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ladies and gentlemen this is Joe's
classic video games back with another
cool arcade game repair video for you
today this is a game that we had a while
back as space invaders we seems like we
get space invaders in all the time space
invaders deluxe that we sold to a
gentleman friend of ours who has arcade
and he's been operating it for a while I
don't know how long he's had it but so
he's been saying that it's got some
issues where it's resetting or it
doesn't come up or sometimes it'll come
up and play and then we'll stop working
after a while order so what we're gonna
do is we're gonna troubleshoot it a
little bit and see if we can figure out
what's going on with it so the first
thing I'm going to do is we'll pop the
backdoor off and look inside just to
make sure everything's in place before
we plug it in so we took the backdoor
off and one thing I see immediately as
this came loose so this is the ground
it's supposed to go from here up to the
tube so you have this little thing here
and this goes right there BAM not sure
that would have really caused a problem
though but that's what's going on and
then you have the game board here
everything looks plugged in properly
this particular one has had a new power
supply put in it you can actually put a
switching power supply in these cabinets
in place of the original style
there's a screw sitting there
and of course we got our two fuses here
so I don't see anything that's out of
the ordinary where you wouldn't want to
plug it in so we'll we'll plug it in and
see what we get out of it we plugged it
in and these have an interlock switch a
lot of games do basically when the back
door is on it holds the switch in which
gives a power and the reason they do
that is so that in case the back door
gets pried off or falls off or whatever
kids won't get electrocuted playing in
the machine so whenever you're servicing
on one you need to pull that out which
is the same as it being pushed in so
usually it's in the middle when the door
is on it holds it in or you can pull it
out if you're servicing it so we've got
it out and then the power switches up
here on top of the cabinet so we'll turn
it on or we'll try to I didn't sound
good our light is on so it's making a
bunch of noise it doesn't sound that
great let's see if we get anything on
the monitor
these monitors take a little while to
come up and do their thing no I think
our monitors messed up I don't see any
neck glow on it
so basically normally the neck should be
glowing orange and it's not and things
look a little crooked it may be that the
tube is screwed up let's see if we can
play it without seeing it I hit the
start
it's up and playing kind of Sam sounds
are a little messed up all right so the
game is playing it's just you can't see
it and it's making a strange sound
whenever you turn it on so let's turn it
back off let's look a little closer at
that neck on the monitor that doesn't
look good at all
man what are they doing to me here so
whoever put this back on can you see
that one pin how it's bent over out of
the way
it's not in the right spot I don't know
if it's focusing properly see the one
pin is bent sideways so that's
definitely an issue so I'll try to
carefully Bend that back and then slide
the the socket back on it and see what
we get so I straighten up the pins best
I could and I got the socket back on how
it's supposed to be but whenever you
turn it on you don't get any monitor so
I have hooked up our multimeter to the
monitor power and the monitor is getting
power it's just not coming on so next
thing I'm gonna do is pull out the
monitor chassis and see if there's a few
or something that burned up okay so I
pulled the monitor chassis out this is a
Motorola kV 700 a black and white
monitor chassis the fuses are under here
but they're not blown so this thing as
you saw wasn't doing anything so start
looking at it and there I see this this
transistor here q18 that has like oil
all over it let's see what I've even did
with it drop it
well it's here somewhere anyway it's a
tip TI p32 a transistor and so this is a
TI P 32 C transistor so I look it up to
see if this 32 C is the same as the 32 a
and so looking around yeah this is just
kind of a higher power version but the
pins don't line up right and so the
middle ones a base and once a collector
and one that's an emitter and it's
labeled on the board collectors on one
side emitters and outside the bases in
the middle well on the tip 32 it's not
like that the base is on one of the ends
so I'm thinking why is there a tip 32 in
there that doesn't even make any sense
that you know they didn't have them back
then so and so this is an old monitor
that's from the 70s so I find the
schematics and look it up and that's
supposed to be what Motorola called an a
2 J transistor motorola used their own
transistor numbers and then didn't tell
anybody what they were right so you
can't buy an a 2 J transistor you have
to figure out what it was well somebody
has worked on this monitor and put a tip
32 in there and it ain't right that's
not what's supposed to go in there so an
a 2 J other people have figured out is
actually a 2 in
4,400 transistor so somebody for
whatever reason and this is all in the
power supply too by the way
so without this working nothing would
ever power up somebody has put the wrong
transistor in they're working on it
whenever I took the the monitor out all
of the screws were missing out of it so
somebody's had this board out of there
working on it so they must have sent it
off to somebody and they didn't know
what they were doing and then if you
look look I haven't looked this one up
yet so we got the same thing going on
there someone has put a tip 32a in right
there which that's not the right
transistor band doesn't add up
see how it says on the board collector
on one side and emitter on the other
side that's not how a tip 32 a is even
