How to make Waistcoat | Vest Jacket | Ladies and Gents Jacket | Pattern drafting tutorial

Hello everyone, I hope you're well and welcome back to the channel. Thank you guys so much for your love, for your support. I really appreciate it and I wish you guys all the best in this new year. If you're new to this channel, you're welcome. This is Dawn Larry and on this channel, I upload sewing tutorials and pattern drafting. Kindly subscribe and don't forget to put on your notification bell so you get notified anytime I upload a new video. So today's tutorial shall be a pattern drafting tutorial and we're going to be drafting a waistcoat pattern or vest pattern, whichever one. And we're going to be modifying the basic bodice pattern to create our waistcoat pattern. So if you're yet to watch my tutorial on how to draft a basic bodice pattern, I'll put a link down in the description box so that you can do that. So as you can see, I have the front and the back basic bodice pattern here. Although I'm yet to create the side seam and we're going to be doing that together. For the back, as you can see, I've created the neckline, the shoulder slope, the armhole curve and I've placed the dart for the back. So this is the front bodice. As you can see, I've created the neckline, the shoulder slope, the armhole curve and I'm yet to place the dart and the side seam. So after the modification, we're going to be placing the waist dart for the front. So we're going to be starting with the back bodice. And this is our shoulder line. This is our upper chest line. This is the bust line. This is the waist line. This is our center back. And as you can see now, I did not add any zip allowance to the center back, which means we're going to be cutting the center back on fold. So we're going to be cutting the center back on fold. That is why I did not have any zip allowance. So you're not going to be adding any zip allowance to the back. So now we're going to be modifying this back pattern. So the first thing we're going to be doing now is to mark three inches. And this is the standard measurement. So you can make it as you want your own. So we're going to be making use of the standard measurement in this tutorial. So you will mark three inches from this shoulder tip. So you mark three inches like this. So once you've marked that, you will come to the midpoint of your handhold depth. This is our handhold depth. And this is the middle point. So you come to that middle point. And then you will mark two inches from that middle point. So what we're going to be doing now is to create our side seam. And to create the side seam, you divide your bust measurement by four. So the bust measurement I'm working with is 38. Dividing it by four, I will have 9.5 inches. Then I'm going to add one inch seam allowance to it. You don't need to add too much seam allowance. And then I will move to my waistline. And on the waistline, you divide your waist measurement by four. So the waist I'm working with divided by four, I will have 7 3 quarter inch. Then you will need to add the one inch depth allowance. You will need to add it to it. And also I will add one inch seam allowance. Then I will connect this together to create the side seam. Once you've created the side seam, then you will now come to the under the arm. And then you will mark one and a half inch. That is the armhole extension. So you mark it like this. So now that you've marked that, you will now connect the mark on your shoulder slope to these two inches from your middle point here and to this point. So you connect the three together. So as you can see, I've created a new armhole curve for this waistcoat pattern. So you can come in more depending on how you want it. Instead of marking two inches, the standard measurement here, you can mark more than that. So depending on how you want it, you can mark up to three inches. And then you create this curve. So depending on how you want it around here. So now that you have done this, then you will come to your waistline. And at the waistline, you will mark one inch. So you will mark one inch. This is one inch. So once you've marked this one inch, you're going to be extending your dart line to that one inch. Like this. So once you've done this, the next thing you want to do is to mark three quarter inch from the side seam line. Like this. So this is 0.75 inch. You extend the line down. And then you're going to be connecting this line to this dart line. And then we are done with the back bodies. So this is how the back bodies will look like. So all you need to do now is to add the seam allowance of half an inch to the neckline, to the shoulder slope, to the armhole curve. And then to the M line, we need to add up to one inch allowance to the M line. So I will do that now. Then we move on to the front bodies. So I've cut out the back bodies and this is what we have. So we move on to the front bodies. So now we want to work on the front bodies. And on the front bodies, as you can see, we've created the neckline, the shoulder slope, the armhole. The front bodies we have here is without the side seam and the dart line. So for the darts, we're going to be placing the darts after the modification. But the first thing we're going to do now is to create our side seam. So to create your side seam is pretty much like what we did for the front. So you divide your bust measurement by four. And the bust measurement I'm working with is divided by four is 9.5 inches. So I'll mark that plus one inch seam allowance. The same allowance that I added to the back. That is what I will have to the front. And then on the waistline, you will divide your waist measurement by four. So I have 7 3 quarter inch. And then you will add your dart allowance to it. So I will be using that intake of one inch. So I will add that one inch here. Then I will add my seam allowance of one inch as well. So make sure you had your dart intake allowance before you create the side seam for the front. So once you've created the side seam, then we're going to do exactly the same thing that we did for the back. That is what you will do to the front. So you come here, you mark three inches on your shoulder slope. You mark two inches from your middle point, which is here. Then you mark one and a half inch under the arm. And then I will create a new armhole curve. So as you can see, I've created a new armhole curve. And once you've done this, the first thing you will do after that is to come to your waistline. And on your waistline, you're going to be marking five inches down. So as you can see, this is the waistline. And