FREE Canyon Blanket Crochet Pattern! Cozy Waffle Stitch + Ombre Colors Tutorial - 5 Sizes Included

Okay so for the waffle weave blanket we're going to be using Red Heart Super Saver and I love their jumbo line. It has 744 yards in one skein which is great because it's way less ends to weave in. You can definitely use just their regular Super Saver that will be totally fine as well but you do need if you're trying to achieve the same measurements or making one of the sizes that I have in the pattern, you're going to need worsted weight yarn. And the reason that we can't switch weights is because we're going to be using two strands and we need to use two strands to get the ombre effect of when we're changing colors. So for each of the three colors that you choose, you are going to need And that's going to be enough for a king size blanket. I will give measurements and such for a smaller blanket or, you know, queen, full, twin, all of those different sizes so that you can make this how you want, but pick three colors. of your choosing and that's all you'll need for the actual yarn and then you're going to need two sizes of crochet hooks now you'll notice on this it says a 5.5 knitting needle and i think that's probably it's going to give me a 5.5 crochet hook we are going almost three times that size for the actual blanket. We're doing a 15 millimeter And it seems crazy big, and it's going to seem really crazy big the first couple of rows, but you're going to see what happens. That waffle weave can be a very tight stitch, and we want it to be open so that it's lofty and not just a stiff piece of fabric. So we're using a 15 millimeter hook for the body, and then we're going to use a 12 millimeter hook For the border. So make sure that you grab those before you start. Those are probably not on hand normally, so I'll link in the description to some good ones. I like these because they have that inline head that's kind of pointy to get through stitches. So I'm not a super fan of plastic, but your choices are limited when you get to bigger hooks like this. So I'll link to a few for you to choose from. So other than that, you'll just need some scissors and a yarn needle and the pattern, which you can get in the link below. Let's get started. But first, if you enjoy free patterns like this, be sure to hit the like, subscribe, and notification bell so that you never miss out when I am releasing all of these fun free patterns. Now back to this pattern. Okay, to get started, I have two strands of my CA yarn which is going to be my Erin yarn of the Red Heart. So I'm going to start with a slip knot and I'm going to make my tail long enough to weave in easily and I'm grabbing my 15 millimeter hook. So we are going to be making 163 chains. We want to make them just kind of normal size, not tight. We don't want to make them too loose. They're going to be loose as it is As you can see, they're going to be really quite big because of that 15 millimeter hook and the size of this yarn not quite matching, but once we get to about row three, you're gonna see what happens. Row one and row two are kind of wacky, but you'll have plenty of room to see what you're doing, which is nice, but you'll see how this goes. So just kind of make them thoughtfully Make sure you're counting, get to 163, and then we'll come back for row one. Okay, I've got 163 really big chains, and now I'm ready for row one, which is going to be very simple, but it's going to take a little bit of extra patience because of how big these stitches are. So we're just going to single crochet across 162 stitches. We're skipping that very first chain, and then we're going to work into just the back of all of the chains across so we want to make sure that we're getting between move all this out of the way make sure we're getting between the two loops on each side we don't want to catch just one pull up that loop and pull through the You'll have a nice big old hole here. Don't worry. With our next row, we're going to kind of close all that up with our waffle weave stitch. So just try to keep your chain from getting twisted. You know, if it starts turning, you're looking for that big pretzel there to get into. This is not super dire if you don't have 162 at the end of this row, but whatever you do have, make sure you are keeping track when we start working the next row. So once you finish this, count how many stitches you actually have. So if you're missing one, don't worry about it. It's not going to throw off your size that much. You'll notice that I kind of pull everything apart to find my next stitch, so I want to find those two nice big strands and loops I'm working through to find the next one. So I just keep on doing those single crochets, keeping my stitches nice and even by keeping my loops the same size as the shaft of my hook. So that's another tip here is keep your loop the size of your shaft, pull up and make sure you push That next loop to the size of your shaft, then when you pull through, keep those there and bring the hook through those loops and that will keep your stitches consistent. So you'll see even though I have these really large loops, All of my stitches are the same size so again don't come down here because your stitches are going to start getting small. Keep your loop on the same the shaft of your hook that's where that 15 millimeters is. Put your hook in and you'll notice I kind of hold on to it to