Burgundy has become expensive—but that doesn’t mean every worthwhile bottle requires Grand Cru or Premier Cru money.
In this video, I explore En La Rue de Vergy, a small Morey-Saint-Denis Villages vineyard that, to my palate, regularly performs above its classification.
Situated high above Grand Cru Clos de Tart, En La Rue de Vergy benefits from a steep southeast-facing slope, shallow limestone and marl soils, and a cooler elevation that helps preserve freshness as Burgundy’s climate becomes warmer.
Today, I compare two different expressions of this overlooked vineyard: Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy — Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy — Domaine Gilbert & Christine Felettig
Both wines come from the same 4.81-hectare vineyard, yet the producers interpret the terroir very differently.
Bruno Clair offers the more classical style: bright red fruit, pronounced minerality, vibrant acidity and the structure to reward extended cellaring.
Felettig produces a richer and more immediately approachable expression, with darker fruit, polished tannins and a generous texture.
In this video, I discuss: Why En La Rue de Vergy is one of Burgundy’s most overlooked vineyards Why this Morey-Saint-Denis Villages wine can compete with some Premier Crus How altitude, limestone and marl shape the vineyard’s style How climate change may be benefiting higher Burgundy vineyards Domaine Bruno Clair vs Gilbert & Christine Felettig Why En La Rue de Vergy remains compelling value at approximately US$65–110
For me, value in Burgundy does not mean buying the cheapest bottle. It means finding vineyards and producers where the quality in the glass exceeds the reputation—and sometimes the classification—on the label.
That is exactly why En La Rue de Vergy continues to earn a place in my cellar.
Chapters: 00:00 The Burgundy Villages Wine That Overdelivers 02:21 En La Rue de Vergy Explained 03:24 Domaine Gilbert & Christine Felettig 04:16 Felettig Tasting Notes and Prices 05:06 Domaine Bruno Clair 05:54 Bruno Clair Tasting Notes and Prices 06:44 Which Bottle Should You Buy? 07:36 Final Thoughts
Wines Featured Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy — Domaine Gilbert & Christine Felettig Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy — Domaine Bruno Clair
The speaker explores the value of the Haut-la-Rue de Vergy vineyard in Morey-Saint-Denis, arguing that it offers quality comparable to Premier Crus at a fraction of the cost. By comparing two distinct producers, the video highlights how this specific terroir provides an exceptional buying opportunity for Burgundy enthusiasts seeking quality over famous labels.
Burgundy has become expensive. There is no point pretending otherwise.
Over the past decade, prices have climbed so dramatically
that many wine lovers have simply stopped buying burgundy altogether.
I didn't. I just stopped chasing famous labels. Instead, I started looking for something else.
Vineyards that consistently drink above their classification.
Places where the quality in the glass is greater than the name on the label.
Because for me, value has never meant buying the cheapest wine.
Value means buying the most quality for your money.
After more than 30 years of exploring burgundy,
vineyard by vineyard, producer by producer, and burning my own cellar,
one site has quietly become one of my favorite purchases.
On La Rue de Vergy, a small village vineyard in Moray, Saint-Denis.
On paper, it's only a village appellation.
In the glass, I genuinely believe it competes with quite a few Pommy Cruz.
And somehow, despite everything that's happened to burgundy prices,
you can still find excellent bottles for around 65 to 95 US dollars.
For a Côte-de-Nuit vineyard of this quality, that's exceptional value.
Today, I'm comparing two of my favorite producers from this remarkable site.
The men Bruno Clair and the men Gilbert and Christine Felti.
Both have been in my cellar for years.
Both express the same vineyard.
Yet, they couldn't be more different.
In this video, I will explain why On La Rue de Vergy
has become one of my favorite buying opportunities in burgundy.
Compare these two producers side by side and ultimately tell you which I would recommend
depending on the style of burgundy you enjoy.
And before we begin, while you are still discovering your preferences,
buy three or six bottles rather than a full case of 12.
A cellar should evolve alongside your taste.
Before we get into the wines, let's spend a minute on the vineyard itself.
Because this is where the magic happens.
On La Rue de Vergy sits high above the Grand Cru Clos de Tarre
on a steep southeast-facing slope.
It's a tiny vineyard of just 4.81 hectares.
The soils are shallow and incredibly rocky,
mostly limestone and marl with very little organic matter.
Poor soils force the vines to dig deep into the bedrock,
producing wines with remarkable mineral definition.
