For our final adventure in Vietnam we went on an EPIC motorbike trip in the northern part of the country. And we definitely saved the best for last! The first 3 days of the trip took us on part of the famous Ha Giang Loop to the Cao Bang Province. We rode up and down crazy mountain passes, took a boat ride through the deepest canyon in Southeast Asia, went to the northernmost point of the country, looked into China, visited our guide's village, and saw way too many insane views to count.
⌚Timestamps 00:00 Introduction 00:43 Why we aren’t driving ourselves 01:31 Meet our guides 01:47 And we’re off! 02:00 First impressions of the motorbikes 03:30 Bac Sum Pass 04:20 Heavens Gate 05:22 About Vietnam’s Ethnic Minorities 06:40 Lunch in Yen Minh 07:33 Tham Ma Pass 08:21 Visiting our guide’s Hmong village 10:00 Thoughts on the scenery so far 10:28 Staying in Dong Van 11:40 Plans for day 2 12:15 We’re RIGHT by China! 12:35 Lũng Cú Flag Tower 14:57 Mã Pí Lèng Pass 16:48 Boat Ride on the Nho Quế River 20:32 Ending the night in Meo Vac 21:05 We’re leaving the Ha Giang Loop 21:32 Off the tourist path 22:50 We made it to Cao Bang! 23:04 Fried chicken lunch 24:02 Khau Coc Cha Mountain Pass 25:08 The journey to our homestay 26:58 Mế Farmstay
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We've hopped on a six-hour bus from Hanoi and headed north to Ha Giang, where for the
next six days we'll be going on an epic motorbike adventure through northern Vietnam.
We'll be riding through small villages, seeing amazing mountain views and scenery, going
to the largest waterfall in the country, checking out a gorgeous lake, and so much more.
And for the first part of the journey, we're going to be riding part of the Ha Giang loop.
The Ha Giang loop is a roughly 350 kilometer multi-day motorbike loop through Vietnam's
It's said to be one of the best things to do in Vietnam, and it's what we have been
most excited for on this entire trip.
Riding motorbikes in Southeast Asia has been a bucket list item for us for years, but we
encountered a bit of a hurdle when we started to plan this.
Long story short, it turns out that we cannot drive a motorbike over 50 cc's here legally,
and while many people do drive them without a valid license or permit, our health insurance
would not be valid if something happened to us.
So we have hired easy riders instead, which are guides that will drive us, and we'll be
on the back.
We're not going to lie, this felt pretty lame at first, but in the end, we think it's going
to be even better.
We've never driven a motorcycle before, so this will be the safest, plus we'll be able
to enjoy the scenery more by not having to focus on the road, and we'll learn a lot by
having guides with us.
And speaking of guides, we hired our guides through a company called Ha Giang Road Trip,
which is a small company with local guides, and this morning, we're meeting up with them
to kick off this epic motorbike adventure.
Meet Nova and Hugh, our guides, dance partners, and family for the next week on the road.
Nice to meet you.
Here we go!
I've got so many thoughts.
We are just getting started.
We're maybe 20 minutes in, and the scenery is already incredible.
It is so much fun.
I've never really understood the hype of riding motorcycles or anything, and my dad's side
of the family has always been into it, but I'm starting to get it now.
This is a lot of fun.
Yeah, as Adam said, we're about 20, 30 minutes in, and this is already my favorite thing
we have done in Vietnam.
I'm so excited for the rest of the week.
The smile has not come off my face, and I think it's going to be like this the entire
time.
It's like I'm just looking around, like, smile.
My cheeks are going to hurt by the end of this.
I will say, though, my hips are kind of starting to hurt from just kind of the way that my
legs are sitting, so I might have to do some stretching.
Good thing we are stopping for some breaks, which is what we're doing right now, so.
The road is starting to get a lot more mountainous.
This drive is known for its many mountain passes, windy and narrow roads, drop-offs,
and rocky cliff sides, and as we started to drive further from Ha Giang, we left the valley
and began our first big climb of Bac Sum Pass.
As we climbed up this pass, my ears are popping a little bit, and the temperature has dropped
a few degrees.
It feels real nice.
We have made it to our first major stop, the Heaven's Gate.
The Heaven's Gate sits at about 1,500 meters and has sweeping views of the mountains, rice
fields, and villages, and it even has a cafe where you can grab drinks.
We got ourselves a mango smoothie, and I can confidently say this is the best view I've
ever had while drinking a mango smoothie.
Just like our cave tour, they have named some things along the way after female anatomy.
Yeah, furry boobies.
