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Hey everyone, it's Deja from CrochetEverAfter.com.
Today we are making this waffle weave baby blanket.
This, I'm going to show you how to do the waffle weave stitch because
this is just a basic, gigantic, rectangle, square sized baby blanket.
So it's just having this stitch pattern work over and over,
but I'll give you the pattern
so that if you want to make the baby blanket you can.
Or I'll also tell you how you can adjust
the size for this. Super simple.
Um, the yarn that I'm using is a little bit thicker than this yarn.
This is a Bades Bork.
The yarn I'm using is more worsted,
so you'll see kind of a difference in the texture.
If you're going to use a worsted weight yarn, go up in hook size.
So you'll see that this
yarn that I have here, I used a six millimeter USJ hook.
You'll see the difference in the texture.
This is very drapey, very soft.
I'm using large hooks, larger than I normally would for this yarn
because of the way this stitch is made.
We want lots of loops. We want it to be drapey and not super dense.
Either way, it's very lofty, kind of a double thickness,
which you'll see when we work it, how it becomes double thickness.
So it's super warm. This is a great blanket,
not just for a baby, but for anybody.
So you can definitely make this for.
I'm going to show you how to do the edging
and how to get gauge and all that good stuff.
So go ahead and grab your yarn if you're going to use worsted.
I would probably recommend a K or an L hook
of the project to otherwise use the split
weight with the J.
And we'll get started.
Alright, to get started with your blanket you're just going
to put a slip knot on your
hook.
It's the easiest
way I like to grab
your working yarn.
For the actual baby blanket pattern, you're going to chain 101 chains.
What you're going to do, just get
an estimate of what the chains
are, it shouldn't shrink
too much in the width, or make a swatch
to make how wide you want your project, so if
you're making a size bed, how big a queen size bed is,
72 inches maybe, and you get
4 stitches per inch,
then you're going to want to times 72 times the chains.
Use a stitch marker if you're going to do that,
so, well, it doesn't really matter if
you're off a few chains
because it's not specific to the amount of chains to make, just make
Make as close as you can.
Once you get to 101,
or whatever stitches you need,
we're just going to stop.
So once you get to the 100 stitches, 101 stitches,
or whatever stitches you're going to do, why
do you want this?
You can even start as a washcloth and see if you like the stitch first.
Once you finish, you're going to start row one, which is really simple.
You're just going to turn
a single crochet.
So stick one of the other loops, try not to,
just grab this back loop, and once we turn
So single crochet.
This is a shawl pin that I'll be giving
away when it's in a package, of course.
On my website, I'll probably post that tomorrow.
So what we worked in,
what's left in front
is this front loop.
So we have these coming down all around.
So what I'm going to do is I'm just going
to stick the pin through that front loop.
You can see what's going on. So if you have a stitch marker
or a pin or anything, this is a good way.
I'll actually put it over here
so that you can see the very first stitch.
Put it through that very first loop, this around,
because what we're going to be doing is working into our back loop.
You can see the pin is coming out right here.
This would also be if I go one over, because usually
that first stitch is kind of small and a little difficult to see.
So if I put it in the second stitch, it might be a little easier.
Here is the back loop
is right above it.
The bottom bump is right above it
and that's what we're going to be creating our waffles.
You can also look at the back side of your single crochet.
It kind of looks like two legs with a mushroom top.
So the legs are sitting like
this and they're sitting right on top of your bottom bump.
So this is what we need to recognize
so that we can work into them to create the waffles
that we have.
Here's our very first one right here.
We are going to insert our hook into this
bottom bump, but we're also going to insert
I'm going to insert it into the front.
So this is another loop that you need to recognize.
So if you're just looking at this,
it's that one right on top facing you, you want to get
more down and dirty, look sideways, you'll see your V's,
that are the tops of your stitches,
it's going to be the one onto also.
The way we're going to do that is we're going to go from the bottom up,
coming down here
to this bottom bump,
from the bottom to the top,
and go through that front loop of my
Starting sideways, you can see that I'm right in between the V,
so this is going to create
that waffle weave text yarn over,
so I kind of just lay my hook, or my yarn over my hook,
turn my hook.
Piecing that way is kind of the easiest way
to get through these stitches, because where
you have a V, if you go towards the center of that V,
it's the easiest to get through.
Point your hook towards your next stitch,
pull through that, the bottom bump, bring
it up to the top of your stitch,
because you could go ahead and single crochet right there,
There, but you're going to have a really scrunched tiny stitch.
So it's sitting on top of your work.
