My Big Wall Rack - Cams, Nuts & Hooks

HowNOT2
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Big Wall Bible #5 of 14 - http://www.bigwalls.com
What gear do you need to lead while aid climbing? A whole lot! We'll show you our racks if you show us yours. WHAT do we carry and WHY and HOW.
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00:00 Intro
03:11 Extreme Gear
04:17 Jeremiah's Rack
17:43 Ryan's Rack
36:40 Weighing the gear
How big is your rack?
We're gonna show you a lead rack
if you're gonna go big walling.
Jeremiah's gonna show you his rack,
and then I'll show you mine.
And let's start off with the standard Yosemite hammer.
The classic macro pulley to carry your heavy load.
And if you don't want dangly hooks catching on everything,
you can just take a bunch of handholds
and screw them directly into the wall.
That's pretty good.
That was good.
That was like the seventh take.
But we might not be funny, even though we think we are,
but we can guarantee that watching these 12
how not to big wall videos,
if you've never gone big walling,
will help you a little bit, at least.
We were wrong about being funny.
Maybe we're wrong about that.
But we're two guys with a lot of gear
and love to share what we know.
This is a smaller part of a bigger project
called the Big Wall Bible,
where you guys can also contribute feedback
and we can post in that written material,
kind of like the Bolting Bible.
And we can keep adding to this knowledge,
because once we publish on these 12 videos,
well, that's the send.
That's all you got.
I'm Jeremiah Letourneau.
I'm a math teacher from the Midwest who loves the big wall.
I've done eight successful big walls so far
and still learning a lot and chasing after this.
And he spent like five years prepping for your first big wall.
Yeah, I spent five years training for a big wall
to finally get confident on it,
because all I got was a lot of hate mail
saying don't get on the big stone until you're ready.
So I took the time to really make sure I knew my stuff
before coming out.
And I've had nothing but fun.
And I've had a very different experience.
I lived two and a half hours away from Yosemite
my whole life.
And when I found the big stone, I fell in love with it.
And I kind of threw myself into the deep end.
And I made 28 attempts, 10 of them were failures
and 18 of them were successful.
So I know how not to do this,
but I've also know enough tricks to get up the wall.
And most of that was in the first two videos
when it came to preparation and checking weather.
So make sure you check out those other videos.
Make sure you subscribe to see the rest of this course
as we're releasing it once every week.
And you can always go down into the Big Wall Bible.
Now I'm gonna do my sad plug.
So I'm from Sioux Falls.
Are my plugs sad?
Yeah, sometimes.
Okay, fair.
I'm from Sioux Falls.
We're just a brand new climbing community
that's developing this last year.
We've gotten to the point where we decided
to pick up some stewardship programs,
help develop some crags and take care
of some of our conservation efforts in our area.
So what we have been working on is a climbing coalition
called the Great Plains Climbing Coalition.
And right now we are working on fundraising and grants
and applying for a lot of our startup fees
to be able to start helping out at some of our local crags.
So hopefully I'll have more information
where you guys can maybe check that out
and either sign up for donations
or sign up for memberships when we get to that point.
Yeah, you have rocks out there?
We do, yeah.
And actually they're terrible
and don't come out to the Midwest
because they're awful and horrible
and it's super run out and dangerous.
So don't come out to the Midwest
and we have nothing that you guys can handle.
That's okay, I'll be on now, Capitan.
This is not the hammer you take.
I wanna give a shout out to my patrons
for supporting with $1 per episode to make this possible.
This course took hundreds of hours
and the Big Ol' Bible is an enormous amount of work
to create it to be the resource I want it to be.
And it's better, I think,
for this information to be available for everyone.
And what's great is some people support.
And if you can't or don't want to, that's okay.
That's another benefit of getting it out to more people
because only 1% supporting makes it available for everyone.
So our goal is 1,000 patrons.
And if we're not there yet, please consider supporting us.
And if that's not for you, please hit like and subscribe
because that doesn't cost anything
and it really helps us out.
