How to make a Simple Jacket with Lapel |Kimono Jacket | Ladies Jacket |Cutting and stitching |Sewing

Hello everyone, I hope you're well and welcome back to my channel. This is Dawn Larry. Today's tutorial shall be the making of this beautiful jacket with lapel. We're going to be cutting directly on the fabric. If you're yet to subscribe to my channel guys kindly do so and also remember to put on your notification bell so you get notified anytime I upload a new video. So guys let's get started. So to get started we're going to be starting with the back and the first thing is to fold the fabric into two. So as you can see I've folded this fabric into two already and what will be the guide for you on what to fold with is the largest measurement you have. So if the bust is the largest measurement that is what you will use. If the hip is the largest measurement that is what you will use. So in my home case the hip is the largest measurement and I have hip of 46 inches with the measurement I'm working with. So that 46 inches or whatever you have you will divide it by 4. So dividing 46 inches by 4 I have 11.5 inches. So from the edge of your fabric here so you will measure whatever you have so I have 11.5 inches. So as you can see 11.5 inches from the edge of the fabric will be around here and then I want to add this allowance an extra allowance to it. So I'll be adding 2.5 inches is an extra allowance to it. So which means I will have 14 inches in total. So from the edge of the fabric to here is 14 inches and then I will fold it like this. So that will be the guide for you. So once you've folded your fabric into two then you come to the to one edge which will be our starting point and then you're going to roll out an horizontal line just like I've done here because we are working directly on the fabric so we don't want to be short of the fabric. So once you've marked this horizontal line which will be the top line or the shoulder line the first thing is to input your desired jacket length. So the jacket length I'm working with is 36 inches. So from here now as you can see it down I mark 36 inches and then you will also roll out the line. So now we have our jacket length from here to here. So having done that the next thing you want to mark is your bust line. So the bust line is 11 inches so I'll just mark 11 inches like this. The waistline is 16.5 inches which is here and then the hip line is 24 inches which is here. So now that I've marked out this line I will just roll it out. So I hope you can see what I've drawn out. So this is the bust line this is the waistline this is the hip line and this is the length of the jacket. So this folded part will be the center back. So once you've done this then the next thing we want to do is to create the neckline. So to create the neckline you first input your shoulder measurement. So the shoulder measurement I'm working with is eight inches so I will just mark eight inches here and then I will use the neck width of four inches. So for the back neck depth I will use one inch. Then from here to here I will draw a curved line to create the neckline. So once you've done that then we want to create the shoulder slope. So for the shoulder slope you come to this shoulder measurement you mark down one inch and then we're going to be connecting this to the neckline. So like that and then we want to create the armhole. So the armhole depth that I'm working with is nine inches so I'm just marking nine inches like this and then you draw a line like that. So to create the back armhole curve you will define the middle point of this armhole depth. So this is the middle point. So from this middle point I will draw a curved line down to this point. So can you see that? So now that we have done this so we're going to be placing the waist dart in order to give this jacket a feminine look. So to place the waist dart for the back so you divide your nipple to nipple measurements you divide it by two. So because we are working directly on the fabric whatever you get we add half an inch to it. So I will mark 4.5 inches instead of four inches. I'm going to mark 4.5 inches like this. Then I will also come to the hip line and mark the same 4.5 inches. Then I will draw a line to connect these two points. So like this. So because this is the back pattern I will mark one inch above the bust point. So that is where the dart will stop for the back. So I will just extend the line to that point and then I will place my one inch dart intake. So which means half an inch at both sides. Then I will connect that to these points. So on the hip line from the hip line you mark two inches up and then you connect this to this like this. As simple as that. So now we've placed the back dart then we want to input our measurements now in order to create the sizing. So to do that you come to the upper chest line know that this is the upper chest line which is the same line as under the arm line. So I will place my tape measure on that line. Can you see that? And then I will input my bust measurement divided by four. So the bust measurement I'm working with divided by four is 10.25 inch. Then I want to add ease allowance to this jacket. So I will add ease allowance of 0.5 inch. That means I'm going to mark 10.75 inch. Then I will now add seam allowance. Seam allowance is different from the ease allowance I added. So I added ease allowance of 0.5. Then I'm going to add seam allowance of 1.5 inch now. So can you see that? So this is the actual measurement. This is the ease allowance and this