5x12 CNC - Specs, Machine File, Spoilboard Setup, First Job

Jay's Custom Creations is supported by Timber King sawmills. For more information on my 1220CRZ sawmill or many other fully hydraulic sawmills, go to TimberKing.com. All right, the machine is built. It's operational. I'm going to run through a few things on my list and hopefully get through all of them today. A couple things that I left out of the build video. This is the tool touch-off plate for measuring tool changes. So you have two different things that need to be measured regarding the bit height. So typically on my last setup, I would just measure Z zero. Where do I want that Z zero to be? Whether it's on a machine surface or the material surface, I would have to measure that every single time I changed a bit. With this setup, you Z zero like normal, whether it's on a machine bed or the material surface. And then once you have that set, you can roll with it forever for all these different bit changes so long as you're cutting the same material and whatnot. So let's just say I'm cutting with a quarter inch end mill and do a bunch of stuff. Well, then I need to swap out to, I don't know, a V bit. That's kind of out of order there, but I can swap out bits and then it'll do a manual tool change over here and touch off on this plate and it'll do the calculation as far as how much stick out there is on that particular bit versus the last one. And there's no need to do another Z zero off of the new bit. This is super handy, I think, from what I, from what I understand how little I've used the machine yet, but also a necessity when you have a whole tool rack of tools on an ATC. Pendant, I'm going to show you that in a second because it's amazing. This is the Avid dust shoe. I'm going to talk about that in just a few minutes because that's amazing. I've got to put this reducer from six inch to four inch right up there for my dust collection and then figure out some type of a support system to add a little bit of support to the line and not let it drop down and then get chewed up by the gantry. I have my emergency stop located over here and I'm not sure if I like it over there. It's kind of gotten in the way with the way I have my dust collection right now, which is also temporary. So I may, I may move it, I'm not sure. But this cluster area right here is purposefully clustered because I have, I have Belgian Malinois dogs, which are, someone said in my comments that these are Belgian missiles and that's accurate because when they hear something and they take off, they go straight through wherever they're going and there's no regard for anything. They're ridiculous. So I've got to stop them from yanking this ethernet cable right now because I have a very temporary 12 inch Oliver jointer computer desk right now and it's obviously not ideal. But I have to get all of this moved to a computer cart. So what I'm going to, what am I going to do for a computer cart? As I spin around once again, you guys remember this bucket pod I made two shops ago? So it's a concrete bucket pole in a concrete form and a bucket, getting tongue tied here, with a frame around it and casters down below and it rolls quite well. This is what I used for a, what I call a bucket pod for the past two shops. So I had a ball head right here for my camera. See, is the mic on? That's, I guess that's important. And very easily adjust this up or down. When I initially made this, I had some linkage right here, some parallel linkage. So that way I could pivot this up and down independent of this. And it was, it was completely redundant and had a little bit of a wobble to it. So I got rid of the, the parallel arms and just screwed on a stationary piece. Then I had a swivel piece right here for a monitor because the camera I was using didn't have a back screen. Anyway, what I'm getting at is I no longer use this because since we've been on this property, the majority of my filming has been outside and I just use tripods and I've gotten used to tripods again. So this has just been sitting, collecting dust and spider webs. I'm going to take this off and reuse the pole in the bucket. That's going to be my, my foundation, my stand for a computer cart for the CNC computer and whatnot. That is going to be tethered to the control box, whatever length this ethernet cable is, that's going to be fine. I'll, I'll zip tie it all and make sure it all is nice to where the dogs can't yank it out. But that's going to be one of the first projects that I make because that's obviously not ideal sitting right there. And we get to reuse the bucket pod and keep that thing going, which is awesome. What else going on back here since the last video we added, or I added this extra rail in the back. I picked up another rail, so I don't have an open back anymore. And then also I need to move this, but I'm not entirely sure where, because the maximum wide travel is somewhere around here. So it doesn't, doesn't, uh, I'm not using this basically. So I need to move this forward for one of two