Now, it feels really weird to live on donations.
All the money from donations goes back into the channel.
But if you're gonna blow a bunch of money on gear,
please do it at ExtremeGear.org.
10% of whatever you buy supports this channel
and the rest of the proceeds goes
to the Cave Exploration Society nonprofit.
So your money's going to great places.
You're gonna spend way too much money on this.
And if you love El Capitan,
you can get this cool shirt at HowNotToSwag.com.
Now let's show you Jeremiah's rack.
I'm gonna take this pitch, Ryan.
I'm gonna talk through what I would wear
on a typical pitch that I'm gonna be leading.
This is just kind of a arbitrary Yosemite reel rack.
Obviously you would add whatever you need
for that special pitch.
But this is what I would typically wear.
I'll just do a little spin really quick
of what that looks like.
But I'm gonna talk pretty much from the bottom
and then work my way up.
So I'm gonna take this thing off because it is heavy.
It's about 25 pounds.
We weighed it earlier.
So let's start at the bottom here.
So at the bottom, what I have is GTXs.
They're pretty much the TX4s.
But these are just high top versions of them
because it's also nice to be when you're in snow
to have a high top.
The nice thing is they're really firm
from the stepping and ladders
so your feet don't get squished.
Most of the time, if it is gonna be primarily
all aid climbing with very little free climbing,
I wear these.
Otherwise I do lead in my TC pros quite often
if I'm gonna have to do a lot of free moves.
Then I go up to my knee pads.
Now these are just classic little knee pads
that just strap with Velcro.
I love these, but they do get hooked a lot underneath it
and there is a downside to these.
But I absolutely love these for when I am belaying
as well as having to haul
and my knees just rub against the wall.
You don't need them,
but they're just one of my creature comforts
and it makes me feel like an aid climber.
Okay, moving up to my harness.
I'm gonna keep the center strap
because I think this is a really important one
to talk about right now.
This is called the Alfifi.
So this is made by Scott Richards.
It is a great revolution to the climbing world.
It is a adjustable strap here that I can just pull in
and it's just a welded hook.
And what this does is this goes and attaches to my gear
and helps pull me in and keep me close to the wall.
And it's cinches and it's auto-release
by hitting a button here and it can be under tension
which is really nice.
Now I did have to modify it where I added a strap here
so then I can actually just clip it back to my harness
to keep it attached to me so it's not dangling.
So that's what this red cord is and that's always on me
and it's very helpful even as a follower.
We'll get to that in the following section.
All right, so I'm gonna start
on the right side of my hip here
and I'm just gonna kind of work around what I have.
So on my harness, I classically keep all of my drawers on me.
Now what I have is I have them in sets of three
and I like to keep them kind of organized
in terms of alpine drawers versus sports drawers.
I do like a little bit of both
and I somewhere have typically between 12 to 18
depending on the climb that I need.
So that's what's there and then I always make sure
to have some double length slings as well.
The way I like to rack my double length slings
is after they're just classic alpine style,
I like to just twist them up and then clip them together
and then they're nice and short.
Less tangles, less opportunities for getting twisted.
So I'm gonna take all those off
but I keep them a little bit on each side of my hip.
How many drawers is that?
10 to 18, 12 to 18.
Right now I have three, six, nine.
There typically is 12, 15, 17.
Yep, and I think that that does me a pretty good job overall.
My hips are now free from my drawers.
I'm gonna just keep on rotating to the right side.
So I have a Yosemite hammer
and I also like a little hammer holder
because I don't necessarily like this thing
dangling below me.
I like to keep kind of organized
and there's less chances for extra tangles there.
So I'm just gonna keep that on my hip there.
My gree-gree is always on my right side, I'm right-handed.
So I have my gree-gree always on me.
My nut tool always on me
because I still use that on leads sometimes
for redoing placements.
And then I bring my quarter light
which is for my anchor building.
So that's kind of my three essentials there that I use.
And then going to the other side of my harness now,
then I keep my ATC.
Typically don't need that until I'm all done climbing
for rappels or anything like that.
