Clouds of Smoke Rise Over Kathmandu as Shivaratri Draws Devotees and Renews Debate on Cannabis Laws

BY Rosemary

Thick plumes of cannabis smoke drifted across the banks of the Bagmati River on Sunday as Hindu holy men and thousands of predominantly young devotees gathered in Nepal’s capital to celebrate Maha Shivaratri, one of the country’s most significant religious festivals.

From the early hours of the morning, long queues stretched toward the gates of the revered Pashupatinath Temple, where worshippers waited patiently for a chance to offer prayers to Lord Shiva, the powerful and complex deity revered as the destroyer and transformer in the Hindu trinity. The temple complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the holiest shrines for Hindus worldwide, becomes the focal point of national spiritual life during the annual festival.

Maha Shivaratri, which translates to “The Great Night of Shiva,” commemorates the divine marriage of Shiva and Parvati and is observed with fasting, night-long vigils, devotional singing and ritual offerings. In Nepal, where roughly 81 percent of the population identifies as Hindu, the festival assumes both religious and cultural prominence, drawing tens of thousands of participants from across the Himalayan nation and neighboring India.

While cannabis use remains illegal in Nepal under normal circumstances, authorities traditionally relax enforcement during Shivaratri. The practice is closely associated with Shiva, who in Hindu mythology is often depicted as an ascetic meditating in the Himalayas and consuming cannabis as part of his spiritual discipline. For many devotees, smoking marijuana during the festival is viewed as a symbolic act of devotion rather than simple recreation.

Across the river from the main temple complex, on the wooded slopes of the Bankali hills, saffron-clad sadhus — Hindu ascetics who renounce worldly life — sat in clusters, their bodies smeared with ash and their hair coiled in long dreadlocks. They passed clay pipes filled with cannabis, chanting mantras and blessing visitors who approached them for photographs or spiritual counsel. The scene blended mysticism and spectacle, attracting both pilgrims and curious onlookers.

Young Nepali men formed small circles nearby, openly lighting joints as police officers maintained a watchful but restrained presence. Some women were also seen participating, though in smaller numbers. Law enforcement officials typically tolerate personal consumption in and around the temple grounds during the festival, provided there is no evidence of trafficking or disorder.

Under Nepal’s narcotics laws, marijuana possession can result in prison sentences of up to one month for users, while trafficking offenses carry penalties of up to 10 years behind bars. Despite the strict legal framework, Shivaratri has long represented a notable exception, highlighting the tension between religious tradition and modern drug policy.

Nepal’s relationship with cannabis is rooted in a complex history. During the 1960s and early 1970s, the country became a destination for Western travelers drawn by its permissive atmosphere and ready availability of hashish and marijuana. Shops and tea houses in Kathmandu openly advertised cannabis products, contributing to the city’s reputation as a stop along the so-called “hippie trail.” That era ended in 1976 when the government outlawed marijuana under pressure to align with international drug control conventions.

In recent years, debate has resurfaced over whether Nepal should reconsider its stance. Campaigners argue that legalizing and regulating cannabis cultivation could generate tax revenue, create rural employment and revive a traditional crop suited to the country’s climate. Some lawmakers have proposed legislation to permit farming for medicinal and industrial purposes. However, political momentum has faltered, and no substantive reforms have been enacted.

For now, the annual festival remains a vivid reminder of the enduring cultural and religious symbolism attached to cannabis in Nepal. As night fell over Kathmandu, oil lamps flickered along the temple steps and devotional songs echoed through the complex. Amid prayer, music and ritual fire offerings, the haze of smoke lingered in the cool Himalayan air — a sign of both ancient devotion and an unresolved modern debate.