Vietnam is home to 54 ethnic minorities, and this area of northern Vietnam, near the China
border, is home to the Hamong ethnic minority.
We stopped at a beautiful lookout where we got to see one of the many villages in this
area, and Nova told us that due to the rocky terrain, they can really only grow corn.
See all of the golden brown on the ground?
Those are the cornfields that in a few months will become green and full of corn.
Oh my gosh.
The elevation changes on this drive has just been insane.
We started deep down in these valleys, and then the driver points to it and says,
we're going way up there, and I'm like, there's no way.
And it happens in like a minute and a half.
Yeah, and you just zoom up the mountain.
Oh man, how wild.
We've made it to the town of Yen Minh, and it's time for lunch.
Oh my gosh, the food never ends.
Our guys would always order us a handful of local dishes, and we'd eat family style,
sampling everything on the table.
The food was always delicious.
So good.
I'm so hungry right now.
And the perfect fuel before getting back onto the bike for the rest of the day.
Still getting the hang of getting on the bike.
About to go up the dam.
We just came up that.
It's so cool to be able to come up it and then get on top and be able to see where you
just came from.
On the Ha Giang Loop, there are beautiful surprises around every corner.
But one of the best surprises was a detour we took to Nova's village.
Nova's part of the Hmong ethnic minority and spent part of his childhood in a small village
right by the loop.
And to get there, we went down a windy mountainous road in an area full of rocky mountains and
fields, which create one of the coolest natural contrasts we have ever seen.
We got to visit his uncle's house and meet his aunt, plus some of their cute animals.
Hi!
We also got to see the school he walked five kilometers every day to get to and learned
about how self-sufficient the Hmong are, utilizing natural resources like rainwater to have drinking
water, plus cows to plow the fields since the terrain is too steep and rocky for machinery.
We left feeling extremely grateful to have local guides that can share part of their
culture with us and open their home to us.
Learning about how others grew up and live is one of the best parts of travel.
It opens your eyes to different ways of life and helps you appreciate things that you take
for granted every day.
Watch out!
What an incredibly special experience.
This is exactly why we wanted to hire a guide, because we wanted to learn more about the
culture of the people who live in this part of Vietnam, and this is something that we
could have never done on our own.
Yeah, this is making me kind of glad we didn't drive ourselves!
The scenery has been jaw-dropping the entire day.
I don't think we've had one second without just a gorgeous view around us.
We just made one final stop before we get to our stopping point for the day, and just
look at this.
These mountains are just towering.
They're so dramatic looking.
Every single person we've met since being here in Vietnam said that this was the most
beautiful part of the country, and they are a thousand percent correct.
The cost of the private tour we booked is $660 USD per person, which is our most expensive
experience here in Vietnam, but this includes all of our meals, the bikes, our guides, any
entrance fees, and the lodging for the entire trip.
And each night we're staying in a different place, and tonight we're staying in a hotel
in Dong Van, which is a much bigger town than we were expecting, and our room is simple,
but it's pretty nice.
We've got two beds, a full bathroom, AC, and Wi-Fi.
We have another feast for dinner, and I'm so excited!
Mmm!
So good!
Today we're riding from Dong Van to Meo Vac, which we hear may be the most scenic part
of the entire trip, so we are super excited.
But first, we're taking a quick detour to the Luan Ku Flag Tower.
We're getting really close to the flag tower, but the road leading to it goes really close
to the China border, right on the top of this hill here.
We can see the fence along the border.
Oh my gosh, there's China!
That's China right there!
Every time we are near a border, I just freak out because I think it's the coolest thing
ever to be able to see into another country.
That is a huge flag!
We are heading up to the top of the flagpole, and to get there, we have to walk up about
400 steps or so.
I am so out of breath right now.
The tower is 33 meters tall and represents the northernmost point of Vietnam, although
the border with China and the actual northernmost point is still a few kilometers north, and
the flag at the top is 54 square meters, representing the 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam.
The view from up here is incredible.
You're kind of in a bowl of these pointy mountains.
It's spectacular.
As you can tell, it's really windy.
They picked a great spot to have a flag waving.
The next mountain is China.
Vamanos!
I figured since they're teaching me Vietnamese, I can teach them the little bit of Spanish
that I know.
Cheers!
We made it back to Dong Van and we just had a delicious fried rice lunch, and now we're
off to Ma Pi Leng Pass, which is said to be the most beautiful pass in all of Vietnam.
This is incredible!
This is some of the craziest scenery I've ever seen.
Wow.
Oh my gosh!
Wow!
Wow.
Wow!
Yeah!