But I like to keep it still accessible.
Then I have my lockers and I like to do my bundles
usually in groups of three,
but I always try to carry at least,
I always try to carry at least five lockers with me
because then with the one that's on my quarter light,
that gives me six lockers to be able to do stuff with.
The other thing I carry on me,
which it's kind of a controversial thing,
I guess maybe a little bit,
is I do carry my ascenders on me, even on lead.
There's often times where I just need to be able
to grab onto the rope with something
that I can't do with a grigri
because the ascender can just snap on a tight rope,
a grigri can't.
I might have a micro traction on me,
but this can at least grab the rope when I can't.
So I do keep them on me.
And then there's less chances for us to kind of drop them
as we're trying to hand each other, each set of ascenders.
If you have a hammer,
you should also be bringing a funkness device.
And that funkness device is used
to be able to get things like pitons out
or even a really stuck nut.
Sometimes it can do a good job at getting out.
So you bring that with your hammer.
And then I also do carry my Nelgen.
As we talked in the prepping episode
about getting your bottles ready,
you can see here that I do have it kind of connected
at two points, my noose, and then also the plastic strap.
I don't just trust the plastic strap.
And then I also do make sure
that there's duct tape around my water bottle.
So I always have that accessible,
but I like to carry a Nelgen with me with a locker
and I'll always lock it to myself
so then it doesn't come off.
And then last couple of things that's on my body
is things like my gloves
when I'm having to deal with the rope a lot more.
And then the last thing here is all of my survival stuff.
So this is my self-rescue stuff on the backside.
That's things like a Tiblock.
I also have things like a NanoTrax,
kind of the same idea.
That is definitely unnecessary to have two.
I just like to carry those because they're nice.
And then the last thing is like my knife
because I might need to replace old tat while on lead
to be able to keep my followers safe.
So I always bring that knife with me.
And then the last thing is obviously a chalk bag,
classic climbing move.
I always bring that.
So kind of moving up from my hips,
I go up to my chest here.
A couple things I have is I do like sunglasses
once in a while.
I don't often have them,
but it is nice to be able to,
if you're looking up and you're on lead,
to be able to see if you're climbing the peak sun.
Other things like walkie-talkies I do kind of carry with me.
And then onto my helmet here.
I have my helmet with my headlamp
attached with ChargeFresh batteries.
So that's that.
Let's get to the really good stuff,
the real gear porn that you really want to look at.
All right.
Oh, hi, get it?
Am I a cam guy then?
Oh, I should have an OnlyFans.
So I also bring a set of ladders
and what I would really like are my Yates ladders.
They're nice and long.
And there's a,
I'll kind of show this in the Big Wall Bible
of how you can cinch those together,
but they drop down.
I think this is a six step ladder.
I really like the Yates one,
but big thing I'm really going to recommend
is that you have a spreader bar.
The spreader bar prevents these things from collapsing
as you step higher and higher and higher.
So your feet don't get pinched as bad.
Yes, they're heavier, but like, let's be honest,
you're already carrying a lot of gear anyway.
So let's, let's go back to ounces.
So I like the Yates ladders.
Yep.
So I do too.
I don't like three.
I think that bringing three is unnecessary
and I just have them connected to my daisy
so I don't drop them.
Here's what I have on both sides.
I have a small set of micro nuts.
This includes some of the RPs
and just small nuts just in general.
And then I have like my larger set of nuts.
Now this is a combination of a lot of different brands,
but I would highly recommend making sure
that you do have a set of offsets on your rack here
and maybe a couple of different double sizes
in offsets as well.
But those are my classic passive gear.
On to how I rack the front.
So I keep about an even 50-50 split of my rack,
but on the right side,
maybe I'll just show the right side
because it's pretty much duplicated
on the left side as well,
is I have things like my small C3.
The C3, what we call the ghost cam
because it scares away all the cams
for how terrible and scary placements those are.
I have small things like a black Alien,
the red C4 or X4, I should say.
