Knit Look Crochet Basket Free Pattern Workshop

Hey everybody, it's Deja from KnitAndCrochetEverAfter.com and today we're making this knit look crochet basket. So it's a crochet basket, but it has a knit stitch look with kind of a knit little edging around the top. It looks difficult, but it's so easy. You're going to be amazed. So we're going to get the pattern down below and talk about our materials and get started. So the things you're going to need for the basket is your yarn and I'm using a special kind of yarn. I'm using t-shirt yarn for this one. So this is fox yarn. I love the logo. I used this for all the baskets that I'm going to be showing you including the finished one of this. I don't know if this is Different. I received these from Fox Yarn a while back online on Amazon. It says it's 100 meters and there's no meters on here. No yardage. So I'm not sure if this is 100 meters but it seems. Way more, like for how bulky this is, I could be wrong, I don't know, but one of these should be able to make this big basket here. If it doesn't look like this when you order it, you might need two. I'm not sure how they're coming right now, so I may have to go order some, but I'm probably going to be giving some away also, so hopefully what I give away is the same as this. Make sure you go follow my Instagram for when I'm going to be giving it away, but yeah, I'm not sure. You can use other yarns. So you can use super bulky, you can use really any size as long as you're using a hook that goes well with it. And by that I mean this is different too. This is special. So this yarn I actually used what's on the ball band which is a 10 millimeter and you can see this thing has got nothing in it and it sits upright no problem. So the 10 millimeter works fine for this but I wouldn't use a 10 millimeter if I'm using super bulky yarn because it won't be as stiff. This stuff is really thick. And it holds up everything with no problem. So if I'm using a super bulky yarn, I'd probably go with an 8mm. I would go a few sizes down so my stitches are really tight. And that's going to give you the stiffness if you want your basket to sit. you know upright without anything in it so make sure if you substitute the yarn go with a smaller hook i would say like two sizes smaller for whatever you're doing and this can really be made in any kind of yarn so you can go worsted weight if you want to make small little baskets it you can totally customize this and you can customize the sizes too so i'll talk about that because you can make the smaller ones with the t-shirt yarn as well so we'll talk about that in just a little bit bit but Yarn, 10 millimeter hook, a huge yarn needle. You'll need a special yarn needle for this yarn. So let me show you this thing. You can totally see the eye. This yarn is really it's pulled t-shirt you know so it's very fat so to get it through you have to have a huge eye on your needle so make sure that you have a really big needle to weave in your ends otherwise you're going to be hating life you're going to have to like figure something out so I'll link to these big guys down below in case you need one. And then some scissors and you're done. So that's all we need in the pattern. So we'll get that all together and we'll go start making it. So to begin I'm going to show you on the small one because it's a little easier to hold up and see. We're going to begin with the base and it's basically on the base basically base we're going to increase each round by one stitch in the stitch repeat. So I'll make more sense when I'm showing you what we're doing but I wanted to show you that you can really Change the size to whatever size you want by stopping your base because once you stop Stop your base and you begin the actual basket portion. that's it that's all you're doing is a base and the basket and you're done and the edging and the edging is super simple when i tell you what it's what it is so really you can make this any size you want and if you want to figure out how big your dimensions are around you're going to measure across your diameter and times it by pi because geometry is important Tell your kids. So the diameter times pi, 3.14. We'll get you your circumference so that's how you can figure out how big you want to go if you're trying to fit something specific so if you really need to make it a certain size to fit something big you can throw in your pillows in there and it's a pillow holder you need to know how big to go that's what you're going to do and the way that we're increasing you can just keep on going and going until you get the size you want so Let's go get into it and you'll see what I mean. Okay so to start the basket off we're doing the base and we're going to do a different kind of beginning rather than a magic adjustable loop. You can totally do that but I'm going to tell you it's kind of hard with this thick t-shirt yarn. If you're using regular yarn it works a little bit better but I found this is the easiest way with this yarn. So what we're going to do is we're going to chain two to start. And I recommend pulling your stitches out on this project, and I'll explain in a second. We're going to start round one, and we're going to do six single crochets in the second. chain from our hook so instead of a magic adjustable loop doing six chains into our magic adjustable loop we're going to do them into the second chain and what i mean by pulling your stitches out so i have a video called the golden rule that talks about if you're a lifter a writer or a tugger i think is the other option i'm usually a writer