Carabiners Loaded Sideways!?!?

What happens if a carabiner is partially over an edge and it's levering the carabiner? We kind of modified the SlackSnap machine today so we can pull on carabiners the way they're not designed to be pulled. Stay tuned. Hi, I'm Ryan Jinks and welcome to our SlackSnap lab where we are going to test everything we're not supposed to do to find out how dangerous it is. Sometimes I've put quick draw or an anchor and it kind of just doesn't sit exactly the way it should. And so it ends up being like this, pulling down. And in some situations, it's pulling pretty hard on this. Now, obviously that's bad. I don't feel like I should have to say that, but how bad is what we're gonna find out here on SlackSnap? What we did is we modified the SlackSnap machine where we put the hanger on the outside of the machine and then the dyno kind of embedded on this side. Let me show you how we got it. So this is a big giant rectangle with a hydraulic held together by paracord so it doesn't go flying. And here we have the dynamometer, the line scale two. Line scale three is almost out. Yes, this does function just fine. We do check it with our other dynos. We're just rough on our gear. And instead of pulling here, which is normally where our samples are, we put a bolt on the outside of this so it will pull on the side. And we're gonna find out how much lower strength we get with this carabiner. So the carabiner is being pushed on that second plate. And so it's being bent very poorly. And then it snaps at only 5.56 kilonewtons, which is really low. You could actually achieve that in a whipper. So in this test, we moved this plate. And so now it's being pushed up against the wall here. And being this high, it's not exactly being pulled in the middle, but more on the upper half. And this allows it to only pull like where a rope would pull as opposed to where the span set was kind of over this whole section. So let's pull on this one. Sorry, guys, I forgot to turn on peak force. Our next carabiner is the Camp Photon and it's being pulled a little bit less than half. Well, that's interesting. Oh, that's not very high. That is a force you can see when you're climbing. Now this is an amp carabiner. I don't know where the C went. You can kind of see it's bent. I have no idea where the carabiner went. This is disturbing. After much searching, we have found all the parts of all the carabiners. And the conclusion is, wow. This was, I found this to be quite interesting. I just sheared it off. And what's neat about this one is the nose broke off of this last one that we didn't have the peak force on because it ended up grabbing this so strong until the nose snapped. So I was really impressed with how the gate held on to the nose, even though the spine was already broken. Usually it happens the other way around. And this was our first one. Super interesting. Our next carabiner is a Tarango Locker with a nice fat round stock. And it's pushing up against the gate and against the locker itself. And so we'll find out if a little bit burlier of a carabiner holds, but it's also levered quite aggressively. Now that is interesting. Oh, did that break off? This is thick, but it was levered so much that it broke at the forces you get during a whip. Now this video was requested by Ben from Hard as Easy. And so you'll see some of these break tests in his video he's coming out with. You can go check out his channel. But I'm wondering if size matters. Of course it does. We all know that. But how much it's levered also matters. I think if I put this on there, it's only gonna be barely sticking up over the top, but it's a smaller carabiner. I mean, it's quite small actually. And I'm wondering how often you've ever seen this happen in real life. This could happen if somebody doesn't place a bolt well and it's going over an edge, or if you put in a cam deep-ish, but not deep enough to where the carabiner is kind of being loaded over an edge. I know I've placed cams to rig high lines, and I try to place them in deep and everything. And sometimes the carabiner kind of wants to lever against the edge. Then I have to stick it in like super deep. I don't really want the sling to go over the rock and then I have to pad it. So I've had this happen before, but of course I knew it was bad and I didn't high line on it. But this is pretty sketch. So put in the comments below if you've ever done it and seen it, or if you would ever do it, don't do it. I regret not filming your face because I was looking at you because I was behind this thing here and your face was like golden. Wow, that's strong. Oh shoot. Yeah, oh shoot. Okay. Things went flying. Oh, you're gonna love this. Wow, that's like all torqued. 18.44 on the little tiny guy because it's not levered too much. Leveraged. Levered? Put in the comments below how you say that. What happened to that gate? Oh, that may be a missing piece that flew around the room. Something hit something on the ceiling. Wow. That was very violent. It made a dent there. Interesting. So speaking of dents, my poor machine. I have to file this thing down when we're done. Now this scenario is probably something I've actually seen where you might actually have this on a quick draw and it goes over an edge and it's almost there but not quite. So let's see how this responds. Okay, so this was not bent when we started. Hold on little guy, you're fine. Woo, that thing is getting beat up. 18.11. I tried to actually pat it this time and it's caught by this little rope. Whoa, it didn't break. Hey, it's still usable. What's it rated to? 20 something, I'm sure. Could be higher. I don't know, there's tape on it. Let me cut it off. So how strong is that? So we peeled the tape off and we were surprised to learn. 31 kilonewtons. That is a really strong aluminum carabiner. That is bent. I finally found it. Since I was trying to test the spine on the last one, I failed. Let's do this. It's pretty levered here and then I don't know if it'll actually touch here before it breaks, but let's find out. That broke, that's interesting. But what was interesting is over there, it was like a pinball machine and we stand behind this thing. So it's a multi-purpose tool. Oh, we found it. So I found the other piece and it is bent. Apparently, if you try to put it on the spine, it'll twist and I don't know how to do it any better. So we're gonna just stop here. Apparently, size doesn't matter. It's all in how you lever or leverage or how you bend it. Ah, this joke's getting worse. Trying to keep it family friendly. Please leave a comment below how we can maybe test this again. Maybe we can try it in real rock and thank you Ben for bringing it up. If you wanna get some cool hats or some swag, you can go to slackline.com slash shop. We got some other stuff on there, some discounts on other products. But in case you're skipping through this video, the conclusion is pulled carabiners straight and not over edges. Who would've thought? Thanks for watching, subscribe. Cheers.