How to rappel with NOT enough rope

HowNOT2
100 followers
Oct 11, 2023
How would you tie two very different diameters of ropes together???
Sign up for our emails and get access to our store and giveaways. https://www.hownot2.com/sign-up
👉 Learn and shop at https://www.hownot2.com/
👉 10% off Rocky Talkie by clicking https://www.rockytalkie.com/HowNOT2
👉 Our merch is at http://www.hownot2swag.com/
👉 1000 Patrons makes us viable https://www.patreon.com/howNOTtoHighline
👉 1 time donations really help also https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/slackcessfund
I wonder how many people will judge me for this.
I'm about to rappel a 65 meter rappel with a 60 meter rope and that doesn't work.
And so we're going to talk about how not to hike for 5 miles with two 60s as some recommended
on Mountain Project.
So I brought some 2.5 millimeter 1⁄8 inch Dyneema string and it's very slippery so it's
hard to hang on to and it also doesn't tie knots well and that's we're going to explore
is not blocking the rappel station up here, rappelling off one strand and using this as
a pull line and canyoneers are like, yeah, what's the point of this video?
Well some climbers, they don't know this trick and they bring two 60s up here when you barely
need 140 meter.
All right.
So Andrew is going to go first and what we have here are two quick links and that is
what we're rappelling on.
She is only going down one strand with her ATC, can that be a Grigri or whatever.
Definitely always cross load your carabiners.
I should do that.
And always put a knot in the end of your rope.
Always make sure your stuff works before unclipping your personal anchor.
This is more or less the same rappel, whereas we both be able to go down right now if we
knew we were able to reach.
But because I don't know how my Joker 9.1 black rope's middle is, I don't know if that'll
reach for her.
And instead of me guessing and then she has to mid-cliff do a weird down climb.
Yeah.
Well I'm just going to rappel her, pretend that was locked.
I'm going to edit that.
That was locked the whole time.
I'm just going to more or less belay her.
So when you get to the end, let me know if you're on the ground and if you like the length.
Because if you do, that's when I'll tie my Dyneema to this end.
You're down there.
I see it.
Is it?
No.
It's low angle.
It just seems silly to take more rope than you need only for rappel.
If you can use this trick, if this is a really long hike and only one pitch requires this.
He said we sound silly for bringing an 80 meter up here.
The cameraman feels judged.
We're assuming my way works.
And if I made the video, it did.
If it didn't, it'll never make it on YouTube.
How's the rope length look?
Definitely not long enough to make it.
I hate when she says that.
See, I can give her rope, but otherwise you'd have to do some weird shenanigans in order
to make sure that you have enough rope.
And this is just to set rope length.
One option is to give way more rope than I need.
I know this is how much rope I'm going to need.
And so I'm going to go down this rope.
And so I'm going to do a knot block.
I'm just going to do an eight.
You can do a butterfly.
There are probably several ways you can do this.
We'll cover those later.
Now, the reason I can do an eight here is it's not going to pull through those quick links.
And one option I could do is I could clip the back of the eight.
This is more of the canyon thing to where you've really made sure that'll never go through
those quick links, because I don't want that knot to get stuck inside.
And then I can't pull this with my little string.
But basically, my string is going to extend this side of it, and then I'm going to pull
it down.
And I don't want to have any issues.
But what I've seen many climbers do is they do that because you're never going to be able
to pull that through.
And if it does, it's still a closed system.
Now, do I want to make sure that it's not going to get stuck in those repel rings, those
quick links?
I think that is super good enough.
So now I'm going to repel the correct side, and I'm going to make sure that I'm repelling
the correct side before I take my personal anchor off.
And I check to see if I can pull it down.
This is where this video gets interesting.
How do you tie two ropes together that are of dissimilar diameters?
Let's explore that together real quick.
So instead of tossing all this down the mountain, I'm going to respect it and keep it with me
in the meantime.
This is a sheet bin.
This is what some people would consider appropriate for two different diameters.
And so you go through the bend, and you go through here, and it's going to be constricted.
I go under it.
That is a sheet bin.
And since I don't have a sheet, I'm going to do a double sheet bin.
And that's where maybe a thinner diameter can thrive.
Let's find out if this is true, because if I can't pull my rope down, that would suck.