which means that i make my loops just as big as my hook and it rides right on top of my stitches and i make it no bigger With this t-shirt yarn, I'm going to I'm going to be a lifter. I'm going to pull up my loops and give myself room so that, one, the stitches lay flat, flatter, and it's a little easier to work in later on when you are doing your knit special stitch. So pull those up a little extra to get you some extra room. It'll make everything a lot easier. And the yarn is so thick that it does not matter on the finished project. because you're still going to it's still going to stand up by itself without anything in it this yarn is so thick so let's see i have one two three four five one more and i am going to join my rounds on this one i didn't on my other two baskets i made so i wanted you to see the difference so joining the round i'm going to go under the first stitch and i'm going to pull A slip stitch through and I'm going to tighten it down really good. That's one of my tricks for working single crochet in the round to keep your your rows even like right on top of each other. You got to pull it tight and when you do your chain one So that's the little trick. I have creating a straight seam in single crochet video as well. for the next round pull that tight too. I will explain that in more depth, but we're going to get going on round two. So round two, we're going to double everything up. We're going to work in that same stitch because we're going seam so we have to work into the same stitch to create a like that we joined there's a little hole there so we're a straight up. going to do two single crochets into every round that we come to and there's going to be kind of a pattern that we work for our base and you'll see it in this actual written pattern so make sure you have that available because i'm not going to go over every single round for this one I'll kind of go through it so I can explain it as I'm going but each round we're increasing by six stitches and then we're going to put stitches in between that. I'm not paying attention to what I'm doing. So I'm going to get out one of my baskets that I've already done to kind of explain that process. But I'm also going to kind of walk you through round three, just so you can see what it means about putting stitches in between. So I'm almost here at the end of round two. If you're not sure, you know, do I work into this stitch? You can always count backwards. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. I do not. That is my slip stitch. If I work two stitches into there, I'd have too many. So I'm going to slip stitch over here. And it seems like that's Seems like a stitch, it's really big, so you've really got to keep count, so make sure that you're not working extra stitches, and pulling that slip stitch nice and tight kind of helps with that, and you'll start seeing this little slip stitch ridge that shows up, so it'll kind of alert you that that is a slip stitch and not an actual stitch. So now round three. So for round three I already did my chain one and every round after you're always going to start with two single crochets in the very first stitch and then depending on the round you're on you're going to put stitches in between that and the best way to kind of remember it is the round that you're on. So we're on round three so I need to make three stitches Before I start my next. two single crochets so i have one two that i just did and i'm gonna do one in the next stitch so that creates three total stitches that means the next stitch i'm going to increase again so i'm going to do two And then one in the next one and this kind stitches in the next stitch of helps you where you don't have to stare at your pattern All you have to do is count your rounds so you could say one two, and it's a big old bulb here one two three I'm on my third round. So every little group of stitches should have an increase which is two stitches and one stitch by itself So you continue that around and you will increase your round by six stitches only. You went from 12 stitches to 18 because you're doing this six times around. So the stitch counts are in the written pattern and how many stitches you need to work in between are also in the written pattern if you need them for reference. So I'm going to grab my other one that I've worked on just to kind of go over it. So this one. I didn't join rounds. When you're counting the rounds, so right here is kind of where the next round comes and starts so you can kind of place it, but just kind of find a spot and count your way out. So this is round one, round two, round three. Round four, I need to do two stitches. So let's find, here's a two stitches into one. And then I need to make four stitches total. So I have one, two. Then I put one in my next stitch and one in my next stitch for four. Then again, I have two, one. 1, so 2, 3, 4, so I just keep doing that the entire way around, then for round 5, let's see, there's a double here, so that's 2, 3, 4, 5, then a double again, so that kind of helps you to remember how many stitches you need to put in between each increase, so you're You're gonna follow the pattern for adding those increases until you get to the size. that you want so you can make this as big or as little as you want just make sure if you make it bigger than what I have you get more yarn because you will run out for sure It starts getting easier to tell what the end of the round is when you're increasing because you will run out for sure because I have one stitch here, so I've hit the end of my round because I'm not going to do another increase. So I have 18 stitches. We'll just make sure. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18. And you notice I count the Vs. That's kind of the easiest place to count. Look for these Vs and count those as your stitches. So I'm going to join again and then we'll kind of do the beginning of round four together just so you get the gist of how we count those out. To get this really tight go to the throat. This is kind of all the same size so it's not the greatest hook for making stuff smaller so if you have one with a smaller throat that's better for Squishing down these stitches, but just try to do your best. So again, I'm going back into that same stitch that I just joined, and I'm doing two stitches. two and we're not doing the special knit stitch on the base because there's just no point it's going to be sitting on the bottom so you don't need to fuss because it's really hard to get in the middle of these two stitch togethers so we'll skip those so make sure this is going to cover part of your next stitch don't miss that stitch otherwise you're going to lose one so again we created two stitches we're on round four so we need two more to make four so we have increase of three and then i work the next one in the next stitch. don't work it in the same stitch as stitch three because then you're just increasing too much. it's one increase and then the stitches you need to make that round number. so one two and then next one three and next one four. So this is like the hardest part of the basket. Once we get to the body you're gonna be like oh it's so much easier. So just gotta get through the base, keep on working to the size that you want if you want to do a smaller one to start with just to get the hang of it. But I'm going to make this one as big as the pattern so I'm going to head off camera and work on that and then we'll come back and start the body. Okay, so you finished the base. You now know how to make it whatever size you want. And now we're moving on to the body. And the body, you can make any size you want as well. So in the pattern, I just give the basics and you get the special info if you watch the video. So you can go short and make it like a Throw off or inside your door, you know, throw your keys and sunglasses, make it taller to hold full-size towels. You know, it's really, I went with this size because this is kind of when I ran out of yarn, so that, and I didn't mind the size of it. I was gonna maybe go for the short basket, but then I just kept going, and I'm like, oh, I like this size. This is a good size. Two things. One, The body is worked in single crochet. That's all it is. It's just specially done. It's one little tweak and it gives you this knitted look instead of a single crochet look. But it is single crochet so you have two choices. You either have to join your round if you want a completely flat top and have a visible line where your join is or you can work in spirals and you'll have a little offset where you're joining at the end. Up to you. I don't mind the offset. I'll put that in the back when I'm working it. I like working in spirals because then I don't have to really, you know, sit there and have to join it and make sure I'm joining in the right spot, especially if you're new to crocheting. Sometimes finding the join is difficult. You'll think it's the chain one space and then you'll create a stitch and your basket will start growing. Recommend if you're new to crocheting, use spirals and just kind of deal with that little offset. That's from working in spirals. You'll have the end of the rows a little bit higher than the beginning. So that's just one little caveat. Not a big deal. Both baskets have it. I did it on both. I didn't do anything where I joined because it's just easier. So that's it, so we're going to go make the body and then I'm going to show you the super easy edging and we'll be done. So let's go check it out. Okay I've finished the base of the basket. You can see here are my joins where I've been working all 10 rounds. You can definitely do less than I did like I said before but I did 10 full rounds and now I am ready to move on to actual body of the basket so the first round is very simple we're going to do our chain one again pull that down tight and then work into that first single crochet that's gonna give us nice straight rounds which will make sense when you see The next round and the finished product so we always work into the same stitch that we do our slip stitch into to do that. We're still not working into the stitch to make the knit look stitch because this is just kind of like the transition round and it's going to be way too hard to work into those increases again like I said before. So we are just going to single crochet all the way around the entire basket here. So we're just going to single crochet all the way around and then when we finish this round we will begin the knit look and you'll see what that entails which is super easy. So go ahead and do this round and I'll see you in just a second. Okay, I've done my first round of the body. That was just a basic round of single crochet. Now it's time to do our knit look. So I've already joined. I'm gonna do my chain one, which I'm tightening down as usual. And this is where working your stitches, not super tight also comes in handy because normally that kind of hole that you see right there, that little pinhole of... of light through the stitches. That's normally what we're working into. We usually go through those top two loops to do our single crochet and it gives us that