How to Make a Jacket | Bolero Jacket | Ladies Jacket | Pattern drafting | Cutting and Stitching

Hi everyone I hope you're well and welcome back to my channel So this tutorial will be about making this beautiful bolero jacket And I'll be showing you step by step how to draft the pattern and how to cut and sew this beautiful jacket and I will also show you how to do it You can achieve a neat finishing If you're new to this channel welcome This is Dunlari and here on this channel I upload sewing tutorials and pattern drafting Consider subscribing and don' Forget to put on your notification bell so you get notified anytime I upload a new video So guys let's get started So to get started you're going to need your front and back basic bodice If you haven't watched my tutorial o How to draft your basic bodice pattern I'll put the link down in the description box so that you can watch that Having your A basic bodice pattern will make it much easier for you As you can see I have the front and the back basic bodice pattern here and this pattern is seamless so we're going to make a small modification to this pattern and we're going to add Our seam allowance to it So let's start with the front So this is the front basic bodice pattern and this is our shoulder line this is the neck line The upper chest line this is the bust line and this is the waist line So our bolero jacket depends on the line The length you want for your bolero jacket you can make it very short that is above your waistline or you can make it on your waistline depending on What you are trying to achieve but for the purpose of this tutorial we're going to be stopping at the waistline so you can go above the waistline and you can stop at the waistline so Depending on how you want it This is the basic neck line that I use which is four inches for the neck width and four inches for the neck depth e neck depth and as you can see I've also placed the waist dart and this is the side seam so this is without the seam allowance So to start the modification we're going To start with the neck line I use four inches I want to make this neck line three and a half inches instead of these Four inches depending on how you want it and also take note that it all depends on your shoulder measurement so my shoulder measurement is seven and a half inches from the center front to this point Instead of these four inches now I want to make this three and a half inches So I'm marking three and a half inches like this so that is the first Thing and then the second thing is that I want to enlarge the shoulder slope a little bit Remember you're going to be wearing This on another dress so you need to enlarge it a little bit To enlarge this you can add just 0.25 to it So that's what I will be adding to it so I'm adding 0.25 you can add up to 0.25 depending on how wide your shoulder measurement is What I want to do now is to connect this new neck line width to this point So can you see that so this is our new neck width and this is our new shoulder slope So once you've done this then we move on to the We need to enlarge the armhole a little bit so I will enlarge this by 0.5 inches coming to the under the arm Around here so you mark 0.5 inches and then we're going to be connecting this to this point to create our new armhole curve So can you see the way I place my curve I'm just going to draw it like this so now that we' ve enlarged the shoulder slope and the armhole area And we've also created a new neck width for our bolero jacket The next thing we want to do now is to create our curved center front so this actually depends on what you I want you to make it just a little bit from here through to your neck line and you can decide to start the curve from your side seam so this actually depends On how you want it and if you're starting from before the dart it means you're going to be having this dart but we don't want to have the dart then you will need to star After this dart so if you're starting from let's say towards the side seam area you will need to cut off the dart But if you're starting before the dart you just want it a little bit curved around the front so that means you are keeping the dart and then you're going to be sewing the dart so for the purpose of this tutorial we're going to be starting from the side The seam area which means we're going to be cutting off the darts but another thing you can do is relocate this dart to another position maybe you can move this dart You can move this dart to the side or to the shoulder area or to the armhole area you can manipulate the dart depending on how you want it In this tutorial we're not keeping this dart which means we are cutting off the darts on the front bodies so what we are going to mark now is that from the The upper chest line you will mark depends on how open you want it so you can mark one inch or 1.25 inches So I'll be marking 1.25 inches here on the upper chest line then at the side seam I will just mark one inch from the side seam line Remember no seam allowance has been added yet so I'm just marking one inch here so now that we've marked all these points we're going to be connecting To this point and to this point using the curved part of your ruler so you make sure it is well curved so that it will come out nice so I'll go ahead now and draw a curved line From here to here and to here but if your own starts from here that is very fine just curve it from here down to this point and down to this point so I will go ahead and draw this curved line As you can see what I have so I've tried my best to make it well curved because whatever you draw is what you will achieve So look at it very carefully before you cut into the fabric and you can make the necessary adjustments So I think I want it to come down a little more around here So I'm just using my free hand to draw the curve like this and you see that I think this is perfect yes this is perfec So I like this now that we have drawn this then we go ahead now and add our seam allowance to this pattern so to the center front the curved center fro We're going to be adding a half inch seam allowance to the shoulder slope a half inch seam allowance to the armhole curve and a half inch seam allowance and to the side seam you don't