How To Choose A Suit Jacket Lining For Made To Measure Suits

Listen, there are a lot of decisions you have to make when you're getting a custom suit and the sheer number of choices you have over every single detail can be completely overwhelming. One of the things that I found to be most difficult to decide on over the years has been how to choose a lining for a jacket. So in this video, I'm gonna take you through the five different options you have and why you might choose one over the other to help you make not only the best decision for you, but one that you will not regret. I'm Brian Sacawa and you're watching He Spoke Style where we give you the information and inspiration you need to dress well, have more confidence, and unlock your potential. Now, before we get into the five options you have when it comes to suit jacket linings, let's first go over the five purposes of a lining. Number one, lining your suit jacket or sport coat adds weight and structure to the garment. Two, it makes it warmer, which helps make it more comfortable in cooler weather. Three, if you have a lining in your jacket, it's gonna sit better on your body, which could help reduce the possibility of the fabric bunching up. Four, a lining is gonna hide the inner construction of the jacket. And you could argue that actually seeing how the jacket is assembled and stitched together is kind of cool, but if you want a very clean look, a lining will help with that. And finally, a lining can help make the jacket easier to put on. So if you've ever had a basted fitting where it's just the unlined fabric on your body, you know how it can kind of pull on your shirt and be a bit difficult to actually get down your arm or around your body when you're putting it on. So if you have that lining, which is typically made with a breathable, light, durable, and silky feeling material called Bemberg, that's what helps get the jacket on smoothly and easily. Now the biggest choice you are going to have to make before deciding on which lining you wanna get is to figure out what the intent is. Do you want something that's versatile or are you looking for something with a little more personality? That is a decision that is completely up to you, but as I take you through each of the five options, I think you'll start to zero in and get a feel for what makes sense and what is most comfortable for you. The first and most simple option is what's called tone on tone. This is where the lining of the jacket is pretty much the exact same color as the jacket itself. It's an extremely versatile option. It doesn't call attention to itself. It's a very easy choice to make. So if you're someone who's looking for something that's timeless, subtle, and under the radar, I think this is a great choice for you and it's actually how I style the majority of my suit jackets and sport coats. Now tone on tone doesn't have to be so plain and there are ways that you can do tone on tone, but still have a little more subtlety and interest. If you take a look at the lining of my hopsack suit here, you can see that there's a very subtle paisley print. So if you want that classic look with a little something special, this is something I would definitely consider. Your next option is to use a contrasting or complementary color. This is going to be a little bit bolder. It will stand out a little bit more, but it doesn't necessarily have to be completely ostentatious or flamboyant. This is a good choice if you want something in that classic realm, but with a little more personality. And also if you have, let's say, something like a glen plaid with a thin line of color running through it, that could be a really good color to pull out with your choice of lining. To figure out which contrasting or complementary color combinations you like best, you can go online and find these color wheel generators where you're able to pick your primary color, which in this instance would be your suit fabric color, and then generate other colors that pair well and harmoniously with that color. I also really recommend this small Japanese book called A Dictionary of Color Combinations. It's got tons of different color palettes and is just a really great source of inspiration for finding colors that work together. And I'll link to both the website and the book down below in the description. Your third option is what I'm going to call a non-statement pattern. Typically on the subtle side, classic patterns like herringbone, stripes, checks, or polka dots, for example. These are great choices for that timeless look and style with a little bit of, I guess you'd say, classic menswear flair. The thing that's difficult to kind of envision when you're considering a pattern like this is that when you're just looking at that little fabric swatch, it can seem really bold. But when you actually see it fully lining the jacket, oftentimes you don't even see the pattern itself. From a distance, it just looks like a nice texture or a bit of contrast. It really is one of the most difficult things to imagine. So it can be beneficial to see a couple of options like this in person to get a sense of how it will look on the finished garment. Option number four is a statement pattern. We're talking big, bold, and eye-catching. So like a big gingham check, a bold plaid, damask, tropical motif, even a larger picture. If you're someone who's really outgoing, big personality, likes to be unique, and show off that personality through your clothing, this is a great option for you. But even if you're not that kind of person, I still think it's something to at least consider. Take me, for example. I like very simple pieces with classic styling, typically choosing tone on tone, but there are a couple of garments that I have with a more statement lining. Take this tweed sport coat. The lining I chose for this is a very bold paisley, bold in terms of size, but it works with this particular jacket because it is such a singular and unique piece. So choosing a lining that kind of complimented that uniqueness was an obvious choice for me. And it's nice to have one or two pieces that really do have that little something special. Option number five is to go full custom. This is where you can get whatever you want on your lining. Some companies, like Michael Andrews, for example, allow you to upload your own image, which is then imprinted on the lining, making for an extremely unique piece. If you wanna have something custom and personal and special and truly unique in that way, you really can't do any better than a fully custom lining. Now, choosing a lining is just one of the many, many decisions you're gonna have to make when you are buying a custom suit. And the bad news is that none of them get any easier. Over the years, through the many custom suit experiences I've had, I've really dialed in what I like and have figured out how to guide people going through that process. And I've rounded up those tips for you in that playlist right over there. So if you're ready to jump into a custom suit and have questions about how to make the right decisions, I think you'll find many of the answers you're looking for by clicking there.