Brazil climbing bolts tested - Grampo P

Hey Brazil, we're going to break some grandpa's peas today. Stay tuned. Hi I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to a Bolt Buster episode where we're going to test a popular bolt found in Brazil called the Grandpa Peas and I have additional information about them since filming these break tests and it has nothing to do with the fact that I have or have not lost about seven clips of the footage from when we filmed. It's pretty hard to keep track of all that footage when you film eight episodes in two days. Anyways, it worked out because I got all this great information. Now, Robe Luis donated them but I cannot seem to find our original conversation because I have like 17 different ways messages come through and I can't find the original conversation but that's okay. Bobby did research before we tested them and found out you put them in basically backwards and Rodrigo Mota emailed me and asked me if we would test Grandpa Peas and I was like oh we already did and he actually knew a lot about them. He showed me this clip which was interesting. If the quickdraw gets lifted up it could technically unclip the carabiner which is terrifying but you don't want to trust the welds because they're usually not done by professionals and so you want to pull on the stud and not the actual pea part of the pea. Now this is a 12 millimeter rod of metal and so if you drill a 12 millimeter hole we found it's impossible to get it all the way in and Rodrigo also said that sometimes if you can't get them all the way in but they are within a finger of touching the rock that they're super good enough and you can even kind of cheat and put your sling behind it in case you just quite can't reach for whatever reason but we found in order to get them all the way in you can't use a half inch or 12.7 millimeter drill bit or they just go in and out and there's no tension on the bolt inside the rock so you have to take a 12 millimeter and wallow it out and the next clips of us installing this will make a lot more sense. Now these are not stainless steel but Rodrigo said that corrosion related accidents are super super super rare. They are mostly the welds failing or the fact that the it's all terrifying so we ended up testing some that are super super tight we couldn't get them all the way in and then we put one in which is the start of basically this video is where it just slips right in and you could just pull it right out we tested that and then we actually did it right to where the bottom half is really tight around the rod of metal and then the top half is a little loose and that way we can get all the way in. We also tested them in tension and before we get to that you guys want to see the status of this drop tower I keep talking about. So right outside of the lab here we have four footings ready to go with some poor man rebar that is a 36 inch hole and the line is where the concrete will be which is four inches below this concrete so if we ever decide to not do this anymore I don't have to jackhammer out these giant pillars of concrete and then we just put a slab of concrete over this and give Larry back his property but we're gonna make it go out that way and we're gonna cover all this with possibly some tire chunks uh that ground up stuff that's on playgrounds and I backfilled it a little bit the concrete truck's gonna come and back up tomorrow morning and uh we're gonna fill all these up the whole thing's painted and over there and I've been working on this all week as far as our improvement on load cells we have this omega load cell here attached to our lab jack that Marcus Bird put together and uh it goes to the computer so we can get some better stuff right now we're only at 200 hertz that's our with our software which Yetza has helped us put together this has been a collaboration of a lot of help lab jack's been very generous to us as well we also have the line scale 3 coming out which is 1280 hertz speed right now is the goal because the drop tower is gonna have a very fast peak force and we're trying to capture that and then we also have a third tridundancy system and that is load star sensors and that'll be a 10,000 hertz 20,000 pound and a 0.01 or 0.02 percent accuracy certified so that'll be our basically our fanciest one but that's an off the shelf out the door don't have to try anything fancy um you know practically you literally have to be an engineer to use lab jacks but uh yeah I'm really excited how that's coming together this is coming together and a surprise no one knows about I also have coming I can't tell you where you would know about it but anyways we might not release these all in the right order so you might actually see other videos where we're just now painting the drop tower or whatever but anyways I don't release these in order sorry it's just how goes and I'm heading off to Sweden uh Saturday in two days for a 2.1 kilometer so I may have already done that project by the time you see this I might release this this Saturday who knows you want to go see some grampos so I had already drilled 12 millimeter holes uh that did not go in nearly as well as I was hoping so we're going to or at all we're going to size up to half inch so my finger is the depth of the hole my middle finger here gotcha is how deep the hole is so that's how deep the hole is gotcha so the whole thing's going to be in a half inch yeah all right do they use half inch drill all right so yeah that is a half inch hole okay we're still going to test that on this are you wallowing over there a little bit um so we wallowed the hole out to uh give us a little advantage getting it started bottom of the hole is still 12 millimeter all right go for it so oh some resistance yeah that's good yeah I like it that's in there 16 20 25 25 oh it's peeling at the bottom there oh yeah awesome field goal 28.02 and that is interesting how it looks rusty inside of that weld it looks so shiny on the outside if you've ever used a grampos put that in the comments below because I've never seen these in my life this is not confidence inspiring for long-term use welcome to tomorrow we are now flipped the hydraulic facing the other way and we are pulling the grampos in tension not sponsored by bonier but if you live in brazil they make better bolts than this stuff just saying so what size hole is this bobby so this is a 12 millimeter hole and I kind of wallowed the edge which we found worked for one of those bolts over there the only one that went all the way in all right go for it sounds like a p-ton yeah it does come on bobby so just like our first test in sheer we are going to test it with it halfway out come on bobby oh no it's bending let me try am i stronger than bobby absolutely not yeah it's in further than the other one i'm gonna drill the next hole man if there were only instructions on the internet on how to install these this is a half inch drill bit they're all installed tightly this much let's find out wow it looks like a monkey's butt ah pulled out but albeit a high force yeah i'm pretty surprised that that weld held yeah yeah because that weld's not really designed to hold anything it's the carabiners supposed to be clipped like this and be pulled down keep an eye on the slow oh that weld was not good see is that a rusty one no there's no rust in it that's not that high very different result all right well that has a rust colored area inside of that and that does not and they didn't pull out at all with a very impressive result wow well i am impressed for something that has nothing holding it in there other than just sheer brute force it makes me feel better about pitons but i like to have my bolts either have a cone and a wedge at the bottom or some glue holding it in there but uh there's a chance if you've climbed in brazil you've climbed on these if you are from brazil please leave a comment below that you are so we know how many people from there are stoked on these videos if you are from brazil and you need to buy some bolts you can go to bonier because they actually sell stuff that's standardized and doesn't have such a variable in the results of their welds uh this is a very clever bolt it's awesome that they were donated and that we got to test them because we do want to test every bolt in every configuration you possibly can here at bolt busters we are almost at 400 bolt brake tests i do want to go to a thousand just because that's a big number and for no other reason but we have learned so much and it's all in the bolting bible and all of our tests instead of going to the bolt buster chart in slackline.com which is really awful to read uh it's going to be in the book of numbers so in 20 minutes if you glance at all this stuff you can learn everything we learned over several years if you made it to the end of this video congratulations you just earned yourself a free subscription to this channel click subscribe to redeem your prize and that like button if you appreciate the work we go through to test stuff that's really pointless anyways i appreciate you guys love you guys see you bye