keep it from sliding. Put your hook through, pull up the loop, push it to the shaft so that you have the same Same size loops. Yarn over, turn down so that you can get all through your loops at one time, and pull through. That'll help keep all of your stitches consistent. So again, go through, get them the same size, pull through. You're going to hopefully have 162 stitches at the end of this row. If not, don't worry. You don't need to rip out. You can work with what you have. This stitch pattern can be worked in multiples of one, which is great. So we're going to go through. Once you finish this row, count how many stitches you actually have, though, because our next row, it's going to be easy to lose one, just because of the way that these look. So be sure to count all of those as we're working, so that way we don't lose anything when we start working row two. So I will see you at the end of this row. Alright, I've got two chains left for my single crochets. This last one, sometimes it might get a little small when the very first chain that you make, just be careful when you're working into it. And now I'm done with row one. So we are going to begin the waffle weave now, but first I want to point out the loops that we're going to be working into. So we worked into the back loop when we were working across. So that leaves our front loop, which is this one that's wrapping around here in the front. I'm actually going to mark it with a stitch marker just to kind of keep it visible. So that's our front loop. And they kind of loop over each other as you go. Then, when we flip our stitch here, or our row, we also have the bottom bump of the chain. So, when we're looking, At our stitches we can look at how our single crochet is formed and these are like very big wide single crochets so you'll see that they're like little legs almost like little legs that a mushroom sits on top is kind of what I always say so you'll see these coming down these two legs And then the stitches on top. So these two coming down and a stitch on top. If these stitches were a little bit tighter, it would look more like that if we kind of squish them all together. Here's our legs. Here's our mushroom. So our legs point at our bottom bump. So you'll see the leg is pointing. Here's our bottom bump. It's leaning to the left. So as we come through, as we start working, you'll see our bottom bump is leaning to the left. So that's what we're going to work into and I have this first one marked because this one's always the hardest to see. This is why I said count how many stitches you have because you may miss this first one or you may miss the one at the very end so we'll take those really slow. So on top of working into this stitch way down here we're also going to be working into one of One of our loops. Of our stitch on top. So I always call this the V stitch. They're like V's woven in together. So we have our front loop, which are these two, and then we have our back loop, which are these two. We're going to be working into this front loop as well. So we are going to be working through both of those loops for each stitch. So I'm going to show you how we do that. So again, I kept the stitch marker here just to mark that front loop. This is our back loop here. This one's going to be the most difficult because you kind of have to get under there and kind of open it up to get through. So you're going to have to use your nails and your fingers to get behind those two loops. So here's my two loops. I'm getting behind them. Then I'm coming up through the same way and I'm getting through those two front loops. So I'm catching both of those. Then I'm just doing kind of a layover, more than a yarn over, and we're going to pull back through those four strands of yarn and then I'm going to pull it up. I want it sitting on top of my work. I don't want to do it I'll do it right here. And finish my stitch, it's going to make it very dense. I want to pull up my loops so they're sitting up on top of my work. Again, make your loops the same size as your shaft to keep your stitches consistent. Then we'll yarn over, and I always point my hook down at my row because that gets through the stitches the easiest. So that is one stitch and I think I forgot to chain one so we're going to do that again Again! for the people in the back. So first, chain one. I thought that looked a little weird. Again, here is our bottom bump. I have that stitch marker showing me my front. So we're going to catch the bottom bump and then catch the front loop of the row one. Then we're going to pull up Keep it the same size as our shaft and pull through. Now we're going to go to our next bottom bump, which we're looking for our legs. Here's our legs. This got a little bit smaller because we're pulling on it, so here's our legs. Here's our bottom bump. So we're going to come up through that bottom bump, both of those stitches. This row is going to be the most annoying, slowest row you have. It's going to get much faster after this, so don't worry. Then we're going to catch that next stitch, those first two, the front loops, pull up, bring our loops up to the top in the same size as our shaft, and pull through. So I like using this big of a hook because it's going to make really big stitches. It's going to make the work so much faster, but you'll see that we're still getting dense stitches. Like you're not seeing a bunch of holes anymore. Just