Another Alien, they're really great
for really kind of small placements.
But truthfully, I don't actually know
what is the big deal difference
between these Aliens and the X4s.
To me, they really-
Aliens are better.
Are they though?
Yeah, in every way.
I would love to hear your guys' comments
on what's the biggest difference
between these current Aliens and these ones.
Then on to my larger cams
and what I think are the more important cams,
really, truthfully, is a set of totems.
So my standard, I really think that everybody should have,
let's say, triple rack.
You have two sets of totems
and you have a set of offset, BD offsets,
whatever you want to do for your offsets.
But totems, the amazing thing is,
besides for the two-lobe placement,
which is just one side of the cam,
is also the fact that the size profile of them
fits really, really well in piton scars as well.
So it's kind of a double whammy
is both they can hold in placements that other cams can't
as well as they can fit into placements
that other cams can't.
Check out the how totems break video
to check out how they wear and tear
because I think that that's a really important aspect
to see how does your gear wear
and when you need to start retiring them.
So I do a double set of totems
and then a set of offset cams.
So there's a black totem,
and then I keep 3.3s on me.
I like 3.3s.
0.4, then I have an offset cam
kind of in between my 0.4 totem and my 0.5 totem
kind of to fit the difference between those two.
Same with a 0.5 totem to a 0.75 totem.
There's my offset BD.
And it's always just kind of fit
in between those, that series.
Now, oftentimes I kind of stop at the red size totem.
You don't find those as beneficial
because there's not as many totem placements
that are worn, sorry,
piton placements that are worn out
where you need to deal with the flare.
So that's where I oftentimes now just go to one totem
and then one BD of that size,
kind of all the way back up.
So then I go to my yellow ones, blue.
Usually a number four and then typically one five
gets you up a lot of routes,
typically not even a five.
So that's kind of what's on the whole right side
and it's pretty much duplicated here
on the left side as well.
So it's on the left side and right side, even split.
Then last thing is with the chest harness,
what's really nice is it has a couple other
top clip-in spots.
So that's where I attach my ladders
to keep them high and out of the way,
as well as things like my cam hooks, my packers,
all of that stuff.
For instance, I keep all of my specific type of gear
on a beaner.
So all my cam hooks are on a beaner,
my packers are on a beaner.
Even though I have a tiny packer,
it's on its own beaner as well.
So everything has its own including copper heads
and rivet hangers, et cetera.
And then if you can try to keep these in a bag
or something because they do like to catch on things,
stay really organized with stuff like this.
The last thing with this chest harness to keep in mind here
is also that it does come with a pack on the back.
And what I keep in there is...
How do you access it?
You would have to take it off.
Oh God.
Well, I take it off anyways to start hauling.
Anyways, kind of get a little lighter.
In this bag is my three-to-one
and two-to-one mechanical advantage pulley system
that I keep ready to go configured
so that I can just pull it out, attach it to it
if I realize that the load is heavier than I want it to be.
This bag eventually goes into my haul bag later on
when my bag gets lighter and lighter
and I no longer need this
because I like to stay to a one-to-one haul system.
So then this goes back in my haul bag
and what goes in that package usually is my wig bag
because the higher you get, the more scared you get.
So it's nice to have an emergency toilet when you need it.
You know you can't really poop when you're scared.
It just comes out.
It's more of I need something to wipe with, really.
All right, so that is everything that's on my rack
and what I typically carry with me when I'm on lead.
So, Ryan, man, my walkie's dead.
It's what happens when you have the X-Talkie.
Hey, look at this.
I have a Rocky Talkie.
Hey, Ryan, off belay.
Thanks for the cheesy Rocky Talkie plug.
Seriously, this is a Big Wall Essential.
They helped sponsor this course, so it's free for you guys.
Oh, stop.
I'm still in such a habit.
You can leave it on like the whole week.
Yeah, it's Rocky Talkie, man.
And they even give you a 10% discount
if you go to rockytalkie.com slash how not to.
These things last for days,
even if you forget to turn them off like I did last night.