things, either to have more support for the spoil board, which will be extended back here or for room for the ATC. So that's going to be moved. I've got a little tool holder over here. Actually, this is the ISO 30 tool holder with something installed in it. And to get these installed, this, I should know the name of this, but I'm going blank right here. Anyway, you put your ISO 30 tool tools in there and it's kind of like a vice for you to open and close the collet nut and get a bit installed. I just parked it over here out of the way. Of course, this is on with these bolts. You can put it anywhere you want on the rail machine specs. So, uh, this is on paper, a five foot by 12 foot machine. So that's the, the, the, the five foot that's the capacity in between this side rail and in between the side rail over here. However, the actual X travel on the gantry here is a little bit more than that because it has to go above this, this side rail over here to use this touch off plate. And then also, uh, it's, it's always a couple inches more in either direction. That's the way it was with my last machine. Anyway, uh, I tweaked the, the far sensor on the last machine as well as inside the software to get a few more inches. And I did the same thing on this particular one. So although this is technically a 60 inch by 144 inch, I have a actual capacity of 61 and a half inches by 147.25 inches. So a couple more inches in either direction. Now is that usable space? Nah, not really for the most part, because like I said, on the far left of the low values of X, it is on top of this rail and you really don't have any way to hold stuff down on top of this side rail. And then it does go a little bit further on this right hand side, but I just figured out where my last point of the spoil board was. And I said that was good enough as far as the center of the spindle. You can tweak it, like I said, just a little bit more and gain just a little bit by moving the sensor in the back, taking some measurements, figuring out if you can add a quarter inch or whatever to the specs in the, in the software, totally doable, not really worth it as far as really gaining something amazing. But I want all these, all these values to represent the, the maximum actual value of the travel for this particular machine. So I did that. What else? The cost. So what does this machine cost? I'm going to be very honest with you here and say, I don't actually know, because I'm working with Avid on this particular machine, just like I did on my last machine. And for some reason, that kind of really irks some people and thinking that you're getting something for free, nothing in business is for free, absolutely nothing is for free. They're providing the value of the machine in exchange for me providing value of brand awareness, marketing, R and D, tweaking some things here and there. And there's a, there's a lot more that goes on behind it. So as far as the cost of this machine, I don't know, to be quite honest with you. But if you put in all these specs on Avid's website for a five by 10, and then add just a little bit more for the extra two feet of length in the Y direction, well, you should be pretty darn close to figuring out what this exact machine costs. Just being completely honest with you there. This machine is equipped with the new servo motors. And there's actually three motor options that you can get from Avid right now. I believe it's a NEMA 23, which is a stepper motor, a NEMA 34, which is a stepper motor, and then these servo motors. This servo motor is stronger than the last two stepper motors I've mentioned. But also, it's a closed loop information system versus the stepper motors not being closed loop. The way a stepper motor works, essentially, I'm kind of paraphrasing here is, if the machine says go to X30, it's going to send that signal to the stepper motor, and then the stepper motor is going to try to go to X30. If something's in the way, or there's a little hiccup, and you lose some steps, then the software thinks you're at X30, but you may not be at X30 in physical space, in actual reality. A servo motor is a closed loop. So if the signal is to go to X30, you're going to get a signal back that says, hey, I'm at X30. It basically monitors its position as it goes versus simply trying to achieve a specific distance, if that makes any sense. So do you need to upgrade to the servos, or do you need to get these servos when you buy a new machine? Maybe, maybe not. I mean, it just depends. It is an upgrade to get these versus the other two stepper motors. But that being said, my last machine, I had the NEMA 34s on it, and I really worked that machine pretty hard. I was slab flattening at pretty good speeds, Osage Orange, a lot of hickory, ash. A friend of mine out of Tupelo builds a bunch of epoxy tables, and I've flattened a couple dozen epoxy tables from them, which is some pretty darn hard stuff. And the NEMA 34s were just fine. You do get a little bit more power and speed with these. They're quieter, and