That wasn't even the pass.
Now we're going on the pass.
Riding along the steep mountains of the Ma Pi Leng Pass is an incredible experience in
itself, but even more so when you think about how it came to be.
The 185-kilometer road from Ha Giang, where we started, to Meo Vac, where we'll be ending
our day, was a huge feat to build.
From 1959 to 1965, thousands of local workers plus volunteers from nearby provinces built
this road using mostly hand tools and enduring tough terrain and conditions.
And upon its completion, it was given the nickname Happiness Road because of how many
people came together to open rural parts of Vietnam to the rest of the country, giving
locals more opportunities.
And we can confirm that it brought a lot of happiness to us as well.
This view is insane.
You have these towering mountains and the Nho Que River running right through it, which
originates in China.
Not only do we get to see the river from above.
What a drive that was, huh?
That was crazy.
Thousands of feet down.
That was crazy.
Everything is sore because I was holding on so hard.
Going downhill is tough to stay in the saddle.
Not only does this boat ride take us on the river, but it also takes us through Tucson
Alley, which is the deepest canyon in Southeast Asia.
This is a massive canyon.
We're right in between the tallest part of the walls.
We've driven through some big canyons, but I don't think we've ever boated through one.
This is crazy.
I can't even fit the whole canyon in the camera anymore.
It's so tall.
Apparently you can swim on this boat trip, so here we go.
It's cold.
I don't have a swimsuit.
Swimming in the deepest canyon in Southeast Asia.
Just check out that view.
That was awesome.
That was absolutely magical.
If you come here, try to come close to sunset because the golden lighting was just stunning.
Our guides are just too much fun.
Now we have the steep ride back up.
After making the short but steep drive to Mayo Vac,
we checked into our hotel for the night before heading out to dinner with our guides.
We had asked Hugh what his favorite food was earlier in the day,
and he said goat meat, so we enjoyed some goat hot pot in his honor.
Oh boy, what a day.
It was a short day in terms of distance, but it was loaded with epicness,
and we are so pooped.
Here in Mayo Vac is normally where you'd start to head south on the Hazang Loop,
but we're actually not going to be finishing the full loop
and instead are going to continue 160 kilometers east towards Cao Bang.
While we wish we could see the second half of the loop,
we still have so many more amazing spots we're going to check out over the next four days,
and we cannot wait.
One, two, three, day three!
Day three started out with super windy roads, down mountains, and through small villages,
and one big difference that we noticed from the previous days
is that there were no other tourists around.
Even though the Hazang Loop is pretty remote and takes a bit of work to get to,
it is extremely popular with tourists,
and today it felt like we were just riding with the locals.
We had done a ton of research on the Hazang Loop and seen many photos,
but for this next part of the drive, we really have no idea what to expect,
which is making today extra exciting as everything is kind of a surprise,
and they just took us to this bridge on a river,
and we came across some local kids that are just swimming and jumping in the water,
and it is just awesome.
We're giving them our GoPro so they can jump off with it.
So cool!
That's awesome.
We've stopped for lunch in the village of Bao Loc,
and we've got a fried chicken feast.
We also have a huge mound of sweet potato leaf topped with tons of garlic and sticky rice.
I like all the crispies on there.
Good and crispy, tender, juicy.
I got a really fatty piece. I like it.
Thank you!
That pass that we just went up is called Co Co Cha,
and it also has another name that means pig intestines in Vietnamese
because it is so windy. It has 14 different turns.
That was the craziest road I've ever been on.
The top of the pass has the cutest cat, the sweetest cat,
probably the friendliest cat I've ever met, actually.
Me too.
Me too!
The road is pretty crazy too.
One thing I like about this tour is that we make frequent stops,
not only to admire the scenery, but just to give your body a little bit of a break too.
How's your butt doing?
It's currently inflating right now.
Tonight we're staying at the Mae Farm stay in the Na Ma village,
and this place is a magical garden just tucked between tons of mountains.
We have a private room, which is basically made out of all wood,
and more importantly, we have a private bathroom.
And this place just feels like absolute paradise.
And they have a dog! This is the best place ever!
It has been an incredible first few days.
It's almost hard to put into words just how special this trip has been,
but luckily it is not over yet.
We still have three more days on this motorbike trip,
and so much more to see, so stay tuned.
He's like an astronaut.
Houston, we have a problem.
Oh my gosh!
The camera eats first.
That was cooler in my head.
And more importantly, we have a private bathroom.
It's as heavy as you.
He won't let us carry it, but it's so heavy.
He's like a robot.
Yeah, like a robot.