We spent a ton of time developing this to perfection here at our shop, so we decided to offer it to you guys, too: The FFG Cantilever Bed Floor Raise Kit is a very simple and universal kit that allows you to raise your truck bed floor, (as the name suggests..) It features 6 inch actuators and a bell crank to extend the life of the actuators by removing the load factor when raising the bed in a classic Ford or Chevy truck. These are custom billet aluminum machined parts, and comes with all the hardware you'll need to set it up. Check it out now on our site using the link below. Make sure to follow us on Instagram or Facebook to see the behind-the-scenes on our builds and projects, and subscribe to our channel and hit the little bell icon so you don't miss a video. Thanks for watching.
Check out our site for hundreds of quality and custom products for classic trucks. Ford, Chevy, GMC, you name it. www.fatfender.com Feel free to shoot us an email if you have any questions at [email protected].
Out here, I'm known as a guy that's good at wood.
I'm gonna teach you how to get it up.
All right, hey guys, Jason with Fat Fender Garage,
and we are here today, we're cracking a few jokes,
but we're gonna take it a little more seriously now.
But we wanna introduce and kinda talk to you about a product
so a lot of times when we're doing a bed floor,
a lot of customers, especially if you have a bag truck
and you got a lot of stuff underneath it,
they wanna have like the floor open up,
kinda open sesame, this little esophagus down in there.
And so when you wanna learn how to get your wood bed up,
there's a process to make that happen.
They want me to say how to get your wood up, but anyways.
So how to get your wood bed floor up,
and we're gonna show you how to do that.
Hit it, Charlie.
All right, so one of the tricks we've had with this
is actually over the years,
we've done a few different scenarios.
And that was how to actually get this to work
smoothly, efficiently, not a lot of weight
on your actuators.
Matter of fact, these are only six inch actuators
that we're using.
And so real compact, and yet at the same time,
you can see that it's pushing it up quite a ways.
So the struggle you have is the further back
that you go with your actuator and pivot point,
the more weight is going to be cantilevering out
that you're gonna have to actually support.
And so then the question becomes is how much weight
can an actuator hold?
And so you can spend a lot of money
on really, really expensive actuators.
They're not cheap to begin with.
But trying to find that harmony and balance
with the process of building a cool truck and have it work.
We also like to use Dakota Digital.
They have a dual actuator linear controller
that actually will control both of them the same
and in sync.
And then we'll have three different positions
that you can have it stop at.
So one could be down,
and then two may be different up positions.
So it makes it a little bit easier to fuel up
your gas tank when you got all this stuff there.
You don't have to have all that stuff
cut through your bed to access it.
But what we've done though is as we were thinking
of a way to put these together,
I started doing a little research
on how can we take some weight off the actuator.
And so what we decided to do is we came up
with this variation.
It works for us.
You guys might have another variation that works for you.
But this is what we decided to do.
And that is what we took is created like a bell crank.
And that the actuator pushes down.
It kind of has an asymmetrical pivot point.
And so as it's kind of that lopsided pivot point,
we then can put an arm on it that can help push it up.
So you can kind of take a look right here.
We've got an arm here that we seracoded black.
Down here, we've got this bell crank.
So it's kind of an A shape,
kind of a asymmetrical A shaped.
And we've got two pivot points,
the actuator pivot point here,
and then where it mounts onto the bed.
And so it goes up and down.
If I use just a regular actuator,
it's actually slower going up and down.
But because of the rotation of the bell crank,
it actually moves it a little bit faster.
So it can handle a lot more weight.
And so we have a couple of different arms that we sell.
It just depends on where you have to fit that in your bed.
If you need a little bit longer arm or shorter arm,
we have a couple of variations.
But let's show you what it looks like.
Charlie, come over here and he's gonna help us
discuss this a little bit.
Charlie's the professional here.
He's installed this, what, four or five times.
And we'll kind of just give a little bit
of a brief explanation.
So this is a kit that you can purchase.
It all comes together.
You're gonna get two actuators.
You'll choose which length of arm you'll want.
You're gonna get the part that mounts to the bed,
the little bell crank.
That's spacious, doesn't it?
Yeah.
And then we've got some parts that you're gonna weld on
to the actual metal to help.
So Charlie, give us a little explanation
and your thought process.
So when you're starting to set this up,
obviously we redid some instructions
so that way they're a lot more helpful to install.
What you're saying is we made instructions.
Yeah.
Okay.
Yes, yeah.
So anyways, these are the parts
that you'll weld up into your bed.
So that way you can bolt everything on in place
to get your first piece put in there.
As you're doing that,
you're also gonna wanna figure out the location
of your actuator in conjunction with this.
So as you're putting it all together,
well, looking over there is a little easier, but.
What do you got going on here, Charlie?
Hold on.
All right.
So, all right, so we're gonna help Charlie.
So down here is what we're talking about, right, Charlie?
And then we're talking about this piece.
Yep, you're right up here.
Going right here, right?
And so this pivot point is pushing
with the actuator like this, right?
So in the kit, you'll have hardware, obviously,
to go with all this.
Everything runs on bearings.
So that way it's a smooth transition up and down.
And what you'll find is as you put this together,
welding these beds in place,
they will move a little bit.
So you'll have different bushings that will come in the kit
and you'll have to trim those.
You might have one side that's maybe a quarter inch wider
than the other side to bolt all this together
to get it run through.
Like bushings in here?
Yeah, bushings in here and in here,
because you may need to move this back and forth
to get everything to run true.
The other cool thing about this is the bed going up and down
can come crooked, come up crooked, go down crooked,
and you can adjust it here.
And also you'll have little heim joints in there.
