Making a Medieval Knight Shield

Shielded Dynasty Network
2 followers
58 Video Views·Oct 24, 2026
Hail friends!
Hope I can provide you with some insight for building your own shields, or just enjoyment in watching me make one!
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Video Summary
AI GeneratedA woodworker and medieval enthusiast demonstrates the process of crafting a 12th-century style heater shield. While designed primarily for decoration, the creator explains the structural techniques used to achieve the classic curved shape, the application of custom heraldry, and the final weathering process to give the piece an authentic, battle-worn appearance.
Hey, old friend, and well met. Welcome to my workshop.
As a woodworker and a medieval enthusiast,
I don't know why I've never built
a proper medieval shield before. In this video,
I will show making my first one.
The style of shield I'll be making is a 12th century
heater shield, which is what most people think
of as the classic knight shield. However, before
anyone says something in the comments,
I'm not trying to be a hundred percent historically
accurate. This particular shield will
be for mainly decorative purposes, but if a customer
requested one that is combat ready, I could make that as well.
Before starting on the actual shield,
I first have to make the frame for gluing the layers together,
which will give the shield
that curved surface for deflecting blows better.
I cut a cardboard template with a rounded edge
having an 18 inch radius trace that
onto several pieces of plywood
and cut them out on the bandsaw
then i sanded one down
to the traced line and used
it as a guide to match
the rest with the router
next i screwed those pieces at even intervals
to a longer board on either side which gives me a
ribbed frame that i can use
to give the shield its form lastly
i added some metal brackets
that I can use to keep
the shield pieces centered during the glue up.
Now I can start working on the actual shield.
I start by cutting some sheets
of 1/8 inch plywood into 2 by 3 foot pieces.
1/8 inch plywood can be a little harder to find,
but it is much easier to bend around
the shield form than 1 quarter inch.
I know that in medieval times they didn't have modern plywood,
but they did make their own
by gluing criss-crossing layers of boards together
to provide maximum strength over a wide flat surface.
Once all the sheets are cut out, I drill
a small hole at the top and bottom of each,
which I can bolt to the corner brackets
on the frame to keep the pieces perfectly aligned.
Next it is time to apply the glue,
which is just your standard PVA wood glue.
I cut tiny notches along the edge of this plastic putty knife
to make spreading the glue evenly easier.
Because this glue has a 25 minute dry time,
I only glue two layers together at a time
because it takes a couple minutes to spread the glue
and then clamp
the sheets together.
After bolting the plywood
to those central brackets,
I use ratchet straps to clamp the sheets down,
bending them over the frame, making sure that
each strap is
positioned
over one
of the ribs.
Once the glue
has dried,
I can remove
the straps
and see the result. I was very pleased that even with just two layers,
the plywood held a smooth
curve quite nicely.
However, two layers
is only a quarter
of an inch thick
and quite flimsy for
a shield. So now I'll glue on another.
You could glue together as many layers as you want, depending
on the thickness and weight of shield you're looking for.
For this particular shield, three
layers will
be sufficient for
the kind of shield
I want and to show
you how it's done.
Now that the
After the plywood is all glued up, I can cut out the shield's shape.
I start by tracing the outline
of this paper template that I prepared earlier.
I just used a bolt of cloth to weigh down the paper
and prevent it from slipping as
I
traced.
Then, I cut out the shape with a jigsaw.
Next,
I
clean
up
the
edge
on
the
belt
sander.
Now I need to drill holes for all the attachments
and parts I will be adding to the shield later.
This will include some padding under the arm straps,
and some trim going around the tire
rim of the shield.
Later you will see why
this requires drilling
holes through
the shield.
The back of the shield has this beautiful oak veneer,
and I wanted to keep some of that
wood grain, so rather
than covering it,
I decided to stain
and finish
that wood instead.
Once the finish is dry,
I can attach the padding that will go under the arm straps.
This will be some foam inside a canvas sleeve.
You could attach this using rivets, nails, or staples.
I decided to sew the canvas onto the wood.
Call me crazy,
but I simply like the look
and process of hand stitching.
