Frick in 1913
but then given to his daughter,
Helen Clay Frick,
who kept them until 1984
when she donated them
to the institution.
And since then,
they've been on display
at the Frick Art Reference Library.
But now at Frick Madison,
we're able to show them
with Tiepolo
and with Rosalba Carriera.
And these are two pendant views
of Venice.
They were painted
by Francesco Guardi,
who is the last great view painter
of Venice.
He follows, obviously,
in the footsteps
of other artists
like Luca Carlevaris,
but most famously Canaletto
and his nephew Bernardo Bellotto.
Guardi's life spans pretty much
most of the eighteenth century.
He is born in 1712
and dies in 1793.
He is, of course,
working, like Canaletto and Bellotto
and his predecessors,
for an international audience.
Most of the tourists
coming to Venice
would like to return then home
to England, France,
or other places in Italy or Europe,
with views of Venice.
And so they would buy these works
by Canaletto, Bellotto, and Guardi.
While his predecessors
also spent time abroad,
most famously Canaletto
spent some time
almost a decade in England,
and Bellotto traveled extensively
to Central and Eastern Europe,
mostly Saxony and Poland,
Guardi was firmly based in Venice.
You see him here
in a contemporary portrait,
now at the Museo Marcarezzonico
in Venice.
And Guardi was the son
and brother of painters,
and his sister, Cecilia Guardi,
married Tiepolo.
So he's also Tiepolo's brother-in-law.
So he's firmly at the heart
of the artistic world of Venice
at the time.
With these two viewpaintings,
we're obviously going to be talking
about Venice
and various sites in Venice.
So I am pairing this
with a typical Venetian drink,
which is a sgropino.
A sgropino derives
from the Venetian dialect word
sgropin for sorbet,
for lemon sorbet.
And this is actually
a very old drink
and maybe one of the oldest cocktails
that we've talked about
in this series
because types of sgropini and sorbetti
would go all the way back
to the sixteenth century in Venice.
And this, of course,
is a more modern take on it,
which is lemon sorbet
with vodka and prosecco.
And, of course, you can make it
as strong or as weak as you like.
But this is something
that is usually drunk in Venice
in the summer,
at the end of a meal.
Sometimes people also offer it
in between courses as a cleanser,
which is also the way
it was used in banquets.
Different types of sorbets
were used that way
all the way
from the sixteenth century onwards.
Cheers.
So, with Guardi's view paintings,
we are in key sites in Venice.
This is the first of the two,
which shows the Grand Canal,
of course, the main site in Venice.
And here we're looking north
towards the Rialto Bridge
with palaces,
grand aristocratic palaces,
on both left and right.
The occasion that this painting
is representing is a regatta.
And a regatta would have been a race,
a competition along the canal
with different types of boats.
And some of them were
single occupancy boats.
Some had couples or groups of people,
as in this case.
Some of these were gondolas.
Others would have been decorated
in very lavish ways,
as in this case.
And these were called bisone.
And here you get a group of people
dressed in blue,
matching the decoration of their boat.
But as you look through the painting,
you realize that there are
a number of other boats
with different colors.
And this would have been easy,
of course,
as people were competing
along the canal
to recognize which boat
was the winning boat.
Here you have a pink one
and a gold one.
And the gold one
is wonderfully decorated
with this little umbrella.
And the people in the boat
have little triangular hats,
which, of course,
with the umbrella,
are very much referring
to Chinese fashion.
The site of the canal
hasn't changed very much.
And here I'm comparing
a detail of the painting
with a photo I took
only a few weeks ago.
Looking up towards Rialto,
and you can see just at the end
in the detail
and at the end of the photo
on the right,
half of the span
of the arch
of the Rialto Bridge
at the end of the canal.
On the left is Cabalbi,
the palace of the Balbi family,
which, of course,
is still also on the site.
But immediately to the left
of the palace
you notice a structure
with two columns
and a series of decorations.
And this structure
actually was built
in between these two palaces.
So here, again,
you see on the right
the Balbi Palace.
On the left you see
the Foscari Palace,
Ca' Foscari,
which is now the site
of the University of Venice
that was then, of course,
a patrician palace.
And between these two
they were built, basically,
on a major bend
in the canal,
in the Grand Canal,
in an area called
the Volta di Canal,
the bend of the canal.
And there, for the regate,
a macchina would be built.