even need much seam allowance so because we're going to be closing it up So you can add 0.5 or 0.75 inch allowance or up to one inch so depending on how you can manage it so I will go ahead now and add this seam allowance Then we're going to work on the back so I've cut it out and this is what the front looks like so we go ahead now and modify the back To start working on the back pattern as you can see that we don't have any seam allowance here we don't need any seam allowance for this jacket So we're going to be modifying it whatever you did to the front you will do to the back regarding the modification So for the neck width I use 3.5 inches for the front So I will mark 3.5 inches from the center back So like this and then I will also come to the shoulder slope I will add 0.25 inch then I will connect these two together And then I will also need to adjust the neckline so I will use my free hand to do that So for the neck depth of the back I use one inch So you can use one inch or 1.5 inch So let 's move on to the under the arm around here we're going to drop by half an inc And then we create a new armhole curve for the back So for the back waist darts we're going to be keeping the back waist darts I use 1.5 inches for the back waist darts so I use 1.5 inches here because we need more darts Since we've eliminated the front darts we need more darts for the back to make this jacket firm at the back and to fit well with our back shape You know our back is curved so you need more darts for the back so I use 1.5 inch for the back dar And once you've done that you can go ahead and add your seam allowance around this pattern just like we did for the front So we're going to add a half-inch seam allowance to the neckline o the shoulder slope o the armhole curve and then half an inch to the side or you can add more than that depending on what you want so like this and then also to the end line you add half an inch seam allowance So I will go ahead and smoothen these broken lines so I've smoothened the broken lines and for the back I would like to have a facing for the bac So this is optional You can decide to cut out the lining exactly the same way you cut out the main fabric So in my case I want to add a facing to the back So to do that I will just come down from this seam allowance or if you are coming down from your main neckline you can make it two inches or three inches depending on how wide you want it So I just want to make this three inches here and at the shoulder area I will just mark two and a half inches So just play around with it and curve it any way you want it and then I will connect this mark to this mark so I will just use my free hand to create a nice curved facing For the facing now I will be using the same fabric I'm using for the jacket for this upper part and the rest of it will be the lining So I will go ahead now and trace this out on another pattern paper this facing I will trace it out on another pattern paper and then you remember we've added seam allowance to this par All you need to do once you've traced it out is to add seam allowance to this down part of the facing since you are going to be joining it with the lining And also to the lining you will need to add seam allowance to the upper part so that you will be able to join these two so this is optional if you don't want to stress yourself Just cut out whatever you have for the back you cut it out on the lining but if you want it to look more professional you can go ahead and add the facing to So I will go ahead and do that and I will cut this out then we move on to cutting on the fabric so guys I've cut everything out and this is what it looks like so this is the back this is the front and this is the back facing as you can see I've added the seam allowance to this part so now that we have our pattern drafted out So we move ahead now and cut it on the fabric So exactly what you have here is what you will cut out on the fabric Since we've added our seam allowance around this pattern So for the front we're going to cut out two pieces for the front and then for the back you're going to cut out just one piece for the back So you're going to be cutting the back center back on the fold so you're not having two pieces for the back so you cut out just one piece and just two pieces for the fro So you cut out the front lining exactly the same way and then you cut out the back lining you can cut it out exactly the same way and then you trim off the facing part of So I'll be using the fabric as the facing and then I will use the normal lining for the rest of the back so I will go ahead and cut it on the fabric Then I will show you how to assemble it So for the sleeve you will need your basic sleeve block I have a tutorial on how to draft this basic sleeve block You can check it out I will put the link down in the description box and I also have a tutorial on how you can modify your how you can enlarge your basic sleeve block to create the jacket patter So I will also put the link down in the description box So this is the sleeve that I have And also you cut out any desired length that you want So this is below the elbow line And I also added the seam allowance to the M line and to the side seam so I will go ahead now and cut it out on the fabric and then we are going to start sewing it So I've cut it out on the fabric as you can see it and I used around one yard of the African print fabric so I've also cut out the lining exactly the same way So this is the sleeve The lining is just 0.25 inch shorter than the fabric as you can see here So I've cut out the sleeve and the lining So this is the front So I have two pieces for the front and two pieces for the lining of the front This is the back facing I cut out just one piece unfold And then this is the back So this is the main fabric and this is the lining part so the facing part will just be on it like this so this is what we are trying to So this is what we are trying to achieve here So can you see that So let me just place the pattern on it So can you see what we are trying to achieve So the next thing we want to do is to assemble it Start from the back So the first thing you need to do is transfer the back darts to the main fabric then transfer the