Learn The Ultimate Eye Makeup Masterclass with Rae Morris | MECCAversity

Hi, my name is Rae Morris. I'm a fashion editorial makeup artist. I've been in the industry for a very long time and MECAversity has invited me into their studio so I can share my favourite tips and tricks with you. And my favourite trick of them all is something called EyeFi, a science-based beauty tip that I developed to help you master eye makeup to suit your eye shape. It helps you understand your eye shape so when you see new trends, when you see eyeliners and all these looks that you want to create, you know how to create them to suit your shape. On Sam, I've just done a little bit of skin prep. I've done a really light foundation. I haven't finished the skin. So you can see with my EyeFi technique how much the eyes look bigger and more lifted. I always start with a pencil that's really easy to smudge. I have to know where the lowest point of my eye is and the highest point of my eye is. And on Sam, her lowest point on her eye is kind of smack bang, I think it's around about here. And on her top eyelid, it's right, it's slightly closer to her nose. So all I have to remember is imagine those two points, point A and point B. And I want to extend the eye a third. If you look at all makeups that we all love and we're all drawn to, you rarely see a makeup that you love where the makeup stops at the corners of the eyes. Extending the eyes a really great way to make eyes look amazing. But when you do it for the first time, just take a pencil or something that you can smudge that won't dry and lock itself in. Something you can have a bit of a play. Learn how to do this, learn what shape works best on you. Then you can swap out these products for more long-lasting waterproof eye colors. So I'm going to come to the outer third of the eye and I'm just going to make sure that pencil disappears before it gets to the low point. I'm going to take a square lash line smudger brush and smudge that in and just extend the eye a third. So don't worry if you've come too low. I'm going to show you a really great trick. Take a angle brush, some foundation, look straight ahead and just imagine a straight line and you clean up any low points of the eye. So step one, add a third and extend the eye a third. Step two, we're going to connect that point and we're going to just with the pencil come all the way across. Think of it like a triangle and you want that pencil to stop before you get to the high point of the top eyelid and smudge. Just putting in that little bit of a test shape first is always a great idea. I'm going to intensify it with a darker long-lasting pencil. So here's another trick with the top eye. Let's say you put the pencil on like, have I got this right? Take a clean brush, add your eyelid primer color, a little bit of micellar water if you like and look down and it's a similar technique to what I do under the eye. I want to make sure that my pencil disappears when it gets to that high point. You want to make sure that line just completely disappears before it hits the high point. What I like to do is to push back that brow bone a little bit. So I'm going to take a really soft eye shadow color, think of it like a contouring color, just to push this part of the bone back. I'm going to connect it to the outer third of my eye and really simple, I'm just going to color in that out of third. I'm going to leave that whole eyelid nice and bare and remember that can be your finished look or you've got this beautiful open space on the eye now to add color, shimmer, anything you want. My favorite little area to add color because her eyes are green, a great color to make green stand out as violet. I'm taking this kind of burgundy violet shade just here. I'm taking one of my most used brushes, this is 8.5 and why I love it, it has a really sharp point to get really close to the lash line. It has a flat side to use to get flatter shapes on the eye and it's great to create contour sockets. So this area here, once I put my shape in, I love putting color just under the eyelid and this hint of violet will make her eyes look really green. It's also a beautiful little trick just to add to that first color I put on as a nice fade color. You can do this with green, with blue, go crazy. So I'm going to apply the mascara just to the tip. I'm going to do this little technique where I'm just applying mascara just to the roots of the bottom eyelash. You can't do this technique with a wand but with the metal comb, you can get just to the roots and what it does, it creates an eyeline without dragging the bottom eyelid down. My mascara tip is once you've applied with a metal comb, you'll very rarely use a wand again. This gets every lash right to the roots. When it comes to application, I ask myself two questions. Do I want to lift the eye? That if I do, the answer is yes. I'll do the top lashes only. If I want to make the eye bigger and more rounded, I'll do top and bottom. So now for the top eye, apply mascara, look down. So remember, mascara has like a setting agent in it. Think of it like hair gel. So however you comb them is kind of where they're going to stay. So when I come to this inner part of the eye, I make sure I comb those lashes close to the nose. And look, if you get a bit of mascara on the skin, my trick is let it dry, then just flake it off with a nail or even a little bit of a spoolie helps. And right to the roots. And a great little trick with this brush, baby wipe it straight away while it's still wet, cleans in a heartbeat. If you've accidentally forgotten about it, just take a spoolie or a clean mascara wand and just comb it off. One of my final little steps here is something that you might not see, but once I point it out, I bet you will. What I love to do is to extend the eye, not just open the eye, but create as much distance between this inner corner and that outer corner. And how I do it is this little tiny magic trick. This is my Square Lashline Smudger Brush 17. Square brushes are so much easier when you're working with liner close to the lashes and it creates a really precise line. I'm just coming right close to this waterline and doing the smallest of lines into the eye corner. And what you can see is this beautiful, really thin, faint line that makes the eyes more defined without looking obvious. I'm going to make the eyes look more open. You can use a white pencil, a cream pencil. This is a beautiful skin tone pencil. So you can see what this does. It just makes the eyes look brighter. When we're tired, we can get a red inner waterline. Think of it like redness under the eyes. This is like a way to conceal the inner eye. I haven't put concealer under eyes and we're so obsessed with conceal, get rid of darkness. But you can see how this technique, it just, she doesn't look like she even needs concealer. So when you lift the eyes and make the eyes look like you've got a tight ponytail, all those little things that we worry and focus on don't become a focus anymore. So that's why I like to do eyes first and now minimal concealer will be required. I feel younger and brighter, but still me. Like it's just accentuated and highlighted. I feel I look really fresh, like I've slept really well, like I've lost 10 years. Makeup is art. I love loud makeup, crazy makeup, heavy makeup. But my favourite makeup is ones that suit you personally. So no matter if you're a pro artist, a pro artist just starting, or just a lover of makeup, these tips I promise are really simple, but they'll really help you lift your game when it comes to everything makeup. Hope you enjoyed my masterclass. Thanks to my amazing model, Sam, who's been so patient. If you want to know more about Ray Morris, aka me, just go in the store or jump online and you can learn more about my brushes. So that was fun and until next time, bye.