Mortise And Tenon Table - 222

today I'm making a really simple sofa table with Morse and and joinery the end result should be a really strong table that's very inexpensive I've laid out all of my parts to be cut out of these four boards these are four 8T long 2x10 boards and each one ran about $8 locally so this whole table should cost in in Wood materials uh about $32 and if you take into consideration glue and finish uh less than $40 for the entire table I'm going to start by rough cutting and then Milling all of the pieces for the legs each individual leg is 2 and 1/2 in square and each one of these boards is 1 and 1/2 in thick so each leg will be made up of two pieces glued together now I don't have that many clamps so I need to go ahead and get these in clamps first that way I can be productive while the glue is drying I've taken the time to group my leg pieces so that the outside two faces of each leg will show the best grain orientation and in order to do this I made sure also to select wood that has about a 45° angle or thereabouts on all the pieces that way this front face will show straight Grain Lines and this side face will show straight Grain Lines these are two boards so the side that has the the glue line will always be on the side the front doesn't have any glue lines on any of these now in order to make sure that they stay in this appropriate orientation throughout the rest of the project I've numbered them one and two for the first leg 3 4 5 6 7 8 so that the numbers as long as they're right side up they will be in the same orientation with one another and then also this represents the the front left leg the rear left leg front right leg rear right leg so that way I don't get this uh confused or mixed up throughout the rest of the process and I know that the final outcome will have the grain that I selected on the faces that I want it to be [Music] show final width of my top panel is going to be wider than the capacity of my planer so I've went ahead and miled all four of the pieces that will make up the top panel Square four sides and to make sure that they remain nice and flat during glue up and don't shift around any I'm going to use floating tenons [Music] in the interest of eliminating some of the repetition for the Milling process I went ahead and got the legs down to their final size milled four Side Square and I also did the exact same thing for the uh short rails and long rails all of these are milled four Sid Square to their appropriate thickness and length including the length needed for the tenin the short rails and the long rails and I also ran a couple pieces of test boards or extra scrap I should say through the planer when I was Milling my um my rails and this will give me an exact same thickness piece that I could use to set up the table saw for cutting the tenin on the rails first though I'm going to go ahead and cut all eight of the mortises on the legs I went ahead and mark the start and stop point for the mortises on the face of the leg and I that's all I need to Mark out here because I know that the guide that I'm going to use to run the router will reference off of both off of both sides so that will keep it tracking in order now these are offset mortises so I don't get confused I went ahead and marked the the side in which the offset will be on for each one of these faces that will receive a mortise and to actually position the mortise it is an offset mortise so we're going to come in from the side 1/4 of an inch this material thickness is 1 and 1/4 of an inch and it's going to have a/ in Tenon in the middle so/ in Tenon means 3/8 of an inch on either side so the/ qu in plus the 38 of an inch before I get to the Tenon tells me that I need to offset the base or the guide on my router jig 5/8 of an inch from one side and the 1/ in router bit will cut a/ in mortise right where this Tenon will be setting up the guide on The Jig is really easy this this side is slightly tightened down so it'll pivot and then just measure over that 5/8 of an inch that I need and then tighten down this side that gives me the first guide exactly 5/8 of an inch away from the bit which is what I need for this mortise with the first guide set I can actually go ahead and start the mortises if I want to referencing off of just one side but I want to prevent The Jig from moving forward and backwards in this direction so I'm going to slide this second guide into place and tighten it down now the router will slide left and right as needed and all I have to do is plunge the mortise when using a plung RoR to make mortises it's best to plunge full depth at the start point and then plunge full depth at the end point of the mortise and then take shallow passes to remove the material in between [Music] there's several different ways to cut tenons on material but I'm going to use the D stack in my table saw it's just quick and easy for me so that same test piece that I milled earlier with my rails I'm using it because it is the exact same thickness to really dial in the height of the blade I have the outside of the blade positioned away from the fence about a 16th of inch less than the depth of my mortise and after a couple passes on one side flipping the board over and making a couple passes on this side uh the test fit should be snug but not too tight this is holding the leg up against gravity yet very easy to pull out as needed and something else I've done is added a sacrificial board to my miter gauge as well as one that is in line with the dado blade I just screwed these two together to where the blade won't hit it and this acts as a dust shroud as I'm pushing this piece through uh the blade the blade is fully enclosed inside this which is a safety benefit which I don't think is really necessary but the main thing I'm doing this for is to keep a shroud basically to force all of that dust into the table instead of flying back into my [Music] workshop the tenants are square the mortises are round so I'm going to knock off the corner by undercutting which I've already done to the Tenon on one side I only have to do this to one side because I made my mortises a little bit long and then I'll just chop off the corner with a chisel and that should fit in there the dry assembly is nice and all the joints are fitting good so now I can take it back apart and cut a taper on the inside two faces of each leg and then also cut a Groove near the top inside of all the rails to accept some tabletop hold down Fasteners I normally make my tapered cuts at the table saw however the thickness of my legs plus the thickness of my tapering jig base is more than the maximum cut capacity of my table saw so this time I'm using my band saw and then I'll clean up those rough faces that the band saw will leave with the jointer sh [Music] he for [Music] and That's all folks