BoltBuster - Crux Monster climbing bolts tested in 45 degrees with slow motion

HowNOT2
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13 Video Views·Jan 8, 2020
We tested 12mm crux monster bolts from http://www.bolt-products.com/ in a 45 degree angle in order to simulate the anchors we have at the GGBY festival. https://ggbygathering.org/ We had very different results with our shear and tension test in sandstone vs concrete samples. We cover all the numbers in this episode. Please don't bolt if you don't have to and if you do, put in something that will last a long long time. with Nick McPherson, Matheus Waeny, and Bobby Hutton.
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Highline University, Bolting Bible, Book of Slack... all the good stuff is at https://www.hownottohighline.com/
We are testing hang frames pulling bolts in 45 degree angles.
The Crux Monster to be exact in Hilti V3 500 epoxy.
How strong are Crux Monster bolts with Hilti epoxy glue with hang frames?
We have a haul bag to catch our hydraulic cylinder from going whack.
We have a big fat whoopee sling that's a little fuzzy.
Super fuzzy.
And instead of using a ring I put shackles and I had to orientate my pulley so
I'm not just busting rings.
I really do want to find out the strength of the bolt.
Ideally, hopefully our hang frame does not fail.
We are redoing our hang frame first test because our hang frame fell.
I think we're at one or two kilonewtons right now
and what we've learned is that we want to start with it hanging over that much.
Here is our fourth fourth attempt at breaking the first.
The first.
This is how the hang frames are at GGBY.
I was trying to be clever and use a pulley.
Clearly pulleys are bad.
You need to stabilize this to the bolt and separate this.
You can see how that goes.
Not sure how that's going to interact since this is not a ring.
But I don't want to break one of my rings.
Even though I don't technically want to break one of these.
And then I made a little chain link.
Cute little chain link.
I'm going to my soft shackle.
Come on!
Ran out of stroke.
Break the bolt.
This is our second bolt.
And we've padded our hydraulic cylinder a little bit better.
And we're hoping on our first try that we can break this bolt.
This is...
Nope that did not break.
Oh cool.
Okay.
So it came off.
This was on here.
My soft shackle is in good condition.
Yay!
Wow we've learned how to break things.
Wow 45.42.
The weld broke.
The glue is doing great.
It's the five month old expired glue.
Our two by four.
Well this has worked out really nice because we were done with this.
That's just tails.
But our soft shackle looks to be in okay condition.
Which is nice.
I hate breaking them.
You can see how that gets fuzzied up.
Yep it's still okay.
I'd whip on that.
45.26 kilonewtons.
Well this hang frame test was super interesting to us.
Because when we tested these Crux Monster bolts in concrete.
Some of our first tests they were in tension.
And we got 21.5 and 20.4.
Now the weld broke.
And kind of unraveled like you saw in some of the videos.
And it basically shocked us.
Because the MBS on this is 60 and 20 is it's too low for a bolt.
And so we were pretty curious about what would happen if we tested them with a hang frame.
Pulling in 45 degree angles.
Because in concrete in shear we were able to get 59.6 kilonewtons.
82.5 and 66.38.
And that is closer.
That is basically the MBS.
We were getting what we wanted out of it in shear.
But the tension was so much lower.
Never mind testing them backwards or twisted or anything else.
That'll be its own episode.
Because we already as you can see have too many numbers here.
Then we tested this stuff in shear in sandstone.
And we were not getting anywhere close to 80.
We got 50, 57.16 and 52.2 kilonewtons.
And the weld broke in every case.
Which that's kind of what's going to happen.
But the fact that we were not getting 60 was interesting.
And the sandstone I don't feel affected the results.
Because the weld was breaking.
It really didn't have much to do with the rock I believe.
But then we tested in tension in sandstone.
And we did not get 20.
We got 36.52, 42.68 and 41.74 kilonewtons.
And the weld broke each time.
But it was not 20.
And it's super interesting that we got half the results in both samples.
When we tested them in concrete.
It's probably a different batch.
I don't know what's going on with the weld.
