We make a door frame from scratch using 100+ year old reclaimed rafters, gifted to us by our neighbours when they re-roofed. The old wood is twisted, full of woodworm and very hard work, but it's free and full of character!
In this episode of our old stone finca restoration in Murcia, Spain, we joint the twisted timbers, plane them back to beautiful old grain, rout a drainage channel and angled weep holes into the sill so rain runs outside, then square, brace and fit the frame into the 150-year-old stone wall opening.
If you enjoy traditional building restoration, reclaimed wood projects and off-grid life in Spain, you'll feel right at home here.
Chapters 0:00 Why we have to make our own door frame 1:13 Jointing the twisted header 2:26 Planing 100-year-old rafters 3:49 Hidden woodworm revealed 3:58 Cutting the sill to fit 7:09 Flattening the cupped sill 8:24 Routing a drainage channel 9:39 Drilling angled weep holes 11:30 Oiling the reclaimed timber 12:14 Assembling the frame 14:29 Squaring and bracing the frame 15:36 Removing the old gypsum base 17:17 Test fitting in the stone wall 18:15 Fixing it in place 20:12 Level and square!
We would love you to join us on our journey, living off grid, renovating our 150 year old abandoned Finca in southern Spain, using traditional building techniques and living a more self sufficient life with our rescue animals. Please consider subscribing to the channel to receive notifications of our future videos - best of all, it's free!
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Video Summary
AI Generated
The video documents the process of creating a custom door frame for a finca using reclaimed, century-old rafters. Because the doorway is an irregular size, the team must hand-craft the frame, overcoming challenges such as twisted wood and woodworm, before successfully installing it into the stone opening.
Welcome back to the Finca.
The sunshine's returned.
Indeed, thank goodness.
We're still working on this doorway and of course...
We're not going to be able to buy a frame to fit this.
You couldn't if you wanted to. It's a very
odd size, the thickness of the walls, everything.
So like with everything else around here we've
got to make one so Andy's in the process of doing that.
We've got some old hundred plus year old
rafters from next door when they did the roof
on that which have been gifted to us. They are old
Twisted, bent, curved, bananas, very difficult to work with.
It's free, the only cost is our time and money.
Time and time, not money and time.
So what we're going to do yet,
we're going to try and get this frame in in this video
and so let's go
and have
a look. So in
the workshop
we've managed to get two straight-ish legs for our sides
and we cut the
The rebate's out of this where the door's going to sit into.
The next thing you want to look at is getting the header on.
This is the piece that we're going to use
and the plums have started straight away.
So what we've got, if you can see that side there,
it's quite a nice joint. This side,
because this wood is twisted, it's all going to be,
I've got a bit of a gap here.
I was debating whether to plane this off this side
but I think I'm just going to cut this
at the same angle as that so we get a nice clean joint there.
That's the first thing to do.
So I've just scribed the angle here where I want to cut it.
This is of course going to make this side
shorter than that side but that's not a problem
because we need to adjust the lengths anyway.
We'll get to that in a bit
but for now let's see if we get a nice
clean joint across here. Nice
tidy joint there now
so that's phase one of probably a hundred complete. So I think the next
job especially while the sun's shining is to get them all plane down
and make them look like new.
It's like a woodworm, the character I suppose.
It's well gone, it's not going to do any damage.
Right, so that was a bit sort of satisfactory.
I'm going to look at the base, which is a bit more complicated.
I'm going to cut it to fit inside.
the frame here and then notch around for that i'm
also going to cut out the rebate i'm not going to
cut the rebate on the top i'm actually going to cheat
and put an extra piece on but for the bottom
i can and so i think the first thing you want
to do is cut it to length it's also going to need a
channel in this for the drain so any water that hits the door
and runs down is going to run outside
standard on any window system window or door system
but the first thing i want to cut this
I'm going to cut this to my length that will fit nicely.
Inside here, I think I'm actually going to cheat on this side as well,
rather than cut, notch this out, which won't give me
a lot of height for my drainage channels to run through.
I'm going to put a piece on inside, but first of all,
I need to notch out and mark it off around this frame,
even though that's working. So that'll fit inside there nicely.
Yeah, that's worked. Same on this side.
I'll probably cut these out with the jigsaw, I think.
Easiest way. So we go,
all right I'm hoping this
is blade's gonna be long
enough to go through this.
Should just, if not I might have to plane it down first
and then
make just
to make it
a bit thinner,
have a look.
It's doing it.
So I've been deliberating with the bottom.
I think I'm going to do it the same way.
I'm going to put this piece on the bottom.
I've cut it to the right exact width that I need.
What I need to do is just trim these back
because this now makes my whole thing
too long. The idea was originally to put this inside there.
But these, every, the wood's not square at all and to get a cut to fit
and look good on that side and that side and on the underneath
which is the opposite face as well was proving a bit difficult.
So I've changed plan B. This should work really nice,
exactly the same as the top.
So, if I pick it up in the morning and I'm running out of sunlight,
running out of daylight,
what I'm just going to do is cut these back
and then get that in and then we can start putting it together.
