Jak dbać o rośliny domowe w czasie zimy? Zimowa pielęgnacja roślin

You chose the topic of this video. And where? In this place. Yellow... Yellow leaves. Well, there are probably more of them now. If the older leaves turn yellow, these lower leaves, single leaves, there are no major reasons to worry. It's just a natural process of aging plants. There may also be a situation that the plant does not have much light. Or the lower leaves turn yellow and inside the plant because there is no light there. And why plant such a leaf that does not undergo photosynthesis. That's why it turns yellow. Leaves can also turn yellow in the case of something we have mastered in the plant and we have damaged the leaf tail. And now it is not able to deliver juices to the leaf. That's why it turns yellow. No matter if the leaf turns yellow because it is aging and the plant turns it yellow. When we see a yellow signal, it is necessary to look closely at the plant, leaf tails, lower leaves, nerves, or sometimes there are no pests. This is the first step to take. This leaf has turned all yellow and dry, but there were water stains on it. I told you about water stains recently. It's edema. So here we just have to be careful about watering and air temperature. But if the leaf turns yellow, in this way, turns yellow, turns brown, then we already have a problem with fungal diseases. When there are stains from fungal, bacterial diseases, what to do in this case, I recorded many videos and I will link them to you in the description. They will definitely be useful. Leaves turn yellow because of pests, so let's watch carefully. I don't think there should be a problem with them now, unless we have some defects from the beginning of winter, or we brought some new plants. If you see that your plant is turning yellow and there are more and more yellow leaves, especially from the bottom, if the plant is not watered, there are no fungal diseases on the leaves, there is no pest, and there are more and more yellow falling leaves, it means that the plant lacks light. Now, no wonder, we are looking for a more visible place. In the case of plants such as ficus, azalea, or gardenia, i.e. such woody plants, it is good to move them to the most visible place we have, take care of the increased humidity of the air, or take them to a cooler room. I remind you to wash and clean the leaves. Even a small amount of dust can block a large amount of light, which is not much now anyway. If the plant has fine, delicate leaves, to dust off the leaves of Hamedora, well, it's a big deal. We can simply wash such fine leaves under a shower, with water. It is best to do it when the plant requires watering, but let's try to cover the upper layer of the pot so that water does not get there. We can also wash the leaves with a sprayer. Generally, I am not a fan of spraying, but it helps a little to clean the plant so that the dust does not grow. Remember that the water in the sprayer should be filtered and at room temperature. When cleaning the leaves with a sprayer, be careful about the young, rolled leaves in the roller. Let's try not to get water in there, because ugly spots may appear, fungal diseases. Oh, this one is damaged, the leaf is already drying. And it is worth cutting dry fragments of plants, just clean the plant from what is not needed. I wash the leaves in two ways, with water with a few drops of lemon. The more water, the more lemon juice, and the more lemon juice, the more the leaves shine nicely. But such a glow is not too long-lasting. Or I wash the leaves with Indian honey oil. I add a little bit of gentle washing liquid to the container with about 0.5 liters of water. If it foams too much, I pour it out and add enough water so that there is not too much foam. And then I add 2-3 drops of Indian honey oil 3 drops is the maximum, we can't overdo it either. And remember not to clean the bottom of the leaves. If there is a problem with the pest, e.g. with a beekeeper, who likes to eat from the bottom here, just gently scrub the leaves from the bottom to get rid of the pests, but not to rub the oils or just the preparations with which we wash the plants into the ashtrays, so as not to just push them. Indian honey oil. But it doesn't smell so nice. It smells like dog food. I don't know, such a strange dog food. We water the plants sparingly, but before we water the plants, we check if the soil is dry. And not from the top, just stick your finger in the soil, deep into the pot and check if it is completely dry, if it is already dry enough that you need to add a little water to the plant. And it's worth it, if we have a problem with plants now, that we spilled a little, let's switch to watering in the base. I remind you to prepare the water for watering earlier, to get a room temperature. Do not water the plants with water that is too cold or warm. We water the plants in the base, but let's not do something like that we pour water into a larger vessel, insert the plant, we will see that the substrate has already soaked with water and then we put another plant in the same water. It is better to avoid this, because pathogens can