Core shot climbing rope tested

HowNOT2
100 followers
4 Video Views·Dec 8, 2022
My friend Kyle Lovett had his climbing rope core shot on a highlining trip and so we tested how strong it was. Stronger than we thought but way weaker than a new healthy rope.
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How strong is a core shot rope? A Kern mantle rope like I have here is a outer sheath with some
core and the outer sheath protects the core. Sometimes when a rock rubs or falls and hits
the rope you can damage the outer sheath showing the core making it core shot making it look
something like this rather than something like this. We're going to show you in this episode
how strong a core shot rope is. Hi I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to a slack snap episode where we are
going to break test this rope that was donated by Kyle Lovett. They went on a highlining trip
and used a rope for an anchor and it rubbed rock and ropes shouldn't rub rock but when it does
it does something like this and it shows the core and damages the outer sheath. So we want
test to see how strong that is even though if it continues to rub that's a very big problem.
If you found it like this or you're jugging up a rope hypothetically with a 90 pound pack going up
the death slabs on half dome and you realize there's a four foot section of nothing but core
showing just hypothetically you might be scared. So let's find out if you're gonna die. So the
that we did was in two figure eights on either end isolating the problem. This is a 10 millimeter
we believe a static rope that is about 10 years old. The first rope that we tested had a core
shot that wasn't super obvious but you know you could see that the outer sheath was damaged.
It doesn't exactly look like Mel Gibson in the movie Braveheart but it is damaged. So we pulled
out on the slack set machine and we got 8.95 kilonewtons and then we took the other sample
that we had and that had a much larger exposed core shot section very much like the Passion of
Christ and we got eight kilonewtons. Now in order to compare apples to apples we broke two spots on
the rope that were not damaged and we got 11.95 and 11.25 kilonewtons on those two samples. So we
basically got 20 to 30 ish percent decrease from a rope that isn't damaged to the one that is.
Now that is with this rope that should be a lot stronger if it is technically a 10 mil static.
There is a chance with this kind of a pattern that it is dynamic but the numbers don't change
from what it was to what it went to still exists. So the reason for the lower number regardless of
what kind of rope it is is because it is well used worn and looks like it's been sitting out in the
sun a while. Now you don't exactly want to climb with a rope even if it is eight kilonewtons that
has a core showing. If you're also hypothetically in a situation where you are climbing sideways,
you pull on a rock and it comes off hits you in the leg and then hits your rope right below
your tie-in point could happen. I'm just saying you still need to use the rope in order to get
down and it's nice to know how to bypass your core shot section. So you just tie a butterfly
knot it is a pain in the butt to repel past this or belay with it or I don't know do anything with
it and then the core damaged part would be here and your rope is as strong as it needs to be to
finish doing your project. Now it is important to not climb with that rope again because the outer
sheath is very much like a condom. It is protecting what really matters and that's the core. Ironically
in highlining we do like to be a little bit more risque and we don't have any protection. We are
walking on the fibers that hold us and so we have to put all the burden of protection on the anchor
builders and basically use birth control aka velcro padding in order to protect our webbing
and ropes from edges and rubbing sharp rock or any rock for that matter. Now if you don't like
the fact that your protection could fail you could take all the risk out of it and get a vasectomy
aka slacklining in the park so you feel safer. So in all seriousness make sure you stay safe
out there understand how your rope is being protected with that outer sheath understand
that you're not protected when you're just using webbings or ropes without a sheath and go to the
slack snap chart if you want to see these break tests I believe they're 996 or something like
that you'll see in there you can hit ctrl f and type in core shot and we have over a thousand
slack snap break tests and over 300 bolt busting breaks and it's all on slackline.com where you can
see it all and the videos associated with it raw videos they're quite boring compared to how funny
I think I am in these episodes you can also read the bolting bible and highlining 101 and 102 are
available we are putting out tricklining 101 here shortly building a drop test tower and doing a lot
other things that will improve the quality of the content on these videos we are trying to do even
more break tests maybe 10 20 or 30 break tests per episode and not making them any longer so
you can get more data for having to put up with my jokes I want to thank those who donate I'm
usually begging for money but I want to say thank you to my donors because those who donate are
allowing us to continue to do this slack snap just got updated with hydraulics Bobby's very
excited about that so he doesn't have to reset those pulleys we're going to be doing so many
more improvements because you guys have donated and that is really the only thing that keeps this
channel running because everything is free on slackline.com instead of you smashing your ropes
against rocks make sure you smash that like button and follow like and subscribe on whatever platform
you're watching this on cheers oh what the she's not helping me do my intros you guys
thanks for meowing on command
