The second half of our Northern Vietnam motorbike tour took us through the Cao Bang Province to Ba Be Lake National Park, with a stop at Vietnam's largest waterfall (Ban Gioc), two beautiful boat rides, an amazing homestay with the cutest puppies and local music and dancing, a little bit of a mishap, and so much more.
⌚Timestamps 00:00 Introduction 01:06 Pac Bo and the Lenin River 03:27 The cutest traffic jam ever! 03:52 Lunch at a local restaurant 04:31 The plan for the rest of the day 04:44 Thoughts on the motorbike after 4 days 05:40 Coffee break! 06:55 Đá cầu (Vietnamese game) break! 07:52 Thoughts on the scenery vs. Ha Giang 09:09 The BEST welcome committee ever! 09:42 Yen Nhi Homestay near Ban Gioc (Our FAVORITE night!) 12:05 Tich Truc Lam temple by Ban Gioc 13:36 Ban Gioc waterfall 16:52 Trying chestnuts 17:22 Riding along the China border 18:56 Road conditions & cell service along the way 19:20 Side trip to Angel Eye Mountain 22:04 We made it to Cao Bang! 22:47 The start of our final day 23:32 It’s raining today (our cute outfits) 24:37 Hieu looks like a…. 24:58 Adam and Hieu crashed 26:43 We made it to Ba Be Lake 27:01 Ba Be Lake boat ride 28:21 The perfect final night 28:56 Saying goodbye 😭to our guides 29:07 Back to Hanoi! 29:30 Final thoughts on our motorbike trip
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👋🏼 About us Hi y’all! We’re Adam, Kathryn, and Kona, an adventurous married couple (+ pup!) living on the road in our self-converted sprinter van! You can often find us driving all around the US and Canada, scoping out the best coffee shops, eating tacos and ice cream (we're a 5+ taco and 2+ scoop household), and enjoying nature.
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This week we're going on an epic motorbike adventure through the
breathtaking mountains of northern Vietnam.
We just finished spending a couple days driving part of the Ha Giang loop
where we conquered crazy mountain passes, went on a boat ride, and saw too many
gorgeous views to count before making the scenic drive east to the Cao Bang
province. And over the next few days we're going
to be exploring Vietnam's largest waterfall.
I am pretty sure that we are floating on China right now.
Visiting one of its national parks, experiencing the local culture,
and so much more with tons of fun memories and a little mishap along the
way. Are you okay? This morning we are
continuing our road trip through the Cao Bang province and first up we are
heading just up the road from where we stayed last night to the Lenin river in
Pacbo. So I guess we have to hop on a tram to
get the rest of the way. Like we mentioned in our last video we
know a lot less about this stretch of our road trip so everything is just a
fun surprise. Pacbo is home to the Lenin river which is a stunning and
refreshing spring-fed river with a vibrant turquoise color.
This water is crystal clear and there are so many fish just right here along
the bank here. Like hundreds of them. When they kind of
turn over or rotate in the water they're super silver. So pretty. While this place
is loaded with natural beauty it also has some pretty interesting history
as well. In January 1941 after 30 years away Ho Chi
Minh returned to Vietnam. When he did he lived in this area first
with a local family but then in the Coc Bo cave.
Here is where he began to coordinate the independence movement from France
and just four years later he became the leader of Vietnam.
It is now considered to be one of the most important historical sites in the
country. This was such an incredible spot. Adam
just described it as idyllic and I think that's the perfect word. It's just so
peaceful. All I hear right now are just birds chirping, the water flowing, the
water's so blue. It's just so green and lush.
I had no idea this place existed and I'm so glad we came here.
Back on the bikes. Cutest little walk-a-go's little babies too.
Cutest traffic jam ever. Nova and Hugh have been taking us to some
delicious local restaurants and we have not been disappointed yet and today
we have some kind of looks like slow roasted pork ribs,
some soup, some spinach, some spring rolls and then all the sauces and some rice.