working this row and wait till we work the next row, but this row alone has closed it up quite a bit. So here's our next stitch over here. Here's our legs. Here's our bottom bump. So we're going to go through. We can pull those out a little bit if we need to to get some room. And up, pull through, lift up, pull through. And you'll see that it almost looks like a little nub as you start making your stitches. It kind of It tightens it down because of working into it, so you'll be able to see it a little bit easier as you go. But take your time on this row. Don't try to rush it. Keep looking for that correct stitch so that everything works out. If you grab your front loop, then this bottom is going to start looking different, so you So you could see how it nicely comes along. If you grab that front loop instead of your bottom bump, that's going to start twisting. So really, really take your time with this first, second row. It's going to get way faster and easier after this, but trust me, you don't want to skip or be fast on this row. So we're just hitting that bottom bump and the front row, and we're actually, when we turn, we're going to be working into that back loop, so we're going to be using everything. So you want to make sure you're only catching that front loop as well because we're going to use the back loop when we come back around. So keep on going, working those stitches nice and consistently, and then we will meet up right at the end of this row to make sure you can see what that last stitch looks like so you don't Okay, I'm coming back in the middle of the row right now real quick because I want to point out how I was saying we're going to be working into the back loop of this row that we're working into right now. I want you to see how it looks as I'm working. So when I turn this around, the Back loop looks crazy. The back loop is all the way down here. It's all the way at the bottom now. So I want you to see how that looks. So here is my next stitch right here, and then here's the back loop of the stitch before, and here's the back loop of the stitch before that. So as I work into the bottom bump and go into this stitch, I am now pushing the back loop down. It's going down. Kind of to the middle and then that last one just went to the bottom. So my back loop that I'm going to be working into on the next row is all the way at the bottom here. So just keep that in mind so that when you're working this and we turn the row you'll understand when I say we're working into the back loop because when we look at this we're like what back loop? Like all we have is our stitch up here there is no back loop. Yes. We have a back loop. It's all the way at the bottom now. So this is what's going to create that really dense stitch because we're kind of working back and forth into these stitches and making this double layer fabric. So keep on going to the end of the row and I'll show you what that looks like when we get there. Okay, I've got three stitches left. Hopefully you have counted all of your stitches to make sure you have the right amount. I am going to mark... My last bottom bump so that I don't lose it because once I start getting close to it it's gonna want to kind of disappear a little so I'm gonna go and put that in there so that way it's easy to see. Now I'm gonna do this last two and you might notice that it's getting a little easier by the end of this row to spot those and work into them. Hopefully that's the case. Hopefully you're still not struggling but next row will be a lot easier. Here we go, and here's the last one. You can see, like, if I didn't have that in there, like, it might be a little difficult to see where that went because you have all of these loops over here, you know, all kinds of different things. So throw that stitch marker in there just to find that last one. It'll make your life easier, and then we're gonna make our last stitch. All right, and then you can kind of see where that bottom bump goes. Now we are ready for row three and this one and all of the rest of them are going to be pretty easy to work into now so you'll see how that goes. So remember I was showing you that this bottom row of stitches that is our back loop from our stitches of row two so we're going to do the same thing where we're working into loops down here and the front loop up here. So we're gonna do our chain one and not forget that. And then this is fairly easy to see. It's nice and wide. We're coming under there, coming through those two, and then we're coming through the first two loops. This one's, let me back out a little bit. Wanna make sure that you're paying attention to where that first stitch is. This is our chain one. So if you need to put that, Stitch marker in there just make it easier to see. So we're going to come up through there and then up through that first stitch, pull those back and up and work off. Don't think we need that anymore. So again, it's pulling up that loop so it's a little bit easier to see. We're going through those two and then through the front loop of this next stitch, pulling up and through. So we're going to keep working these in front loops. So back loop is that bottom loop or the bottom line and then the front loop is our top line. And you'll see that we're making this double thick waffle weave that's going to be so nice and warm in the winter or anytime it's cold. And then I'm going to show you, I'm going to