like I said, it's a closed loop system, so they verify their position before moving on to the next step. And by the way, I don't claim to be an expert on these motors. That's just my brief information. So if I said something wrong, please educate us all down in the comments. This is Avid's new dust shoe, and it is a welcomed addition. It really is. You know, you have a CNC machine. You can pretty much make whatever you want to make. You can make your own dust shoe, like I did with my last machine. I had a rectangular setup that had a four-inch hose on this side, a four-inch hose on this side. It was kind of big and bulky. It did a pretty good job, but over time, I was having problems keeping the brushes down below attached, and it got a little bit annoying. It was a homemade version based upon Frank Howarth's version, if I'm not mistaken. And I upgraded from that to a 3D-printed version that had two tubes that came down on either side of the spindle with a six-inch port above, and it had one big oval area of suction right around the spindle. And that worked pretty darn good. But I like this one better for one very specific reason. Well, first off, it's very solid, and if you have to change a bit or you have to get underneath it, you can pop this whole cover off very quickly and easy, so you put that back on. Or if you want to just pop the bristles off and change them out to a different size bristle, there's longer and shorter bristles available, it can go on and off very easily. But the thing that I love about this is this right here. You've just completed your job, dust collection's still going. Rather than finding another hose, which I had to do in my last setup, this pops off and you can clean your spoil board right then and there, and it pops right back on and it stays put and it doesn't fall off. That's awesome. This is all made out of aluminum. It's going to last a lot longer than any homemade thing that I can come up with. So no, you don't have to buy one, you can make your own. But this is pretty darn nice. With the experience that I have, with the different dust shoes that I have used, this is a welcomed addition. What else is a welcomed addition? On this spindle, it's pneumatically controlled, so you can pop out your bit. I mean, that's never going to get old. You know that scene in Tommy Boy, right at the end of Tommy Boy, when they're going through the factory and they're crash testing a car and the Zelinsky guy says, when the car crashes, he's like, God, I love that. God, I love that. I think that's going to be the new, oh, every time I change a bit, God, I love that. All right, I don't know what I called this a few minutes ago, but this is called a tool height setter. I have no idea what I called it. Anyway, this tool height setter, this dust shoe, this spindle, the servo motors, they didn't exist when I had my last machine, as far as offerings from Avid. So to step away for a couple of years and then come back and see all of this improvement, it's refreshing. It's really nice. So kudos to Avid for investing in their products, not settling for a really good product, but making it even better. That's admirable, admirable, admirable. That's really nice. What else is really nice is this that did not exist from Avid, the pendant. This is the new control pendant and it is awesome. It is really awesome. So I've used many different CNC machines, right? Brief history real quick. I've got industrial experience running a big four by eight Como CNC router where the gantry was fixed into space, this big massive iron structure that only the gantry moved left and right on, a four foot by eight foot table, and that table had 16 feet of total floor space because the table moved for your wide travel and it had a standalone big monster box pendant with full keyboard and whatnot. That was a big industrial setting. And then on my personal side, I used the Shapoko 2 CNC router, which was actually not a router. It was powered by a Dremel, if I'm not mistaken, and belt driven, itty bitty little CNC machine that really sparked the itch for me having a CNC in my shop. Then I had the X-Carve, the big one meter by one meter X-Carve. For whatever reason, one reason or another, I didn't really mess with that particular machine much. Moved on from it and got the Axiom two foot by four foot. That was a really nice machine, very solid machine. That was very little assembly, just kind of unbox it and you go with it. And then from there, I went with the big four by 10 from Avid and now the five by 12. So I've got a lot of experience running these different machines. And this, this is awesome. None of these other machines had this. This is the control pendant. Like I said, you could do basically anything from this machine other than load new files or the machine from the controller. So you can start and stop, you have a feed hold button, right? What is feed hold? Well, in the middle of your job, you look up and you see, oh my gosh, there's a bolt right on top of the material in the travel of