And they're super durable and they're very powerful
without needing a license.
And it's very relevant for this part of the video
where we're gonna talk about what I'm going to lead with.
Now, before we start at the bottom and work our way up,
also, I'm gonna share with you the difference.
As you see, I don't have a chest harness.
I like to have everything on my hips.
And what I end up doing is,
because my real estate is very minimal here,
I only have three loops on this side, three on this side,
and one bigger one in the back.
Not my haul loop, but just a gear loop.
I can't just put everything horizontal,
so I have to go vertical.
And so every, let's say, yellow alien's gonna be stacked
on its yellow alien,
but every piece has its own carabiner,
which allows me to have this stack of slings,
which also have their own carabiner.
I use these more than I use drawers.
But let's start down here
where I have the same shoes as Jeremiah,
except I don't have the ankle protection
because I don't care about my ankles
nearly as much as he does.
Same with my knees.
I don't like how the knee pads rub my knees in the back,
so I'd rather have my knees exposed
than deal with that the whole time.
What I have in my pocket here is the topo
for the entire route folded up in a Ziploc bag
in case my leg sweats too much,
a spare battery for my headlamp,
even though this one also has a fresh, fresh battery.
Next is big wall gloves,
which I don't want to wear right now,
but they're nice to have
at least these two fingers accessible,
even if you have these two fingers covered by normal gloves
if you cut your own.
But find gloves you like.
We'll have that in the Big Wall Bible
on the best gloves and people's opinions on them,
and we look forward to your feedback on what you like.
Next, I have Metolius Easy Daisies,
and these are not technically personal anchors,
but they are very nice to aid with.
I'm always clipped into my climbing rope
in one way or another,
so these are super good enough for what I'm doing.
You never want to fall on a static personal anchor.
Anyways, now I have cam hooks permanently on here
because my next pitch is gonna be finger-sized cracks
where I can go a lot faster if I just cam hook my way up,
place a black totem, cam my way up,
blue totem, cam my way up.
Now, I try to avoid pulling these tight each time
because that's just a lot of extra motion.
So what I'll do is I'll climb my aiders,
and then I have my sling and carabiner down here,
which some people have a Fifi hook.
I like the carabiner over a Fifi
because a Fifi, if you have slack in it,
when you go down a little, it could fall off,
you lean back, and it's not there anymore.
This is bomber.
I know I'm connected to whatever I'm connected to
in a bomber way, but if it's not overhanging,
I could top step by having this sling on here,
but if it is overhanging, I can take this carabiner,
and I can clip directly to the piece
and keeps my hips really close,
as we'll show you in the leading section of the video
how that works.
But for now, that's what I have in my personal anchors.
When it comes to ladders,
I made one out of 916 swebbing,
where you just take one side
and make it looser than the other side,
so you have a place to step, tie a knot,
and I do this for the Lost Aerospire,
where I'm only gonna climb two pitches
in order to rig the slack line on it.
However, it's not fun to use, but neither is this one.
This has a dedicated side for each foot,
and I don't always climb straight up normal,
so I like the same aiders as Jeremiah
because I can put either climb up one,
or I can go up both in whatever fashion I want,
and they're so much more comfortable to stand in.
They are a little bit heavier,
and I only take two because I can just sit on my top daisy
and then lift them both up,
and when I'm at an anchor,
I'll clip them at two separate bolts
so they're spread out.
Now, I clip the second foot loop,
and this keeps it tidy enough for me to keep on me
while I am not using them.
So let's start with the gear that's the most fun
since I wanna be a cam boy.
That sounds actually really bad, cam guy.
Wow, I really screwed that joke up.
So all my smaller stuff is gonna be on this side,
all my bigger stuff's gonna be on this side.
So I have my three smallest totems, black, blue, and purple,
and I'm going to be adding more black and blue totems
to my rack, and what I do, as you can see,
is I stack them on each other,
and if I had four of them, I would just do the same thing.
I would go like this, but all the same size.