And a macchina, a machine,
was a temporary structure
built with wood
and papier-mâché
where the important people
witnessing the regata
would sit to watch it.
Of course, this being
a major bend in the canal,
you could look all the way,
almost down to St. Mark's
on one side
and all the way up
to the Alta on the other.
But this was also
where prizes were given out
to the winners of the regata.
Regate would take place
on a number of occasions
in Venice
for the election of a doge,
the head of state,
or they would take place
for the visits
of important people
coming to Venice
or for the arrivals
of ambassadors.
So we don't know
what the precise occasion
of the regata
in Guardi's painting is,
but these happened
on a number of occasions.
And, of course,
a regata storica
still happens
once a year, still,
in Venice.
Guardi is somewhat basing
his painting, however,
on not a specific
historic event,
and it's probably something
that was created
in his studio
from imagination
to a large degree.
But he bases a lot
of his views
on views of his predecessors,
on views by Canaletto.
And so here you see Guardi,
which was painted
probably in the early 1770s,
compared to Canaletto
in the Royal Collection
in the UK,
which was painted instead
in the 1730s,
forty years earlier.
And you can see that
a lot of the view
is very much the same.
And this was not seen
as any form of plagiarism,
of copying,
but, in fact,
Guardi was appreciated
by many patrons
as a freer and different version
of a view painted
than Canaletto.
So you see how the sky
is much more dramatic
and the light effects
are very different
from the ones in Canaletto.
And, of course, the details
are much more
impressionistically painted
than the Canaletto below.
Guardi probably based
some of his views on,
in fact, engravings,
prints after Canaletto.
And here I'm showing you
a print by Vicentini
after the Canaletto
I've just shown you.
And this was probably
one of the models for Guardi.
And Guardi would paint these
over and over again.
So here I'm comparing again
the Frick painting above
with a painting of,
effectively, the same view
but with somewhat
different details
and a little closer
to the Vicentini print,
which is now
in the Gulbenkian Museum
in Lisbon.
The second painting
in this couple
shows instead
the second-largest canal
in Venice
after the Grand Canal.
And this is the
Cannaregio Canal,
which goes up
from the Grand Canal
up north
towards the open lagoon
and Mestre.
And here you see the view
on the left
towards the bridge,
another bridge,
the bridge of the Tre Archi,
of the Three Arches,
and with this large palace
on the right.
This is along
the Fondamenta of Cannaregio,
the sort of pavement area
along the canal.
And you see some smaller houses
with people
putting laundry out
and textiles
and people walking
up and down
the Fondamenta below.
The boats also
populate this canal,
but, of course,
this is not the Grand Regatta.
But here you have gondolas
transporting people
up and down the canal.
You have fishermen
on a small boat
also fishing in the canal.
And this wonderful
other boat
near the Fondamenta,
which has been loaded
with boxes and crates.
And in one of the crates
you can just about make out
the initials of the artist,
F. G. Francesco Guardi,
P., of course,
for Pinzi,
for painting this.
So the artist signs his work
in this small detail.
The Ponte dei Tre Archi
is the main bridge
on this canal.
It is described
as the bridge of three arches
because, in fact,
if you think about it,
most of the bridges in Venice
have only one span,
one arch.
And because this canal
is fairly large,
this bridge had three arches,
which is unusual in Venice.
The bridge is also the focus
of another painting by Guardi
that I'm showing you here
in the National Gallery of Art
in Washington.
And here you're still seeing
the Cannaregio Canal,
but much closer to the bridge
and without the palace
on the right.
This site,
like the Grand Canal,
hasn't changed very much.
And Venice is probably
one of the few cities
in the world where,
if you look at
an eighteenth-century view
and a view from today,
you can almost recognize
every building.
And here again,
you see all the way
at the left
the Ponte dei Tre Archi
and this grand palace
at the center of the view.
Now, this is the palace,
the so-called
Ca' Surian Bellotto.
And it was built
in the seventeenth century
for the Surian family.
And the Surian family
was actually a family
of Armenian origins.
And then at the end
of the eighteenth century,
it was taken over
by the Bellotto family.
And here is the palace today,
very much like you see
in the Guardi view.
But when you look closely
to the Guardi painting,
you realize that there is
a large coat of arms
over the door of the palace
and you see a group of people
very richly dressed in livery
welcoming someone
into the palace.
And this is because
in the eighteenth century,
Palazzo Surian Bellotto
was the French embassy
in Venice.