the machine. So I can hit feed hold, the spindle will continue running, but it'll just pause where it's at. I can go over there and move whatever I need to move out of the way and come back and press cycle start and it'll go back cutting like nothing ever happened. There's also a tool check button, which is I think like the superhero version of feed hold. So the tool check will pause the job, lift the spindle all the way up, stop the spindle and then allow you to jog it. So let's just say you have the dust shoe on and the brushes are falling off. If you notice that the brushes are barely on, oh crap, you can hit the tool check button. It'll raise up the spindle. From there, you can jog the machine right up next to you. You can look at it, the spindle's off, so you can manipulate the brushes, put the brushes back on where they need to be and then hit tool check button. It's either tool check or cycle start, I forget which. And it'll go back to that position, turn the spindle on, plunge down to the appropriate spot where it left off and then continue on with your job. So as far as I'm concerned, feed hold, it's kind of pointless when you have such a versatile tool check button. You can increase or decrease the jog speed. You can turn the spindle on and off manually. From here, you have four macro buttons which are programmable if you know how to mess with a little bit of code, but they do have several presets right from the factory that you can plug in. So I didn't program anything, I just used the factory presets. I believe number one, I have set to go to the home position. Number four, I have set to go to my park position. And I think number two is just Z up and I have number three empty. So you can set those to whatever you want. The park position, the park position is awesome. It is really, really awesome. So think about parking. When do you park? Well, you park when you're at your destination ready to leave your vehicle, whether it's home or wherever, and you park in a position that it's convenient for you to come back to, right? That's the nature of parking. So for me, I set my park position, and you can set your park position anywhere you want. But for me, I set my park position to be at X.5, Y.5, right up near the front corner of the machine. Why is that? Well, that's because when you first start up the machine, no matter what, you have to home the machine. When the machine's off, it loses all positioning. It wakes up blindfolded. It has no idea where it's at. So it has to rely on the sensors to figure out a known location, which is your home position. So when you start up the machine, you have to home it, and it's a slow process. So slow that the software, CNC12, will actually allow you to jog it closer, being very careful because you can crash into your home. Jog it closer so that way you don't have to slow travel so far. Because when you're homing, it has no idea where it's at. So again, it's going to go really slow in the negative directions until it finds those sensors. And then once it finds the sensors, it knows, okay, I am now at X0 or Y0 or Z0. So if it does that movement really slow, let's help it out by setting our park position really close at the end of the day. So when I'm done with the machine, I'll hit the park button, and it'll go all the way up here, and then I'll shut down. That's really handy. You don't have to use it for that location, but I will recommend that because you could also put it, say, in the back of the machine. I'm running, say, 20 pieces of sheet goods today. Well, then it might sound convenient to, after the first one's cut, hit that park button and it goes all the way to the back, load another piece, and then go on with the next cut. When that one's done, hit the park button, it goes all the way back, and so on. However, I wouldn't recommend setting your park position way in the back because you can do that in basically any one of the CAM softwares that you're using. For example, VCarve has a stop location that you can program. So for those jobs where I am running multiple sheets and I want the machine to get out of the way so I can load the next one, for those jobs, that's when you specify in the CAM software start and stop way back there, and that frees up your home position for up here. This knob over here allows you to set the axis. So on my machine, I have X, Y, Z. I don't have a fourth axis, which would be a rotary, and there's actually a spot for fifth and sixth axes. Or you can turn this all the way off, that way you don't accidentally make any changes when you don't want to. But you have multipliers over here for your travel. So I have it set on 100X, which in the software, that is to your maximum travel speed or maximum cut speed. 