darts to the main fabric and then sew it separately Line the fabric separately so you sew the darts on the lining separately sew it on the main fabric separately and then we're going to connect these two together so you join the facing to the lining So to make it easier you can just notch the center back on the two pieces you notch it and then you connect the two notches together pin it down And once you pin it down it will be very easy for you So just come to the shoulder tip And then you follow the shape Follow the shape on the lining And then you sew it through to the other side then you sew the darts so I will do that for the back and then I will show you what nex I've sewn the darts for the back as you can see this is the dart on the main fabric and this is what the lining looks like so can you see the facing here So this is the wrong side of the lining and this is the right side of the lining so this is what we have so the next thing we want to do now We are going to join the fabric separately and the lining separately in order for us to achieve a neat finish so we are going to place the front on the back like this Whatever you do to the main fabric that is what you will do to the lining so I will go ahead now and join it at the shoulder and at the side Then you do the same thing to the lining so for the sleeve we're going to be joining the sleeve separately so you join the sleeve at the side like this Then you do the same thing to the lining separately So you join it at the side as well on the lining So I will go ahead and do this And I will show you what comes next So I've joined it together as you can see and this is what we have so this is the main fabric and this is what the right side looks like so you do the same to the lining s is the lining So can you see that So this is the right side of the lining And this is the wrong side of the lining And also for the sleeve So just like I said earlier so you will need to sew the sleeve separately and then you sew the lining separately so once you've done this the next thing we want to do now is to jo So we want to join the main fabric together We want to join the lining all together So you go ahead now and attach the sleeve So this is the main fabric I will attach the sleeve to the main fabric like this and then I will attach the sleeve to the lining as well so you are going to be sewing the lining separately and then you sew the main fabric separately So I'll go ahead and do that then I will show you what next so guys I've joined the sleeve to the bodice as you can see and this is what we have So I hope you can see it and this is what the back looks like so I've done the same to the lining so the lining separately and then the main fabric separately So that is how we can have a neat finishing This is what the back looks like First thing we're going to do now is to connect this lining to the fabric We're going to start with the sleeve so that will make it very easy for you the first thing you will do is to turn the sleeve you turn the main fabric to the wrong side just like I've done here turn the lining to the wrong side as well like this so we have the wrong side and you know that whenever we want to sew the right side will be facing each other to join the sleeve together all you need to do is pic so this is the main fabric and this is the lining so you pick the sleeve of these two and then you pick the sleeve and then you look for the seam line area like this so this is the seam line place the two together at the seam line and then you' re going to sew it using your seam allowance So you will just sew it around so you can open this up so that it will be flat so you open the seam here like this and then you will need to sew it around so you go around like this so that is what you will do so you sew it round like that and then you do the same to the other side so I'll go ahead and do this and then I will show you what nex So now that we've joined the sleeve the next thing we want to do now is to join everything together place the right side of the lining on the right side of the fabric So this is the neckline area You can see the back facing So you sew it from anywhere You can sew it from the center back So you just sew it from this neckline You sew it Then you make sure the shoulder lines are lined up both on the lining and on the main fabric and then you sew it through to the center front so this is the center front en down to the M line So you sew it through to the M line like this and then to the other side which is the other center front area so you sew it like this like this And then back to where we started from So I'll go ahead and sew it round like that And then I will show you what next I've sewn it round the neckline e center front as you can see it so this is the M line this is the M line this is the other side of the center front so can you see that so we have done this So as to turn everything to the right side you will need a little opening in order to turn everything out to the right side so you just create a little opening from one of the sleeves So I've done that here So like one and a half inch or two inches Depending on how you can manage it And this is what I have in one of the sleeves The lining not the main fabric Make sure you want to hide it on the lining so we are going to be turning this out through this opening so just pull out everything through this opening So once you've turned it out this is what you will have so can you see what the inside looks like very neat can you see that and this is what the outside looks like so I will still go ahead and iron this so this is what the wrong side looks like this is the back so can you see how neat it is and this is what we are trying to achieve So back to the little opening that we have which is here so this little opening you can just go ahead and top stitch it like this and then we are done with our bolero jacket So can you see how beautiful and how easy it is to make Thank you guys for watching to the very end I hope you find this helpful If yes don't forget to give it a thumbs up Leave your comment down in the comment section Kindly subscribe to my channel if you are yet to do so Until I see you guys in my next one Have a wonderful day Bye