Yarn over and pull and bump down here.
So if you need to put some stitch markers in those front loops
because those are kind of easy to see
right here. If you need help finding that bottom bump
from the bottom up straight up right on from
row one through both.
You see now why we're using kind
of a bigger hook for the yarn because if this
was like an H hook or a five millimeter
my stitches would be really tight and it would
It would be a lot more difficult to get my hook through.
But using a larger hook gives you more room
so that you can get through these nice and easy.
Bottom bump again.
The foundation chain can be a little bit difficult to get through.
I like it to be a little bit more tighter than looser
so that it looks a little bit better.
So if you don't want to put in edging, you don't have to.
Don't be edging.
So you're going to do this all
the way across your hundred stitches.
Because you skipped that first chain, so you just have
a hundred stitches now or whatever size you're going to make this.
Um, then we'll go for row three
so you can see how you're going to work that because
you don't have a foundation chain, a foundation,
yeah, a foundation chain to work into.
And I'll show you how to do that right after we finish row,
although technically, but kind
of the first row of waffle weave, and I wanted
to make sure that you guys know how to work
into this last stitch because it looks strange,
and it's because of that turning chain.
So it's, you're just working into the last stitch
that actually looks like a stitch.
So if you turn your hook sideways, you have...
So we've worked in right here, and then we have this last one here.
The top of your stitch almost looks like it wasn't worked into,
the second to last one,
but you can see that one piece
of yarn going across, so don't mistake that.
What we have over here is our turning chain,
so it's kind of like a little nub.
So we ignore the nub
and just work
into that last stitch.
Two rows, but it almost looks like just one row
because of how we worked that stitch,
where it came out and through the first row.
It didn't create a whole lot of height,
so you can see that this could take a while.
If you want to just try it out on a washcloth first
to make sure you like doing this stitch.
But it's a great kind of mindless stitch
where you can just keep watching some TV.
Now we are ready for row three.
Alright, so for row three when we turn,
do the same step that we just did.
We have the lines across the bottom and your front loop on top.
And that's basically what you're going to be working into,
but just so you understand the mechanics of it.
what that line is remember this down here
was our where we worked into the foundation chain and then
we came up and we worked through the front loop of the single crochet
so if i turn it what you're
seeing here is the back loop
of that single crochet see how it's been worked into down here
so what you see is the rest of row one
loops that we're now working into with our row two front loops.
So we're kind of working into both loops but at different rows.
So each row is going to have the current front loop
of the pre the front loop of the
just row you just made and the back loop of the row before that.
Hopefully that makes some sense.
Otherwise just look straight at your project and look for the two
most visible loops that you have.
So again I chain one then I go up through there through that
back loop or just the loop that you see at the bottom
and then through the front loop up at the
top pulling it up starting to see
the texture of the waffle weave.
So these get a lot easier to
Here to work into as you go.
The foundation chain is usually the hardest to do and as I work
that so you can start to see those little holes of the waffle
Turn it over you can see I have that loop that I didn't work
into and that's gonna be the next one that we use
Because now we have two, but we want to use the closest.
So I'll finish this row and then we'll do row four together also
So you can see where you're putting your hook.
Okay last stitch of the row
It's a little crunched and funky looking but we still have those two
Line, so make sure that you're doing the last stitch.
It's kind of difficult to count 100 stitches to make sure
that you've got them all after every single row.
See that they should line up pretty well.
You should have just kind of a little nub here from the turning chain.
And then you've worked into that stitch.
So usually at the beginning of the row or the end of the row
is where you end up losing stitches if you're brand new.
So you just want to kind of watch those two places
if you don't want to actually sit there and count.
And also, if you need counter stitches,
you can either count the back side, kind of easier than the front side,
or just count the tops, count the Vs.
So you want to make sure that you have 100
for sure you can count each time.
But just making sure you're working
on that last stitch should help you.
So now you can see that we have two.
Line, dashes, but you're only going
to work under the closest dash to you.
I say dashes because they look like little dashes coming across.
We don't touch the bottom row now because that one is complete.
We have our little holes for it in the front, our little waffle weave,
and now we're working the waffle weave into the next one.
Again, chain one, come up.
So make sure that you're going into the right stitch
so you can see you have this little thing right here.
That's part of the turning chain.
You want the big dash.
That's right here.
So make sure you go into the right dash,
but you don't create a stitch because if you go
into both of those,
you don't create a stitch,
and then start doing your crochets again.
Basically what we do for the entire pattern,
same thing over.