classic single crochet look where there's kind of like this line delineation. Well we're going to do something different. So we are actually going to look for the two v's. So each single crochet we'll use This one here is an example. If you look closely, you'll see a line here and a line here. So it's two pieces of yarn that are coming. together and joining a V and then on top you have your two loops that make up the rest of the stitch so normally we would go into that hole instead we're going to go between this V and there's kind of a little spot that you can get in there that's different so you can see that yarn that's to the right here that's different than this hole that we would normally So by going through this area. We are going to create that knit look. So you don't have to like pull it apart to try to find it because it kind of just works its way in there if you aim for the middle of that V. So I'm just going to aim right in the middle of there and pull up a loop and you'll see it already put me in the right spot. Again, pull your loops out pretty good so that you can get a nice easy way to get in the next round. So again, go right through that V. Pull up the loop and if I pull on it you can see that it found the right spot for me and I finish it off. So this is really what we're doing the rest of the time and you can see already that we're getting that knit stitch look where we're not getting that line between each round it's just kind of continuously going up. So this is not a difficult stitch to do if your stitches are a little tight you might have to work a little harder to get into them but it's a really a fun easy stitch so you don't have to do anything special just aim for the V. My yarn is getting really thin I might have to see if this is a funky part I might have to cut this and go with a different part of the yarn because you can see it's getting kind of weird and frayed right here I'll see how long it lasts let me rip this out a little bit. But, and I've never had this happen with the fox yarn before, so this might just be a funky batch because he would send me like testers to use. I didn't pay for this yarn, he sent it to me. So that's all we're doing. We're gonna just keep on doing these rounds of working between the Vs. Slip stitching and tightening it down with that chain one so that it will create that nice straight seam. I won't go all the way over about straight seams. You can check out my other video if you wanna learn more about that. Ooh, I'm not liking this part of the yarn. These get thicker depending on how long this lasts. May not be happy. Okay, so in the meantime, you continue with your yarn. Hopefully it's better than mine. I just might have a funky round here at the bottom. And... Work around. Do go as high as you want. Follow my pattern if you want the same exact size that I have. Otherwise, you know, if you want a shallow dish, do less rounds. If you want a, you know, really tall basket, keep going. This yarn really holds up well. It really is stiff. So continue on. And then we are going to meet up when you get to the end of how big you want your basket. And I'm going to show you that cool edging that is super, actually super easy. to do and don't get worried because you'll notice like this doesn't look like a basket it's still flat it's gonna take a couple of rounds working those single crochets for it to start to cup up into that basket shape so don't worry that is the normal um the only problem you may have If you're still not used to how many stitches you're supposed to do, you may be adding that stitch at the end. So you can count your stitches as you're going to ensure that you have the right number, but it's really not going to make a huge difference if you add one. You might start to bow out just a tad, but it's not going to make it not curl up. So you will get the bowl basket effect after a couple more rounds. So. Go on, I'll see you in a little bit, and we'll do the edging. Okay, you finished the body, you made it as big as you wanted to, and now we're ready for edging. And if you haven't peeked already at the pattern, it's slip stitching, and that's it. Like literally, it's just slip stitching, and it looks super cool. It looks like you're creating this totally rope knit edge, and it gives you this cool double kind of edge on the inside, so it gives you this thick rim with a cool edge. just by slip stitching. So I'm gonna show you how we wanna take a couple things into consideration that I'll talk about while we're doing it. But then after that, we're done. It's ready to go, except for that whole pesky weaving in thing, which I'll also do while I'm doing the edging so you can see how to do that. So let's go get started. Okay, I have done the side of the basket and it's shorter than what the pattern is. And that's because, remember how I was telling you that the yarn was pretty. thin all of a sudden. It kind of stayed that way. So I worked like quite a few rounds and I just didn't like how small the stitches were. So I pulled them all out and then I doubled up the yarn which fixed it because now these match the bottom stitches. You can see they're pretty much the same size but I didn't get as much height because I'm running out of yarn. So I want to do I'm going to do my row of, or my finishing edge. Now, and just have the basket a little bit less high, which I don't mind because I love me some baskets and I like all sizes. So what I'm going to do is show you the edging and it's so simple that it creates such a cool effect. So I have been joining my rounds, so I'll show you the