So left hand and right hand threads,
so you don't have to take it apart each time.
You can just screw this up and down
and get your bed to move up and down.
So getting that adjusted.
Yep, your adjustability.
You have a lot of ways to adjust it.
When I put them together,
I put everything together completely closed
before I have any weight on it.
I run it up and down a couple of times.
That way I can reach in there and adjust these
as I set it down.
If one side's tipped up more than the other side,
I can close it exactly how I want.
And when you're done, it shuts perfectly.
So what happens is as you're welding your frames up
and building your doors and everything,
you hope that it's gonna lay perfectly in there.
But oftentimes when you're welding things together,
there's enough heat
that it might be slightly distorted a little bit.
So as you're dialing all that in,
this gives you the adjustment you need
to kinda make sure that everything's pulling down
equally and evenly at the same time.
Yeah, and your bars that run down,
they'll walk a little bit on you too.
That's why the little bushings that come in the kit,
you just trim them to fit how you need them to.
And you wanna make sure that once all that's together,
that your lock nuts that come in the kit
have plenty of bolt coming through them
so that way nothing can come loose.
So this is a Dakota Digital
dual linear actuator controller.
And this will just mount in the dash.
And on these trucks,
we'll just mount it actually in the gauge bezel
right in there.
So if you gotta get gas, you put it in park,
you'll hit one of the buttons,
it raises it up like just two feet,
just enough to get your hose in there and fill it up.
And when you get back in the truck,
you hit the other button and it closes it.
And so it doesn't overclose it
and keep trying to pull it down.
You can actually set it to stop it right
where it needs to be.
Obviously, we put like a little rubber bumpers
and different things in few areas
just so that when it hits,
it hits a little padded bumper
and you can do that as well.
You're gonna get all the
wiring harness, plugins and everything.
These go to the actuators
and it's really quite simple.
You've got a little brain right here that connects it.
This is the usual Dakota Digital module.
So pretty nice kit, very simple.
We've put a lot of time into this designing it.
These are all custom aluminum machine parts.
And again, we've got a bunch of bearings
and stuff that go with it,
but there's actually quite a bit of hardware
that goes with it.
There's a lot of hardware.
So we didn't put it all out here
because we'd have a whole table full.
So we do give you an exploded view,
some instructions, some guidelines.
Again, this is a kit that works,
but every truck is slightly different.
And so you're gonna need to be able to adjust it.
Sometimes you might have to move this
in a different spot to weld it.
These are the pieces that will help mount
to the hind joint that go onto the bed
that helped push the bed door up.
And so you'll have that part there.
You can weld them on and then you can paint it.
You can do whatever you want to do.
And you can kind of see how those are welded on.
We just build a little tab to weld those on
so they are where they need to be.
If I had one tip just through trial and error,
lots of times we'll put these on
thinking everything's great
and not take into account how we're gonna run our exhaust
or that these might come up and hit your chassis
with a huge C-notch in it like these airbag trucks.
So you really have to watch where you're putting this.
You might have to set it outside of your frame,
inside of your frame.
You wanna make sure you have clearance
for this thing to rotate back and forth.
And when this is in the down position, Charlie, right,
this is almost like.
Parallel, yeah.
It's vertical down.
Yeah.
Right, so you're starting in this position
and then it's rotating up.
Yeah.
To get it up.
And these kits kind of act like a garage door.
If they get much of a load, they'll stop.
So they won't just come down
and strip all the gears out of your actuators.
They'll actually stop for you so that way.
So if it's getting in a bind as it's coming down
and it keeps stopping on you,
you wanna check and see,
make sure both your sides are running evenly
because if not, it'll bind up and it'll cut out on you.
I'll see a lot of people, they'll take the actuator,
they'll stick it in there and we've done it, right?
And we've had to replace several
until you kind of get a good amount of luck
and then it works.
But, and there's really not anything wrong with that.
It's just oftentimes,
it can be a little bit of extra weight
because it'll say it'll push up 250 pounds, right?
And you're like, well, I got two of them.
What happens is it's,
the weight is distributed so differently
because it's pivot point is trying to pivot and push
from such a far back position
that it's actually the counterbalance of it
is just much heavier than it seems to be
when you're putting these together.
So since we started putting a little bell crank in there
and designing it this way,
we haven't had one actuator that I know of fault on us.
And so, especially if you're,
know anything about Dakota Digital,
everything takes a long time to get.
And so it could really suck if you lose an actuator
and you need another one
and you got to wait six months to get it.
Especially if that's how you're gonna put gas in your truck.
Especially if you're gonna put gas in it.
So anyways, I hope that's helpful for you.
Charlie, thanks for helping us explain it.
It's-
You want me to run this down?
Yeah, let's put it down.
We'll run it down and just kind of show you how it goes down
but it's pretty straightforward.
Push the button.
That's it.
It's all done.
Show them the little button inside.
You can barely see it right through there.
Okay, thanks guys.
Hopefully you can go to our website
and you'll see we have some in stock.
I know we have a few kits in stock.
This is kind of like, we've got like,
I don't know, we got five or 10 sets we had made.
Yeah, we have a bunch back there.
Yeah, and so we got a lot of hardware for it.
And so you'll just be able to go on the site, purchase it.
Again, you know, you can kind of look at the instructions
a little bit when you get it.
You have questions, you definitely can call.
We'll try to walk you through it
and give you a hand getting installed.
But if you're mechanical
and you understand this kind of stuff,
you should be able to figure it out.
So be sure to go check out the website
and look through all the little parts and pieces
that we have for doing any kind of a swap or truck build.
We're constantly adding more and more stuff all the time.
Definitely like and subscribe to us and follow along.
And with that, happy hot rodding.