3 ARCHERY MISTAKES & How To Fix Them

What's going on everyone? In today's video we're going to be going over not all of the mistakes but a common top three mistakes that I'm constantly seeing and everyone's constantly seeing people mess up with and are doing wrong when shooting a bow. First I want to give a small plug. Ultraview Archery and I just launched last week our Matthew's Be Real Grip. Works on any Matthew's bow, any Matthew's bow 2019 and later and if it takes the Engage Grip. So click away to check if it takes a new Engage Grip it works on it. Hunting and target so super rad. We're shipping out all of them tomorrow from orders over the weekend so if you ordered one over the weekend you're going to get it soon. So like I said these are top three up there in the top three definitely top 10. Like the most common things you always see people you know doing which aren't necessarily correct. So when shooting a bow the number one thing more important than anything more important than tuning the right equipment anything is doing everything exactly the same every single time. If you shoot with an untuned bow you don't have the best form you know you might not even be able to like aim very good you're all shaky but if you do the same exact thing every single time that's more valuable and that's more important than a lot of things. So with that said now we're going to dive in to number one or topic number one of the most common mistakes. Now this might seem kind of basic to a lot of people but there are so many people that draw their bow incorrectly and like not only does drawing this way make it harder for you to draw your bow back it can cause injury and it causes inconsistency because you have to move a lot more. So I'm going to demonstrate this is a lot of ways that people draw with too much poundage for hunting bows. Oh I can't get it back that way. So the drawing against the chest straight down not only do you have a bunch of torque on your shoulder because instead of drawing upwards and having your joints and everything work how they're supposed to work you're putting a bunch of tension downward and your shoulder is high there's a bunch of ligaments I'm not like a muscle ligament expert guy but I know it's not good when you do that it puts a bunch of strain and over time with high poundage definitely can hurt your shoulder. So also when you draw down like this notice how high I'm pointing the bow so not only are you pointing it like kind of in a dangerous spot even if you draw straight like this everything's just jacked up when you draw a bow back like this. So after you draw it back like this you get it back now look where I'm at shoulders down bows up you have to raise your release hand up and you drop your shoulder down and then you come to anchor. It's like an extra three steps before you actually get anchored at full draw so by adding extra steps and extra movement like that it just allows for more error and it's harder to repeat the same way every single time. So the correct way you're supposed to draw your bow back this is this is again it's very like surface level basic stuff but a lot of people don't do it. You essentially want to create a leverage system when you draw your bow back you're not like just pulling it straight back like lifting up a weight you're actually creating this leverage with your body to get your bow back so once you get your release on the string your bow in the grip you're going to kind of want to go into like the pre-draw stage a lot of people call it so this is my pre-draw I'm set up a little bit of tension on the string you're actually going to want to lift your bow above your head slightly see where my arrow is is slightly above my head you extend your front arm out and notice how everything my elbows high my shoulder is not high but my elbows high my arms high and then you leverage and pull it right back and so now when I'm back all I have to do is touch my face with my hand and I'm anchored and I'm at full draw so a lot less steps a lot less movement and you use your muscles in the correct way to draw your bow back so this is like 76 pounds if I drew this back downwards like this for hundreds of shots thousands of shots in a month that's not good number two and these are just topics again this isn't like ranked in order of worst to bad or most popular I just I just pick three that I see all the time so this is topic number two torquing your front bow arm or your front grip is uh pretty common especially bowhunters they wear if they are insecure about dropping their bow after the shot a lot of times you'll death grip the crap out of this bow and when you death grip the bow what it'll do is turn it this way or this way very rarely when you death grip it stays in the same spot so when you torque the bow like that when you torque an untuned bow especially it can actually make the arrow go left and right make it wobble if you have fixed blade broadheads especially makes the arrow do all sorts of weird stuff because fixed blades broadheads are a lot more fragile with tuning and how they shoot so a couple things you don't want to do when you're gripping your bow number one is the death grip number two see every now and again people way out on their thumb meat like that and you don't want to be on this extra thumb meat there's way too much movement it's not consistent because it's just like you have way too much variance in your thumb and then you also don't want to be too far in and like one that's uncomfortable and two now you're putting your whole bow arm in line with the string so you're going to hit your string so what you're actually going to want to do is find what they call is your lifeline lifeline is this line everyone has it everyone's a little different but everyone has it you're going to want to put it on the thumb side right along that center of the grip so after you do that then you want to put either a couple things i like to do there's really no right answer as long as you're doing it you know in the