get a couple more in here, and you'll see that you'll be able to work and do these a lot faster because you kind of just go straight up and through as you work these. You'll get really used to going through them, but I want to show you our back loop, what happens to it on the other side. So here's kind of our waffle weave. It's completely covered through with those holes, but it's nice and lofty, so it's not super tight because we're using this big hook. But when we flip. Our back loop is super visible now so next row we're going to be working into this line that's coming right here. So it's really easy to see, really easy to get into. So after this third row this one's going to be slightly faster than last row but not as fast as every row after because you're still kind of having to stop and make sure you're grabbing the right loops here. But when we're working back. It's going to be so simple to work into those so you will see. So we're going to work through this row three and then come back for row four real quick so that way we can show you how easy it is to work into those. Okay, I'm down to my last three stitches. And if you need to, you know, put a stitch marker in that last stitch just in case if you think you might lose it. This is much easier to see after that very first row though. You can see it's still nice and big. It's easy to spot. So I don't think that you'll need a stitch marker after this. And after row three, like everything's pretty easy to see. So here we are ready for our next Row of stitches. Okay, so now for row four, we can see that back loop very easily. It's like a line across the front of your work. So it's going to be very easy to work into. So we're going to chain one, if I can chain one. Chain one, and then we're going down. So there's a little loop here. This one we're ignoring. This is the one we're working into. Look for those stitches. Look for the little mushroom. Look for the two legs and the top. There's no, this is not an actual stitch. This is the one we're gonna be working into. And you'll see that they're stacked up. They're right on top of each other. So we're coming under that loop and through our first stitch I'm pulling up. And doing that first stitch and then we're going to do the same. This is going to be a lot easier to work into. You're going to be able to speed this along. I'm just kind of showing you like normal time how quickly you can get through these. You just kind of wiggle through and get through those four stitches and it kind of you can kind of squeeze them together. Just remember every time you make a stitch. Let me get some slack here. Every time you make a stitch, bring it to the top and put it on the shaft. That's the most important part. Bring it to the top, put it on the shaft, so that way all of your stitches are Consistent. But you'll notice now we're finally starting to get some height. You probably thought we were just like building on top of each other non-stop because this like this is three rows and it's just kind of a big jumble but now we're starting to get some height and we're getting some stitch definition for that waffle weave and you'll see that line and we'll at the very end that won't be there we'll do a different kind of stitch to get rid of that line so it's not visible But in the meantime... We are going to be working 60 rows in our CA color, so whatever your first color is that you chose, you're going to work 60 rows. We're going to come right at the end of that 60th row, so don't finish that last stitch. You're going to work up to that last stitch, and then we're going to come back to start changing colors to create the ombre effect. So this is going to be the same thing over and over. You're going to work across. The last stitch is very easy to see. You'll see that that's very easy to get into and to look at. They're right on top of each other. Same thing when you turn over. You're going to be working the same kind of way where you're working into that back loop. So it should be very easy to get through to row 60. So I will meet you back there. And we'll start changing colors. One last tip before you get going. Keep track of your rows. Mark them off because... This is not a normal stitch. You would not know unless you're really good at keeping track of how these look that this is four rows. So instead of trying to teach you how to read these, just mark your rows. So write down as you finish each row so that you know how many you've made. So that is my tip of the day. So go start working. Okay, here I am at the end of row 60. And this is where we're going to switch our colors on this very last stitch. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to insert into the very last stitch. Get all my loops here. Am I grabbing them? Yes. No, I am not. I'm missing a whole section here. Okay, I'm going to pull up my loops. And then here is where I'm going to change my color so that I can introduce the new color. And I'm only going to drop one of my strands, and this is what's going to give us that ombre effect. So drop one of your strands, keep it long enough to weave in. Cutting it, that's what I mean by drop. And then we're going to bring in the new color. So whatever your CB is, keep your tail long enough to weave in. And I like to just the tail to the right and grab my working yarn. I'm dropping my other tail and grabbing my working yarn and I'm running them together so that I can grab them easily and then I'm going to yarn over and pull both of those through to get that color change and then I'm ready to work for the next row. So for the ombre effect, for the color change with these two different colors, I am going to be working 30 rows of this. So we're going to do one CA, one CB for another 30 rows. I need to flip this completely over, but it's... cumbersome on the video so that I can go ahead and do 30 more rows and then we're going to switch to completely CB. So I'm sure you know how that's going to go, but we'll still meet up after the 30 rows just to go over it in case you need it. But in the meantime, just keep on working that waffle weave and we'll meet up. Right at the end of row 90, I guess it would be. Yeah, so row 90. I'll see ya. Okay, here I am at the end of row 90. I have all of the ombre change done, and now I'm ready to go full color B. So I'm doing my last stitch. Oh, and I just got this new Furls resin crochet hook. Isn't it so pretty? I will link it in the description if you want to check it out as well. I just got a whole bunch of different colors so I'll be showing those off pretty soon. So we're gonna go in, this last stitch is always the hardest because you gotta get that that little bar there and this and the bar is much smaller than normal so sometimes I'll do that first and then I'll bring the other two over so that's a little tip there. So we're gonna pull up the loop and then we're gonna drop off our Color A, or in my case, this cream color, the Aran. I'm going to cut that off with enough to weave it in, and then I'm going to bring in my other color and put those together. I'm going to put all my tails to the right, kind of keep them the same length. You could weave these two in together into this area if you wanted to, to save time since both colors are represented. So I'm going to hold both of those colors in one hand and then pull that through. Now I've made my color change. I'll still tighten it down a little bit and then we're going to go on and now we're going to do 60 more rows in our CB by itself. So that is the next Um, I'm just gonna say like chain of instructions. That's not the right word. Our next set of instructions is 60 more rows of this guy. And then that'll bring us to row 150, where we'll change from Two CBs to CC and CB, which you're probably going to guess how that's going to work, but we'll still come back and do it just so that way there is no questions and then we'll keep on going. So I will see you at the end of row 150. Okay, this blanket is getting huge, so I had to move to a different area so that I can Film the next change, which you should be pretty familiar with. By now, we're on row 151, we're on our last color change, so we're going to remove one of our CBs, and I want to back up, I went too far, we want to go to the last step of our last stitch of row 150, and then we're going to drop off one of our CBs. So that we can start our next ombre, get some slack here, that's the one I'm keeping, and then we are bringing in our CC, so whatever color you're using, we'll put the tail to the right as usual, grab those two together, and then finish that last stitch off. And now we are ready to move on and I still need to cut my end but I didn't bring scissors where I moved to so I'm gonna have to get some scissors. But we're gonna go ahead and work on rows 150, 1 through 180 with CB and CC and then I think you've got the picture you're gonna move on to CC so rows 181 through 239 you're gonna switch over to Two strands of CC or in my case brown and then we're going to come back for the very last row and so you can see how to get rid of that line. So keep going and I'll see you at row 240. Okay, here I am on the last stitch of row 239. We have one more row to go, row 240, but we're going to do something different because if we do the row the exact same way we've been doing it, we're going to get that line again on this side. We don't want that line showing up on our blanket when we're completing it, so we're going to do just a little bit different of a stitch. to be able to remove the line that could happen on this side. So to begin, we'll do our chain one, and then what we're going to do instead of working into just this front loop and this front loop, we're actually going to pick up both loops of this top single crochet. So by taking both loops, we don't leave that extra. back loop to create the line on the back so again we're going to pick up our front here we're going to pick up this front loop and the back loop all together try not to catch other loops besides that so you should have kind of six strands on your hook besides your loop that's already on the hook Pull up that loop and finish your single crochet and then you'll see that it's just looking normal and we don't have that extra line that we have on all of the other rows. So... It may take a little bit of getting used to to grabbing that back loop. You'll definitely notice if you missed one because you will see the line. So once you finish this row before you go onto the border, turn over your work and just make sure that you show no lines happening before we get to the border. But that's what you're going to do for row 240. I'm going to finish this row and weave in my ends first before I I start the border so that way. I'm just all clean and ready to go and then we'll come back and we'll do the border which we're gonna