So if you want to see a magic trick as I pull this down, practice at home before you do
stuff up here.
So I'm just going to tie, in this case, overhand that much, and then tie a figure eight.
I think that's like a frost eight.
I don't know.
Put that in the comments, because I don't know what certain knots are called.
I just use them.
And so now I'm going to tie a figure eight, which is just killing half the audience right
now, that I don't know what knot to use, but I really need to pull my rope down reliably.
I'm just going to literally trace an eight back onto this.
So we're going to now go back to the lab, and we are going to test which knot would
have been appropriate, and how bad that sheet bin would have been if I just kept it, or
did a triple, or whatever.
That, I can pull that down.
So now I'm going to keep that with me, and I'm going to start rappelling.
One test before you remove yourself.
See ya.
Can I have my phone?
Yes!
------- thing!
Flick it in a bag, don't coil it the way I did.
And it's always better to do this when there's people at the belay station who can lower
the rope for you if you screw it up.
We could have done this way faster since they were up there already, and I wouldn't have
had a video.
So this is pretty hard to hang onto, and so one thing I could do, wrap it around a carabiner,
and pull.
If it's fine or loose, you could just use those gloves that really protect the palms
of your hand.
It worked.
Not pretty, and really fat.
See ya later!
You should have used a butterfly!
Let's go explore some knots in the lab.
Now I know this is strong enough, because all I'm doing is pulling it down, but we will
break test this first because it's, well, already put together.
And then we'll explore some of the other knots that I could hypothetically have used.
Now you're probably wondering why I have a perfectly good, nice, triple-rated rope that
I'm breaking.
It's because I have a chunk of it from Bial for testing Unicor, where the sheath is glued
to the core.
Whoa!
God!
Oh, that's terrifying!
I abused the crap out of it.
It is the next video I'm editing after I finish this one.
Which it's also exciting that we finally have some Bial ropes in our new store, and if you
don't know we have a new store, well, we do.
And the only people who have access to that is people in our email list.
And all of the people in our email list this weekend will be able to access the store finally
after 100 days of getting that open.
Now my patrons have helped me break test the store with over 100 orders, and we have shipped
every day for the last 40 days the day people have ordered it, because we take that real
serious.
And 90% of what people are ordering, we are shipping priority, because I think five or
six days for shipping is BS, to be honest.
I'm going to be giving away this number six to somebody who opened up their email from
this last Saturday.
All you have to do is open emails to be entered to win.
Beep at gmail.com won this one, and they're going to get a gift card for the equivalent
of what this is worth if they're just, I don't know, not into off widths or something.
So go sign up for our Saturday emails, and in the welcome email, I'll make sure that
you have access to the domain and password so you can get on the store as soon as you
do.
Okay, so we have a figure eight right there, figure eight right there, and then I copied
it on this side, and I copied it on this side.
So let's find out what breaks first.
3.26.
Well, I'm glad to see that this rope is stronger than this one.
It broke in the knot.
There's the other side.
Now, I think the sheet bend could work if you're not cyclically loading it.
So let's do a double and see how strong that is if it doesn't slip.
That's not good.
That's not holding.
But it is about almost 100 pounds of force.
The problem is if you're cyclically loading.
Now, if you had a long enough tail, in theory, that would be okay, but I don't know, I'd
want to lock it off better.
What do you guys think of sheet bends in this situation?
So what if we just do a flat overhand, which is not all that uncommon?
Now, I don't know if that knot is big enough to get stuck in the quick links because you
are only repelling this side.
That's not ideal.
That might work.
So now, let's just try a fisherman's knot.
No, no.
Oh, no.
Well, that actually might have worked.
So I'm genuinely curious what knot I should have used.
What I did use worked, but it doesn't seem ideal.
You kind of don't want your knot too big so it doesn't get stuck and stuff on the way
down, but I kind of wanted it big enough to not go through the quick links.
And to save you the trouble from commenting that I should have used a third hand, you're
right.
I should have used a prosthetic as a backup if I'm going to not use an assisted breaking
device.
Anyways, let's see what knots you guys come up with, and we'll make that a follow-up video.
In the meantime, we did an alpine butterfly knot video that I think you might enjoy if
you made it through this video.
Oh, wow.
It didn't break.
