How to draft shirt pattern | Shirt Pattern drafting | Women shirt pattern making

I am going to be drafting a shirt pattern and the method I'll be showing you today is applicable for both men's and women's shirt patterns The only difference is going to be the waist That is if you want to add the waist that's the woman's shirt pattern If you are new to my channel you are welcome On this channel I upload sewing tutorials and pattern drafting every week Please subscribe and don't forget to turn on the notification bell so that you get notified Anytime I post a new video so guys let's get to work To get started you're going to need your basic measurements which are your bust measurement your waist measurement and your hip Measure your shoulder measurement and your desired shirt length measurement so once you've taken your body measurements we're going to be starting with the back bodies and you're going o be drafting out your dartless back bodies just like I have here if you haven't watched ye My video on how to draft a basic bodice I'll suggest that you watch that so that you have a better understanding of what we are going to be doing So what I have here is the basic Back bodice without darts and without sizing as you can see I've created the neckline and I use three inches for the neck width and one inch for the neck depth which is for the bac and I've also created the armhole curve as you can see here so once you've done this the The next thing we want to do to this basic pattern is to modify it so we can add some of his allowance o this pattern so that when you make your shirt you will feel comfortable in it so we are going To start with the neck line so at the neck line at the neck depth here you're going to be adding the ease allowance of 0.25 inch and then to the neck width you're going to be doing the Same thing so you had 0.25 inch of ease to the neck width as you can see here and then we're going to Connect this point together so this will be our new neckline for the back once you're done then we move to the shoulder slope so at the shoulder slope you're going to be adding half an Inch ease allowance to the shoulder slope and then you come down to the under the hem which is here which is this curved part of the armhole you will go down by half an inch as well So now we are going to be creating a new armhole curve so this is our new armhole curve remember That we extended this by half an inch which is 0.5 inch and also at this part we extended it by Half an inch as well so having done that the next thing you want to do now is to input the bust measurement so we are going to be inputting the bust measurement so the My bust measurement is 41 inches remember that we are going to be dividing this by Four so whatever you get there is what you will input here so we have 10.25 So I will just mark 10.25 from the center back which is here so once you've marked this the We're going to be adding an ease allowance of one inch to the bust line so you add one inch To the bust line and once you've marked that we're going to square down a line to the hip line So I will square it down and I will do that from under the arm as you can see here down To the hip line so we're going this is what you will do so once you've drawn out this straight line we are not going to be inputting the waist measurement because this is a shirt pattern And it's not going to be a fitted top so all you need to do now is remember the waistline This is our waist line we are going to come in by one inch from this line just like this So you will mark one inch this is what you will have then I will connect this to the bust line Like this and then at the hip line you will divide your hip measurement by four so the hip I'm working with now is 46 inches dividing it by four and we have 11.5 inches so I'm just going To mark 11.5 inches and I have exactly what I have here as the hip measurement but if your Horn is more than this line you don't need to worry just measure whatever your hip measurement is and if your horn is less than this just mark whatever you have so it doesn't matter if It's aligned with this line or not but what I'm working on here is exactly what I have here So once you've done that we're going to be adding its allowance of three quarter inch to the hip line and I will just mark that like this so from that point that you just mark You will need to go up by one and three quarters of an inch which is 1.75 inches from that point so and That will be around here and then we're going to square up a line to connect this point together So once you square up this line the next thing we want to do now is to connect the waist line So far so I'll be using this curve ruler to do that so the next thing we want to do now o create a kind of S shape from this point from this point where we square up and then we're I'm going to connect that to the hip line just pay attention to what I'm doing now so you can create it A kind of S shape just like this so just like this and this is how the back bodice looks on our The shirt pattern will look like this if you're making it for men this is exactly what you're going to be cutting out once you've added your seam allowance around it but if you are making For a woman you will need to add your waist dart that is if you want to add a waist dart to this pattern and if you want to add a dart to it all you need to do is just mark it using your Nipple to nipple measurements whatever you have so I'll be using four inches in this case Remember that the back you will need to go up by two inches from the hip line which is around Here and then from the chest line which is this line you will remember that we need to go down by one inch depending on your measurements and then you will need to square up a line just to Connect all these points together so just like this and then you input your one inch darts at the waistline while we leave this like this so before we cut out this pattern we're going To be adding our seam allowance around the pattern I'll be adding three quarter inch to the This is the M line you can add up to one inch depending on how you fold the M line And then we're going to be adding a half-inch seam allowance around this pattern or you can add more than half an inch depending on what you want So I'll just quickly do that now You can see I've added the seam allowance around this pattern so just to let you know that if you want to cut your back shirt pattern you will be cutting this on the fold so you're going to be cutting Just one piece for the back so you'll be cutting your back shirt pattern on the fold so I will be Cutting this out now so I've cut out the back shirt pattern as you can see so once you've cu Lay out your back shirt pattern all you need to do is place it on another pattern paper as you You can see it and then you're going to trace out exactly what you