is the seam allowance. So I will come to the waist line input the waist measurement divided by four. So the waist measurement I'm working with divided by four is 9.25 inch. So I will mark 9.25 inch. Remember we use one inch for our dart intake. I will now add ease allowance of 0.5. And I will add 1.5 inch seam allowance like this. Can you see that? Then you come to the hip. Divide the hip measurement by four. So the hip measurement I'm working with divided by four is 11.5 inches. So I will mark 11.5 inches. Ease allowance of half inch and then 1.5 inch seam allowance. So can you see that? And then we're going to connect this point to this point and to this point in order to create the side seam. And from the hip line we're just going to mark it straight down to the M line. So can you see what we have for the back? So before we cut it out now we're going to be adding our half and ease seam allowance to the neckline because we're going to be turning this with lining. So you add your half and ease to the neckline to the shoulder and then to the ample cuff. So just like this. So can you see that? So to the M line now we're going to be adding seam allowance to the M line. So depending on the allowance you want to add you can add up to three, four or five inches depending on the allowance you want to add. So I will just add the allowance of two inches to the M line. You can even add one inch. Can you see that? Like this. Then we're going to be cutting this out. So guys I've cut out the back as you can see this is what we have. So we go ahead now and cut the front. So now we want to cut the front and to cut the front we're going to be using the back. The difference between the front and the back is that we're going to be cutting the front open and then the neckline will be different and the hem hole. The side seam is the same thing. So what I've done here is that I folded this fabric into two. Another fabric I folded it into two and then I placed the back on it. So at the center back which is here I've drawn a line which will be our center front line. As you can see it's here and then I've placed the back on it. So I have extra inches from that center front line. So I have two and a half inches. So you will need extra inches for the lapel. So once you have the extra inches then we go ahead now and cut out what we have on the back. So we first of all use the back to cut out the front the side and the M line. Then we start working on the front. So I've used the back pattern to cut out the front. As you can see we have the same side seam the same length and then the hem hole. We are going to be making that little adjustment on the hem hole later. So and this is the neck area. So for the neck area from your back neckline you will mark down one and a half inches like this. So once you've marked down one and a half inches then from the neck width which is here. So I will just draw a curved line from here down to this one and a half inches. So can you see that? Then I will cut it out. So once you've cut out the neckline so we move on to the waistline. So on the waistline you extend the waistline from the back so like this. So this is the waistline on the front. So from this line now I will mark half an inch and that half an inch will be like a seam allowance. So I'll mark half an inch from the center front on that line. Can you see that? Like this and then from this half an inch I'm just going to draw a curved line from here through to this part to this part of the neck and then I will extend this seam allowance down to the M line because we're going to be turning this with a lining. So I will extend this half an inch down to the M line. So once we've done that then we can take away the back but before we take away the back you will need to transfer all this horizontal line. So I'll just mark all the line on the front because we need to place the dart for the front as well. So I'm just going to take this off. So you can take the back away and then you'll transfer all the line the bust line the waistline and the hip line to the front and also the armhole line. So now we are going to be placing the dart. So to place the dart now from your bust line you input your nipple to nipple measurement plus half an inch because we are working directly on the fabric so I'm marking four and a half inches. I will do the same on the hip line then I will connect these two together like this. So from the hip line I will go up by two inches from the bust line I will go down by three quarter inch can you see that and then I will place the dart of one inch which means I'm having one half an inch here half an inch here then I will connect all these points to create the dart. So can you see what we have as simple as this and then moving on to the armhole our front armhole needs to be a bit narrower than the back because our at the front our chest is narrower than what we have at the back so you find the middle point and from that middle point you can mark half an inch three quarter inch or up to one inch is depending on on your measurement or your size. So here from here now I will mark three quarter inch which is here and then I will draw a curve line remember that we've added seam allowance to this measurement from the back so you don't need to be worried again so I'm just going to mark it like this and then curve it straight down to this part like this then I will cut this off and also I will cut this off so I've cut it out and this is what the lapel will look like after sewing it and you see that so now that