Oh my gosh, that is good. This pork is kind of like pork belly. It is
so fatty and so rich and it's piping hot so it just melts in your mouth.
It's so hot. We have about a hundred kilometers more to drive today and I
don't think we have any major stops but the scenery should be really beautiful.
This is our fourth day on the motorbike now and I gotta say I'm still loving
every minute of it. I've been able to enjoy the scenery
fully. I'm usually the one that drives us everywhere
so I can't always enjoy all the scenery but
I've been able to do that on this trip and it's
so fun and beautiful. It is a lot more of a workout than I thought it would be.
When you're going downhill and uphill you really gotta
hold yourself in place a bit more than I thought you would but
overall love it. We are making a quick stop for fuel for the bikes and fuel for
us because we are tired. As Adam mentioned we just
didn't expect this to be such a workout. Your
your knees tense up, your butt tenses up, you're just working all these muscles
that maybe you don't normally work so we're
just extra tired. Look at these coffees. They bring it to you with a candle
underneath to keep it hot. Oh my gosh. So cool. We had to get hot
coffees because as you may have noticed we've put on jackets now and the last
few days have been so hot and sunny. We actually bought our
family some chocolate and it's been in our backpacks
and after one of the days the chocolate melted so much that it was
liquid inside of the wrapping. It has firmed up since though thankfully
but it's only 72 degrees fahrenheit out which isn't that cold at all. It's
actually kind of warm but with no sun out today and just the wind
whipping you. We had goosebumps on part of the ride
earlier. Oh yeah. I freaking love Vietnamese
coffee. It's so good. Hi. Hello. Stretching break.
Sometimes we stop for coffee breaks and sometimes we stop for stretching and
whatever this is breaks.
They're good. The scenery on this ride is sick.
We almost just had a why did the chicken cross the road and the answer would have
been to get hit by a motorbike but
thankfully we did not hit the chicken. Oh my gosh that was close though.
We just made it to our home for the night and there are dogs so I already
love it here. Come here. Oh my gosh. Hi.
Oh you're gonna bite me. It's biting my arm.
Cutie. Are you so cute? You're so cute.
This is the best. I'm so happy. As if this place couldn't get any better
there's a freaking cave here. What? Tonight we're staying at the Yen Nhi
homestay which is right next to the Ban Gioc
waterfall which is what we're gonna check out tomorrow and this place is
amazing. Like Catherine mentioned there's a cave here, super cute dogs, we
have our own private room, private bathroom and it is surrounded
by gorgeous scenery.
And now there are just cows walking down the street including some really cute
babies. This place is awesome.
The Yen Nhi homestay is located in A Te village which is the second largest
ethnic minority group in Vietnam and as we enjoyed dinner we were able to learn
a bit about the Tay culture, hear traditional songs and do a traditional
dance.
I only kicked it once.
That was so much fun, so amazing to be a part of.
Bye, I'll miss you. You're a good doggie, okay?
This morning we're heading to Ban Gioc, the largest waterfall in Vietnam.
Before we actually go to the waterfall we're making a quick stop at a nearby
temple which is supposed to have amazing views
of the area at the top and of the waterfall.
We see the waterfall! The Ban Gioc waterfall is on the border
between Vietnam and China and those mountains on the other side of the water
is China which is so wild. The waterfall is more than 300
meters wide and 30 meters tall making it not only the largest waterfall in
Vietnam but the fourth largest cross-border waterfall in the world
behind only Iguazu, Victoria and Niagara Falls and we've now been to two
out of the four. The best way to truly grasp its size is from a drone but
since we're on the border with China it's not a good idea to fly a drone here
so this overlook is a good substitution but now we're going to head down to the
base of the falls to see them from eye level.
This is amazing. The waterfall has so many streams of water. It kind of
reminds us of Bernie Falls in California with just so many
terraces and cascades. You can see a lot more of the waterfall from down here and
yeah there's just so many streams. There's streams there,
streams there, streams everywhere. It's extreme.