get to the water from one plant, and then from the water to the next plant. That's why I recommend just a higher base, watering a higher base. If we have water left, we just pour it out. Unfortunately, some waste, but there is a smaller risk that diseases will move from plant to plant. Well, unless our plants are healthy, nothing happens to them, well, we can take a risk. But as I mention it, so that it does not happen. Let the hand of the Mother Nature protect us, so that we do not overdo the plants now, especially succulents, and we do not reproduce them either. Seeds sprout, but they will stretch out strongly to the sun. If we overdo the plants now, they will be stimulated to grow from excess nutrients and they will start to stretch out badly. Oh, I have to water this one and stabilize it in the pot. And all plants that come into contact with cold windows, we move away from the windows. And let's also pay attention to what kind of windows we have. If there is even a radiator under the window, the window is heated from below, it can be cold from above. Let's try to isolate plants from a cold window, for example, with some insulation mat, or thicker plastic bases. I will not show you this now, because it is dark, so maybe just with plant updates. I recently mentioned to you about a three-step, which is on the windowsill and blows a little heat on it from the radiators. And I forgot that it is enough to put a few vessels with water to beat the humidity of the air. It should not dry out like that anymore. And when it comes to the humidity of the air, it is worth grouping the plants with each other. Then the humidity of the air around them is much higher. Simply, the water from the substrate also evaporates and it has a good effect on our plants. We can put a vessel with water. When it comes to air insulators, I only have such small evo... evo... pa... that the steam just blows, let's pay attention to the fact that the steam does not fly directly on the leaves, so that fungal diseases do not occur. Let's just twist it in such a way that the steam flies around somewhere, but does not blow directly on the leaves. I can't have another air insulator in the apartment due to electronic and musical equipment. If you have a few such plants that require higher humidity of the air, I remind you of the method of a larger substrate, which we can fill with stones, ceramic, we pour it with water and put the plant on it. Just be careful that the bottom of the pot does not touch the water. Alternatively, we can just put the plant on the substrate, or instead of pebbles, put another smaller substrate and pour water all around. If we have pebbles, we have ceramic, this is a wet surface, it is enlarged, there is just more humidity around the plant. Water containers with water will always be very useful. They are placed on grids or hung, such special air insulators, just a container to which we pour water. In the winter, when the temperature is more or less constant, the humidity of the air is lower, we water the plant from above, then there is a lack of air in the substrate, the soil starts to break down every time we water it. Therefore, it is worth using a stick to loosen the top layer of the soil, but gently, so as not to damage the roots. And it is worth doing it, especially when mold appears. When mold appears, we just loosen the top layer of the soil, we can cover it with perlite, sand, mix it with the top layer and just air it. Mold on the ground appears in a few cases, and now, especially in winter, when the air circulation is weak, there is too much moisture in the pot, it likes to appear a bloom on the ground. Therefore, it is worth watering the plant in this time, if we have a problem with mold, in the substrate. All you have to do is make sure that the substrate is sufficiently airy, does not accumulate too much moisture in itself. If this happens, we replace it, loosen it, air it with a stick and the problem should disappear. If there is no problem with mold, but you see that the substrate in the pot is so hard, crumpled and begins to protrude from the wall of the pot, then such a substrate should also be aired. Just air it with a stick, fill it in a few places, also gently loosen the top, so as not to damage too many roots. It is best not to water the plant immediately after such airing, because we can damage some roots. When we water from moisture, damage, problems may begin to appear in the roots, so after such loosening, it is worth waiting a few days with watering. It is also worth airing the substrate, especially when the substrate dries much longer than before. I remind you to prepare water for watering earlier, to get a room temperature. Do not water the plants with water that is too cold or too warm. I remind you that it is worth to turn the plants a little when watering. If the plant is not like this, but more bushy, has more leaves, is denser, it is worth turning it 180 degrees to make it evenly illuminated. In the case of such plants, we have to maneuver a little, look at how the plant is now and try to make the leaves more illuminated and turn it a little. If the plant