configured so that chips probably wrong
so I checked all the fuses are good
the the the three transistors mounted on
the side are still good no problems I
can't find any resistors that are burnt
up
but then as I'm working through the
power supply section I can't find the
diodes are fine resist respond resist
respond as I get over here that's the
wrong chip I'm in the wrong transistor
so that's a big no-no so it might have
burnt up some other stuff these this one
resistor that connects to it here it
looks a little weird so I'm gonna check
that on the schematics so I'm just
checking through the power supply
section and see if I find more stuff
that looks like it's been tampered with
there replaced and checking all the
resistors to see if anyone's burnt up
because we got a situation where there's
no power so I get this big resistor burn
up you know the power we can get through
it and so you wouldn't get any action so
either something like that's going on or
this transistor being the wrong one that
could have definitely done it so I'm
gonna keep working through it and see
what we run into basically the way these
work is they create a power a voltage
that comes onto the board
and then it runs the the flyback which
creates several other voltages that runs
everything else so if that main voltage
coming in a screwed up nothing will work
and we still could be in a situation
where the the tubes broke or something
so but we got to get this at least
glowing first where we plug it in and it
makes a bunch of noise or something to
tell us that the tubes screwed up but
I'll keep working through it and see
what else I can find
so there's the two transistors look how
this thing's got like grease and oil all
over it all you know what happened there
I guess it burn up I don't know but I
don't even know what happened they had
replaced one of the power supply
transistors with the wrong one and then
they had replaced one of the horizontal
deflection circuit transistors with the
wrong one Salomon you look in the manual
and it tells you
Motorola's code number and then if you
search around online you see the
cross-reference so this is supposed to
be a 2 in 3440 and they had put in a tip
32 which isn't anything even similar
and then that one was supposed to be a
to end 4,400 and they'd put in the tip
32 same thing Oh
and I looked around I couldn't find any
resistors or anything else fried so it
could be that we've got a situation
where the tubes bad or broken and it
screwed up some stuff on the board and
burn up a couple transistors and they
found them but put the wrong ones in and
so now whenever we turn it on we're not
getting anything because those
transistors aren't right or something I
don't know but I know one thing we're
gonna go try it back in the machine so
we'll see if it does anything okay so we
have mounted the monitor back in I'm
gonna hit the power switch let's see if
it sounds different now the tubes
cracked if we're getting power if the
tubes cracked what you'll hear is like
it's like all kinds of crazy stuff
coming from the tube which is basically
air hissing in where it should not be so
let's see what she does may hit the
power switch okay I hear how voltage
yeah look real close at the neck do you
see the neck look let me see if I can
get a good video on it you see the
orange in the neck that's what you want
that's the heater voltage
well I'll be damned well our tooth
wasn't broke it was just for whatever
reason they had put two of the wrong
transistors in dad's crazy I don't even
understand how that happened so you saw
what happened you saw the let me turn
off the lights because it'll look better
here and I'll show you the neck glow a
little better maybe links it from the
back better with the lights on okay so
you saw what happened it wasn't working
monitor wasn't doing anything I checked
real close a couple of the pins were
bent on the neck board I'm on the tube
so I replaced I straightened out the
pins and put it back on we're getting
nothing no net glow nothing so I take it
in the backroom start looking they've
obviously replaced two transistors and
that was all that it looked like it been
replaced that they had replaced the two
transistors with the wrong damn
transistors weren't even close
they had gunk on those two transistors
that look like oil or something took the
two transistors out put the right ones
in BAM the monitor comes right up that's
one of the weirdest ones I've done folks
let's see if we can adjust the
brightness knob is right here on these
so basically you turn it up until you
can see the background and then you turn
it back down
that's about as bright as you can get it
awesome
so let's point it up and I believe it
sounded to me like the thump-thump
thump-thump thing is gone right so we
have done how many videos now showing
you how to fix Space Invaders sound
problems looks like this is gonna be
another one so no thumping so nope no
background sound so what i'm gonna do is
i'm after you make like 30 shots or
something something like that excuse me
how do you make like 30 shots or
something is when the guy comes out okay
so the explosion sound works the UFO
sound works hmm so the thumping came
back after a while so what's a let's
look at that sound board a little bit
close to safe or something not making
good contact or something so here is our
second is the board that makes all the
sounds it has a sticker up here where
it's been repaired by eldorado games
about ten months again so at one point
this thing worked fine so you can see
they replaced a chip here which is
actually I think that's the preamp and
then this is the sound amplifier
then you've got a chip here in a socket
so I'm wondering let's look on the
schematics there's a basically this
motherboard sends a signal under the
board and it makes off sounds work
so let's look on the schematics and see
what area does that if it's this
socketed chip it may just be dirty or
something but I think it it might read