we've cut it out so we're going to be cutting out the lining so after cutting out the fabric the next thing you will do is to cut out your lining so this is the back as you can see I've cut out the lining for the back and if you notice that the down part of the at the down part of the back the lining is shorter than the fabric so that is what you will do so you make the lining shorter than the fabric so by the time you join the two together you can see the top part that we have the same thing so at the down part the lining is three inches in my own case is three inches shorter than the fabric so so this is the M line the desired jacket length so by the time we fold our our fabric and the lining together this is what you will have so for the front this is what we have for the front as you can see we have a facing for the front because of the lapel so you will use the same fabric or another fabric for the lapel as the facing remember that you cannot use your ordinary lining as the facing because of the lapel so I'm using the same fabric you can go ahead and use maybe a plain fabric for the for the facing but I'm using this and to cut out the facing you can see the way I did my own so make sure this edge is straight and this edge is straight so this part is for the lining part and this part is for the fabric part so this is what I have and then for the down part it is three inches just like the back shorter than what I have on the main fabric and also for the sleeve I've cut out the sleeve we are yet to watch my tutorial on how to draft your basic sleeve pattern I'll put the link down in the description box so that you can watch that so I cut the sleeve down to the elbow line below the elbow line so and I've also cut out the lining for the sleeve so I have two sleeves here so let's move on to sewing it so to start sewing we're going to be starting with the front so first of all we need to join the the facing and the lining together so you will join it together and after you might have joined it together you go ahead and sew your darts so you sew your darts you can transfer the darts to the lining so I will sew the darts separately on the fabric and I will sew the darts separately on the lining so for the back also I will sew the darts separately on the fabric and separately on the lining so I will do that and I will show you what next so I've sewn the darts this is the back so can you see the darts and I've done the same for the lining so the next thing you want to do is to start from the M line so you will place the lining the right side you know the lining now has the right side so you will place it right side facing the right side of the fabric and then we're going to sew and then we're going to sew it at the M line so once you've done that then you will need to move you shift up the lining after sewing it at the M line shift it up then you sew the neckline also then you can also go ahead and sew the side seam so this is optional and once you've done that you will need to pull out everything from the shoulder area so let me show you the front also for the front you will first of all sew the M line like this once you've sewn the M line you shift it up sew the neckline then you sew the the lapel area which is the center front so you sew it down and also you can sew the side so you will be left with the armhole and from there you will pull out everything so I will and do that and I will show you what next so I've done it with the lining just like I explained earlier and this is what we have so once you've joined it at the M line you shift it up turn it at the neckline then at the lapel or the center front area then you can also close it at the side so this is what you will have so this is one part of the front and this is what the right side looks like so this is the other part of the front so this is the back so we have just one piece for the back and this is what the wrong side of the back looks like so can you see that can you see the M line so the next thing we want to do now is to join the front and the back together at the shoulder slope so you will need to turn it at the shoulder slope so you place the right side of the two together like this and then you pick one side you turn it with the lining and then the lining the back lining you will now use it to turn everything together so this is the front this is the back place it together like this and then use this back lining to turn everything together so like this so you make sure you arrange it and make sure everything are lined together then we are going to sew it like this so you do the same thing to the other side so i'll go ahead and do that so i've joined it together at the shoulder and this is what we have at the wrong side this is what we have at the right side so you now go ahead and join it together at the side using the measurement you are working with so i'll go ahead and do that and then i will show you what next so i've joined it at the side seam as you can see it and this is what we have so this is what the inside looks like so can you see the inside so once you've done this then you can go ahead and attach the sleeve to your jacket so after attaching the sleeve i will create a buttonhole just one buttonhole to to the waistline around here then i will attach the button to it so i'll go ahead and do that and i will show you guys the final look this is the final look guys thank you so much for watching till the end if you find this video helpful don't forget to 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