have a change in hook size and do something kind of special for when we get to those ombre sections so be sure to stick around for that so I will see you in just a little bit. Okay I've got two stitches left and then I am ready to start my border. So before you start your border just take a look real quick and make sure on the back side of this row that you don't have any of the lines showing up that you know what we talked about. So just double check you know so that way you don't end up having one and then feel bad about it. You can go fix it now before you start your border. So for the border we're actually going to switch hooks because this hook was made so that the actual stitches here would be more lofty and not like just super stiff but for the border we want not lofty stitches we want kind of tight stitches so we're going to switch to a 12 millimeter so this one's another one from Furls from their resin line they are so pretty i'll link to these in case you love them like i do So we're going to switch over to that 12 millimeter and we're going to keep the yarn on our hook because we're going to start our edging along this edge here. So the first thing we're going to do is we're going to work another stitch into this corner so we can make our turn. So that'll be our corner stitch. And then we're going to start working along the edge. So we're going to single crochet just evenly into the side stitches. So if you start seeing ruffling, you've got too many stitches. If it's starting to pull apart, you've got too few stitches. There's no great, you know, way to explain. You'll just find kind of what works. So for me, I'm working into... I'm going to make kind of this big hole here and I'm picking up quite a bit of the side. You can do like as little as you want, as much as you want, but I kind of have like a couple spots where there's holes. So I'm working into those for my border so you can kind of personalize yours how you like. I am only going to do one row of stitches around. You can do more than that. You might need some extra yarn if you do that though. So keep that in mind if you want to do a bigger border, but the border is very, you know, personal. I like, I just want a very simple border, but you can, you know, add scallops or whatever you like. But we're going to go till we hit our ombre section, and then I'm going to show you what we're going to do so that we still kind of keep that ombre effect. So just keep going until you get to that section. Okay, I'm coming back before we get to the ombre, just because I ended up putting too many stitches in the side and I wanted to show you what that looks like. So here I'm laying my blanket flat and making sure my rows look like they're, you know, not stretched out or anything. And you can see I have this poof up here and I have a little one over here too. So It's ruffling up because I have too many stitches there, so I need to go back and space those out a little bit more so that when I lay my blanket flat, The edge will lay flat too. I can get the edge to lay flat, but then my stitches are fanning out or my rows are fanning out because I've got too many stitches in there. So I'm going to frog back a little bit and space out these sections a little bit better so that it doesn't get that ruffle. So that's kind of what it's going to look like if you've got too many stitches in there. Okay, here I am kind of right at the end of... The change to the ombre, I spread my stitches out further so you can see everything's laying flat now. So what I want to do is kind of like how we did for the actual ombre, but we need to plan it well so that when you get into the ombre, your last stitch is where you're making that color change. So we're going to drop one of our browns. I'm going to just cut it right now. Or CC, whatever color you're using. And then we're going to bring in, and I wound what was left of my My, um... tan, I don't know, whatever color, so that it would be easier to work with. So we're going to join that in. Make sure you have a nice long tail for weaving in. We're going to join that in during this last stitch of just the brown. So now when we work this part of our ombre, We will have an ombre border as well so that way there's no like stark contrast when it's laying there of using just one of the colors all the way around. So that's what you're going to do. I think you get the picture when you get to the normal just tan you'll switch to Tan, you know, two strands of tan and get rid of your brown completely. It'll be a little bit, you know, a lot of switching back and forth for this border, but I think it makes it nicer. So I am going to complete my border and then we'll look at the finished blanket and finish everything off. So keep on going and I'll see you in a little bit. Okay here is the finished blanket with all of the ends woven in. Now you can really see the ombre effect of the color changes. This would be so pretty in any kind of color combination that you could match for your bedroom set. And I wanted to show you the ombre edging so you can see how that works out as you go along and change the colors on your edging so that way it's totally seamless. And I can't wait for winter to hit so that I can actually start using this again. So I hope you enjoyed this pattern. I would love to see what you make, so be sure to tag me. But I am Deja with Knit and Crochet Ever After and thank you for watching.