this one so let's check out the
schematic see if we can track down why
the thumping doesn't work and then comes
on after a while and just for
completeness sake this is the the
schematics of the manual that I was
looking at q18 is one of the transistors
that they were replacing you can see
this is in the power supply section
which creates 273 volts in the 12 volts
so this transistor is a 2 J and they had
replaced that with a tip 32:8 we put the
right one in and then come down to this
is q8 this one had also been replaced
with the tip 32 a but it's not a
murdered roommate it's an a 5 F which is
a 2 in 3440 completely different nothing
like it so we replaced this one with the
right one and apparently that's what
fixed it so let's scroll through to the
sound alright so we've done several
videos on how to fix sound in space
invaders so basically what you have in
the schematics is these are signals
coming from the main board and they go
through a big socket on the edge of the
thing so it could be that it's trying to
send the signal through and it's not
making good connection because that
sockets dirty or something so we're
gonna remove the daughter board and plug
it back in just in case and then the
signals run over here and they run to
these two chips not showing that good so
it runs up here to this chip which is a
74 174 at efore and it runs to this chip
which is a 74 174 at e5 I believe that
says okay and so the data lines run to
both chips
so if it was a bad connection down here
these are the four lines that make the
thump thump thump thump thump thump
thump right here right so if it was a
bad connection from the socket
you would probably lose one thump you
follow me because there's four different
lines that trigger the four thumps and
they all run through these resistors and
they all run through these diodes and
then they run over here to this 556
timer chip and then they run through
this m3 and there's a couple caps here
involved in things like that okay and
then those same data lines the same ones
that make it do the thumb thumb are
these d4 d3 d2 and d1 lines they also
run up here now d1 comes over here and
it let's see what it does I don't see
what it does d2
d2 runs through here and makes the
missile sound well all of that's working
fine and it never fades in and out
d3 comes through here and it makes the
explosion son sound well that's always
working fine and it never fades out and
then d4 comes through here and it makes
the invader hit sound which works fine
it never fades out so that kind of
proves that d1 d2 d3 and d4 all work
fine so then you you come down here to
e5 and you get the same thing going on
and then you've also got d0 is handled
by E 5 so d0 runs the saucer hit sound
well we haven't hit the saucer so we
don't know if that's working right or
not so it could be that this chip is
acting up right because everything's
common to this chip or it could be that
this timer chip is acting up because the
four thumps are common to the timer chip
556 chip or it could be that these
capacitors are acting up because they're
common to that too
so what we're gonna do is we're going to
pull it out we're going to swap these
capacitors because that's real simple to
do and then we're gonna pop it back in
and see if that makes it work another
thing that kind of makes me lean towards
the capacitor is that it's heat related
so when that first comes on it doesn't
work right but then after it's on a
little while it heats up a little bit it
starts working right
that's classic capacitor stuff
capacitors change their capacitance
value if they're going bad after they've
been on a little while and stuff you
know so kind of sounds like caps so
we're gonna replace those two caps first
and then slide it back in those would be
real simple to change to will slide it
back in and see if that fixes our
problem and then I'll play it to and see
if I can hit the saucer before the thump
fades in so you know what I mean so like
if the thump is missing and the saucer
hit isn't is missing well then it kind
of points towards this chip because
that's all this chip handles but if the
saucer works the whole time but the
thump doesn't work for a while then it
has to be something that's just common
to the pumping but we'll pull it out
first then we'll watch
those two capacitors because that'll be
easy so here is our timer chip our 556
chip someone has already replaced that
is the one that makes the thump-thump
thump-thump happen along with these four
diodes here thump thump thump thump
thump thump thump them and the caps that
we are talking about that are
questionable are these two caps actually
right here because if you look on the
schematics they're after h3 4.7 tantalum
10 MF tantalum which is these two caps
so we're going to swap those first and
then if you look real close at this 556
see how it's not soldered in there all
that great see that top pin that's
connecting it to the to the 5 volt I
think so
that would also cause a problem if
that's like an intermittent connection
so we're gonna re solder all that stuff
now we could just replace that chip but
once they've replaced it and that's a
fairly new looking chip somebody's done
it in the last couple of years once
they've replaced it it's probably fun
you know you're probably not going to
have the same chip die on you right
after it's been replaced you can see
that bottom that bottom trace looks a
little weird too so we'll reflow some of
that stuff we'll swap these two caps out
with nice new electrolytic caps and then
we'll pop it back in there and see if
that fixes our issue where it doesn't do
the thumps whenever it's first turned on
okay so I think we've got it so I've got
it turned off all I did was replace
those two caps irie flowed the solder on
that 556 timer chip and I put it back in
the machine so we're gonna turn it on
and I'm gonna coin it up before the
monitor even warms up we're gonna try to