And so what the painting
is showing is probably
the arrival of an important person,
a guest of the ambassador
or a guest of the
French government,
someone arriving from France
in Venice.
And it shows this specific event
at the embassy.
The embassy is also known,
and curiously so,
for having been the place
where for just about a year,
between 1743 and 1744,
Jean-Jacques Rousseau,
the great Swiss philosopher,
worked as a secretary
of the French ambassador
in Venice.
So we can think of Rousseau
living in the Palazzo Surian
Bellotto.
But this idea of embassies
and ambassadors is something
that appears in Venice
on a number of times
and has been the focus
of books and exhibitions.
Here I'm showing you
a great, wonderful,
very large Canaletto painting
in the Hermitage Museum
in St. Petersburg,
which shows the arrival
of the French ambassador
at the Ducal Palace,
at the main seat of government,
as the ambassador
will be presented
to the head of state.
And this is the arrival
of the French ambassador
in Russia.
Canaletto painted
another version of the painting,
almost identical
with some differences,
which instead shows
the arrival of the
imperial ambassador,
and that is now
in the Crispi Collection
in Milan, in Italy.
And so these views
with embassies
and ambassadors
being represented in it,
of course, made sense
for foreign visitors
coming to Venice
and wanting to acquire
views of this kind.
The two paintings
at the Frick
are further linked
to ambassadors
because even though
it would make sense
to imagine that they were painted
for the French ambassador,
they were in fact painted
for the British ambassador
in Venice,
who was known at the time
as the resident,
the British resident
in Venice.
And this is a man
called John Strange.
John Strange
was ambassador in Venice
from 1773 to 1788,
so for more than a decade
he was based in Venice.
And he was a great scholar,
an archaeologist,
a literary figure,
a great patron of the arts.
And he became
one of the great patrons
of Guardi.
So he actually collected
a large group
of Guardi views,
some of which he acquired
from Guardi.
So we don't know
if the two Frick views
of the regatta
and the French embassy
were paintings
that Guardi had painted
in the early 1770s
and that Strange acquired from him
or if they were commissioned
by Strange.
But there are definitely
other paintings,
including these two views
of a villa,
which were commissioned
from Strange.
And these two paintings
show the same building,
the Villa Loredan in Paese.
And Paese was a small town
outside of Venice,
on the mainland.
And the villa
of the Loredan family
was rented in these years
to John Strange
and his wife.
And that was their,
let's say,
weekend summer residence
where they spent time
outside of Venice.
And so Guardi goes there
with them
and he paints the villa
from the front and the back.
The one above
is now in a private collection.
The one below
is at the Metropolitan Museum
in New York.
And you can see that
in the one below
there is a little figure
in a red cloak
drawing on a park bench.
And that figure
is probably Guardi himself
drawing the villa
and sketching the site.
And there are a number
of drawings for these views.
So it is clear that Guardi
first drew the site,
being in Paese,
presumably with the Strangers,
and then painted
the two canvases
for Strange subsequently.
In 1788,
Strange returns to London,
to the UK,
and he dies in the UK.
And his wife, Sarah,
had actually died
in the 1780s in Venice,
in 1783.
And the couple
didn't have any children.
So Strange leaves instructions
that his entire collection
should be dispersed.
And over a number of sales
at Christie's
and in a number of other places
and through some donations,
the whole of Strange's collection
is dispersed.
His collection
of archaeological artifacts,
of paintings and works of art,
of drawings and prints and books,
also his collection
of natural curiosities.
And some of these
ended up at the time
in a number of public institutions,
others were acquired
by private collectors.
And so the two Guardis,
through a number
of British collections,
then were acquired by Frick
in 1913 through Knoedler.
So I hope that when you come
to Frick Madison
you look at these two wonderful,
small views of Venice.
Of course, the Frick
doesn't have any grand paintings
by Canaletto or Bellotto.
When Frick was acquiring
works of art,
those were very much
not the fashion of the time.
So it is actually quite interesting
that Frick did buy
these two small Guardis
and the small Tiepolo,
which were very much
a curiosity for collectors
in the very early
twentieth century in the U.S.
But, of course,
we're very happy
to have them on view.
And I hope that with this episode
I've managed to transport you
into eighteenth-century Venice,
albeit briefly.
And I hope you're all
enjoying your Sgroppino.
Cheers, and see you all next time.