So what we need to do with this,
it's a bit cupped so I'm going to plane this center bit off here so
it's flat so it doesn't rock and so it's the right length
because this edge is a perfect
length but this is a millimeter or two too long
so I'm going to plane that off flat
and then I need to cut a channel all along
the front here level with these
rebates there for the water
so if any water hits the door it'll run into that channel and then we
make two holes through to the front so it'll run out.
It's a proven technique it does work
so I think first job
though I'm going to plane I'm planing this front down and planing the
the back down
as well. So I'm
just marking
where I want
this tunnel
to go I'm going
to draw a line
across my two marks and try and router it out.
That's all I've done, I've clamped myself a guide
on so I can slide that along, that's the theory.
It's a cut router, always cut left to right by the way,
especially if you're cutting worktops, you don't want to chip them.
There you
go, if you
can make
that out,
very nice
too, well
done Andy.
All we've got to do now is make some holes through
from here to the front on an angle,
so any water that hits the door will run down there
into that tunnel and go outside.
That's not going to be easy either, so that's just about perfect.
So all I've got to do now is try and find the angle
and I'm probably going to put a line
on the side or something that I can work to.
But yeah, it's gonna happen, that's it.
Let's have a look.
Right, let's get some measuring out.
It's a
fraction
high but
it won't
matter,
I'll
still do
the job.
Okay, one more go.
There we go, we've got three nice drainage holes
in amongst all the woodworm, it's absolutely amazing.
You can't even see it when you look
at the wood until you're planing it down and it's all inside.
Absolutely incredible but it's character, it's staying that way.
Just make sure there's plenty of oil on it out
when we oil it just to soak right into that.
So yeah, it's ready to go together now I think.
I've just marked all these pieces up,
I think we're going to give them a serious coat of oil.
Before we put it back together in view
of the woodworm and stuff inside.
So make sure it's all completely sealed
so nothing in the future can affect it.
Well that's the plan.
Look how wobbly they are.
That's what we're up against.
It's all allowed for though.
It's all going
to be good.
Well it's dried off look at that how beautiful
is that look at that old grain
with the wood worm on this side with lovely colours
in it absolutely beautiful you don't
get wood like this anymore
so now um it's dry enough to put together right so um we're going
to screw it together we've got it squared
to the table i'm going to do this side first i'm
just going to countersink these with a big bit
because the screws are the woods are very thick
So we're just going
to countersink them
in a little bit and then
I'm going to drill all
the way through now
through this top piece
so that the screw doesn't bite on that so it pulls them nice and tight.
This wood is so hard, the reason
for doing that is because when it
goes in that much of the screw
probably it will bite up against the threads
so we want this to flow freely through this top bit
So I'll just pull into that, about there.
Pull it nice and tight, so let's get them in,
do this corner first, making sure we don't move it,
put it back
in a minute.
That's
absolutely
beautiful,
there we go.
Perfect perfect lovely joint right we'll get
the other three sides done same way.
So we've just squared it up to square it up measure across
your corners I've measured across
the inside corners where the door is going
to be so the door is going to be square because this
wood is all varying thicknesses
and things I'm just going to put some diagonal braces on it
just to hold it exactly where we want it
and when we move it so and then we'll fit it
With these braces in place,
pack it all but if they get it all nice and then we can take the braces
off and it shouldn't move that's the theory.
I might need a hammer and a couple of nails.
Tip make sure that your braces don't stick out beyond your frame
because it could interfere with your wall.
There we go looks nice doesn't it exciting
we have a door frame just got to get it installed now make the door.
And just before we bring it in we know we're gonna have
to take this bottom thing out it's just
It's just rubbish basically, probably all gypsum,
like a gypsum crete, if that exists.
I'm going to do this.
Probably possibly going to have to take
these signs off as well, but I think we're just
going to get this out first,
in fact I may as well get that off at the same time, and
have a look, just to make sure that it's going to fit.
Tilly's uh helping but it's it's
a shame actually they actually look like they're stones but we
don't think that they
were, yeah, don't think
it out it's easy enough and we're
going to put a nice lime creek base down here
stone there, right, it looks like the old footing so
i'll get that off
and get
these sides off
and that one
that one of them
will carry
on see if it fits
Well, nearly fits.
Once we've got an idea of this we can
then start looking at the stonework.
Go
past
the
acros,
oh
dear
it had
to fit
didn't
it.
Something like that.
So where this is touching
our lintel there I'm going to stick a screw in it.
It's pretty pretty good and we've wedged it up in a bit of places.
We've got one screw in here and then we'll
be able to just make the final adjustments
without worry of it moving.
I'm going to countersink this into here again
because we're going to be sticking another piece
over the front we don't need to hide the screws
or anything just got to get and make sure I get
it
where
it's
touching.
I'm
going
to go
for
there.
Not
easy.
It's
in.
Messing
them
out.
It's definitely it's always this level it's square in every direction.
I'm ready for an ice cold beer.
Absolutely.
So on that note we're going to call it a video,
thank you so much for watching, thank you
to all our subscribers and if you've got this far
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