start it immediately to see if it's a
you know if the thumping is is there
from the very beginning yeah okay so we
haven't tried all of the sounds yet
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the only one left is the extra man if
you get one and the sounds are a little
weird like this one when it shoots and
hits them it sounds a little different
than some of them that's because of the
way the sounds are created it's not a
digital sound it's an analog sound so
it's
we gotta get our even winter free
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alright so I test it again after the
customer left just to make sure that
everything was as I thought it was and
it was true
whenever I got a bonus missile base
which is what they call it it did not
make a noise now look at this
it's h4 number the 556 timer which is
the same one that makes the thump-thump
thump-thump so we're onto something here
people we've got our thump-thump
thump-thump back but we don't have our
bonus missile base but I just restored
that chip so I probably messed something
up I don't know I don't know if it was
working beforehand though but so what
I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go and use a
multimeter and check all of these
connections and then I'm also gonna
check this cap right here - that doesn't
look right
all those money's already replaced it so
I'm gonna check all the connections and
everything and then worst case we might
have to swap that chip again but I think
it's just gonna be a bad connection
and then if you look the output of it is
right here it goes into this m3 this h3
chip which is also what this one goes
into so we've got a problem with either
h4 or h3 on
both types of sounds I'm just gonna
check all this with a multimeter and
we'll see if that fixes our problem by
the way this is the worst sound to have
a problem with because it takes you it
takes you a while but you have to play
it for three or four minutes to get a
bonus missile base to see if it's
working or not but will a will
multimeter it all out and see what we
come up with so I went ahead and just
replaced the chip it didn't like the way
it looked I put a socket on it too like
it should have had before
and put a new one in and so we're gonna
try it out we won't know if the problem
was the connections or the the actual
chip but we'll see if this fixes it
hopefully so we need our thump thump
thump sound to still work because it's
controlled by that and we need our extra
missile base sound to still work we're
back up and running let's see if our
thump still works yes now I was saying
earlier if some of the sounds sound a
little different it's because they're
analog sounds they're not a digital
recording so they're made with resistors
and capacitors and little amplifier
chips and you saw you saw the resistor
is a slightly different value
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so we get three bases see it's a bottom
shortly we will win another one but do
you see how that happened was that the
right sound was that the right sound so
the noise I heard was from that but it
also gave me an extra base but I didn't
hear the sound so I still don't know
unbelievable
so you get one of 1500 points so we're
gonna die and then try it again I think
it's still messed up
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all right
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all right 15 other points here we come
here we come people yes I got another
base no sound we got to go back folks we
got to go back so if you look on the
schematics it actually works through
this h3 chip twice before it makes its
thing and I checked all these resistors
all the resistors are the right value
are close enough and then the thumb
thumb thumb thumb also went through the
h3 it very well could have been h3 so we
have swapped age three it's a 74 11 so
we'll we'll see if that gets us anywhere
hopefully keep your fingers crossed
people this video is gonna get really
long if this doesn't fix it
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okay folks we've got two bases here we
go we're close here we go all right how
sweet it is
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it was the 7411 chip scene in a million
times
pretty wild huh but we got it going
there so there there we go so we fixed
the monitor and then we fixed the
thump-thump-thump was missing and the
other one was missing now it could be
that that 7411 chip was the problem with
both and it was just a after it was on a
while that got a little better who knows
but I think we're good now so if you
liked the video give us a thumbs up now
oh I was gonna say earlier I didn't
fully explain it when these came out so
the way they make their sounds as analog
so they have resistors and capacitors
and stuff Center do they do it with
voltages running through an amplifier
chip right so my whole point is
resistors so say if say it was designed
where in this one spot it needs a 1000
ohm resistor well they're never exactly
1000 ohms they have a tolerance so most
time are 5% or 10% which means it can be
900 ohms or it could be 1100 ohms if
there's a 10% tolerance well if you have
a 900 ohm resistor in it and one board
and an 1,100 ohm resistor in another
board those two are going to sound
slightly different wherever that
resistor is because it's it's changing
voltages and waves and things like that
so if you get one of these and like this
one the sound is a little bit different
than some of the other ones I've heard
if you get one of these and the sounds
are just
slightly off on some of the stuff you're
not ever gonna be able to fix that
because it's just minor little things so
there you go leave your comments below
tell us what you think give us a thumbs
up like we said for taking the trouble
to film it for you and we hope this
helps you fix your space invaders or
space invaders deluxe if you get one in
and we'll see you on the next video