Now, you take the top one off and you take it off wrong,
off your harness, you're gonna drop them all.
So I do gates out, and my black one's gonna be separate,
and I always make sure that I find the last one
and I can pull it off, and if I have two hands,
I'll even keep my other hand on it,
and I just make sure it's on very well.
The problem is, if you grab and you're not paying attention,
like this, and you, I'm trying to screw this up,
you can lose the cam.
So you gotta be mindful to grab the lowest piece
that you are clipping in a line.
So next, on this side, I have my offset aliens,
and you can see an offset alien is where the sling
is a different color than the thumb loop.
That means two of the lobes are gonna be smaller
than the other lobes.
Piton scars started as thin cracks,
and they got wider and wider and wider in this oval shape,
and the back of the hole is smaller
than the front of the hole,
so you put the smaller lobes in the back,
and actually, with the flexibility of these,
the soft metal of an alien and the different lobe sizes,
they fit really, really well in piton scars.
I go from black-blue all the way up to the yellow-red,
and they're all stacked here, and I have two of each.
The next thing I have on my harness
is the micro nuts.
I have two sets of offset micro nuts,
and that's, depending on the route I'm doing,
all I typically take on any route.
Now, if I'm gonna go do some A3 plus A4 stuff,
I'm going to want to take more than this,
because if you have a really thin seam for a long ways,
this is not gonna be enough.
Now, I'm a little different in the fact
that this is the only set of nuts that I take,
DMM offset nuts, and I almost never use them.
I can go up an entire wall without using nuts,
because I love my cams.
Never use them, I've tried climbing either, yeah.
Even though, in our brake tests,
they actually proved to be stronger most of the time.
Next in the back of my three gear loops are free beaners,
but on my free beaners, I have rivet hangers,
so if there's a bolt without something to clip to it,
you clip a wire over the top of it,
or this removable hanger,
and that is not something I need all the time,
but if it is, it would already be on my daisy,
and I'd have two or three of each
in case I need to leave one, I still have them,
if I know I have a rivet hanger ladder that I gotta climb.
It is all dependent on looking at the topo.
Next on most routes, I'll just take a grapple hook
and a talon hook in case there's a little lip
that gets me a little higher, or I just can move faster.
I love hooks when I can get a solid placement.
These can catch on things,
but by having just the harness
and not a separate part of my body
that has to extend up like a chest harness,
then this doesn't get snagged nearly as much
using my setup.
The problem I find with the chest harness
is all the gear is hanging over my other gear,
and it kind of gets hard to access different stuff.
The last thing on my three gear loops on this side
is a set of lockers.
Now, I already have my quad anchor and lockers
already ready for the anchor in my back.
I don't need these technically for anything,
but you never know,
and I like having two or three of them with me.
Notice I did not use this third loop.
It's my junk drawer.
This is where I'll clip my ladder
or a piece I know I'm about to use.
I'm off-center now, because I'm heavy on one side.
This side is almost a mirror of the other side,
except I have my big stuff here.
So we'll just start in the front
where I have my normal aliens,
where the sling and the thumb loop are the same color,
and I have two of each, because I love them.
Then I start my rack with a number one.
If I need a .75 or .5, I have those guys back here,
and I love my totems.
I love them so much
that they almost match the exact same size
as a red number one Camelot or C4s.
Wow, I'm dating myself.
So I have three of these guys,
and I have three of all of these
because I wanna show you how nice
the vertical stacking can be.
Number twos, I grab the bottom number two,
and I have access to it, and I can even put it back.
And I have, and I have two number threes.
And what's nice is I know how many number threes
I have left if I were to take one off.
If I have some number threes here
and some number threes back here,
I'm gonna have a harder time keeping track of it.
And just to flex how many number fours I have,
I have three number fours behind that.
How do you clip to all your gear, you ask?
Well, my draws are on this side.
I have double-length slings here,
and I use them for a lot of stuff if I start traversing.
Otherwise, I might just clip directly to the cam
because it has its own carabiner.
Do you clip to the, if you're going straight up,
it's pretty easy.
