9b+ Reference: Uncut Ascent with Commentary

It was august 24th and it was my actual last day in Ceus because on the next day on the 25th i had to drive back home because on the next days there would be the rockmaster competition in Arco in my home so this was the very last day i could try the route during this trip. The day was not the best or maybe it looked worse because it was raining in the morning so we decided to go up anyway just because it was the last day so maybe if it was if it wasn't the last one i wouldn't even go up to the crag because going up to the crag is tiring and going up risking not to climb it's very tiring if you plan to climb some other days but if it's your last day like this one then it was worth a chance. I started this attempt around 3 p.m after a warm-up on a usual 7b plus and a warm-up go on the route. Usually when i do a warm-up go on the route i go until the top to check every move to try to memorize everything and warm up on every move of the route but this day it was the first time that i didn't go up until the top i just did a warm-up go until the boulder of the route the first crags and i stopped just after that. I did this to save some energy i knew it was the last day i want to have 100% of the energy for the attempts on the route i usually have from two to three attempts on the route actually during the previous days i did up to three attempts on the route per day because i always fell on the crags on the first crags and it was not up on the wall it was around 15 meters from the ground. After this rest i was quite fresh i used to rest there around two minutes i didn't count with a chrono or something i just started climbing again when i i felt fresh and it was almost around two minutes rest on a jug and then this section was a hard section before the crags. In the morning it was raining and while i was climbing there was a storm but it was quite far from the crag at the beginning i was worried because dave graham told me that 20 years ago two people died during a storm in ceus but the storm was really far from the crag so actually i wasn't i was focused on the route. I almost catch the two-finger pocket but then i fell and around one hour and a half later i decided to have a second try on the route on the previous attempt a guy filmed me and helped me to film my ascent but then he went climbing so i asked sarah if she could film me while i was trying the route and for the first time she didn't belay me and i asked to sebwin belay for the first time it was not sarah we were trying the route together so we share some belays actually sarah always belayed me and sometimes i belayed seb and sean bailey on their attempts the temperature went a bit down it was a bit cooler than the previous weeks actually during august one week was really really warm so i had to wait around four days and i went training to brianson to wait the perfect condition on the route so this was one of the coldest day and actually even if it was raining and felt a bit humid the condition that day were perfect i never had problems on the first part and i always climbed with easy until the first good jug that is a big rest where i used to rest as i told you before around two minutes during the previous day i already climbed the route from the boulder from the first crux until the top i did this part three or four times so i knew i was ready to try the route from the ground sometimes i tried the route from this rest to the top but i always failed on the first crux but then i decided it was useless to try this part of the route from here to the top and try from the bottom because it changed just a tiny little bit and i was just a little bit more pumped but not too much and it was worth to try the route from the ground and not from the rest this section here is intense i changed the beta here a few times before finding the perfect beta and this for me was the best way to do it in all the attempts i did from the ground i never passed the crux and the best attempts was the previous one when i catch the two finger pocket maybe i did another one where i catch it a little better but i never passed this crux i felt good on the shoulder moves match it way better than the other times catch the two finger pocket and that put the third finger in it and for the first time i stuck the crux but i knew the route was not over it was just the first crux this part here was not super hard but i had to be precise i decided to skip this clip because it was a bit tiring and not very useful and then here there was the rest after the first crux i stayed here for very long around four minutes and during the previous tries when i tried from the crux to the top i never rested so long but now i was more tired so i need a hundred percent to be recovered from here there was this section and then another small rest a bit worse but worth to stay some seconds on it and from here the second crux starts it is a longer section a bit easier than the first crux but i'm way more pumped because it's the last part of the route when i tried the from the first crux to the top i always clipped both this quick throw and the next one but here the game was different i wanted to send the route so i had to skip two quick throws in a row this green one and the orange one i didn't care about the fall i just wanted to go to the top and this was the hardest move of the second crux and matching this i was at 100% at my limit i almost fell here to this undercling then from here was still not over another move from the undercling to a big hold and now the section here was a bit easier until a very good rest finally a quick throw to clip the last one i clipped was like 10 meters ago and then a very good rest where i rested very long because the route now was basically finished there were still one quick throw and then the chain but it was like still 15 meters of climbing so i wanted to rest very well and there was still a long move here where was i mean not possible to fall because i rested a lot but if i was super pumped it was totally possible to fall unfortunately here i'm going behind the rock so it's not possible to see every move but when i was climbing here i knew i would climb the route i climbed this section a lot of times i never did a mistake this was the hardest move but then it was on jugs basically until the chain the total climb was around 18 minutes here it was faster because i speed up a bit the rest and then the final scream arrived and the dream was true