It's extreme. We're here in the dry season so if you google photos of this
waterfall it has a lot more water than this. They actually open up a dam every
day around 10 30 a.m to let more water out so if you come here in the dry
season don't expect for it to look exactly like you see in the photos but
it is still so impressive. Each individual waterfall would be
impressive just on its own if that's all that was here.
The whole reason we came to this area was for this waterfall and when we found
out that we were coming in the dry season and that there might not be as
much water as the photos we saw online we
kind of questioned whether we should still come but now being here and seeing
it with our own eyes it is way more impressive than we even
thought it would be and we 100% recommend coming and seeing this.
I was so scared that this waterfall was going to be lame and it was going to be
a letdown but I cannot stop smiling. I love this
waterfall. It is incredible. Not only can you check out the
waterfall from various viewpoints on land but you can also take a boat for
$50,000 per person and get up right by them so we're
obviously gonna go do it. These rafts are made out of, this looks
like the big wide PVC pipes. It's a bunch of
them. Cool. So everyone on this boat right here
is from China. We just got to wave at them.
How cool is it that we have people from different countries all enjoying this
experience together? I just think that's the coolest thing
ever.
I am pretty sure that we are floating on China right now.
Wow. Our phone also thinks we're in China because it's an hour ahead.
1 30 instead of 12 30 Vietnam time. And now we're back in Vietnam. I think
these are hazelnuts. Nova just bought a whole bag of them.
Oh those are so good. They're boiled I think, right?
They are fried. They're fried. Oh it's like, it's soft. It's like
starchy, like a kind of potato. Yeah, that's good.
We have 130 kilometers to our final stop for today of Cao Bang City.
It's just so neat to see China right across. These chickens have a death wish.
Pretty epic. Oh my gosh, how cute. Just a few obstacles, horses,
water buffalo. This road is so sketchy. Oh my gosh, the view is insane and this
road is terrifying. Oh my gosh, we are
off-roading now. Yeah, we're doing off-road. Oh my gosh.
Oh my gosh, we're still going. We're still going.
I think it makes them both. That was the most thrilling part of this
entire five-day journey so far. That was a
fun ride. This right behind me is called Angel
Mountain Eye and it's a mountain that just has a humongous
hole just in the middle of it. This is just such a gorgeous setting. There are
all these rolling green hills, tons of buffalo
roaming around, and then just mountains everywhere.
He let me off to walk up this really steep part, which is probably a good idea
because I was kind of dreading it. The thought of
it really made me scared. All right. Beep beep.
The horns got so close to me. We have made it to Cow Bang. There's a
bigger building here than I thought there would be.
This is a big city. After being in remote areas
for five days now, it's so strange to be in a city with just so much going on.
Day five done. We did it.
We didn't bring our camera out with us last night, but we wish we had because we
ended up going to the weekend night market and it was so fun hanging out
with all the locals.
But today is our last day on the motorbikes and we're heading about 130
kilometers from here in Cow Bang to Ba Be Lake National Park.
Since it's a longer drive and we want to have time to see the lake, we're going to
try to get there with minimal stops. How cool do I look right now? I look like
I'm about to like tear down a house with asbestos or do like an
open heart surgery or something. You can't tell it's
raining out today. We luckily have had great weather or
mostly great weather the whole time, but the last day it has decided to rain.
So this is what I get to look like today.
Uh-oh, you did it wrong. Rain doesn't stand a chance with this gear.
How's your surgery? I mean, how's your ride going so far? The patient is doing
okay. They're in stable condition, but I'm kind of worried. No, it was
great. A little wet, but that's part of it, right?
We're definitely going pretty slow, but if we had to have rain on any of the
days of this trip, this is probably the best day because it's the day with the
least amount of scenic driving, so we hear. So we're feeling very lucky that
the weather has held out until now. Hugh in his green outfit, he kind of
looks like a Teletubby. This is what you look like today.
Oh, Adam and Hugh just slid out. My heart is beating so fast.
Are you okay? That was scary. Oh my gosh, I heard it happen. That scared me so bad.