For decades, this altitude was considered a disadvantage
because the vineyard often struggled to ripen fully.
Ironically, climate change has transformed that weakness into one of its greatest strengths.
Today, the cooler elevation helps preserve freshness and acidity,
while many lower vineyards become increasingly rich.
The result is a style that's bright, precise,
mineral, and far more serious than most people expect from a village wine.
That's exactly why I keep coming back.
Domaine Gilbert & Christine Feltic
Henri Feltic expanded the family estate for just 2 hectares in the 1960s to 9 hectares
before passing it to his children, Gilbert and Christine.
Today, the domain covers around 13 hectares,
from Givray-Chambertin to Beaune,
including several outstanding Premiers Crus and Grands Crus & Chausseaux.
Since moving towards estate bottling around 2010,
and with Gilbert's daughter Pauline joining the domain in 2022,
quality has continued to improve.
Their holding in On-la-Rue de Vergy is tiny,
just 0.2 hectares,
which makes these bottles relatively scarce,
despite remaining surprisingly affordable.
In my opinion, this remains one of Burgundy's most underrated producers.
On the nose, I find black cherry, blackberry,
plum, baking spice, cocoa, and subtle earthy notes.
The palate is generous and beautifully textured.
Dark fruit sits at the center,
supported by polished tannins and impressive concentration.
Despite the vineyard's mineral backbone,
Feltic gives the wine a softness and generosity
that makes it remarkably approachable from a young age.
It's elegant, refined, and wonderfully easy to enjoy.
The 2019 and 2020 vintages sell for around 65 US dollars.
The 2022 is around 95 dollars,
while the 2023 has already settled back to around 70 dollars,
making it particularly attractive.
Domain Bruno Claire
Bruno Claire founded his domain in 1979
after rebuilding the family's vineyard holdings from scratch.
Over the following decades,
he gradually expanded across the Côte d'Annui,
creating what has become one of Burgundy's benchmark domains.
Today, the estate spans around 27 hectares across eight villages
and is increasingly run alongside the next generation.
Bruno Claire has built his reputation on precision.
His wines are transparent expressions of terroir.
His holding in Haut-la-Rue de Vergy
covers around 1.15 hectares,
planted equally to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,
making him one of the vineyard's largest owners.
On the nose, I find bright cherry,
raspberry,
fresh stone,
gentle spice,
and delicate floral aromas.
The palate is tighter than the fatigue.
Silky tannins frame vibrant red fruit,
while bright acidity and a pronounced mineral core
carry the wine through a remarkably long finish.
Around five years of age,
the wine begins to reveal its finesse.
Another five to ten years brings even greater complexity.
The 2020 vintage currently represents particularly good buying
at around 80 US dollars.
The 2019 sits around 95 US dollars,
while the more recent 2022 and 2023 vintages
are closer to 110 dollars.
The verdict
If someone asked me which bottle to buy,
my first question wouldn't be
which producer is better.
It would be
when do you want to drink it?
Because that's really the difference.
Both producers capture everything that makes
On La Rue de Vergy such a remarkable vineyard.
They simply tell the story in different ways.
Bruno Flair is the more classical interpretation.
Bright red fruit,
crunchy acidity,
minerality,
structure.
This is the bottle I would buy
if I planned to leave it in a cellar.
For another decade,
Fenty takes a more generous approach.
Darker fruit,
softer tannins,
more texture,
more immediate pleasure.
If I wanted to open a bottle over the next few years,
this would probably be my choice.
Personally, I don't think there is a wrong answer.
One offers structure and patience,
the other offers texture and charm.
What impresses me most is that both
come from a village vineyard
that repeatedly performs at the level
I would happily compare with many promicreuse.
That's why On La Rue de Vergy
has become one of my favorite buying opportunities
in Burgundy.
And at today's prices,
I would happily add either of these bottles
to my cellar again.
There are other great producers of On La Rue de Vergy
and I have several other producers waiting in the cellar.
I would love to explore them in future episodes.
If you could only choose one,
which style appeals to you more,
the classical precision of Mouner Flair
or the generous elegance of Feltid?
Let me know in the comment section below.
And I would also love to hear
if there is another overlooked Burgundy vineyard
you would like me to explore in a future episode.
You will find more of my cellar insights
and tasting notes on Instagram.
Massive thanks for watching today
and I will see you in the next one.