difference when I'm done with the one that I didn't join the rounds in so you can see which one you like better. But I'm here at my join. I've worked my last single crochet and now I'm going to slip stitch into this next stitch. And I'm not going to chain one because I am going to start creating my edge, which is just... Slip stitching. That's all that is that creates that cool side edge. So I'm going to pull out every time I do it just a little bit. I don't want them super tight because I want them to kind of lay flat along the edge and have lots of room to make it all the way across that entire stitch. So as I'm working, I'm pulling it out a little bit, going under the top two loops. Yarning over, pull through, and then pull through that loop that I just pulled out. So you can, you know, if you want to tighten it down, you can kind of pull and tighten it to make it a little bit tighter if you've made it too loose. So it's still adjustable even after you make it. So again, I kind of pull out a little bit. I go to my next stitch, yarn over, pull through, and pull through. Oops, I lost one of my loops. One of the drawbacks of working two's. strands of yarn especially if you're looking through a camera and not at the actual yarn you might lose a piece so just take it a little slow so we do that all the way around and i'm doing it again get you in the camera here so as we work you'll see that turn sideways and it creates this edge across the front which is really cool so i'm going to keep going around until we get to the end and then we'll fasten off and weave in the ends and i'll show you kind of the difference between the two baskets okay i'm back around and i am right near the end of my round i'm going to do one more slip stitch under here and then i missed one of my loops And then I'm going to pull it all the way out. I'm not going to do a like a slip stitch or a chain and tighten down before I fasten off because it'll leave kind of a bump. So what I'm going to do instead is actually pull and I was playing yarn chicken and I won by barely any. I did not have enough for another round so yay me. So I'm going to pull it out like that and then I'm going to weave the ends in through the chain so that they kind of just overlap each other and there's no visible kind of seam. So let me do that and then we'll show I'm going to show you the side-by-side. Okay, so I'm going to take my handy-dandy... Unicorns and cut this end long enough to weave it in and remember you need a really big needle to accommodate this yarn. So make sure you find like the biggest yarn needle you can find for this weave that in then I'm just gonna go right through this center here So that this other end will come together and kind of overlap and from there I can just weave it in down the middle. You can also separate the two strands so if your needle just is not big enough you can separate them and do one strand each and put them in same area, different area, whatever you want. But I'm gonna weave all these in later because I'm gonna do this a little bit more patiently instead of trying to rip through this thing and I'm gonna show you kind of the side by side and there's a couple where there were joins and stuff so you can see a couple little spots where it's sticking out. You can just use your hook to like push those through or grab it from the other side and pull it through. Those, if you have yarn joins, not a big deal. You can totally hide them. Okay, so let's look at this side by side. So when we did this, we joined the rounds and you can see this visible join. It's nearly impossible to hide this join with this type of yarn. So you'll see kind of of this little dash right here that's where the slip stitch slip stitches happened but But you can see that the edge of it is quite flat. So all the way around, it's one continuous size. Whereas, I'll get this purple one that's a little bit smaller and easier to see. Ooh, knocking stuff over. So with the purple there's no visible join so you can see it's continuous all the way around but where we actually join at the end because it's worked in a spiral their ending part is higher than the beginning of the round so we have a little bit of a dip down so it's just slightly different not a huge you know deal to join or to not join. The biggest difference is how You like the end and if you don't want a visible seam. So for this one you can see this is where we joined at the end and so there's a little bit of a dip but there's no actual join on On the basket itself, and if you're displaying it, you know, this way. You would never know it's not super visible, but that's something to take into consideration Thank when you're making it yourself. If you want that visible join, probably how you're going to display it, you know, 360 display, maybe go for the no join or, you you know, totally up to you. How are you guys? Okay. So we are all done. You finished your basket. very Made it whatever size you wanted and whatever yarn you wanted. It's all what you have chosen much. and I would love to see it so make sure that you are tagging me on Instagram. You can also use hashtag KCEA which is Knit Crochet Ever After and put it on Facebook. Send it to me because I want to see what you made. I want to see what kind of ones you've done. I'm also on Ravelry. I'm under DDVU. So you can go find me there and tag the pattern and post your projects there too if you are Ravelry, you know. Savvy? Ravelry Savvy! So, that's it. I really enjoyed this project, I hope you did too. I'm Deja with KnitAndCrochetEverAfter.com and thank you for watching.