Now you know why I drilled so many holes in the shield.
I also cut tiny grooves in between each hole,
so that the cord would sit flush with the
rest of the
shield's
front
surface.
After sewing most of the canvas, I stuff in a piece of upholstery foam.
Then
I sew
up the
opening.
Now I can work on the front face of the shield.
I coat the surface
in glue again,
and then cover it with some
natural cotton canvas,
smoothing it out to remove
any wrinkles or air bubbles.
Once the glue has dried,
I can trim off most
of the excess canvas.
Then I
fold
and
glue
it over
the
edge.
After waiting
for the glue to dry again,
I cut the canvas flush
with the back surface.
Next I'll install these D-ring anchors for attaching the arm straps.
I tried making the rivets out of some nails,
but I couldn't peen them well enough.
Probably they were not the right steel hardness.
So I just resorted
to using bolts and nuts.
Now I get to painting the shield.
I start with a base coat of white.
I've seen some shield makers that mix their own paint.
I'm not that particular, so I just use this can
of white primer slash paint I had on hand at the time.
After a
couple coats
of white,
I need to add
the stencils
for the
design I'll
be adding.
I divide the shield into quarters with masking tape.
Then I stick on the stencils,
which I printed on label paper and cut out beforehand.
I don't know how to read proper heraldry,
but the design for this shield was to serve
as a sort of banner for my shop.
I incorporated the elements of my shop logo,
which has a shield with red and white quadrants,
a handsaw to symbolize craftsmanship,
and a paintbrush to symbolize artistry.
In the top quadrants, I added a maple leaf for my country,
and a cross for my Christian
faith.
After covering all the parts
that will remain white,
I sprayed on two coats of red.
Once that has dried, I can peel off the stencils and tape,
and reveal what the shield will
look like.
I was very pleased with how clean the lines were,
and the bright contrast between the
red and white.
And
now
I
am
back
to
more
sewing.
I wanted to add a trim around the edge of the shield,
but I don't possess the tools
or skill to do that with metal.
So I'll attach a strip of black leather around it,
using thread and some glue at the corners.
I've seen some makers use rawhide for the rims
of their shields, and if it is being
made for combat, sometimes rope is glued inside
to help cushion the shield edge against blunt
weapons.
While I sit here and sew,
I wanted to share some thoughts about why I make shields, swords,
and things from fantasy worlds.
It ultimately comes down to the fact that there
is so much evil in the world, and we as humans
need hope.
And as G.K. Chesterton writes in his book,
Tremendous Trifles, fairy tales don't tell
children that dragons exist.
They already know that dragons exist.
Fairy tales tell children that dragons can be killed.
That is why I love stories like Lord of the Rings
or The Chronicles of Narnia, and why
it is my desire to make things that remind us of such stories,
the ones that inspire
nobility
and plant
seeds
of hope.
After sewing on the leather rim,
I next made the straps for carrying the shield.
I cut two strips of leather, trimmed them to length,
and then punched the stitching
holes.
Then I sewed them onto
the ring anchors I had already attached to the shield.
I realized that this would have been much easier
to do if I had made the straps before
bolting the anchors to the shield. That's part of learning.
Doing something, then seeing how it could
be done
better the
next time. Now
the shield
is finished.
Except that I
think it's
a little too
perfect. Too clean. So I'll add some weathering.
The first step I'll do is adding some dents on
the surface using this axe which is mostly blunt.
I was a little hesitant to do this and afraid of
gashing too
deeply, but you
have to trust
the process.
Next,
I'll do some dry
brushing
with
black
paint.
Just
dabbing
and
wiping
in random
spots.
Lastly,
I'll
use some dark brown stain
and just flick the brush bristles at the shield to give
some
light
spatters.
I hope
you
enjoyed
watching
this
project.
If you
did, you
know what to do.
Subscribe if you want to see what I build next. If I reach a
thousand subscribers from this video I'll
do a proper damage test on one of
my shields if you'd like to commission a shield of your own
or see what other
items I have for sale there's a link to my shop in the description
and thank you
very much for watching