Baby blanket, I went for 200 rows,
so if you like the size measurement that you see in
That's what you're going to want to go for, 200 rows.
If you're making this for a special size,
so like a queen size bed, you're going to
want to measure the bed and then you can just measure this as you go.
If you don't want to pay attention to your rows,
it's probably easier than actually figuring
out how many rows you need when you re-gauge,
which I'll just show you how to re-gauge in
a little bit once I get some more hype to this.
That would probably be a lot easier
because counting the rows on this might not be too
fun.
It's not super hard,
but it's kind of like two rows for each, between each dash.
It'll probably be a lot easier just to measure it,
so you can do that for whatever size you want to make.
You can see on this side,
we have our loop that we're going to be working into next.
We have our waffle down here.
Once we work into this loop, we're going
to have another waffle right above it.
Here we have our waffle forming,
so we have kind of our first set of waffles on each side.
And as we go, they are going.
It's really, it's actually quite soft, it doesn't feel,
it doesn't feel very stiff like you would think it would
because of how doubled up it is, but it's very lofty
and it catches a lot of air so it keeps you really warm,
so it would be a really good blanket for anybody, not just a baby.
So I'm going to go and do.
All the way until this is about a square,
and then I'm going to show you how to do the gauge.
And...
Just in case you want the same exact size blanket, or you just keep
going to the size that you want and then we'll come back and do
the edging. So the edging is really simple,
but I'll show you just in case you need it.
All right, I'm going to show you how to get gauge or check gauge on
your blanket. So I'm using the actual baby blanket
because as opposed to the worst of weight that I use for the sample.
This is going to be closer.
This is going to be what the gauge on your pattern is.
So if you're doing the baby blanket,
that's the gauge that you want to get.
If you want the exact same size. Otherwise, just go ahead and do it,
and you'll get close enough with using the hook that's recommended.
But if you are a stickler for the exact same size,
this is how you check it.
So what you do is you take your gauge checker or a measuring tape,
whatever you have on hand.
I like the Susan Bates Knit Check because it's metal,
so it doesn't bend, and it has a little window cut out.
For my gauge. So I'm looking at these V's,
these little guys here, the single crochets.
So what I want to do, you can see kind
of this line coming down on each one, just line up right
against that. Line it up,
make sure your project is laying flat and loose, and then count those
little V's. So we have one, two, three, four,
five, six, seven, and a half. So you can see
just half of that V sticking out there.
So seven and a half stitches for two inches.
That would be 15 stitches for 4 inches.
And then I'm going to work my way up.
So each of these, this V between this V,
between the two Vs, is two rows.
Because remember we did that waffle stitch
that kind of scrunched them down.
It took part of a row before
and part of a row even the one before the before.
So it's using up a lot of space.
So, each one of these little V's is going to count as two rows,
so I can say I have 2, 6, 8, 12,
and then I have kind of a half right here.
I'm saying 2 because I have this V
and then I have
this space before counting as 2,
12, just like that V right there.
It's not quite a total V.
Move it off.
I'm going to go for 13. I'm going to say 13 is close
because this isn't detrimental to get the exact gauge.
It's not going to mess up the fit because you don't wear it.
So I'm going to put 13 for the gauge,
but now you know how to actually count it, what it means.
So let's get back to the project.
I'm going to show you how to do the final row
so you don't have the weird line that you're probably going,
like, how am I supposed to get rid of this line
at the end? Let me show you that now.
Okay, so I finished this last row. Pretty close to a square.
I just kind of wanted to make a square. I'm folding it.
Probably this next row should cover that.
And you've probably been working and going,
what am I going to do with this? If I'm not working in,
every time I make a row, I'm going to have this on the other side.
So now we're going to do the finishing row.
So this is going to be the last row of your project before the edging
so that you can get rid of this line to make, or you won't create
the line on this side when you're making this final row.
So just like normal we're going
to chain one. Okay so we're going
to chain one and we're going to start
everything like normal. We're going to go through that loop
but instead of catching just the front
loop this time we're going to catch both loops.
I'm going to go under both loops at the top and what that
does because if I went under just the front loop we would create
that back loop bridge again but if I go under
I have no ridge.
So make sure this is the last row that you
do because you won't have anything to create
the waffle stitch in after this.
Again, bottom and the back,
pull these, and I'll show you
the backside getting through
that front loop now.
It's a little bit difficult to do, so you get used to it.
So now, when I turn it over,
I have no ridge.
So it looks slightly different because it doesn't have the defined...
So I'm going to finish this row
and then we are going
to do the very easy edging
for this blanket.
