We pulled SIDEWAYS on glue in bolts - you won’t believe what happens

Are you twisted out of shape? Find out what happens when you install a bolt out of line or you try to use it for a different purpose and pull it sideways. Find out on this episode of How Not To Bolt Bust. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to my backyard. This is a catio, this is a space net, this is a cat. Meet Puff. Puff likes being involved. So in my backyard we have bolt busters and it's basically a big BFH, a big fat hydraulic with a seven-point anchor, a pump, some hoses, and we're discovering that paracord is actually better to keep it from flying backwards when things break. So we just fixed this 20,000 pound dynamometer, which was sad because it looks waterproof, right? It's not. I left it outside and that cost $900. So I appreciate your donations, but I did research dynamometers. This is the best option for bolt busters and I'm very excited to say that, because I did buy this on eBay a while ago, I did test it with the other dynamometers I know are accurate, but we have a certification of calibration, which is always nice 300 break tests in to know that your dyno is correct. So let's go see what kind of bolts we got. So these are fixed Healy bolts that require a 3 8 inch hole and this is liquid rock 500 and then we wrote the samples here and we are pulling on the outside of this bolt. The spine is here and then on the next three samples we're going to pull them here. So it's pulling favorably if you were trying to do this intentionally and also we're going to find out with fix the bell-shaped fix gluons that are pretty popular and the ones that I like to use myself. We did not notch these in this case because we wanted worst case scenario. So Bobby is going to stand behind the cardio door. I'm going to stand on this side of the equation because everything flies that way and then we have stuff to keep things from going into our neighbor's house. So let's start pulling. Stop. So it's starting to bend at 4.54 kilonewtons, but it hasn't detached from the glue yet. That was really scary. Maybe next. 34.22 kilonewtons. That's stronger than the results we got before. That's stronger than the results. That's insane. Okay, a couple thoughts before we continue. I'm not going to stand behind the bolt this time. Everything goes flying the other way. So yeah, you can judge me in the comments below. But anyways, go to hownottohighline.com if you want to see our bolt buster chart is on there, our slack snap charts on there, the bolting Bible's on there. All these tests eventually make it onto the bolting Bible and the book of numbers. This is actually pretty consistent with some results we've seen where it basically just bends it into the direction of pull and then kind of just continues to break at kind of in the normal way. Steel does not just snap like aluminum. It bends a lot before it breaks. And keep in mind that most bolts are start to bend between four and 12 kilonewtons. The wave bolt, for example, also a thin material. This is a three eighths inch rod. And so these thinner diameters start to bend between four and six kilonewtons. And then they don't fail and like catastrophically fail until way safe enough. But it's not a good practice to pull on bolts sideways. But at the same time, it doesn't in the cases we've tested so far, it doesn't just crack it out of the glue and break it. So that is at 14.8 kilonewtons. So that is pretty cool. That snaps off. What do we get? 33 kilonewtons. It knocked all this stuff over at 33.42 kilonewtons. That's pretty impressive. All right. So it came out just like before. And yeah, that's pretty warm. And at 32.5, we're getting consistently higher results than we did on our other tests. I believe in granite. No, it was in concrete. Yeah. So the MBS is 28. And to be fair, these are breaking higher than they're rated for. These are great bolts, especially for three eighths inch holes. And you can thread a rope through that because the bend radius is more favorable than even the wave bolt, probably twice as much, which makes quite the difference, which we'll do in another episode. Okay. So our next test is to pull on the spine side. So it's like that and not be pulled this way, but just kind of be pulled that way. It like folded over in half. I think it was exactly the same. Well, what is it, Bobby? 30.6. Lower? Science is weird. So this started to bend at 3.5 kilonewtons. Did it? Oh God. At least it slowed down before it hits Bobby. This is a unique bolt in how it pulls out underneath the surface. These all do that, but this bolt is unique in how it breaks halfway down the stem. Yeah. And we got pretty consistent result here. It's still higher than our original test when we pulled normal, but it's low. It's right in the range of our original. It is a range, but it is lower than pulling it unfavorably, which is opposite of what I thought was going to happen. There's a thumbnail. Okay. So that's how we got our thumbnails, guys. I want to talk about this concrete real quick. So rock type, this gets brought up in a lot of comments. I do read a lot of the comments, so please leave comments. I just cannot respond to all of them. This is high strength concrete, basically the strongest stuff they'd let me buy. And it simulates what I would call the average of the rocks that we test. So it's breaking the bolt. It's not breaking the concrete. And so it's giving us a great enough results for being conveniently in my backyard. Now there are softer rocks and there are harder rocks than concrete. It's impossible to simulate all of them, but this does give us a real world enough scenario in order for this to be useful information. We have done tests in granite and in sandstone. We will be releasing more of those episodes as we go along. You can go to Bolting Bible and check it out for yourself. The Bolt Buster chart is on there and on HowNotToHighline.com. Okay. Wow. Is it boring to have everything always breaking the same? Kind of is for us. What do we get? Wow. That's a pretty good result. 