then you mark five inches down. So this is five inches that we have here. So once you've marked these five inches down, then the same inches that we marked for the back. If you remember, at the side seam, we mark one inch. And then we also mark this three quarter inch before the seam allowance. So you first of all mark down one inch like this. You mark the three quarter inch. Then I will extend the side seam line. Just like we did for the back. So once you've done this, then you come to the center front line, which is here. And then you will mark 2.5 inch down. Out of these five inches, you will mark 2.5 inch. So I'm marking 2.5 inches here. And then once you've marked that, you will also come to this five inch that we have here. Then you will mark 1.5 inch. So you mark 1.5 inch. So I will first of all extend this line. So that we don't get confused. So this is 1.5 inch. 1.5 inch that we mark here. Remember, we also mark 2.5 inch here. So you connect these 2.5 inches to this 1.5 inches here. Like this. And then you will now connect this to this point. Just like that. So now that we've done this, the next thing we want to do before we place the waist dart is to create the v-neck line for the waistcoat pattern. Because the waistcoats usually have a v-neck line. So we're going to be doing that now. So to create the v-neck line, you will need to draw a v-shape from this point of your shoulder to your upper chest line. So I will do that by using this part of the curved ruler. Like this. So once you've created the v-neck line, then we're going to be adding a button extension to the center front line. And to do that, you will mark, depending on the depth you want, this is just the basic, depending on the depth you want for your waistcoat, you will need to mark 2 inches down from your upper chest line. So if I mark 2 inches down from my upper chest line from here now to here. So from this point now, I will mark, or you can just make it on your bust line. Since you are going to be wearing a shirt inside it, so you can make it on your bust line. If the distance between your upper chest line and your bust line is not up to 2 inches, just make it on your bust line. So 2 inches from here to here. This is what I have here. And then from that 2 inches, you will mark the button extension. So the standard is between 3 quarter inch to 1 inch. But the diameter of the button you will be attaching will determine what you will have. So I will work based on the standard and I will just mark 1 inch from here. So can you see that? So once you mark down 1 inch, first of all, I will extend the line from the center front to that 1 inch. So this is 1 inch. And then you will need to also extend the neck line to this 1 inch. Just like that. So we are almost done with the pattern. Then we move to the down part which is below the waist line. So below the waist line, remember we mark 2 1⁄2 inches here. So you will mark 1⁄2 inch up again from this point. And then from that 1⁄2 inch, you mark 1 inch button extension. Then I will first of all extend this line like this. You connect it to the upper line like this. And then this point now, you will join it to this point. So can you see what we have now? And you can add up to 3, 4, 5 depending on the button you want to add. So you can add up to 3 buttons. So let's assume we are adding 4 buttons and this is what it will look like. So once you've done this, what we have left is to place the front waist dart. So to place the front waist dart, you will find the middle point from this point to this point. So here I have 8 ¾ inch. So this will be the middle point. So whatever you now have from here to here, which is half of what we have here, that is what you will mark on your bust line to place the dart. So I will just mark 4.35 inch like this. And then I will draw a straight line to connect it. And you will notice that the line is not straight. So this is what it will look like. Slantly. And then you place your dart. So to place the dart, remember we added 1 inch dart allowance here. So we are going to be adding down 1 inch. And then you will connect this to ¾ inch below your bust point. So this is for women. So if you are making this for a woman, that is what you will do. So you will connect it like this. So if you are making this for men, you will need to extend this line to the chest line. To the upper chest line for men darts. So you will move this line instead of stopping here. So you will move the dart to the upper chest line. So whatever you measure here, you will also measure it on the upper chest line. Extend the line and then you extend the dart line to that point. You can see it is very easy to draft this pattern. And also it is very easy to sew it. So I will go ahead now and add the seam allowance around this pattern. So I will add ½ inch seam allowance to the neckline, to the shoulder slope, to the armhole. We've added 1 inch to the side seam. And then to the M line, you will add 1 inch seam allowance to the M line. And also to this part, I will add ½ inch. So I will go ahead and do that now. I will cut it out and I will show you how it looks like. So guys, this is what our waistcoat pattern looks like. So for the front, we're going to be cutting out two pieces for the front. And then for the back, we're going to be cutting out just one piece because we're going to be cutting it on fold. And also if you would like to add a pocket, maybe a welt pocket to the front, this is what it will look like. So this is where you will position the pocket. So it will be ¾ inch. You can see this is our waistline. So from the waistline, we mark ¾ inch above the waistline on this dart line. On the center dart line. And then you draw your pocket line just like this. So guys, we've come to the end of this tutorial today. I hope you enjoy watching it and I hope you find it helpful. If you find it helpful, don't forget to give it a thumbs up. Leave your comment down in the comment section. And also let me know in the comment section if you would like to see how to make a waistcoat or vest using this pattern. And also this pattern is applicable for both men and women. So you can use it for both men and women using the same method. Just like I explained that if you are making it for men, you will need to extend the dart line. That is if you are adding a dart to it, to the upper chest line. So that is just the difference. And also for the women, you can make a princess line or darts. So depending on how you want it. So guys, thank you for watching and I will see you guys in my next tutorial. Have a wonderful day. Bye.