have on the back shirt pattern except the neckline as you can see I've done everything except the neckline The depth for the front is going to be deeper than what we have for the back but we are still going To have the same neck width so I just stopped here I've traced out the neck width so all I need is To do now is to input the neck depth for the front so we're going to be using three and a half inches For the front three inches is the standard measurement and half an inch is going to be our ease measurement for the front that is why I mark three and a half inches so I mark three and a half inches for the neck depth then I will just connect that and create the front neckline So as you can see I've done that and I will just add the seam allowance for the front neck as well so once you've done that the next thing we want to do now is to create the button extension whic It will be the overlap and the facing but before we go into that if you're adding a waist dart to your shirt pattern you can just just like I explained for the back shirt pattern we need To use your nipple to nipple measurement and that is what I mark here so if you are putting a waist dart just to give your shirt a nice shape just mark your nipple to nipple measurement and then you create your dart just like the basic body but if you're making it for men you They are not going to be adding waist darts to the front so once you have done that I will just set it This back pattern aside and then we're going to be creating the overlap which will be our button extension So now to create the button extension the first line we're going to be ruling out now It is going to be the overlap line that determines the width of the overlap the line is going to be the diameter of the button you want to use but the standard button and the The standard measurement for overlap is three quarters of an inch which is 0.75 so I will just mark that here And I will also mark it down and around the neckline and I'm just going to connect these three points together like this and then I will label this as overlap so that we don' get confused so this is the overlap line and remember this is our center front so once you've Draw out the overlap line The next line we want to draw out now is going to be the facing line and we are going to mark one inch for the facing line so I'll just mark one inc So I will label this as the facing line the last line we are going to be drafting out now will be our interfacing line Remember that for the shirts we're not going to be putting erfacing so we're going to be using the same fabric as the facing and the interfacing so we're We are going to mark one inch the same thing we use for the facing that is what we're going to I'll just mark one inch again for the interfacing line so the next thing We want to finish up with the neckline as you can see I finished the M line just extend this line towards the interfacing line so to do this perfectly I will show you how So we are going to eliminate this excess that we have here So once you've cut that off we're going to be folding this so you will fold the interfacing line and the facing line and this is what you will have on the wrong side of your fabric and this will be the overlapping line so this is what we have at the front part and then we're going to Finish up the neckline by just extending it like this then I'll use my tracing wheel to trace the neckline and then finish up the line So this is how the front shirt will look so I'll just label this as the front shirt pattern and then remember we are going to be cutting out two pieces of this pattern Before we finish up with the shirt pattern we're going to make a little adjustment to the front and the back shoulder and the reason for doing this is because the back shoulder line It is usually one inch longer in the back so that it overlaps the front that is what makes it so We're going to do that so I'll quickly cut this out to make these Adjustments: all you need to do now is to mark one inch you mark one inch on the front shirt pattern so if you are marking directly from this line you know this is our seam allowance if you You are marking directly which means you will cut out 1.5 inches and you won't have your seam allowance Again so I'll be marking directly on this seam allowance and then I will just mark one inch and I will still have my half an inch seam allowance in place so you mark it like that Connect the line so that once you have ruled out this line I will cut it out And then I will quickly mark out the half inch seam allowance so once you've cut out this one inch you rule out your half inch seam allowance back and then we're going to be adding This one inch that we cut out for the back pattern so as you can see this is what you will have You're going to be using this allowance you will place it on the allowance just like this then I will just tape this down so you can see that the back is longer than the front shirt pattern and this is the overlap so it will just overlap when you sew it onto the fabric on the front and this is what it will look like so this is what it will look like at the shoulder Area the next thing we want to do if you are making a men's shirt is to add a yoke To it so for the back yoke you will need to mark down four inches from the shoulder line When we are marking down from your seam allowance that means you will be marking down four and a half inches so this will be four and a half inches here and all you need to do is Just draw a straight line like this or you can just fold it and this is what you will get We are going to trace out from this part upward for the yoke and that is what I have here so all you need to do is remember that we've added seam allowance to e neckline to the shoulder and to the armhole all you need to do is add your seam allowance to this line and that is what you will need to fold in your yoke so you will You fold your yoke while you are sewing on the fabric and then you place it on your back This is how it will look so you place it on your back pattern and then you top stitch on it so that is why you need to add your seam allowance at this part of the yoke and also you It can make any design you want for the yoke but that doesn't mean you will have a straight one Back yoke you can curve it a little bit depending on how you want it so guys this is how to draft A shirt pattern as you can see this method is very easy Our next tutorial will be o How to draft a shirt collar I hope you enjoyed this video and I hope you find it helpful don 't forget to give it a thumbs up and leave your comment down at the comment section if you're Yet to subscribe to my channel kindly do so and turn on the notification bell so that you get notified anytime I post a new video Thank you guys for watching once again and I will see you In my next video till then stay blessed