'Probably The BEST CLIFF In The Universe' | Modern Classics

The first day on this was so uncomfortable going bolt to bolt like I was absolutely shitting myself. I just came down and thought there's no way I'll ever be able to climb to the top of that thing. I think the thing of this route is that it's really like a lot of it is quite insecure and they're they're really big moves to small holds and your first time up it's yeah it feels that I don't think there was much chalk on it and had a bit of beta from Stu and Jake and but yeah just couldn't really conceive putting it together. As soon as you pull off the deck like the low section of Brumhall is it's really intense and quite insecure face climbing then you get a full reset rest a few more it's probably like grade 26 climbing then you do the roof which you quite you have to pull quite hard then cruisy up the flake full reset jug and then you got to switch back to boulder mode. It's real body positioning so you have to um sort of get this small crimp and then come on to that shift your body weight to be able to get the pocket because you really have to be able to get that accurately. A lot of people get it middle two drag it but I just get front two in it and wrap the thumb over crimp it and then pull quite hard to snatch the next little ear hold um yeah and then keep that heel come into the slot and then you just have to cut loose yeah if you fall off there it's quite nice you just come supermanning straight in but that's safe Some hard routes are just physical and actually pretty simple and if you're strong enough to do Bandoola you if you can't rock climb it's really hard probably the best cliff in the universe no it is amazing spent a lot of time down here and yeah there's just every route is a line like you stand underneath Bandoola and you go just want to climb that yeah it's great rock it's unique for the mountains in that the routes are quite a bit longer and a bit more involved than yeah just your standard facey boulders so you do a few intro moves to the crux which is this rad compression boulder high heel come into a small pocket uh skip a clip snatch come into a slot and then awesome cut loose uh breakout left to a pretty poor rest where you can't really even clip the quick draw I think I fell off two or three times after the crux took a massive winger because I was too pumped to clip the quick draw definitely not over you've got some really long moves on quite small edges extra pumpy to the top of the cliff felt like I just did it