stands in one place and spring comes, we do not even realize that the plant starts to release new shoots, new leaves, it will start to pull out, curve in search of light. And it will be a bit of a problem to straighten it, so let's turn the plants. A little movement will also be useful to it, it will strengthen the shoots. Just watch out for cold draughts. Fortunately, this year nothing has suffered from a cold draught yet. Yet. Some plants may require tying to the shoots. I remind you, it is best to do it with some elastic materials, e.g. a rubber band, something that will not be stiff and will not wrinkle in the shoots. As if the plant is still, it grows tied to the shoots, it does not rub, but it grows, it thickens. And we may just at some point not realize that such a string, for example, or wire, will start to grow, I mean, the plant will start to grow into what it was tied to. So, let's pay attention, what we tie the plants with. And does the plant rust when the air humidity is low? You probably know my opinion on this topic, but if we use soft water, filtered water, and the water from the leaves evaporates quite quickly, there is no trace of it, especially now, after two, three hours, I think there will be no problem with this, then we can try to rust. At least we will have less dust cleaning from the leaves. But if there are any spots on the leaves, suspicion that there is some fire, then we absolutely do not rust such a plant. Well, we do not want the disease to spread all over the plant. And if we see some small, small spot, do we cut such a leaf? I usually stop and observe, whether it is getting bigger, or there are additional spots. If I see that it is getting bigger, there are more spots, then I just cut such a leaf. And for now, I stop with any procedures, I observe, whether it was just a one-off adventure, or there are more spots on the leaves. If there are spots, then I pull out the plant, I do not pay attention to what time of year it is, I just take it out of the ground and check what is happening in the roots. Well, they certainly rot, if there are a lot of spots on the leaves. And this is an amaryllis onion, which I have already mentioned to you many times, which I got. And how it will bloom, because it is put into a container with water, it is with such onions, well, not only amaryllis, for example, it can be hyacinth, narcissus, tulip. I saw it in stores, so maybe someone bought it from you at home. We can put such onions into the ground, especially amaryllis, I have to put it into the ground later, so that these leaves, which are small here, can produce, then, so that the leaves will cover the onion, so that in the next year there will be bigger flowers, more flowers. So I have to make sure that the onion will release the leaves, and then I will also have to take care of fertilization. All plants, really onion, bulbous, like fertilization. There is a storage of nutrients here, so the more nutrients we provide, the nicer the plants, the bigger the flowers, and the more abundant the flowering. We can introduce some spring into our home, just by planting, for example, in glass dishes spring onion plants. We can cut off the branches of early spring bushes from the garden, blooming early spring, for example, forsythias, or, for example, plums. If the plant has no pests, is not watered, has no fungal diseases on the leaves, and yellows, then we move closer to the light. And let's also pay attention to whether it is sometimes too hot and whether the air is not too dry. These are hints, it is not a universal hint, but these three factors may affect that the plants will now yellow more. Do we fertilize plants in winter? If we see that they release leaf by leaf, it is worth strengthening them a little, feeding them. But in January, I let go of fertilization. I will fertilize a little in February. If we light the plants, and we see that they are full of vegetation all the time, then, of course, we feed them as standard. If we are afraid of fertilization, we can use leaf fertilizers. And I would go for half of the recommended dose, which is given in the package. In winter, however, it is worth strengthening plants with humus acids. They are not somehow heavily loaded with nutrients, but their effect is that they strengthen the root system. And now, in winter, it is quite important. I mentioned leaf fertilization, and I keep begonias, which do not like humus, especially leaf fertilization. I remind you of such delicate plants, which do not like humus, despite the fact that they like moist air. Begonias, three-leaf clover, pepperomias, they like to rot very quickly, when they are humed. All delicate, hanging succulents, but also calathea. Huming is not for them. I often appear, well, the mushroom comes out on the leaves, when we hum calathea. Such a hum will die faster. Well, my dear, now, in winter, the most important thing is not to overdo it, not to be too greedy. But if something happens to the plant, we take it under control, we observe whether changes are taking place. Well, I hope that you will rather have greenery, not yellow. Stay warm. Until next time.