But in theory we were curious if the hang frames would reduce
our 50, 60 kilonewton number down to like high 20s or 30s.
But as you can see we got 51.7, 45.42 and 45.26 in our hang frames.
And that is the configuration that we have at GGBY festival.
And if you want to go to that festival you can go to ggbygathering.org
and get tickets for the 2020 festival coming up in November.
But I was wondering if the strength was satisfactory
considering that we have hang frames everywhere in order to keep our high lines at
about chest height to make them easier to work with,
easier for rescues and just more convenient overall.
A fun fact about this is that we did use Hilti 500 V3 glue.
And it was installed the night before and dried a little bit during the next day.
So it was less than 24 hours with glue that I bought online that was five months expired.
And we also did other tests that were two years expired.
And basically it just takes a little bit longer to cure.
In this case the bolt pulled out on test 265.
But at a higher force than the other tests welds broke.
Now obviously I can't say that you can use expired glue because
well that's just nothing but a liability.
I don't understand enough about epoxies to understand why there's an expiration
and what starts to deteriorate over time.
But since this expired glue is a little bit cheaper
we decided to use it and it proved to work in our tests.
So that's all I can say about that.
We're doing lots and lots of tests here at Bolt Busters
because you would be surprised how little we know as a community about bolts.
And the bolting bible is basically a resource trying to
accumulate everything we know about bolts as a community into one place
as a fun theme and we are going to be updating it.
And the final the 2020 version should be out by March 2020.
And we will have a lot of our break tests.
We're 300 deep in so far on the bolting bible.
Now this our goal is to break a thousand bolts.
So we're at test 300 right now.
It's kind of an expensive project.
And so we're also going to test cams nuts and anchors and all sorts of things.
Since we understand hydraulics now.
It's about a $10,000 project and no one sponsors this.
Mostly because I don't want them to.
So I can be as truthful as I can about bolts.
For example I paid for these and broke them.
And now I can say that they're breaking below the MBS what the ****.
And I can also say that I really like them and still continue to use them in many cases.
Because I like the diameter is pretty fat.
Because as a highliner we take our anchor ropes and thread it through them.
Through the bolts and tie our BFKs that way.
And eliminates having to carry quick links and one more point of contact repellent.
I don't know if people like using these in the climbing scenario.
I don't like the fact that it has a weld that could
potentially corrode quicker than the rest of it.
This is 316 stainless.
This should not be used near the ocean especially in limestone.
Where even 316 stainless does not withstand corrosion.
And so we have available titanclimbing.com I believe.
Is where we have titanium climbing bolts.
And those will last a long long time.
Because we do try to promote here at Bolt Busters to not bolt.
That's like the whole point of the bolting bible.
Is to teach you how much you need to know and how much work goes into it.
So we're not turning our public lands into Swiss cheese.
We do really want to promote not bolting.
And if you do bolt please put in something that lasts a long long time.
These will last a long long time in many environments.
Just understand your materials and your rock.
And a lot of other things before you install bolts.
A lot of people are going to trust their lives to.
Speaking of Swiss cheese.
We are selecting the areas we test this very carefully.
They're in the middle of nowhere.
And when we're all done we angle grind everything off.
Fill our holes that come out with glue and dust.
And you can barely tell that we were there.
We are trying to take care of our lands.
And we do believe that by testing all this stuff.
We will see less bolts in the world.
And better bolts to last a long long time.
So we're not re-bolting every 5 or 20 years.
If you can help support this.
Please donate on PayPal a few dollars.
Or go to BrewJuno.com
I started a coffee business with my friends.
And we're trying to make instant coffee.
Tastes really good.
And super convenient.
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We do have some other designs as well.
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Cheers.
Hey thanks for watching.
But don't be an idiot and try highlining.
Without going with somebody.
Who knows what they're doing.
The first time you go out.
We actually have available now.
The Highline University International.
Which is A to Z.
Everything you need to know.
Before you go highlining.
This teaches you how to use a highline.
That's already rigged.
So let's talk about some leash management.
That's the H0 course.
Which is out right now.
And available at hownottohighline.com
It's over 100 videos.
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