10X is set to your low cut speed, and then 1X is set to a thousandth of an inch per minute, which is awesome, and I'll show you why in just a second. All right, so let's just say we're on 100X and we're on our X travel. You can just quickly, you just quickly move like that. It's just so, you get feedback with each one of these dial clicks being an actual nice click and you're not spinning off into space. So there's feedback so you can feel yourself actually moving it. That's really, really nice. Of course, all of your axes, you can switch in between. The Z axes down in the slower increment will allow you to get close, like let's just say I'm trying to Z zero off that piece of orange, whatever that is, you can get close to it and then switch over to the 1X and then you're moving down at a thousandth of an inch per minute. That is awesome. So if you have like a fly cutter, a big wide surfacing bit, you can very carefully get down onto the piece of material. You can spin the collet with one or spin the spindle with one hand while coming down one thousandth of an inch at a time. And as soon as it just kisses the surface, then you get the zero button and hit your establish your Z zero without ever using a touch plate. So this could potentially eliminate the need for a touch plate if you find that workflow to be a little bit easier. Or in the case of large diameter fly cutters, the touch plate isn't even useful because it's bigger, a bit as bigger than the touch plate is super, super cool. You can also adjust your feed rate while the machine's cutting. You can switch this over to feed rate and adjust this up or down in percentage. So all the way up to like, I believe 150% is maximum value. So if you, if you're cutting some stuff and you know what sounds like I'm running a little bit too slow and when I'm running too slow, I'm probably going to be doing more burning and rubbing rather than cutting. That's when you get really fine dust instead of chips. So rather than stopping the program, recreating the tool path with a little bit faster speed, you can simply go to your feed rate on this dial and increase the RPM until you hear that pitch that you want to hear. After running these machines a little while, you'll understand the sound that a good, a good cut makes versus a bad cut. Oh, I love this thing. It is so awesome. That park button is also pretty darn handy for tool changes. Listen to how quiet these motors are. So handy. God, I love that. All right. So you just built your machine and you're ready to slap a spoil board on there and get to work, right? Maybe, but I recommend pausing and making what I'm calling a machine file. I don't know if it's got a specific name, but a machine file, in my opinion, is basically just a template that you incrementally save as you make changes to it. So we have all previous versions to reference off of, and if something goes haywire, never ever have just one machine file. Every change you make, add an increment to the file name, so that way if the main file you're using gets corrupt, you got something to fall back on. So a machine file holds the information of everything that the machine can touch. The rails, the spoil board, any geometry you cut into the spoil board for like locating dogs or T-track or your vertical table positions, all of that is stored in a machine file. It's just a large template file for whatever software you use. In my case, I use VCarve. So I'll create a new VCarve file that has the job size that's of the maximum capacity or the maximum travel of my machine, and then I'll add the geometry that I know is going to exist forever. For example, the rails. So how do you find the rails? Well, I just put in a half-inch carbide, precision carbide rod, which I bought many years ago, way before prices of carbide got crazy expensive. But with this rod, we can use this to find the location of all of these rails. So I know that I'm off in space and I'm not going to hit anything. I'll plunge down on the Z-axis. Now I'm below the surface of these rails, but I want to move into them without hitting them. So let's move to the Y-axis on the controller, and then go down to 1,000th of an inch, and I can get really close and be extremely precise, well, up to 1,000th of an inch. And what I'm looking for is I'm sighting in between the rod and the rail until daylight disappears, which is right there. So on the controller, the digital readout on the pendant says the Y value is 8.088. So I write that down as the position of my front rail, but is that the position of my front rail? No, it is not. Whatever you're using in here, if you're using a, you can use a quarter-inch end mill, it'll do the same thing, but whatever you're using in here, you have to add the radius. If we're measuring on the front side of the rail, then the center axes of the spindle is not touching that rail by the radius of the bit. So I need to add, in my case, 0.25 inches. So I've already done that, I've taken all of my measurements of all of my rails, added that 0.25 to each one of those measurements, I started a file in VCarve, I created those rails as just basic rectangles in the correct location with, of course, the correct width of those rectangles and the correct length of those rectangles to represent the rails on the machine. That's very important information