essence correctly you can rest your fingers on the front you can put them at a 45 kind of floating but you never want to like grab the bow as long as they're just dangling out in the front what i like to do is just like rest either one or two or three fingers right on the front and that keeps my knuckles at a 45 degree angle right on the bow and then you always use some sort of wrist sling i like to at least everyone doesn't and i'm actually not using one on my hunting bow but for my target bow for hunting situations i'll tie something on use a wrist sling which connects between your fingers and that just allows you and your mind to have the confidence that you're not going to drop your bow after the shot and that helps prevent you grabbing the bow after the shot which can slowly turn into you know essentially a target panic or some sort of anticipating i had to think of the word anticipating the shot which is not good so by having that security of some sort of wrist sling finger sling it kind of helps your brain know that you're not going to drop your expensive bow and hit the concrete so in a nutshell for bow grip you don't want to torque it by having a death grip on the bow you're going to make sure you have it right alongside your lifeline the center of it and then you don't want to grab the bow right after the shot soft hands are your friends so a more popular topic it seems like as of lately are anchor points and anchor points on the string if there's nothing on the string if you have a kisser button and now a nose button it doesn't matter what you have it's very very very very very important that you never have too much face pressure i've made a video on this in the past several years ago but essentially face pressure and what we're trying to achieve when shooting a bow is to be as close to doing the same thing every single time and so by limiting the amount of variance we do to the bow allows us to closer achieve the goal of doing everything the same every single time so a couple of bad things when anchoring and when i'm talking about anchoring it's when you come at full draw you touch your hand to your face and then you either touch your nose on the string your lips something on the string that's anchoring so the first thing you're going to want to try to avoid you always see people come back to full draw and then jam their face into the string and now what this is doing and it gets even worse like you can over exaggerate that i've seen all sorts of bad stuff but what that does is it essentially moves your string out of alignment and when you're at full draw most of these you know newer compound bows are only holding several pounds at you know full draw so there's a lot you can do to these strings while they're at full draw because they're under so little tension so it's very important all you want to do when you're at full draw is just barely barely barely touch your face to the string and the least amount the better because any variance you do there when you're under pressure situations or you know different temperature or or whatever it is every you know when you put a lot down you have to make sure that it's the same amount you put on the string every single time or you're going to get a little bit of variance there the second thing that you should try to avoid when you're coming into anchor i can see the reason why people would want to do this to make sure that they're like in the same exact spot and like double triple quadruple check but when they come back or when people come back to full draw they feel like they have to touch their face over and over and over and over again until they finally get the right spot and then they get in this and then they got to readjust and then they shoot definitely just punch that because i didn't want to go through the shot so why that's bad is a lot of times you know when i'm watching people do that they don't do the same amount of like face touches every time it's like once they find it then they stay with it and it adds time to your shot which adds hold time which makes you more shaky because you have to be at full draw for longer and it just adds more variance we're going to want to try to do in that if you if that's you if you're doing that if i'm talking straight to you try to come to anchor once and then stay there and practice only coming to anchor in the right spot once and staying there because when you have a face mask on when you're in pressure situations if you have to shoot a little bit faster you know either in tournaments or hunting that type isn't really going to be awesome you know that type of shot sequence isn't going to be awesome so i was thinking there might have been another thing to try to stick away from and there are i mean we've seen all sorts of crazy shots you know everyone has but i mean those are pretty popular uh big no-nos to me and again this is my opinion based off of you know people i've talked to over the years and combine my own opinion on things so if you don't agree with me awesome you know these are just my opinions so to summarize that having the correct face pressure includes having as little amount as face pressure as possible to have a solid anchor point if you use a kisser button nose button or nothing whatever it is you don't want a lot of pressure on the string regardless so so those are my quick three mistakes that i'm constantly seeing people make and um kind of my two cents on them and how to fix them to help you be a better archer and have tighter groups because right now is such an awesome time and you see so many people creating content out there because you know now's a good time way before season way before the fall while there's no tournaments going on to work on these things and work on bad habits work on your mental game if you can't shoot working on your mental game doesn't really require you to shoot so right now while there's not a whole lot going on most of us are like on lockdown mode go out shoot bow have fun i'll catch you guys in the next one