Day In The Life Of Route Setting World Champion

where we explore the south coast and get a little bit more behind the scenes of my life. In this series we're going to see a little bit of sport climbing, we're going to see a little bit of route setting, some homebody stuff and a lot of bouldering as well. In this episode we'll be heading to Surrey Sports Park which is my local wall, it's where I started climbing and I'll be doing a reset of the boulder wall. You'll be following me from the morning when I wake up all the way through the day as I set some cool blocks and also getting a little bit of behind the scenes stuff of how I set personally and the mindset of a route setter when they're doing it. What's that for? Right well, it's very early in the morning, it's freezing cold and we're going off to do some setting at Surrey Summit at Surrey Sports Park today. So yeah, should be a good day hopefully. Primo, here we are. Smash that park. I'll be serious here myself. Hello, I've been working here on and off for like two years now and now I just got the full-time job so now I work here full-time. It's lovely, lots of fun. I'm still acclimatising to a full-time job but you know, you can have a full-time job, it's a pretty good one to have I think. Owen has got one. This is where I first ever climbed many, many five years ago. It was when I came to some kids clubs here and then I sort of never left because it's five minutes from my house basically so it's really, really easy to get to. Which is nice. I just kept on coming back and then I was getting there, looking to get a full-time job. I was like, it seems like a pretty good place to do it. It's all kids. Up and down, up and down. There you go, that's that. That one in the wall I think. I mean we've got a solid community here so everyone sort of knows everyone. So I think yeah, everyone sort of knows me. Yeah, there's always people around who are intrigued by what I have done I guess. We like to hear it sounds quite good. World champion. So the start, this is a fun one, the start. The start is... There we go. Match up to one. Was that too, that might be too good. Can't be nice to these people. That's the one. Perfect. Remove the ladder. That's pretty good. Yeah, we need the big ladder for this. It's too tall. I don't want to lower it because it's nightmare. There we go. I like creative process, like seeing something and then like you have an idea and then you stick it on the wall and it looks good. That's what it's about. I like something that's like just ratty pulling basically. So yeah, like outdoor boulders I've climbed and like what I see online. And then just from being at the wall a lot like every now and again you just like spot like, I've never seen that one before, that could work. And you've got the idea going. And I come to a certain day and I normally have like one or two like fully formulated ideas of like routes I really want to try. Is it going to fit? Oh, it does fit. I can't climb everything I set, I just sort of go off looks and my own experience of what it's meant to look like. And then we've got strong people so they come and test it for me. It's the compromise. Sometimes I can do most, I can do like most of them up like V5. But then like the really hard ones I set, I need someone else to test them because like they tend to be too crimpy or some other reason. That requires someone with more limbs to test it for me. But yeah, it's not the end of the world. We've got to sweep all the mats, make sure there's no screws anywhere. Because we're not about that spike life. I don't know. Look at me tidying up. I'm such a good person doing all the tidying up. Look at me tidying away. Got to warm up kids, otherwise you'll get hurt. If you don't warm up, you'll lose an arm. That's how it works. But I've warmed this one up extra vigorously now. At least the easy ones are good. I can set easy stuff, let's see if the hard stuff still stands up. Where's the feet for this one, Jasper? What is it with you and these wide moves over here? Terrifying. It's like the white one before. It's a bit more fierce than I was expecting straight away. Oh no, it's never adjusted. Yeah, that works. Yeah. Cake. I do like cake. Oh, it's quite good. It's vegan and everything, so... I should have some of that. I feel guilty. You can jump it as well. It's quite hard. I might need some adjustment. I thought you wanted that before you... I did a similar move. There you go. It's great, it's great. He's going to fall off the last one, I bet. There we go. All the triddling in the world. Now it's done. I think they're quite nice. The ideas I had came out all right, so that's good. Yeah, I think it's all good, really. It's all good in the hood, but we're not in a hood. It's all good in the boas of Surrey. Absolutely nothing to see here. Oh, gosh. My ritual, I go home and I have a cup of tea because tea is the best. Tea is the best. And then I chill. I just chill because I'm tired. It's a fair bit of physical work and enjoy not putting holes above my head anymore because they're heavy. So I was really happy with how it went. I set some cool blocks, did a little testing. We had a good crew going, making sure the blocks were working. So I'm really happy with that. Yeah, I'll see you next time. I'm off now. Bye-bye. In the next episode, we'll be taking you into my crib MTV style and we'll be exploring my home training setup.