I try to keep it simple because this is a very kind
of simple utilitarian stitch to kind of make the edging the same way.
So let me show you how to do that in just a second.
This is the last edge and I fastened off.
So if you look at it from the front, it would definitely
be the right side because you have the waffles all the way around.
You can see this last row right there is just slightly different.
Not like super different where you can really notice it.
So if you want to pick a long right side,
I would pick the side that you just finished
and fastened off as the beginning for your edging.
Grab our yarn and put a slip knot on our hook.
Right where I ended over here.
You can start wherever you want,
it's totally personal preference, standing single crochet.
So when you see the pattern,
it'll say SC evenly around entire blanket and then SC three
times in each corner to make a turn.
So what that means is when you get
to the very last stitch that you're at, you're going
to put three single crochets in it,
I started here so you can see this right away, three
Two crochets, and that's gonna create an automatic turn.
I also want to start here so you can see the sides
because it's easy to work in the front and bottom because it has loops
that are already predetermined for you to work into.
When you get to the sides, it's not so simple.
You have to kind of figure out where you want to put your hook
so that your stitches are even and they look nice
and you're not taking up too much of your side edge here.
So what I'm going to do is I'm going
to try to go for these little V's here.
I'm going to see how much space this gives me
when I single crochet into them.
Because remember, this was kind of scrunched down,
so it's not like I can fit two whole
stitches in here.
It's a little bit different size,
so I'm going to go for each of these Vs that I see.
They're laying sideways.
See how that spaces out for me.
You see I'm skipping this thing right here
and I'm going to this next V. Sometimes this
will be too far apart,
sometimes it'll be too close together, so kind of do five of
them.
I try to pick something that looks the same
that I can work into so that it looks nice.
So you can see, I'm getting a good line.
So what you do is you kind of lay it out,
see if it's puckering like this when you're
working it, and then you have too many stitches,
too many single crochets.
If it's pulling apart like this,
and your blanket's real pulled apart, you have been
spaced too far apart.
But if you lay it flat,
and the stitches all kind of lay nice and flat, then you know you're
pretty good.
So I think that's a good spot for me to go.
It's all kind of trial and error
when you start working these side stitches.
See, I kind of think I put
that in the wrong spot.
I lost my rhythm.
See,
even I have
problems
with the
sides.
Take your time on the sides so that it looks nice,
because if you really,
if you want to do it really fast,
it'll end up looking kind of strange and
either stretched out or too many stitches.
Take your time on the sides. The ends are very simple.
But I'm going to go ahead
and end here.
I'm going to speed up just so we can get there,
so these are going to be a little copyrighted.
When we get over here to this corner, again,
we're going to do 3 stitches right into the corner.
So you can either go right here
or right in that very first loop, either way.
I'm going to go kind of like right in between.
There's no wrong
or right way to do this.
Well, the wrong way would be too many stitches or too less, but as
in where you place your hook is up to you what you like the look of.
If you wanted to go even like further,
like all the way down here and create a really fat edge, you could.
It's totally up to you.
This is that beginning foundation row,
so it's a little strange looking.
You can just go for this one loop that we actually didn't work into,
which was the front loop.
So we did not work into the front loop on the foundation chain,
so you can just go into that if you want.
It creates a little bit of a gap,
but it should lay flat once you're done.
It's kind of a big hole, but as it lays flat, fine.
So whatever you want.
So the same thing, you're just going to go all
the way around, join, and then single crochet.
So this will be a lot easier because you can
just single crochet in the ones you went into.
And then here at the corner, you're now,
because you have three stitches in the corner,
you're going to do three in that middle stitch.
I'm going to join a slip stitch
in the very first single crochet.
If you joined your round with a slip stitch and then did the chain one,
still join it at the first single crochet.
For the next round,
I'm going to chain one and then single crochet in that same stitch.
This is the first of the three
of the crocheting in the very first stitch.
Then I'm going to do three
in another turn and again,
I just single crochet my single
crochets.
This is a lot easier to do because you can see them.
On this side, I tried to kind of get close to the edge.
I'm going to show you the difference that I did here
kind of close to the edge so it kind of looks neat
On this side, I went straight
into the first waffle stitch that I came to, so I did one
in every single waffle stitch
so you can kind of see the difference and maybe what you might
like one better than the other,
and use that for your edging, so you can either try going
in the waffle stitch or go right along
the edge depending on what you like the look of.
So you're going to go around again
and do those three in each corner and join up, and
then your blanket's going to be complete.
You guys have any questions?
Please leave them below and thank you for watching