Now, this, I stick my finger in,
and it's a shoulder length.
And if I just clip one strand, it is a double length.
And you'll notice I am okay with leaving this loop here,
even though it reduces the strength a little bit.
I don't care.
Whatever I'm clipping to, it's gonna come out first.
Be careful to not do this and clip the middle of that,
because if you unclip this,
your carabiner is going to fall.
So be mindful that you need to make this into a loop.
Where'd it go?
Before clipping your other carabiner.
And then how I like to twist it
is I twist both hands at the same time
in order to get this nice and tight.
And I clip it on the spine side, and it keeps it tidy.
Now, I only had three of those
because my route's not gonna zigzag a lot.
Otherwise, I'll have two stacks of four
on either side of me.
Same with the quick draws.
I have one quick draw as a Jesus piece
that you put on the bolt before you leave the anchor
so you don't pull the layer down,
but that the rope can go up a little bit
before catching you.
And then maybe the next bomber piece
before I start running stuff out.
So I don't use a lot of quick draws
because once I start getting higher and higher,
I kinda just wanna start using these guys.
I also have more free beaners with rivet hangers.
And a little trick I do have is when I lean over,
my back sling, sometimes I'll just clip spare beaners.
I always know I'll have some extra beaners
on these slings that are furthest in the back,
and I like that.
Wanna take a look at my rear?
So what I have here is a ascender, just one.
I'm gonna use this to haul, to grab the line,
and pull through my, wait for it, protraction.
I am a one-to-one hauler.
I don't care what it takes to do one-to-one,
and we'll show you all the different ways of doing that.
I will almost never do a three-to-one
because it takes more than three times as much hauling
in order to get that bag up.
So I clip this to the highest bolt,
clip this to the strand, and I just start pumping.
We'll cover that in the other videos,
so make sure you subscribe so you see when that comes out.
Pro tip, an aluminum quick link in this little hole
that's completely useless is great
if you wanna just clip your ladder to that
and your personal anchor to this and have them separated.
Now, like I said before,
I have my anchor already put together.
The quad anchor is already tied,
and if you wanna see a quad anchor break test,
it's actually pretty neat.
You can use the shelves, you can use the redundant points.
Anyways, four lockers, right?
Two for where I'm gonna connect it
and two for how I would connect Jeremiah
before he starts coming up to my anchor.
So this is all ready to go because I know I need it.
Just like you need some swag from hownottoswag.com,
which is another great reason
I don't have a chest harness covering it.
Oh, I like to be able to have the ability
to come down, belay, or rescue or anything.
A Grigri is super nice.
I don't need an ATC.
I would just not block and use this or whatever
if I had a two-stranded.
So Grigri is amazing,
and that's why I only take one ascender
because I can ascender in Grigri.
Worst case scenario, if I have to ascend something.
And I have my water in the back,
and this is just like Jeremiah's because that is his.
Now, here is my emergency kit.
Duct tape on a string, pretty good.
I actually like the duct tape on the water bottle
because it's kind of hard to unroll,
and this is more accessible.
I always have that with me.
The next thing is I have a VT Prusik
because I can do a lot with it.
I can even go down a strand
that's already tensioned up or down it.
And then I have my knife.
And so this just goes in the back.
I always have it with me.
I don't feel like I need two ascenders, a Grigri,
a micro traction, mini traction,
and a three-to-one backup system.
Jeremiah's gonna show you all of his systems
when we get into hauling and why he does that.
And it's really great that we don't agree.
And it's really great if you don't, respectfully.
And you could actually do what we're doing right now,
and we will post it on the How Not to Big Wall Bible.
We'll put it on our How Not to Clips channel,
and then we can link to that video,
and we can get a lot of people's what's on your rack.
Let me talk to you about my tail.
This is a two-millimeter cord
that if a haul bag becomes undocked off the wall
and starts to fall while I'm on lead,
in theory, this should break before I do.
This actually killed somebody.
And the bag came off.
