The video explains how to grow higher quality figs from young fig trees by focusing on early structural development rather than fruit production. The core technique involves removing the apical bud—a process called pinching—which encourages the tree to produce scaffolds, or lateral branches. This branching structure improves sunlight exposure and sets the stage for better fruit quality in the second year. While young fig trees naturally produce lower-quality fruit, shaping the tree early through strategic pruning allows for stronger growth and better results down the line, especially when grown in containers.
Ross emphasizes using visual cues like leaf size and overall vigor to determine when to pinch. Large leaves typically indicate the tree is ready to begin forming scaffolds. It's also important to manage the number of figs to avoid letting too many figs form in the first year, as excess fruit can drain energy needed for structural growth. In later seasons, pruning back fruiting branches by 50–75% helps keep the tree productive by stimulating new growth. The overall approach prioritizes long-term productivity and fruit quality by shaping the tree’s foundation early.
Introduction (0:00): Technique shared for getting high-quality figs from young potted trees in their second year.
Pinching Tip (0:30): Removing the apical bud encourages scaffold growth and helps form structure early.
Growth Focus (1:11): Year one is for structure, not fruit quality—early fruit is typically poor.
Multiple Stems (2:01): Two or three stems are acceptable; manage based on growth stage and vigor.
Leaf Check (2:49): Large leaves signal that the tree is ready for pinching and scaffold development.
Excess Fruit (4:32): Too much fruit diverts energy from growth; prioritize vegetative development early.
Pruning Strategy (5:21): Cut back fruiting branches 50–75% in later seasons to rejuvenate and maintain productivity.
All right, fig lovers. This is Ross, the
fig boss. Today's video is perfect for
anybody out there who has a young fig
tree, especially if you're growing it in
a container. This is my little secret
for getting high quality figs by the
second year growing them in a pot. For
many years, a lot of people told me um
that you can't really get high quality
figs until the fig trees are well into
their older years. And I just found um
by doing the technique that I'm going to
teach you guys today, that's not
necessarily true. I will concede that
fig trees when they're young produce
fruit that's of lesser quality. And as
they get older, they will produce higher
quality fruit. All we're going to do is
remove the apical bud
by pinching it. We're going to use our
two fingers. You can use pruning shears
as well. We're just going to remove
that.
What this is going to do is it's going
to encourage your fig tree in about two
weeks to start to send out scaffolds.
It'll also send out some figs if the
fruit buds are present and not as
developed just yet on those on the tree.
Um, but mainly what we're trying to do
here is actually not form fruit. All
these trees here that you're looking at
are in three to five gallon size pots. I
just rooted them this winter time. Um,
we're getting the form established.
We're not evaluating the fruits because
the fruits that are produced from these
trees, as I mentioned, they're not going
to be of a great quality and the taste
is just not going to be up to par. But
next year, in the second year, after we
root them from cutting and put them into
these larger pots, by forming the
scaffolds, now we're getting a really
nice structure. And you can see here on
this tree, I've already removed the
apical bud here. It's missing.
So, some of you guys, by the way, you
might have multiple stems coming from
the base of your tree. See how this one
has two? That's okay. If you have more
than more than two, you have three. I
think three is really the max. You can
see here over on this one, this tree has
two. I've already decided to pinch this
one off. This one still has its apical
bud intact. And the reason for that is
because this one is a bit more advanced
than this one. And you can kind of see
it in the height of it. Um the heights
have kind of caught up now at this
point, but you can also see it in the
size of the leaves. The size of the
leaves basically means once you have
these larger leaves, the tree has really
started to take off. and it also has a
lot of sunlight to grow into specific
areas. So, this tree down here, we're
starting to get a little bit larger
leaves. You can see they're still a bit
small. Um, but this is not really the
right size. I mean, I usually put my
hand on here. I kind of just know it by
eye. Here's another leaf, another tree
that we removed, the apical bud, and you
can see kind of the size of these
leaves. I just put my hand up to it and
if it's bigger than my hand, I know
we've got something good. And it's
usually should be more than one leaf,
not just the one.
So once we do that, and we have the
branches on this particular tree as an
example, we've already removed this
apical bud down here, and this thing's
on its way to forming scaffolds. All I
have to do is stake this away from the
other one so that they're kind of in a V
pattern growing away. That way they're
going to get more sunlight. They're
going to maximize the sunlight in this
given area.
This one here on the right is going to
form scaffolds. Probably two to three
scaffolds, and that's what we want. Now,
here on this one on the left, we're
about at that right size. I think I
probably should wait a little bit
longer, but just for demonstration
purposes, we're going to do it. See this
leaf here? That's a pretty good size.
But these other ones here, I think, are
a little bit too small. But we're going
to do it for demonstration. We're going
to come in here with our thumb
and our pointer finger, and we're just
going to break this off. So simple. Toss
it away. And this in two weeks, we'll be
doing the same thing this one's doing,
forming the scaffolds, and then that way
next year we actually get
really high quality fruit. So, here's
actually another tree we just did this
to. You can see the leaves are rather
large. Um, but also it's got fruit all
up and down this thing. And that's kind
of a problem. Um, the fruit is going to
slow down the growth because all the
fruits, if you think about it, are
sucking away energy, whereas the leaves
are producing energy. So, if you have an
imbalance, too many fruits, your trees
are not going to really grow all that
much. And the whole idea in this first
year is to get these trees to grow and
to form strong long scaffolds.
So you can kind of get an idea with this
tree here. This tree is in a 7 to 10
gallon size pot. You could see we grew
it out as a single stem and then there
in the middle we topped it. And then
after topping it, it formed all these
scaffolds. Some of them are not as
healthy or productive as I would like
them to be. But then you have about
three to four scaffolds in here that
look really good. Then if you trace
these scaffolds up, you then start to
get your fruing branches. So now that
this tree's entered into its third
season, by the end of this, all I have
to do is take these fruing branches,
which you can see here from here to
here, we're going to reduce this by 50
to 75%. I'll do the same thing here on
this one.
all these up here, basically this entire
length of branch. And that will just
rejuvenate the tree. The more we prune
it, the more it wants to grow in the
winter time. And this will keep it
annually productive for a long period of
time. So that's there the video, guys.
Hope you enjoyed this one. Also, check
out my blog, figboss.com. There's tons
of information there. Please hit the
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button. We'll see you for the next
video. Take care.