Bow Grip- Cam Spacers- Perfect Tunes - How to Shift a Cam to Match Your Grip.

Hey folks, check out the Grinch. This color scheme anyway is officially my favorite. I hope this thing hits everything I aim at. But first things first, I need to shift my cams. A lot of the companies right now are recognizing that some people have different grips, different grip positions, and require different positions of that so that you can always get that perfect arrow through paper with everything down the pipe. I love that, but this is a more advanced type of bow tuning thing. So if you're watching this and you're knock on 101 school wanna knock, you're going to be like, I didn't even know a bow looked like that when it didn't have strings on it. Yes, they do. So this is a little bit more advanced, but I just want to talk with you about my steps of shifting this cam system. And also just to kind of give you an idea of what the options are, because come right down here, check this out. These are the three options. And what these do is these different thicknesses all will move your cam to a different place within the limb, right? So, you know, you've got a thick and a thin, so this would shift you like this. However, the black has a little bit thicker than that silver and a little bit thinner. So that would, you know, shift it even more. And then the red will shift it the max amount. So you've kind of got these three options, but it even gets, get a little bit more confusing even yet, because not only do you have those three options, sometimes you want the thin in, sometimes you want the thin out, and that really depends on you and do a little bit of research on cam shifting. That one, I'm not explaining it right now, but I'm going to tell you, I know for me and on the recent Hoyts, everything for 2025, I personally have been going thin on the right with the grays. So thin right, thick, thin to my right, thick to my left. And that's been giving me a really, really good down the pipe tune. Now, last year, I was actually thin black to the right and the thicker black to the left. Now, a lot of people, depending on how much they squeeze the bow handle, they may be a little bit different. So standard, this thing will come just like this. So thick is going to be on the right and the thin is on the left. And that is based on, honestly, information that Hoyt gathers on the most average grip position that people have and the torque that they apply either with their face or their release. So that is their home base setting right there. I take their home base setting and I actually shift it a little bit over and bring my string track more to the center of the limb. So here's how I do that. Now that it's unstrung, I'm going to slightly loosen, and I'll need one more wrench on this one, I'm going to slightly loosen these rocker bolts right here. The rocker bolts essentially squeeze that limb together. So that takes any type of tolerance out of the system. And you want to make sure that those are tight later, but just about a half turn, quarter turn is all you need. And that will allow the limb to come forward and come out. This is a really, really nice clean system. Honestly, the limbs are still tight. They're not all flopping around. Stuff's not falling apart. Honestly, all you have right there is your rockers. And then what I'm going to do is I will take this limb. I keep the system out just like this. I'm going to put a Torx wrench on this side, and then I'll have another side that I actually turn. And once you're ready to start turning, I actually set it down on a table. Makes it much easier. And I am going to back that screw out of there. So once you've got that screw loosened up, and sometimes you get lucky. One side will automatically loosen, one side won't. But you can see here, there's the screw. So the screw's out. The axle is centered in that limb. So now all I have to do to adjust my spacers to where I personally like them is now I'm going to go ahead and slide this limb off this one side. I'm going to take the thin off. And if you worry about which direction the cam goes, the best thing to do is just to take it off like this. Take that silver spacer, the thicker one, take it off. Now I'm putting the thin right back where that was. I haven't moved my cam position. Now I can slide that cam right back on, slide my silver on that direction. Now I've put that together, and hey, this is pretty dang easy, wasn't it? Looks scary. Obviously, you really need to know how to unstring a bow, how to disassemble a bow. Again, this is probably a video for some better bow techs or people who have done a good job working with bows. Then honestly, when I've done this, the next thing I would do really quick is I would put a little bit of lithium grease on some of these contact points just as a protocol. I always like to have just a little bit of that on the contact points. So I'm just going to put a little bit there, put a little bit on the front of that pocket there and there. Sound effects are free. Don't worry about not having side effects, sound effects. All right, so now I'll give you a quick important tip. So we've pulled this limb out and we've loosened our rocker bolt, so our rockers can also loosen and pivot. So you really want to make sure one of these has not turned all the way down like that or even both of them because this is going to change how that limb sits on there and it won't be good. So just make sure both of those are where they need to be. You're going to take your limb, helps if you turn it the right way, and I'm just going to slide it in there, push it into position. There we go. We're fully seated and both of the rocker pads are in the correct place. And now all I'm going to do is tighten up that rocker bolt that we just talked about. Get that tightened. You don't want to crush your limbs, but it's tight. The system's complete. And I actually love this about a Hoyt. Like when it can come apart like this and the tolerances are this good to where, you know, you're able to have a cam that spins, you're able to have limbs in a pocket and everything's taut. This is part of why the Hoyt durability and destruction protocol that they have from the factory stands alone. Destruction tests and what these bows need to do is pretty much standalone. But that right there is how you change it. Now Hoyt does make a really nice tool if you need to hold any of those in place as you're trying to feed the axle. If you're trying to do it in a bow press, honestly, you're going to fight it. Like you've already had to unstring it and you can see here I used a little, you know, loop here, which you get normally when you get some strings, a brand new set of strings or cables. And so I've taken off each side, hung them on that, kept them clean in the center. Now I can just do exactly what I showed you. And this is such an easy process. Good luck.