Oh my gosh, I've been so scared that was gonna happen all day.
Are you okay? Yeah. Are you sure? I think so. It's got like my hand. Is your hand okay?
Yeah, I think so. Are you okay, Hugh? I'm sorry. That's all right, it's okay.
I just want to make it clear that our drivers have been
impeccable the entire time. They've driven so safely.
I just want to make it very clear we don't blame them or
think they were driving bad or anything like that. They have done an incredible
job keeping us safe and accidents can happen and
thankfully everyone was okay. Scary but it's gonna be okay. Well,
thankfully all the humans are safe but I think our camera broke. It was in a
bag that was loose that fell on the ground and we're not sure if it's the
lens that's broken or the camera but the lens will not go into focus and
yeah the screen kind of comes on really delayed so we'll have to
diagnose it later but if that's the worst thing that happened
it's okay. You can replace technology. You can't replace humans.
All right, back in the saddle.
So scary. The accident definitely shook us a bit but in the wise words of Taylor
Swift we decided to shake it off and enjoy what
was left of our amazing trip. We still had a bit of driving to go but
thankfully it went super smoothly and safely
and after a couple more hours we made it to Babay Lake.
I see the lake.
We did it. We're going on a boat ride. Babay Lake is the largest natural lake in
Vietnam and is actually three lakes connected by channels with
Babay meaning three lakes in the Tay language.
The lake lies in the middle of a vast limestone mountain range in Babay
National Park with its depth up to 35 meters.
It is absolutely gorgeous out here. The mountains have a completely different
look than the mountains that we have been seeing but they're still so unique
with just these interesting shapes to them and
these like super rocky cliff sides. That boat ride was awesome. The moody
weather, the lake, and all the green covering the
mountain sides just gave me Pacific Northwest vibes.
Tonight we're staying at a homestay in the Nam Mo village which is home to the
Tay ethnic minority right along Babay Lake.
We have our own private bedroom, private bathroom,
and a gorgeous view of all the mountains around. We spent the evening enjoying a
delicious dinner full of local foods like fish from the lake and bamboo
which was the perfect way to end an exciting, beautiful,
and extremely special week motorbiking around northern Vietnam.
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you guys.
Group hug.
See you. Bye. Normally this tour ends back in Ha Giang but we have a flight
out of Hanoi tomorrow so instead we're taking a five-hour bus ride to Hanoi.
We have safely made it back to Hanoi and I cannot think of a better way to end
our time in Vietnam than motorbiking around the north.
We're struggling to put into words just how incredible of an experience that was
but we truly saved the best for last. This trip was just
really, really special. We got to experience other cultures in a way that
we never have before, met amazing people, and saw stunning
scenery. There were so many big epic moments but also so many small moments
like just hanging out with our guys that we will cherish forever
and of course every adventure has to have a little mishap to make things even
more memorable. A huge thank you to Nova and Q for taking
us around and being so fun to hang out with during the last week. You guys are
the best. We'll link to Ha Giang Road Trip's
website below if you'd like to experience this part of Vietnam with a
guide or on a motorbike. They have a variety of tours and we are
so glad that we got EZ Riders because it helped us enjoy the experience so much
more. If we were driving on our own we would
have crashed many more times. Those roads out there are no joke.
Yeah, I don't like to think about what it would have been like if it was just
the two of us out there. EZ Riders were a thousand percent the way to go.
But we're here in Hanoi for the night and then tomorrow we're going to be
flying to Ho Chi Minh City to begin our multi-day journey
back to Texas. But before we leave Asia we have a fun layover in Singapore
planned. Assuming we don't have flight delays.
I was just used as a photo prop. A girl wanted a photo with me.
And not to try to one-up him but two men wanted a photo with me
earlier. So we're hot commodities here. She like had her arms around my waist
like up in a field. So popular again today.
Nice to meet you. Have a good day. Look at you.
We have our own film crew now.
They're watching our videos right now at lunch.
Ready to eat. The camera ate already. Thank you for asking.
He knows us too well now.