to have, in my opinion, because you know not to hit it if you're going to drill through, say, the spoil board for dog holes, right? You don't want to hit the rails. So let me actually, now that I'm thinking about it, get out of this little hole right here so I don't accidentally run into the rails accidentally. So from there, you can also do the spoil board. With the rails located, I also wanted to locate where my spoil board is, and I'll get into the spoil board strategy and then cover actually building the spoil board in a different video. But I need to know where this corner, this front left corner of my MDF is, my sheet good area on the spoil board. Where is this corner? So the same method applies with the rails, for the rails with the MDF. You can use this setup to reference off of to find those exact coordinates. One thing that I did before locking down the MDF to the rails is I shoved it all the way over in the X positive direction. Now this MDF is sitting on top of these rails. These rails are the same height as the side rails. So what's it going to stop against as I push it all the way over there? It's going to stop against this dust cover. Who's to say if this dust cover actually is parallel with the Y travel? I don't know, it might, it might not be. So to take that into consideration, what I did is I pushed it all the way over there and then I used the spindle and the carbide rod to locate the edge of the MDF on both sides. Whichever one was sticking further out when pushed all the way, I used that value. Locking in that corner and then I would jog to the other corner and then pull that side back just slightly so it touched the carbide rod. What that did is it aligned this edge of the spoil board in line with the Y axis travel of the machine. Now is this edge perfectly straight out of the factory? It might be, it might not be. I'm trusting it for the meantime. But if it's not, all it would take is getting a bit really close to these rails without touching it and then manually jogging the machine all the way back as it makes a nice cut to get it absolutely perfectly parallel with the Y travel of the machine. That's something else that needs to be in the machine file. This sheet of MDF which is one inch bigger in both directions than a standard 4x8 sheet of plywood. That's a rectangle that goes into my machine file and that always lets me know where the sheet good station is. Now once that rectangle is into the machine file, if I'm using dog holes for locating which I will, then every time I cut one of those dog holes, I'll know to not put the dog hole on top of the rail and once I save that machine file, I'll also know the position of those holes forever. So you can cut a series of holes, in this case two holes along the Y direction, two holes along the X direction. That gives you reference for two different edges of your material and it will also provide a corner point that you can save in your machine file so that way you know that hey, this is my typical location that I put stuff on all the time. That's where I can draw my rectangle for my actual job in the machine file and then run the machine file with just those cuts for your toolpath making. That way, that stops you from having to change your origin to a different location every single time. If you want to say, you know, you create something on a 12 by 12 canvas, 12 inch by 12 inch canvas in VCarve, instead of doing that, you use your machine file to make that 12 by 12 rectangle in this exact corner and then draw out from there. It saves you from having to change your origin and you can simply just use the machine home position as your origin for every single job. All right, so what is my spoil board strategy? I've already got the spoil board started right here and I have a couple different zones and different things that I want to accomplish. Obviously, there's a vertical table in the front that is not built yet, so that'll be one zone. This front right corner of the horizontal table, I've already got two sheets of MDF on here, top one surfaced, and this is my sheet good station. I want it on that side so that way this side can be exposed and this is my beam location. This gives me a full 12 feet or so, 12 feet plus a few inches actually, to put a beam on here and do any type of mortises or joinery or anything that I want to do to the top of the beam. Very easily rotate it and I don't have the MDF on top of these rails just yet, but I'm only going to do just caps, I guess you could say, on these rails. It's going to be like a segmented spoil board over here. That way I can use F-style clamps to hold beams down. Beams are so darn big, well, depending on the size of the beam, that these little hold down clamps, they're not really that effective unless you have a real long piece of threaded rod and it's just easier to grab an F-style clamp and clamp it down. If I am using F-style clamps to clamp all this stuff down, I want the open space exposed so that way I can very easily access the clamps. Also on the