7 SIMPLE and STUNNING Handles for Pottery!

Hello everybody, this is Anne. In this video, I wanted to see if I could make creative mug handles without using the traditional pull method. With the help of several members of the Pottery Studio Facebook group, I came up with seven simple and stunning handles. The first handle is made using this handle making tool. These tools come in several different sizes. This particular one slices a slim handle appropriate for a teacup or a small mug. To make the cut, I need a thick slab of clay. I find it easiest to work straight from the fresh clay block. I just need to make sure the tool is completely submerged under the surface in order to get a nice cut. I trimmed away the unwanted clay bits. I like the edges to be beveled, so I work that down with wet fingers like so. I then cut it to the size needed and attach. The next handle I made using an old credit card. First, I rolled out a slab of clay almost a half inch thick and ribbed it on both sides. I cut a nice profile out of a card with an exacto knife. I put the card down on top of the slab and marked where the edges of the profile hit on the slab. I then moved the card down on the slab and marked it again. Using a straight edge, I cut the clay along the marks so that I ended up with a thick slab strip. Using wet fingers, I then softened and beveled the edges of the strip. I wet the card and with both hands on either side of the card, I held the card perpendicular to the table, then firmly pulled the card down the clay strip. I had to make a few passes to remove all the excess clay. I cut the end of the strip to check the profile. Now my clay was stuck to my work surface, so I used a wire to wire it off. Then I used wet fingers to make a soft beveled edge. I cut it to the size I needed and then attached. I was inspired by this mug by Jan Clare Kuba to make her textured mug handle. I had this circular texture stamp that I thought would be perfect. I rolled out a quarter inch slab, ribbed both sides, then incised the texture. I then used this one inch diameter ruler, placed it over the textured clay, and cut on both sides. I cut the strip to the length that I wanted. With wet fingers, I softened and beveled the top edges. I also made sure the opposite side was smooth and beveled. Again, I cut to size and attached. I found a small crank extruder and I thought I would try to build an elegant handle with that. First, I rolled out a quarter inch slab, ribbed it on both sides, and cut it into a one inch wide strip. Then I prepared the extruder. This particular model uses a crank to push the clay out through the other end. It also has a few metal profile dies and works just like the old Play-Doh fun factory. A fun factory! Let's have a Play-Doh party! Yeah! A shooting star! I made spaghetti! I chose the half moon die and screwed it into one end, rolled a coil of clay that I inserted into the opposite end. I screwed the cap on and began turning the crank. I found it helpful to hold the extruder downward so the clay comes out long and straight. I cut the strip into two equal sections and placed them side by side, pushing them together so that they stuck. I used wet fingers to soften and bevel the top edges of the strip. I then centered the extruded half moons on top of the wet clay strip. Slightly pushed inward along the edges of the half moons. I then used a wet paintbrush to seal the edges together. I cut down the strip to size. I pulled up the strip and beveled the underneath edges with wet fingers. Then I attached it. I then moved to the wheel to try a few ideas. This first one will be a one finger loop. I threw an extra tall cylinder and indented the mug where I wanted its final height to be. Holding my index finger two thumb lengths apart, I created vertical indentations starting from the horizontal indent and working my way to the top of the cylinder like so. To define the finger marks, I stuck a straight wooden tool against the clay and made shallow cuts like so. I then used a needle tool to round the edges where the vertical and horizontal lines meet. I used the needle to cut along all the lines. After removing the excess clay, I began beveling the edges with wet fingers. I carefully bent the clay strip down and attached it to make the loop handle. I always refine the rim to make sure it's comfortable for lips. To finish off the bottom of the handle, I carved a little button and attached it at the base. Next, I threw a mug that was one inch taller than the height that I really want the mug to be. I measured down that inch and sliced the top off with a needle tool. I then sliced the rim and unfurled it so that it was flat. I cut it down, beveled the edges with wet fingers, cut it to size, and attached it. A huge thank you to both Jan, Claire, Kuba, and Hope Jackson for the inspiration for this next handle. I threw a mug about an inch taller than I want the final mug to be. Starting from a mark on the rim, I marked a wide spiral all the way around the mug, making sure to stop when I got back around to the starting mark. I made several passes along the mark with my finger to make sure the spiral was straight. Then I cut along the line. I unfurled the clay at the top and bent it backwards to form a slant curved handle. I cut the strip diagonally, scored and slipped it into place. I used a wet paintbrush to reinforce the seam. I also rolled a small coil and pushed it down along the seam for reinforcement. I inserted extra clay along the top of the clay strip to stop the strip from ripping any further and to give the design a more pleasing flow. I used a wet finger to refine and soften the top edge of the mug. This particular mug will work for a left-handed drinker. For a right-handed drinker, you'll want to cut the spiral in the opposite direction. The moral of this story is that if you have not had luck pulling your handles, don't give up. There are plenty of ways to make creative handles for your elegant mugs. If you liked our video, please like, share, and subscribe. See you next time in the studio.