They were attached with a 10-mil rope,
attached to a bomber haul loop.
And I think it broke their back.
So I find I'd rather have that thing break and fail
instead of me trying to hold it up.
This is not gonna, this has never failed on me.
Yours, you have to do the same thing, yeah.
It's always good to carry a couple extra pounds with you
so you can burn them off while you're up there.
No, I have some beaks and hooks in this bag.
This bag is loosely connected, or not loosely.
I mean, it's just connected,
but it's not connected to my gear, which is super cool.
Beaks are just notorious for catching on everything,
and it really, really sucks.
I have some copperheads.
I can even put my other hooks in here.
This was kind of a little hack
that we kind of did on our last wall.
And because I'm only going to use this
for part of my climb, it's on a separate sling.
Now, you never want to put that sling on top of these.
You wanna either take these off
or go like this and get it over it.
You don't wanna put a jacket on
while these are over your shoulder.
You wanna make sure the jacket's on,
and then you put this back on,
or you're not gonna get them off.
And so this other side is my hammer,
and you can make this thing as long as you want
because it just goes in a hole.
It's very simple with a screw that screws into the webbing.
For me, this is a little too short.
It would catch on my foot,
so I adjusted mine to hang about that much lower
than my foot.
But I can pull it up just as easy,
and you actually don't use this very often on a wall.
So if you're watching this and you're new,
unless you're gonna jump on A3s your first wall,
you're probably not gonna be using this for a while.
Hammers make the piton scars worse,
and if people aren't using hammers, don't use hammers.
Yeah, good time to bring that up.
If I had a sling for every person
who says they hate doing it this way,
I'd have more slings.
You have to find the one that's on the outside.
So in this case, it would be that guy.
It doesn't take me that long to figure it out.
I'm used to it, and I like having my carabiner on the end.
I clip my piece, clip my rope, and they're versatile.
I can use them as anchor material.
I can use them as whatever.
I can use the lasso.
But you can see, because in my context, in my viewpoint,
in the way I do things, why this ends up being like here.
I don't want these doubled up or draws.
I don't have space for a lot of draws.
So they work really good right here for me.
If you're not paying attention and you just grab one,
it's gonna really suck, and you're gonna hate it,
and you're gonna think that I was wrong,
and you're gonna be cursing my name
because you don't know if you're not doing it right.
Just, gosh, that does suck.
Grab the beaner.
There we go.
Nothing else is around it.
Voila!
Helmet.
Rocks fall, things fall, people fall.
Or you could do a flipper whipper
and smash your head against the wall.
Bring a helmet.
My headlamp is on my helmet because I gonna,
because that's a good idea.
If I had a headlamp for every epic I've had,
I'd have more headlamps than I need.
But a lot of my epics came from not having light.
And once I started caving and they take light very serious,
you're like, oh, if I just take it a little bit more serious,
maybe I won't have so many epics.
So I have a really good headlamp.
Stays on my helmet all the time.
I even have a spare battery in my pocket,
even though this is a fresh battery.
Had one of our friends run out of light
in the middle of a lead,
and it took him three hours to finish by Braille.
So I also have another spare headlamp
for redundancy in my personal bag.
And so at night, if I decide to take this off,
which I choose to sleep without a helmet
because my face is facing up.
So it's your time to go.
Then I have a headlamp for that as well.
Let's find out how heavy this is.
Cause I've always been curious how much weight
is actually on me, including my harness.
And that is 36 and a half pounds.
That is what you're loading up.
Wow, is that so heavy when you actually.
So I'm at 36 and a half pounds
for everything you just saw me show you.
I always thought it was more.
It feels like a lot more than 30 hanging here.
And it's crazy how low it hangs.
Let's find out what racks you guys have
and how much they weigh.
And we can add those to the Big Wall Bible.
Just check out how to submit that stuff
in the Big Wall Bible itself.
You ever find yourself with a beer
and you don't have a bottle opener,
but you do have a number five with you.
Cause you know, I always carry a number five with me.
Yeah, it's a great bottle opener.