other side of the machine over here, I can get in there and use that as well. But I do want these pads that go on top of the rails to be the exact same height as the spoil board because if I'm flattening, I don't think I'll ever make a table that big, but my friends who I do a lot of slab flattening for and tabletop flattening, they make big conference tables and such. If they come at me with a 5x12 conference table, well, I'll need this extra space over here to be the same height as the spoil board so everything is nice and level and we can flatten something crazy big like that, which sounds like a lot of fun, to be honest with you. Now, also, my front rail is pushed in a little bit from where it typically is on the instructions. In the instructions, there is a front rail that is really in the front of the side rails. I'm sorry, not in front of the side rails, but it's in line with the front of the side rails. So technically speaking, my 12 feet of length actually extends out in the space over here in the front by just a little bit. Now, if we're talking about a table that requires the entire 12 foot length overhanging 4, 5, 6 inches, whatever this is in the front, that's not going to be an issue, not going to be an issue at all. So I'm okay with leaving that open and anything less than, say, 11 foot 6 inches or whatever that gap is, it'll be fully supported on that side of the machine. Regarding the main spoil board area, like I said, I'll do a whole spoil board video because I've got a lot more to do, but the gist of it is it's going to be very similar to my last machine setup. I'm going to have a bunch of bench dog holes for locating corners of rectangular objects. I'm going to be using homemade hold-down clamps in conjunction with T-track bolts and T-track, but with this setup, I'm trying to do this as cheap as possible for two reasons. Number one, well, I don't want to spend a bunch of money. Number two, a lot of you out there don't want to spend a bunch of money. One of the complaints that I got with my last machine is the materials that I used for the T-track and the dogs themselves weren't the cheapest, we'll say. They were kind of pricey. Now, the T-track that I used was an Armortool T-track, and it's really nice stuff because it has a top and a bottom track. So you can use the bottom track to bolt it down to the table, not just rely on screws. I don't want to rely on small screws that are typically used with T-track because the hold-down force with these clamps, I'm afraid, will just be more than the screws and rip the T-track out of the table. So bolting the last stuff down was nice. I think there's a workaround with much, much, much less expensive track. And the other benefit of that really nice Armortool track was it was kind of segmented on top or it had some recesses on top, I believe one every 12 inches. So you can insert a bolt mid-track and then slide it where it needed to be, rather than having to insert a bolt from the side and go all the way in, and maybe something's blocked on the other side, you've already got your material in place, oh crap, you got to pick up the material and get a bolt all the way through. That's kind of annoying. So I've got some workarounds for both of those issues to reduce the cost and whatnot. I'll cover that in another video. So like I said, I kind of rushed the spoilboard to get it to where it's at now just so I had a flat surface that I could go off of for the first paying job. This is the prototype that we cut out. It's a basic shelf, not much to it, but it was a little bit interesting and it required a little bit of thought because it's dished out in the middle, there's a flat dish on the inside, and then there's an integrated roundover, I guess a bullnose, that goes up and around. So there's two different vectors, one for the outside and then that was offset a certain distance so that we can create this pocket, but also those two vectors were used with a needlepoint roundover bit to get both sides of this roundover. Once we had the prototype done, cut it out with four tabs, although I didn't go all the way through, as you can see. Anyway, cut it out with four tabs so it wouldn't go flying. Then we chucked up a bunch of, or chucked up, we secured a bunch of pieces of red oak that he brought and we cut out two side-by-side in each one of the red oak blanks. Turned out pretty darn good. And a very simple project, but required a little bit of thought process to achieve this roundover with the dish on the inside. Good little experience after not doing anything on the CNC for a couple years. I'm probably going to hang this on the wall just because it's the first thing off the machine. That's it for this video, though. Next video will either be, either be, the computer cart on the bucket pod or finishing off the spoil board. I'm not sure which one I will get more frustrated with and need to accomplish first, but that's that. Anyway, thanks for watching. You guys take care. Have a great day and I'll talk to you in the next video.