32 kilonewtons. Hey, if you watch all these videos or read the whole Bolting Bible or take all of our courses, everything's free. Everything's on HowNotToHighline.com. Please spot us 20 bucks. It does cost us money to do all this. We bought all of these bolts. We poured this concrete and the hydraulics. All of it costs quite a bit of money and we are stoked to do... Our goal was 1,000 brake tests for bolts. We're almost to 1,000 brake tests on Slack Snap. But it really does help when you donate. I only make about 300 bucks a month on ads and it takes about 1,500 a month in order to run this channel. So most of the donations are mine at this point. So let's jump over to the Fix bell-shaped bolts right now. So as you can see, the weld is on this side of the equation and we're going to be pulling on this side, but as much of a sideways pull as you can do. If it is more, there is a chance that if it's perfectly perpendicular, that it would just pull on the top of the bolt, which also has probably a negative result. But we're going to test these, which are also in Liquid Rock 500 glue. And that's been a great epoxy if you're working within the temperature ranges that it allows. Wow, look at all this coning. It's crazy. And then you can see the glue is still pretty solid. I can move it a little. This is fragile. And did it pull it all the way out? Weld didn't break. Oh, wow. Yeah, these welds have actually been really good in all of our tests. So this is the type of shaft that it is. Some of the shafts that we've done have threads on them. These notches obviously are holding well. It scratched up this material a lot. It was as smooth as this inside of the notch. It did not twist it out of the hole. Because I thought it was going to crack it out of the glue and then just slip right out. And it didn't. What'd we get? Holy shit. Really? So this is the Bolt Buster chart. I'm going to go fix Bell in the thing right here. So you can see that we did it here in clean holes with Hilti V3 500 on sandstone. You can see that right here. So that's pretty cool. And it was breaking 45, 58, and 59 kilonewtons. We've also done this test before in concrete, before 10 mil V3 500 glue. It was notched in that case. And 55, 60, and 49 kilonewtons. You can see all this on our Bolt Buster chart. It broke out of the glue. I heard it twist out of the glue. I don't know if you can see it, but this thing's like smoking on the inside. Oh yeah, it's just super dusty. All right. So I noticed, I heard it crack. It disengaged from the glue at six kilonewtons. Or something shifted. I mean, it shifted completely sideways. But then these notches, I think, held it in until we got what we got. And what'd we get? 45.72. Okay, that's gnar. Okay, I feel like bolts really provide great joke material. 42.24 kilonewtons. So Bobby, can we say that people need to chill out if bolts are being pulled sideways? Well, since all of these got above what's stated on the, what's stated on the bolt, I'd say I'm not too concerned with those bolts. Okay, so why would you pull a bolt sideways, you ask, if you're a climber? Because don't you just pull straight down? Well, sure, if you're a climber. If you're a highliner and you put them in, you know, a cliff, on top of a cliff, and you want to take a highline and go a different direction with it, it's been a discussion, kind of an aggressive one, about don't pull sideways on bolts. Which is actually, try not to. Try to put in bolts in a way that can be used in two different directions, if you're trying to share an anchor to go to a highline this direction and in this direction. But it's not that bad. So we also did some other tests, which I want to cover as well, that we didn't do today, but we did a while ago. So last fall, we went up to the middle of nowhere and put some of these in granite. These are eight millimeter twist bolts by BoltProducts.com. Everything else we've tested today is from Fix Hardware. It was before we figured out how to break these because it takes a special shackle. No, a 72 kilonewton carabiner cannot break these. And so we figured, whatever, we will put it in sideways and test twisting them. And that'll for sure lower the strength enough to where we could break them. Well, we tried one and it folds over. So if you're like this and it folds over in the direction of pull, flattens out and then it's close to MBS. So it's not great for your bolts to be installing them sideways. However, it's not as bad as I thought they were. I thought it was actually really bad to be installing anything sideways and pulling on it in the direction it's not designed. Leave in the comments what bolts you think might show the biggest problem. We can do other twisting tests. And if you liked certain things or don't like certain things on this channel, let me know so we can always make them better in every episode. Please donate if you can and go to HowNotToHighline.com to learn and see all of our resources that we've got. And please hit that like button. It really does help us out on the channel. And make sure you follow us on Instagram and TikTok and Facebook as well, because we're posting little snippets of stuff and not always full episodes on those other platforms all the time. Cheers.