I have to quit climbing #sport #travel #running

sport and travel
205 followers
Nov 9, 2026
Use code ‘MAGNUS’ for 15% off at Rúngne ▶︎ https://rungne.info/magnus
I Broke My Finger and I don't know if I'll ever climb the same way again.. - Magnus Midtbø
Shot and edited by Markus Skaane / skaane
Music and Sound Effects: http://share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn
AI Generated·May contain errors
Video Summary
AI GeneratedAfter 25 years of injury-free climbing, the speaker suffered a broken thumb during a dumbbell challenge in the U.S. The injury has severely impacted his daily life and climbing ability, with recovery potentially taking up to a year. He is currently navigating the healing process, attempting one-handed training, and adjusting his mindset to prioritize long-term health over immediate progress.
So I don't know how many times I've said that I've never been injured
throughout like 25 years of climbing. I've never been injured. In the last video on the
second channel I feel like I kind of jinxed it a little bit. If you take just a little risk
many enough times eventually the statistics are going to catch up to you and you're gonna
end up in an accident or even worse. I just feel like this is gonna be like a
it's gonna come out after some tragic accident. So it finally happened. I broke
my thumb and the doctors say that it could take up to a year before I can climb
again and yeah it sucks and yeah it just really sucks. Yeah here we are my first injury
and it could have been a lot worse. That's why I tell myself like even though it is
the most important finger on your hand just to kind of function in normal everyday life
and I've realized that already like it's a struggle doing normal things not having your
thumb it feels like my left hand is completely useless. Getting dressed, making myself a cup
of coffee, everything food related is a complete struggle and I feel so helpless. I need to ask
my girlfriend for help doing a lot of like easy tasks that I normally of course would do myself.
I also tried to do like my first climbing session. I went to the gym and just kind of to figure out
what I can do. This is gonna be the first training session since my injury. It's been 10 days now
without any training. I have to start training at some point. I can still train my right arm so
I'll just do as much as I can. I'm probably gonna feel terrible though because I haven't
worked out in like two weeks. It's weird that the thumb is so important for just hanging.
Like it really hurts. I think the maximum pressure I can put on this is probably like 10-15 kilos maybe.
This is not that much fun. I mean compared to climbing it feels weird. I haven't climbed in two
weeks so everything feels kind of stiff and I should be careful not to injure my right arm too
but it sucks that I'm not able to climb. When I look around at all these boulders
that's pretty much what I've been doing the last few years is only climb but now I'm not able to
do that. Now I have to do all these boring exercises instead. Freaking sucks. Okay so I think I should
probably explain how the accident happened. So I was in the U.S. one of the first days of filming.
So I used to be a big fan of Entourage. Yes dude I just watched that this year. Okay and it's based
on him. Who do you think, what character do you think you are? And I did this challenge so it was
a dumbbell like this. Just way bigger, way bigger than this even. It was 90 pounds. I was told that
I should be very careful. So I had my thumb like here and then I turned it like that and then it
crushed my thumb and the thumb was just bent kind of the wrong way. I panicked and with having a lot
of adrenaline I kind of put the thumb in place and I was I asked if someone could drive me to
the hospital. All right Magnus what just happened? I just broke my thumb. I crushed it with a
with a dumbbell. Dumbbell. Flipped it and it landed on my thumb and it was like bent
completely the wrong way. So now he's going to the hospital. Going to the hospital. Yeah. I just want
to say it wasn't my video. It was someone else's. I don't care whose video it was. Yeah. I don't
blame anyone but myself. It happens man. I mean I thought it was broken but I was like hoping that
it might have been just dislocated even though I could hear the snap of the finger. Like I heard
it break but after scanning my thumb they said that it's completely broken like clean off and
I actually did a pretty good job of putting the thumb back in place. I was also a little bit
afraid like going to the hospital in the U.S. I've heard so many horror stories of people getting
charged a lot. Luckily though I had travel insurance that probably saved me a few thousand
dollars. So when I finally got home I decided to go to a Norwegian hospital to get it checked again
and see if they had sort of the same conclusion and I was super nervous to hear what the doctors
had to say. I still had no idea if I needed surgery and if I needed surgery it could take
even longer before I could climb again.
