by Henry Pham
Once Upon a Time in the Middle East focuses on chef Xu Fu, who, seeking a fresh start, travels to the Middle East to support his family and repay his debts. Alongside restaurant manager Ma Junsheng, he transforms the struggling Dragon Restaurant into a thriving business. However, when war engulfs the city, their hard-won success is shattered, and the restaurant becomes a refuge for those caught in the conflict. As danger closes in, Xu Fu must risk everything to protect his newfound community and preserve a small beacon of hope amid the devastation.
Shen Teng (Pegasus Films) stars as Xu Fu, the head chef at Loong Chinese Restaurant, while Jiang Qiming (The Long Season) plays Ma Junsheng, the restaurant’s floor manager. Teng, known for his comedic roles, delivers a standout performance that brings heart, humor, and warmth to both his character and the film. His character is the most crucial part of the story. Jiang Qiming and Omar Sherif, who portrays Seif, also contribute significantly to the film’s emotional depth.
Wen Muye serves as both writer and director. The film presents a compelling narrative that explores war, guns, freedom, peace, friendship, conflict, and government corruption. Unlike many Hollywood war films, it focuses on the experiences of ordinary civilians, which is something most American audiences and film critics may not be familiar with. Huang Chao’s score adds depth, while Wang Boxue’s cinematography highlights the film’s visual artistry. Everything shown in the film is incredible, though some war scenes are unsettling (and unsuitable) for children under 13. But as they get older, they can use this opportunity to understand the familiarity of a war film.
The food and cooking scenes are also central, symbolizing love, family, and peace, and encouraging viewers who want to connect with those who have experienced loss. Not only that, but the plot also teaches us how many lives can be changed by conflict. The ending effectively portrays the passage of time, revealing the main character’s growth. The film’s pacing is well-balanced and never feels rushed. Be warned, it is emotionally heartbreaking in some scenes. So be prepared to get tissues in your hand as you go along.
The war storyline, food scenes, and Shen Teng’s performance are cooked well-done in Once Upon a Time in the Middle East. Honestly, this film deserves more recognition than other recent Hollywood productions (including remakes and sequels). The film clocks in at 140 minutes, but you wouldn’t feel forced into that time length. At least the food scenes will keep you entertained and hungry, like me. I think this film is a must-watch, especially for Chinese restaurant owners, chefs, food bloggers, food lovers, film critics, and Asian audiences. If you want to have a better understanding of Chinese people, their culture, their values, and how they see the rest of the world, here it is. You’ll be moved by the film’s messages of power, hope, and food.
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