WE TRIED TO SURF ASIA’S CRAZIEST REEF WAVES!

There is some crazy waves out here, not so bad, not so bad, easy out, not so easy in I'm assuming. The light is insane, oh my gosh. Holy ----. Went on two waves, hated on both, second one got properly pounded and hit the reef, and then the third wave in my head was huge. We are in a lull here, there was like one more step and like all this tension on the water from the rips pulling out was warping the lip of it. I think I had a good end moment, the drop was like kind of crazy so we're in between sets it's been like kind of like a 30 minute wait, waiting for one of those nugs we saw. I believe we can get a clean entry and a clean exit. Broke my dad's 6'4". Defeated. Long swim in with half aboard. I'm making headway. There's some energy out there. I've been wounded by the reef, but just a couple scratches. Hopefully the sun comes out and we get some offshores to clean it up out there. Ivan and Russo are still out there so I'm going to join them and give it another try. Made it back on the reef. These guys are freaking out of control. I like surfing where it's impossible to get in and almost impossible to get out. Russo has made it across the reef, so I think we're going to go get some coffee and lunch. We gave it a pretty good effort, the lulls are long and there was some unbelievable waves. I saw one 10 foot easy and so thick and round. Full chopes westbowl looking wave. I just happened to catch that one on my head because I fell on the first one and got absolutely annihilated. Kind of a rough session for me. I got really worked multiple times and then broke my 6'4". I think on my second one I hit the bottom pretty hard and got some mellow reef cuts. Luckily I hit on my butt and back and I have the impact suit on and the cordura trunks over it. So I got kind of protected there, but the elbow got a little scraped up. Ivan got a nug right when I got back out. Got a really cool lineup with Russo, so that was epic. Just two hairless bros. Ivan looking like the predator with the shoulder done, rigged up, GoPro'd out, Russo made it in. I got a little ahead of myself and caused a bunch of wipeouts, so good reminder. Gotta be confident and committed, but overconfidence will cook you. You have to go over the falls to get to them. Easy to get out, hard to get in. You know when they're trying to land a helicopter on a little boat? Circle back! Wait, Ivan. We started off really good. We had the right fall to go out. We were in the right spot. We weren't as hit those waves right when we got out. Bro, Ivan was very motivated. What are you talking about? Nathan went on two crazy ones. Broke his board on a third one. I was too motivated, overconfident. But then I left you out there. You had a long good think and then you got a sick one. Yeah, it's really just being confident. Mr. Cool, that's the end until round two. We are 1.64 less and some skin less. Definitely didn't get anything near what was coming in. I feel like I say that every time we surf a new slab. Figuring out a wave like that, I definitely should have been a little more patient and positioned better. But I was so excited in the beginning. I was just going on everything. First one I thought I was too deep but I probably could have made it if I had just pumped but I bailed out. Next one I'm going to try and I committed and nosedove. Then I caught all of 10 or 12 feet straight on the head. My feet were on the reef and I was like, Oh my gosh, I'm in a new area. I don't know how the water moves on this inside. I had a 10 foot chope slab landing on my head. Luckily I got under the secondary explosion and just had it take me into the inside of the reef. So I'm fine. Went back out. Too deep, foam ball. Broke my sixth board. This wave, one. Nathan, zero. From the outside. I land thump the bottom on my butt and it's just barely rough to the material. And I landed hard. Fedora. They're growing out of Nate's head right now. The rampage. You got to maintain speed. I was getting pulled under kind of. It was spooky. Oh my gosh, look at this. Blue wall. Oh my gosh. Holy ----. That was sick. Wow. That was insane. That was like sick. Yeah. Bro, I was freaking out. I was freaking out. I was like, dude. What? Everything was butter. The board was perfect size. I thought it was going to be so overgun. It was so big. I just glided in. Water out of place. Set up and just went. Oh my god. That made my whole trip. That was insane. You're going to trip on the clip. I can't wait to see. Russo's angle. I put the GoPro in my pocket. It's crazy. The vision. It was turquoise water. The second one I was too deep on. I gave the two big pumps for uncontrolled cartwheels underwater and I was like, ****, the bottom's close. I know it. Just underwater sense I put my hand out like this planted my head on the bottom on my hand and my hand blocked the reef. That scared the ---- out of me. I kept being too far on the shoulder because I didn't want to be too deep after that. If I hit my head right there, I'd be fucked. Russo's having anxiety attacks, PTSD from one of our other island trips in a different island chain. Look at this guy. This is the craziest rig you've ever seen. You got one. It feels like somebody ******* hit my leg with a sledgehammer. Better to my head than to my head. I rolled. I went under and I went like this. I rolled. And then it spun me and it just gave me a little flintstone on my hand. A gnarly one. Saved the camera and all. Russo took like a twelve footer to the head and got cooked. We're going to take him back to the house. Every wave anyone's fallen out there, they hit the reef. Both times he got caught, he was on the bottom. Blue turquoise barrel. Ivan had a few. Still waiting on a bomb. There's a bird pile right outside of us. Just me and Ivan out. Russo on the inside. Yeah, big bird pile. Pretty epic. Just two bros. Surfing. Alone. Enjoying it. It is beautiful out here. Wow. The water is so blue. It's pretty worth it. I got a nice view behind us. I just have to wait. And then just an afternoon. What a day.