One year. So after he said that my mind just went silent.
I just completely zoned out and I didn't hear anything else he talked about. All I could think
about was all the videos we had planned. I was planning to get back in shape competing again
possibly. All that just went down the drain when I heard one year.
So
luckily though he mentioned that possibly I could climb after only three months but I would have
to be super careful and definitely cannot like full pinch or anything. So at least that was nice
to hear that I don't have to wait complete like I don't have to wait one year to even get on the
wall but it's probably going to take a full year before I can pinch 100% on my left arm or left hand
again. So the first cast I got on my hand after coming back from the U.S. was huge. It covered my
wrist. I couldn't use any of my fingers so I kindly asked if I could get a smaller cast for the
remaining three weeks and luckily they said yes. It's hard to even describe how much better this
feels. The small little cast compared to the big one that was like super itchy. I also got a new
appointment in three weeks from now. September 17th. So that's the day before my birthday.
My birthday is 18th so I might be able to take the cast off completely in three weeks from now
the day before my birthday. I'm going to do what I can to stay fit and at the same time be super
careful. Yeah if I was a little bit younger and dumber I think I would just kind of ignore the
advice a little bit and try to climb as much as I could but it makes no sense. Now I just want to
make sure that in a few months from now I'm going to be completely normal. My thumb is healed and I
can do whatever I want basically. The interesting thing about something like when you break a bone
is that it doesn't really heal in the first like 10 days or at least that's what Chachi Petit said.
It first like prepares to heal so the first 10 days the bone is still not attached it's not
any stronger than it has been which is a little bit demotivating because I thought like okay
every day now it gets stronger and better and it's it is healing but that's not really true
or at least according to Chachi Petit and I think it's also gonna make me appreciate
like being healthy and strong again when this eventually heals. When I start climbing again
I'm probably gonna have like a like a new motivation. In many ways too I think that
maybe it's good to give my body a break from climbing. I am though I am gonna climb with one
hand. I'm doing that today actually. I gotta be careful though not to get too excited to do
something stupid. Still early in the healing process so doing something stupid now would be
very stupid. Not even sure how I'm gonna put on my shoes. The thing is now I am able to use my
left arm a little bit. I wonder if there's a size difference between my arms. I usually don't flex
on camera but now to see so this is two and a half weeks ago. The accident is two and a half
weeks ago. See if there's any difference between my right and left arm. I don't know. Now there's
someone looking. It looks weird to flex like this. It actually hurts my thumb a little bit
too when I'm flexing. It's almost like using all the muscles but I don't know if you see any
difference between the left and the right arm. Hopefully not. I was looking at this it might be
way too hard to start on but it is a slab so hopefully maybe not. Okay not definitely not the
intended way but I do kind of want to use my left arm even if it's just like five kilos pulling a
little bit in with the left arm but I just have to remind myself it's not worth it. It's definitely
not worth getting injured again. I'm definitely not a patient person though. Everyone who knows
me can testify to that. Okay here's another one. I gotta be careful. I feel like I'm already too
excited about this. Something like that I think. To me the top doesn't look so bad so if I can only
do that first move. I didn't even think of that. Down climbing even is pretty tough. Also a fun
fact about the injury is that the nail, the nail on the thumb, on my injured thumb, has not grown
at all. I've had to cut the other nails two times and I haven't had to cut the nail of the injured
finger even once. I used Chachi Bouti and asked why that was and it said that it's normal when
you break something that it takes a while for the nail to start growing again. It said something
about it being traumatized or something which sounds dramatic but I guess it is
when I can actually match. It's a weird way of thinking. I have to think in a completely
different way. Solving a problem or route is so natural with two arms and now it's kind of like
I don't know my brain is not working. That is a little bit too hard. If I just do that move though
I can definitely do it. I'll try it one more time. Not really sure what to do from here so if you guys
have any tips or tricks on how this possibly could heal any faster if there's any like alternative
medicine anything out there that could help me please let me know and also please help me come
up with video ideas I can still do with one hand. Climbing related or not this channel is not only
about climbing anymore which makes it a little bit easier now that I'm injured. Thank you for
liking and subscribing and all that and I will do my best to get back as quickly as I can.
Thank you for watching and I will see you in the next one.
